Posted: 11/23/2011 2:00:24 PM EDT
|
My understanding is that I aim based on the distance on the ground. So from tree to deer, NOT me to deer... Correct?
I have all my lanes marked so when a deer walks through I am able to know if its at 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 yds from my tree. |
|
Correct. If you are measuring distances from the base of your tree, just use those when elevated.
Are you using a rangefinder? If so, and it doesn't have ARC just range level to the ground. If it does have ARC you'll only notice a large difference on extreme angles. I bought a new rangefinder this year that has it. Set up yesterday in the climber 33' up on the edge of a 20' rock ledge. It did make quite a difference at those angles, but at normal heights and ranges its not a big deal. |
|
also when shooting down, you must aim to the vital organs in the middle of the deer.
While on the ground you can aim at the skin of the deer, but in a tree the arrow is not traveling horizontal, it will enter the deer at an angle and travel down through the deer, so you must aim to put the arrow in the heart by hitting the deer higher on the skin so when the arrow travels through the deer at the angle it will hit the vitals inside the deer. Otherwise you will miss the vitals low. Aim on the deer while visualizing where the vitals are inside the deer. |
|
Quoted: Just wanted to double check... I dont have any range finders.... even thought about buying just a reg range finder and doing some trigonometry to get the distance... just cause I can ![]() http://2.media.collegehumor.cvcdn.com/60/89/c606d0e8ba6060266346abed8668ed21.jpg Am I the only one who got that? ![]() |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just wanted to double check... I dont have any range finders.... even thought about buying just a reg range finder and doing some trigonometry to get the distance... just cause I can
http://2.media.collegehumor.cvcdn.com/60/89/c606d0e8ba6060266346abed8668ed21.jpg Am I the only one who got that?
no. I got it. COS B |
| usualy carry me an arrow with field point, an before getting down, pick out a leaf, two years ago a buck had been watching over period of time, had just made it's swing bye, just out of bow range, waited about half hour, looked around reel good didn't see any thing, twas gonna get down an try find a tree closer to buck, pulled arrow back, an happened to glance tome right, twas a doe bout 50 yrds watchen... it twas headen on trail just 20yrds infront of me, twas one of them ahhhh moments... |
| I always get confused with this topic... heres why... when it comes to the angle, yours supposed to aim a little higher, to hit the vitals, however when shooting from elevated positions arnt your supposed to aim low? Gravity wont effect you arrow as much if its flying at a downward angle, vrs flying parallel to the ground... Soo in theroy, aiming dead on shouldnt that put the arrow were it needs to be anyway? or am I confused beyond all help.... ( in new to bow hunting, 2nd year this year, I missed a few easy shots last year due to this very problem, and overthinking) |
|
It's actually the pythagorean theorem It's hard to answer your questions without knowing how your bow is shot in. If you are dialed in/zeroed on level ground, as a general rule, you need to hold LOW when shooting down at an angle from a tree. Lower 1/3 is a good rule of thumb. By holding lower 1/3 it also gives you a little extra margin to make a good hit if the deer drops when you release, they tend to drop right into the arrow. If they do drop, you'll get a higher hit, but still vital (possibly even dropping them on the spot) and won't be disappointed when it goes right over them. This holds true regardless of distance. As Mach pointed out, envision where you want the arrow to come out, slice a line along the expected trajectory of your arrow and there is your goes in spot to hold. This is especially important for steep angle shots, try to avoid the 1 lunger if possible. Should you ever decide to try to spine shoot one facing dead away from you, remember the hold low principle as well. If you hold about half way down the back, it'll go right between the shoulder blades. If you hold between the shoulder blades and the head is down on the deer, it's highly probable you just shot right over him and drove an arrow into the ground right in front of his nose. IMHO, the best thing to do is to shoot your bow in from an elevated position if that's how you'll normally be hunting. ETA: and since this is AR15.com, I'll add the rifle analogy. It's the same principle that makes you have to hold at the 2 O'clock position if you're shooting an AR at a 90 degree cant (ejection port up) to get a center hit. Gravity and arc of the projectile. |
|
Quoted:
It's actually the pythagorean theorem It's hard to answer your questions without knowing how your bow is shot in. If you are dialed in/zeroed on level ground, as a general rule, you need to hold LOW when shooting down at an angle from a tree. Lower 1/3 is a good rule of thumb. By holding lower 1/3 it also gives you a little extra margin to make a good hit if the deer drops when you release, they tend to drop right into the arrow. If they do drop, you'll get a higher hit, but still vital (possibly even dropping them on the spot) and won't be disappointed when it goes right over them. This holds true regardless of distance. As Mach pointed out, envision where you want the arrow to come out, slice a line along the expected trajectory of your arrow and there is your goes in spot to hold. This is especially important for steep angle shots, try to avoid the 1 lunger if possible. Should you ever decide to try to spine shoot one facing dead away from you, remember the hold low principle as well. If you hold about half way down the back, it'll go right between the shoulder blades. If you hold between the shoulder blades and the head is down on the deer, it's highly probable you just shot right over him and drove an arrow into the ground right in front of his nose. IMHO, the best thing to do is to shoot your bow in from an elevated position if that's how you'll normally be hunting. This. Always aim low from an elevated position. Also, on quartering away shots, aim for the far side shoulder. ETA: and since this is AR15.com, I'll add the rifle analogy. It's the same principle that makes you have to hold at the 2 O'clock position if you're shooting at AR a 90 degree cant (ejection port up) to get a center hit. Gravity and arc of the projectile. |
|
Quoted:
It's actually the pythagorean theorem It's hard to answer your questions without knowing how your bow is shot in. If you are dialed in/zeroed on level ground, as a general rule, you need to hold LOW when shooting down at an angle from a tree. Lower 1/3 is a good rule of thumb. By holding lower 1/3 it also gives you a little extra margin to make a good hit if the deer drops when you release, they tend to drop right into the arrow. If they do drop, you'll get a higher hit, but still vital (possibly even dropping them on the spot) and won't be disappointed when it goes right over them. This holds true regardless of distance. As Mach pointed out, envision where you want the arrow to come out, slice a line along the expected trajectory of your arrow and there is your goes in spot to hold. This is especially important for steep angle shots, try to avoid the 1 lunger if possible. Should you ever decide to try to spine shoot one facing dead away from you, remember the hold low principle as well. If you hold about half way down the back, it'll go right between the shoulder blades. If you hold between the shoulder blades and the head is down on the deer, it's highly probable you just shot right over him and drove an arrow into the ground right in front of his nose. IMHO, the best thing to do is to shoot your bow in from an elevated position if that's how you'll normally be hunting. This. Always aim low from an elevated position. Also, on quartering away shots, aim for the far side shoulder. |
What rangefinder do you use for shooting? I always use Laserworks LW1000Pro Rangefinder
|
| Actually you hold for the horizontal distance. In my case, I have a single pin sight, so I will dial for the distance and hold on exactly where I want the arrow to go. if the horizontal distance is 20 yds or less, I have my sight set for 20 and put the pin on where the arrow needs to go. If it doesn't hit there, I screwed up. beyond 20, I set the distance. |
|
So call me crazy. I usually practice elevated shooting before season. My 20-30 yard pin has never had much of a difference in POA from being on the ground or 20-25’ in a tree. The tricky shots are usually when the deer are right below you but that’s with shot placement not POA adjustments. |


ill still give her the old college try though..