Posted: 12/7/2014 2:21:48 AM EDT
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I have a brand new Savage 111 300 win mag that will not chamber a round or a go gauge; the bolt will not close. However, the bolt will close with an empty chamber. I believe I've cleaned the chamber of any debris as recommended, but still no go. I've talked to Savage CS and the representative said that I have to used the recommended ammo that's in the manual, which is Winchester Ballistic silver tip. He stated the rifle was tested with a go gauge and test fired before it was shipped, but he couldn't tell me what go gauge was used. I find it hard to believe that only one brand and type of ammo will work with this rifle.
Here are some pics of the bolt face and down the chamber, maybe someone can shed some light on this issue. http://i.imgur.com/MdXKva8.jpg http://i.imgur.com/v0KdZkH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Y7K4ISs.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cJRw2X6.jpg http://i.imgur.com/2LAaRDY.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7aapkuq.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CtAP4rC.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6wcFsKC.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Rnk2fF2.jpg |
| if it won't close on a go gauge the headspace is obviously too tight. you have a few choices, keep calling until you get someone competent, find a smith to do the work, or buy the tools to do it yourself (barrel vise and barrel nut wrench). if you decide to DIY it really is easy to set the headspace on a Savage, if you can install an ar barrel you can do this. If your near the panhandle of FL I have the tools you can use. |
| Savage representative was adamant in regards to the rifles functionality before leaving the warehouse; said several rounds were test fired. I do have the necessary tools required for head spacing, as I purchased a bull barrel to swap for the pencil barrel. I was just stumped by not being able to chamber a round or close the bolt with go gauge. I would've liked for the rifle to have been functioning properly before I started my modifications. So tell me, could you tell if anything looked out of place in the pics I posted? |
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Savage representative was adamant in regards to the rifles functionality before leaving the warehouse; said several rounds were test fired. I do have the necessary tools required for head spacing, as I purchased a bull barrel to swap for the pencil barrel. I was just stumped by not being able to chamber a round or close the bolt with go gauge. I would've liked for the rifle to have been functioning properly before I started my modifications. So tell me, could you tell if anything looked out of place in the pics I posted? For some reason only a few of your pics are showing for me, I don't see anything jumping out at me from the ones that do. |
Finally got the barrel removed from the action; stupid smooth barrel nut is a pain in the ass. I tried using the smooth action wrench and brass shim but no matter how much I torqued the setting bolt, the wrench just turned around the bolt. I eventually snapped the setting bolt in two trying to torque the wrench. I finally said screw it, went to Home Depot to get a pipe wrench. below are some pics after barrel was removed. I have a question. does the ejector and extractor have to be removed to set the head space?
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Finally got the barrel removed from the action; stupid smooth barrel nut is a pain in the ass. I tried using the smooth action wrench and brass shim but no matter how much I torqued the setting bolt, the wrench just turned around the bolt. I eventually snapped the setting bolt in two trying to torque the wrench. I finally said screw it, went to Home Depot to get a pipe wrench. below are some pics after barrel was removed. I have a question. does the ejector and extractor have to be removed to set the head space? http://i.imgur.com/tg4V83Xl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/5cAAj7Ql.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EdIlku5l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jNTTOOyl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jw6clrOl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/yasUmvOl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/d6TNVxSl.jpg Yeah smooth barrel nuts suck for removal/install, if you don't have another one look at northland shooters supply or stockade. I remove the ejector from the bolt head when setting the headspace. |
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This may be stupid, but after I have correct headspace, I notice that my action and muzzle brake are not lining up. Am I missing something?
