Posted: 9/13/2016 10:51:27 PM EDT
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I just picked up a Remington Model 7 KS from my FFL when I was picking up my new AR lower. It was used, early 1990s rifle, and pretty much the same way it was when it left Remington. Kevlar stock, with the camo finish. Was a hunting rifle, with a Leupold 2-7x VARI-X IIc and Uncle Mike’s sling. Scope was made in 1993 (has adjustment caps with screws, and in Leupold rings/base).
I bought the rifle mainly because of the deal I got on it, but also so I can touch into a different aspect of rifle shooting. In regards to full powered rifles, I have a National Match M1A (iron sights), USMC sniper reproduction M1903, M1 Garand, Yugo M48A, Mosin Nagant PU sniper, and Ishapore 2A1. None of those, with the exception of the M1A, are what I call a precision rifle. I'm not looking to shoot the nuts off a fly at 1,000 yards... but would like to connect within 300. If I want to proceed into it further, I'd likely get another rifle/optic combo. But for what I’m looking for right now is a beginner rifle to learn the ropes. I called up Leupold, as I wanted to see if I could put dials on the two adjustments. The adjustments do not click, so I cannot do a windage dial. The elevation can have a dial added, but it must go back to Leupold for it. Costs $150 to do it. Wouldn’t want to do a Custom Dial, as I rather do the adjustments the right way. Looking at it now, I kind of rather not invest in it without having the windage adjustment. Kind of only half of the solution, in my eyes. I'm sure I could zero the gun at 200, then just hold the differences... but what fun is that? No adjustments to experiment with and too much guessing for my liking. Just wanted to see what people suggest for my situation. Not going to buy a $1,000 scope for this rifle, but willing to put in a little bit (won't be a right now decision, see below). If the tube for my scope is similar to the newer models in the same setup (1”, I believe), I might just order a new Leupold how I’d want the scope to be set, and try to sell this one. Kind of siding with Leupold, being the scope I have is 23 years old… and the glass looks amazing! Range-wise, I live in New Jersey… maximum ranges in my area are 300 yards. If I want to shoot further, would have to go out of state (can do, but not that much). 7x works for my uses, but if I did get a new scope, I’d probably go a little higher magnification. I’m kind of going to put this project on the back burner for now, as I’m building that AR that I picked up the same day. It is actually going to be a scoped rifle as well, but my main reason for that build is an FDE rifle. Don’t have one, so why not? Rifle length 18” barrel, with a 1.5-6x scope. Most parts are purchased, just waiting on a few more shipments to come in (UPS might have lost a $400+ MidwayUSA order, and I guess Aero is still building my upper). I also have an Ithaca 37 sitting at Robar for NP3, so going to recoup some money over the next month.  I don’t want to come off as I’m not going to take info from this thread seriously. I want to make a very good choice, which is why I’m asking about this so early.
Thanks for taking a look. |
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I wouldn't mess with fixing up the scope. If it doesn't have a reticle that you can use to hold off for windage it's going to be difficult to reliably hold off correctly. But if you only shoot out to 300 yards, then I'd zero it at 200 and see where to hold at 50, 100, and 300 and shoot it.
Shoot that until you get better and what you really want will sort itself out over the next few thousand dollars. 
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The scope is a very good hunting scope to set for zero and leave alone. I have a couple of Leupold scopes from that era on hunting rifles and see no reason to change them. They are not intended to track accurately with the turret dials and probably will not. But the glass is good, the construction is solid and they hold zero even on a hard recoiling rifle.
My suggestion is to leave it alone and either save it for hunting or sell it on EE. For hunting or general shooting, most hunting caliber rifles have their scopes set for a "point blank" zero. Depending on the cartridge (you did not specify, but something that will chamber in a short action - .243, .260, .308, etc.) that means about 2.5"- 3" high at 100 yards. That will produce hits in a 6" circle or so all the way out to 300 yards without need to mess with elevation turret or hold over with the reticle. A better choice to learn long range shooting, holdovers and wind hold offs would be the $300 (when on sale often) Weaver Grand Slam Tactical 3-10x40. It is a MidwayUSA exclusive. See pic of mine below. It has MRAD .1mil per click, turrets that are accurate, repeatable and track well, combined with a matching mil dot reticle. Japanese glass and construction. It is optically equal to or superior to the Leupold you have and has the precise turrets and ranging reticle you need to shoot at longer distances. I bought one just to learn the MRAD system (which is easy and instinctive). All my other scopes were MOA at that time. I put it on a 1,000 yard capable Sako bolt gun. It is so good it is still there. Incredible performance at the $300 level. It is comparable to scopes costing at least 50% more. Frankly, I don't think there is a better $300 tactical scope on the planet. 
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Yea, the more I think about it, I rather put $150 towards a scope I can adjust both elevation and windage than make it easily adjustable for just elevation.
