Posted: 12/8/2014 11:38:15 PM EDT
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What is the proper way to remove a muzzle device from a bolt action rifle? A vice obviously needs to be used, but I'm not sure which part of the rifle needs the most attention. I don't want to put stress on the action screws or mess anything up. Its a R700 SPS Tactical in a B&C A2-style stock.
Thanks. |
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Quoted:
What is the proper way to remove a muzzle device from a bolt action rifle? A vice obviously needs to be used, but I'm not sure which part of the rifle needs the most attention. I don't want to put stress on the action screws or mess anything up. Its a R700 SPS Tactical in a B&C A2-style stock. Thanks. I just use my oak barrel vise blocks in my bench vise, clamp the barrel down then remove the brake/FH. if your forend/handguard is short enough you should be able to do it without removing it from the stock. |
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Really depends on how it was mounted? Hand Tight, Torqued, Shimmed, Lock Tite, etc?
Per above, you are best to clamp the barrel using some type of a commercial barrel block in a vise. Poor Man's Version, clamp two pieces of 2x4 together that are 4"-6" long. You will basically have a square block of wood that is 4"-6" long. Figure out what your barrel diameter is, then drill a hole slightly smaller that diameter down the center of the block long ways. You can then place those two pieces around the barrel and clamp it in a vise. Sometimes this will work/hold, sometimes not. It obviously works better with a straighter tapper barrel. If you are having real issues, - Wrap the barrel with a cold wet towel - Slowly apply heat to the muzzle device (heat gun or torch) This will usually expand the device while the barrel will stay cool, and it will break a lot of things loose. DO NOT overheat anything! BE VERY CAREFUL! If you are having real issues getting it to release, better to have a professional work on it, then torque something and screw it up. Best of Luck, M Richardson |
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Quoted:
Really depends on how it was mounted? Hand Tight, Torqued, Shimmed, Lock Tite, etc? Per above, you are best to clamp the barrel using some type of a commercial barrel block in a vise. Poor Man's Version, clamp two pieces of 2x4 together that are 4"-6" long. You will basically have a square block of wood that is 4"-6" long. Figure out what your barrel diameter is, then drill a hole slightly smaller that diameter down the center of the block long ways. You can then place those two pieces around the barrel and clamp it in a vise. Sometimes this will work/hold, sometimes not. It obviously works better with a straighter tapper barrel. If you are having real issues, - Wrap the barrel with a cold wet towel - Slowly apply heat to the muzzle device (heat gun or torch) This will usually expand the device while the barrel will stay cool, and it will break a lot of things loose. DO NOT overheat anything! BE VERY CAREFUL! If you are having real issues getting it to release, better to have a professional work on it, then torque something and screw it up. Best of Luck, M Richardson If Rocksett was used, which is a common thread locking compound for firearm muzzle devices, heating will only harden the bond. If Rocksett was used then you need to coat the device and a portion of the barrel with oil, then submerge the device in warm water for 3 to 6 hours. Place a wrench on the device and tap with a hammer. The device will break free. (the oil keeps rust from forming, also, clean the bore and oil it before and after you immerse the device) Ted |
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Quoted:
What is the proper way to remove a muzzle device from a bolt action rifle? A vice obviously needs to be used, but I'm not sure which part of the rifle needs the most attention. I don't want to put stress on the action screws or mess anything up. Its a R700 SPS Tactical in a B&C A2-style stock. Thanks. Who installed this 'device'? Bored, HARD WOOD block's, at minimum. A big vise too. |
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Quoted:
That's all handy to know. You a lawyer? Who installed this 'device'? You a comedian? I bought it new-in-box from an authorized Remington dealer. This flash hider supposedly does not even thread on very far. There was a misunderstanding between AAC and Remington when they came out with this model. They used the deep socket version of the flash hider and Remington did not allow the enough threads for it to shoulder properly. So I would assume that it was installed from the factory! My dealer did not do it. |
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Quoted:
You a comedian? I bought it new-in-box from an authorized Remington dealer. This flash hider supposedly does not even thread on very far. There was a misunderstanding between AAC and Remington when they came out with this model. They used the deep socket version of the flash hider and Remington did not allow the enough threads for it to shoulder properly. So I would assume that it was installed from the factory! My dealer did not do it. Quoted:
Quoted:
That's all handy to know. You a lawyer? Who installed this 'device'? You a comedian? I bought it new-in-box from an authorized Remington dealer. This flash hider supposedly does not even thread on very far. There was a misunderstanding between AAC and Remington when they came out with this model. They used the deep socket version of the flash hider and Remington did not allow the enough threads for it to shoulder properly. So I would assume that it was installed from the factory! My dealer did not do it. Yep. Only part time. Ever consider calling Rem.? |