*Edit* I removed the extractor and injector and I was able to set headspace with go and no go gauge. Bolt closed on the go gauge and didn't close on no go. After tightening the barrel nut and reinstalling the extractor and injector, the bolt will not close. This is a head scratcher. |
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This may be stupid, but after I have correct headspace, I notice that my action and muzzle brake are not lining up. Am I missing something? *Edit* I removed the extractor and injector and I was able to set headspace with go and no go gauge. Bolt closed on the go gauge and didn't close on no go. After tightening the barrel nut and reinstalling the extractor and injector, the bolt will not close. This is a head scratcher. did the barrel turn at all when you tightened the nut? are you using a barrel vise or an action wrench? if they timed the muzzle brake with bad headspace, it's understandable that it'd be off if the headspace issue was corrected. is the brake removable or is it one of those fixed ones? |
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did the barrel turn at all when you tightened the nut? are you using a barrel vise or an action wrench? if they timed the muzzle brake with bad headspace, it's understandable that it'd be off if the headspace issue was corrected. is the brake removable or is it one of those fixed ones? Quoted:
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This may be stupid, but after I have correct headspace, I notice that my action and muzzle brake are not lining up. Am I missing something? *Edit* I removed the extractor and injector and I was able to set headspace with go and no go gauge. Bolt closed on the go gauge and didn't close on no go. After tightening the barrel nut and reinstalling the extractor and injector, the bolt will not close. This is a head scratcher. did the barrel turn at all when you tightened the nut? are you using a barrel vise or an action wrench? if they timed the muzzle brake with bad headspace, it's understandable that it'd be off if the headspace issue was corrected. is the brake removable or is it one of those fixed ones? The muzzle brake is removable. I had the Bull barrel made and yesterday was the first time I've really tinkered with it. Maybe I can get the brake lined up properly with a bushing. My biggest concern is the headspacing. I've read that headspace is to be set without the extractor and injector installed, but when I removed them to set my headspace, tightened everything down, I could not close the barrel on the go gauge or a round. If I set headspace with the injector and extractor installed, everything works properly (bolt closes on go gauge and round, but doesn't close on no go), minus actually firing off a round. |
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This may be stupid, but after I have correct headspace, I notice that my action and muzzle brake are not lining up. Am I missing something? *Edit* I removed the extractor and injector and I was able to set headspace with go and no go gauge. Bolt closed on the go gauge and didn't close on no go. After tightening the barrel nut and reinstalling the extractor and injector, the bolt will not close. This is a head scratcher. Ejector or spring too long? Hole not drilled deep enough? Can you depress the ejector flush with the bolt face? |
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When you're cinching the smooth barrel nut down, I'm betting that you're rotating the barrel a bit in the process and actually making things worse, in the process.
Go back and start over, but after you have tested the Go/NoGage, place some precise witness marks wherever you can, before you start tightening things down. This will at least let you know if that's what's happening. I doubt that you bent anything out of proportion, but either the barrel is being moved too far back into the receiver, making the bolt bind on the chamber face, or something is flexing in the wrong way, within the receiver. Chris |
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Chris Quoted:
When you're cinching the smooth barrel nut down Chris Quoted:
When you're cinching the smooth barrel nut down Chris Smooth barrel nut  I chucked that Damn thing as soon as I removed it; talk about a pain in the butt. I have the regular barrel nut installed nowOriginally
Posted By ChrisGarrett: When you're cinching the smooth barrel nut down, I'm betting that you're rotating the barrel a bit in the process and actually making things worse, in the process. Go back and start over, but after you have tested the Go/NoGage, place some precise witness marks wherever you can, before you start tightening things down. This will at least let you know if that's what's happening. I doubt that you bent anything out of proportion, but either the barrel is being moved too far back into the receiver, making the bolt bind on the chamber face, or something is flexing in the wrong way, within the receiver. Chris I had the barrel in a vise between two pieces of soft wood blocks. Nonetheless, it wouldn't hurt to start all over. This time I aim to prevent the extractor ball bearing from flying across the room; I still can't believe I found it. |
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I had the barrel in a vise between two pieces of soft wood blocks. Nonetheless, it wouldn't hurt to start all over. This time I aim to prevent the ball bearing from flying across the room; I still can't believe I found it. Remember, a typical piece of printer paper mics in at .003"+, so you don't need to rotate things much, to muck up the headspacing. I've got a 10FP and a 12 VLP, but I've never fussed with the barrels, but I got my buddy to buy a 10FCP years back and out of the gate, he wanted to do barrel swaps and bought the tools. I just remember him telling me that he had to be careful and start over a couple of times. Similar to mounting a scope in a set of rings, tightening the caps down and then seeing that the force of torquing them down, has rotated the scope a little bit resulted in a canted reticle. Chris |
| Hey guys I got it worked out. I went back and removed the injector and the extractor so that I could adjust the headspace. This time I used the action wrench to hold the action in place instead of trying to hold the barrel in place with the vise and soft wood pieces and that did the trick. I believe Sagill and Chris were right; I believe the barrel moved on me just enough to throw things out of whack. Thanks for all the help. |
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You obviously got the wrong factory rep. I purchased a Savage Axis in 22/250...it chambered the rounds just fine, but it kept shooting low, like very low in the dirt in front of a 50 yard target...and the scopes (after trying 3 mounts, and 4 different scopes, would not get it to shoot on paper, ANYWHERE on paper. I called, rep said send it back, they provided everything needed for the return, a month later it came back with a new barrel and is a tac driver always producing sub 1" groups...go figure.
