Posted: 11/5/2012 8:58:18 PM EDT
| What’s the best distance to zero this scope for this sport given the large number of close up shots? Vortex says to zero the Razor II at 200yrds, aside from being really difficult to do and avoid cross winds and what not, it seemed to make my 50-75 yard shots hit a bit high. That could have been attributed to the difficulties I had zeroing outdoors at that distance but it could also just be the zero. I typically zero at 25m or 50m but prior to this I used an Eotech. So should I go with the factory recommended 200yrd zero or is there something else that’s proven to work better? Any tips on making zeroing that distance outside any easier? It seems like accounting for wind while zeroing would screw with the precision of it all? |
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I have a gen II also and attempted to sight mine in at 200 as the manual said but it was a VERY windy day and I was shooting 55 grain so my rounds were all over the place. I shot a match on Saturday and knew that my hold over was about 1.5". Which I had to use a lot due to the fact that this match shoots everything up close.
If you dont plan on shooting out to far distances, another option would be to sight it in at whatever yardage you want and see how the hashmarks correspond after you get it sighted in, but that could be tricky to have to remember what yardage each mark is. I'm going to keep mine at 200 and just try to remember to use my hold over at close up shots. Nick |
| The problem I was having was that my 50yrd targets were 10" plates so my little misses were just misses and cost me a lot of time. Any tips on making zeroing it easier? The info that comes with the scope says that it should be dead on at 50 and 200yrds so I wasnt execting that. I had just zeroed it that day and didnt have time to check holdovers before the match. I'd prefer not to have holdovers that close since it screws with the speed needed on those shots. |
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Did you also post here? With the 69gr I mention in that thread, 50y hit is within 0.1" of the 200y zero in theory. I actually zero'd at 50y, then moved to 100y to adjust windage more, and then tested at 250y steel and 500y steel. Did it that way since those are the range increments available at the range I frequent. With the crap spotting scope I had with me at the time, the hits at 250y steel looked very close in drop to what the ballistic table I had worked up said they should be, and then with the 500y steel, I was getting hits on steel, but couldn't confirm if the drop was lining up on the actual target, but the hash line for holdover was resulting in hits.
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