Quoted:
If it doesn't have a reticle that you can use to hold off for windage it's going to be difficult to reliably hold off correctly. But if you only shoot out to 300 yards, then I'd zero it at 200 and see where to hold at 50, 100, and 300 and shoot it. Quoted:
If it doesn't have a reticle that you can use to hold off for windage it's going to be difficult to reliably hold off correctly. But if you only shoot out to 300 yards, then I'd zero it at 200 and see where to hold at 50, 100, and 300 and shoot it. It is just a standard Duplex reticle, so nothing that would help me with windage holds... unless I had them install the WindPlex reticle (has 10 MOA holds on each side). Unsure if that is even possible with the age of the scope, but then I'm in the same boat of putting [more] money into the scope. Quoted:My suggestion is to leave it alone and either save it for hunting or sell it on EE. For hunting or general shooting, most hunting caliber rifles have their scopes set for a "point blank" zero. Depending on the cartridge (you did not specify, but something that will chamber in a short action - .243, .260, .308, etc.) that means about 2.5"- 3" high at 100 yards. That will produce hits in a 6" circle or so all the way out to 300 yards without need to mess with elevation turret or hold over with the reticle. Yea, I don't have a use for it other than that rifle, since I already have scopes on my 11-87 slug gun and Glenfield .30-30. I do have a Weaver 4x on my Ruger .44 Carbine, which I might see about swapping the Leupold in, but if not, I'll likely EE it. Sorry for not specifying the cartridge, but .308. I just got into the caliber, as I got the NM M1A and Ishapore 2A1 a few months back. I have been shooting .30-06 (Garand and M1903), and really didn't see a need to go into .308, but wanting an M1A kind of pushed me into it. The Remington was sort of an impulse buy, mainly because of the deal I got on it. My FFL knows I buy guns regularly, and the list price was dropped by a few hundred. Piggy-backed with another transfer, I felt like I stole it. 
Quoted:A better choice to learn long range shooting, holdovers and wind hold offs would be the $300 (when on sale often) Weaver Grand Slam Tactical 3-10x40. It is a MidwayUSA exclusive. See pic of mine below. It has MRAD .1mil per click, turrets that are accurate, repeatable and track well, combined with a matching mil dot reticle. Japanese glass and construction. It is optically equal to or superior to the Leupold you have and has the precise turrets and ranging reticle you need to shoot at longer distances.
I bought one just to learn the MRAD system (which is easy and instinctive). All my other scopes were MOA at that time. I put it on a 1,000 yard capable Sako bolt gun. It is so good it is still there. Incredible performance at the $300 level. It is comparable to scopes costing at least 50% more. Frankly, I don't think there is a better $300 tactical scope on the planet. I'll definitely have to take a look at that one. I prefer MOA currently, considering the Garand background. I was checking my Cabela's Club points, and noticed a nice sizable chunk of change to put towards a new optic. Since I have the Leupold, I looked at them first... and pricing wasn't that bad. Mine is a 2-7x, with 40mm objective. The VX-1 on Cabela's in a 3-9x and 40mm objective is only $199, with a $50 mail-in rebate. Gives me the same reticule, a little more magnification, and the ability to install dials (if my understanding with Leupold optics is correct; has the finger adjustable knobs, so I think dials can be installed by popping the two adjustments off and installing). I don't know what the difference between the VX-1, VX-2, and the currently mounted VARI-X IIc... but that doesn't seem like a bad choice. If the VX-2 is better glass, the same scope setup (3-9x, 40mm) is $299. Going to 50mm bumps the prices up $100... but then I'm definitely going to have to redo the rings. Again, my background with these type of optics is nil... so definitely want to learn any flaws I'm not seeing. If my current optics aren't old school (Unertl reproduction, PU scope) or non-adjustable (older Weavers/Burris on my hunting guns), the only thing I have picked up was the FDE Weaver Kaspa (1.5-6x). Red dots, I have a pretty good understanding with (have an Aimpoint PRO and CompM4s), but not so much with scopes. |
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Had an update from tonight's gunsmithing adventure...
I now have a Remington Model 7, and a Leupold VARI-X IIc. Not mounted, nor will it be on the rifle in the near future. Broke the head off one of the screws that close up the ring around the scope tube. Wanted to take the scope off, to see how it would fit on the Ruger carbine. Scope is perfect, with no damage. Decided to yank the rings/mount off, since I was going to do a new mount. The front most screw was stuck and the hex driver deformed the hex hole in the screw head (other two broke free with a little resistance). Tried some heat, and with an EZ-out, I got it out. Just pulled the action to make sure no metal shavings made their way into the stock/action. So, kind of open to more scopes/rings/mounts than trying to stick with the 1" Leupold rings/mount. |