As far as your gun goes, don't take no for an answer...keep hammering at them....someone will eventually listen, and as far as the person you talked to, ask for his supervisor or whoever is in charge of customer service....that particular factory rep was just a lazy POS that didnt want to go to the trouble of doing his job. Some web sites, (maybe this one?) have factory reps that post regularly and they don't want to hear a bad thing about their product. Savage has many of its guns made in Canada, Im not sure if that has anything to do with it. Happy Trails! |
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Glad to hear you got things worked out. make sure you post pics after your done. there's not to many 300WM Savage shooters out there. My 110FP in 300WM <a href="http://s856.photobucket.com/user/sagillman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Savage/IMG_0493_zpsb8b026cd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab126/sagillman/Mobile%20Uploads/Savage/IMG_0493_zpsb8b026cd.jpg</a> Talk about a piece of work. Did you paint the chassis yourself or did Kyle? What was the turn around time for her? I plan to have that very setup but I'm leaning towards the Tactical stock. I've not decided on color but I've narrowed it to all black or Dallas Cowboy black, blue, and silver. I will post pic but it won't be anytime soon. I just can't justify spending all that money on myself during the Christmas season. Now January 1st is another thing 
@ EvilVaquero I figured the rep that I spoke to was full of it. To tell me that one type of bullet will work is horse poo I believe the headspace was set short at the factory. But since I had plans to swap barrel anyway, I just didn't worry about it too much.
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Talk about a piece of work. Did you paint the chassis yourself or did Kyle? What was the turn around time for her? I plan to have that very setup but I'm leaning towards the Tactical stock. I've not decided on color but I've narrowed it to all black or Dallas Cowboy black, blue, and silver. I will post pic but it won't be anytime soon. I just can't justify spending all that money on myself during the Christmas season. Now January 1st is another thing
@ EvilVaquero I figured the rep that I spoke to was full of it. To tell me that one type of bullet will work is horse poo I believe the headspace was set short at the factory. But since I had plans to swap barrel anyway, I just didn't worry about it too much.
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Glad to hear you got things worked out. make sure you post pics after your done. there's not to many 300WM Savage shooters out there. My 110FP in 300WM <a href="http://s856.photobucket.com/user/sagillman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Savage/IMG_0493_zpsb8b026cd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/ab126/sagillman/Mobile%20Uploads/Savage/IMG_0493_zpsb8b026cd.jpg</a> Talk about a piece of work. Did you paint the chassis yourself or did Kyle? What was the turn around time for her? I plan to have that very setup but I'm leaning towards the Tactical stock. I've not decided on color but I've narrowed it to all black or Dallas Cowboy black, blue, and silver. I will post pic but it won't be anytime soon. I just can't justify spending all that money on myself during the Christmas season. Now January 1st is another thing
@ EvilVaquero I figured the rep that I spoke to was full of it. To tell me that one type of bullet will work is horse poo I believe the headspace was set short at the factory. But since I had plans to swap barrel anyway, I just didn't worry about it too much.
I did the Cerakoting myself. I prefer AR15 ergonomics so that's the main reason I went the chassis route, well that and I'm to impatient to wait 3 months for a Manners stock. |
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So how long did you have to wait for the Evolution? Quoted:
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I did the Cerakoting myself. I prefer AR15 ergonomics so that's the main reason I went the chassis route, well that and I'm to impatient to wait 3 months for a Manners stock. So how long did you have to wait for the Evolution? UPS delivered it on my doorstep in 5 weeks from the day I ordered. |
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UPS delivered it on my doorstep in 5 weeks from the day I ordered. Quoted:
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I did the Cerakoting myself. I prefer AR15 ergonomics so that's the main reason I went the chassis route, well that and I'm to impatient to wait 3 months for a Manners stock. So how long did you have to wait for the Evolution? UPS delivered it on my doorstep in 5 weeks from the day I ordered. So, is that a Rem 700 with Bull bbl? How much does your setup weigh? That brake is Badass, Is it a clamp on? I have a Savage 111 with a 26" Bull barrel and it's heavy. That's not including the scope, mount, bipod, and brake that will be installed. |
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So, is that a Rem 700 with Bull bbl? How much does your setup weigh? That brake is Badass, Is it a clamp on? I have a Savage 111 with a 26" Bull barrel and it's heavy. That's not including the scope, mount, bipod, and brake that will be installed. Quoted:
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I did the Cerakoting myself. I prefer AR15 ergonomics so that's the main reason I went the chassis route, well that and I'm to impatient to wait 3 months for a Manners stock. So how long did you have to wait for the Evolution? UPS delivered it on my doorstep in 5 weeks from the day I ordered. So, is that a Rem 700 with Bull bbl? How much does your setup weigh? That brake is Badass, Is it a clamp on? I have a Savage 111 with a 26" Bull barrel and it's heavy. That's not including the scope, mount, bipod, and brake that will be installed. It's a Savage 110FP, Ed Vandenberg brake (threaded not clamped). it really kills the the recoil, it feels like shooting a .308. the weight is a little on the heavy side 17.5lbs, but that also helps with recoil to. |