Posted: 11/4/2010 3:52:54 PM EDT
|
Got a wild hair and decided to try snaring some pigs. I wanted to make some but found deals on ebay that make it not worth my time at least for the first 2 dozen.
I have 2 feeders a half mile apart the pigs travel between on a trail a blind person could find. PLENTY of places where the trail goes within a couple of feet of a tree. I have a dozen snares with a swivel end and a dozen with an adjustable loop end. HOw do you attach the snares to the tree? I plan to put something by the trail where the snares are to make sure they go through the snare. I will also have on rubber boots and wear disposable gloves to cut down on my scent. Any tips to share to help my success? |
|
Here's a few tips we have about snaring hogs. We're not experts on doing it but it's not that difficult to do if you have a good place to do it. One thing, if they're still alive when you come up to them they're going to be really pissed. Even more pissed than when they're in a trap, so make sure you anchor your snare to something solid so it doesn't come loose.
http://www.wildhoghunters.com/content/186-snaring-wild-hog.html In any case, we use coat hangers to hang our snares from trees. Just bend them up like you can see in this picture and it holds the snare very securely. When we hang them from fence wires or something like that we just use paperclips. 
|
|
Just remember that snares are “non-selective” and great care must exercised… to avoid catching non-target animals.
Hogs tend to be creatures of habit (if undisturbed), so setting snares along known travel routes (trails) or at fence crossings can be very productive. I don’t recommend anchoring your snare to the fence-line itself (learned that one the hard way). You never know what size hog you might catch….and big ones WILL tear up a fence. For fence crossings or in openings where no trees are available, I like to use Mobile-Home anchors that can be screwed into the ground. (some folks use rebar driven into the ground). How feasible this is…depends upon the soil of course. Large hogs will “try” your tackle….so make sure it is stout: 
Use full 1/8” cable and make sure to use a swivel. Even then…expect to have damage. This boar pretty much ruined both the snare and the lead. 
If there is any chance of catching a big hog…replace the cable stops if they are the small hammer on type (shown cut off here) or epoxy over them. 
Important Note: If your hog is still alive when you find it…. he/she WILL NOT be happy. You don’t want the cable stop to pop off when they charge you (and they will). This boar charged me six times (while I was taking pics and looking for a shot opportunity) 
The cable stop held….but if it hadn’t he would have been “in my back pocket” faster than you can say “Oh….$*%@”. There are different types of locks you can use. Some are “relaxing” (don’t choke the animal down), others are of a locking type (dispatch the animal) …..BUT some of the locking types (not cam locks) can bend and become a non-locking mechanism (as was the case with the boar above.). Use good tackle; you never know what you are going to catch. |
|
Quoted:
Ponyboy have you guys ever had one tear a fence up after it was snared? I have a few places along some of the fields that are hotspots but the fence is brand new and I'm afraid it will get tore up. We've never caught one big enough to tear up a fence, but I have no doubt that a big one could tear up a fence if he wanted to.. We've started using 36" pieces of rebar bent almost in half in a tall U shape and drive them into the ground as far as we can get them. However, I think the mobile home anchors that Flintknapper is using is probably more suitable for the job. Like I said, we're not experts on snaring but I got in some more snares and we're going to do it a lot more this winter. I'm ready to catch a big one. |
|
Good luck, be careful.
A few tips: 1. Make a 90 bend in the cable where it goes through lock (if using anyt kind of Berkshire or washer lock). This will allow you to gather up the first 5”-6” inches of your loop (next to the lock) and lay it alongside the main cable. You can also put a slight bend in that section (with the lay) and it will “fire” (self close) the loop as soon as it is pulled from suspension. 2. Do NOT put out any feed or attractants on a trail or fence crossing. You want the hogs to be moving. Hog on trails (especially at night) tend to move briskly, that is what you want. 3. Be careful to control your scent when placing snares. New snares will have an odor to them, so boil them…or place them outside for a few days prior to setting them the first time. 4. Different size hogs require different size loops (to give you the best chance of catching them). For medium size hogs….a loop of 12”-14” set about 8”-10” (bottom of loop) off the ground will be about right. 5. If you use sticks, logs, etc…to funnel down hogs near your set, don’t go crazy with it. Use just enough to insure they travel right down the middle of the path. Remember, you are dealing with a fairly small loop… but a hog’s head that is pretty big. The set has to be accurate or they will miss the loop. 6. When checking your snares…..BE CAREFUL. Hogs are not always dead when you find them. Some will be caught by the neck and one leg (shoulder), others will be caught by the snout (mouth open), some by the neck….but the lock didn’t work (if a non-relaxing type). If they have twisted the cable, made a kink in it, etc….they might break loose when you approach. |
|
Quoted:
6. When checking your snares…..BE CAREFUL. This is probably the best piece of advice if you're not used to dealing with live hogs or even if you are used to dealing with live hogs. The best way to describe a hog when you walk up on them when they're trapped or snared is "fucking pissed". If you've never trapped or snared before you have no idea how mad they are going to be and the bigger they are the madder they get. There will be running, squealing, bleeding, spitting, grunting, biting, teeth chomping all going on at the same time while the hog runs around like it's crazy. It's quite possible that the hog will be laying down when you approach it, so don't assume that just because it's laying down it is dead. If you're going to shoot it then approach quietly and shoot it from a distance before it starts going crazy. It's much harder to shoot a hog when it's running around and if you make a bad shot and don't incapacitate it, it's only going to be madder. Remember, this thing is fighting for its life. Also, the moment you walk up to it will be the hardest it's tried to escape since it's been caught so that will also be the most likely time it will break loose. I've taken some of my kids along when we're out trapping and I'll let them get around the hogs when everything is secure, but I'd never take them with me when I'm snaring because I feel that it's just too dangerous. We've never had anything happen but the possibility is definitely there. |
|
I have trapped before just never snared. I have definitely seen some boars go completely ape shit when I approached the trap and I agree that until you see it you really have no appreciation for how pissed and POWERFUL they are at that moment. Very impressive. I imagine a snared boar will be at a whole new level of ape shit!
I am actually pretty excited about this. Sunday after my daughter shot her deer I looked over at the hog trail and it just hit me right then that it was just something I needed to do because I have never snared anything bigger than a rabbit. I want it to be a learning experience with my kids as well, but agree COMPLETELY that it is not kid friendly when checking the snares. This will be a before and after dead experience for the kids. I like the advice on pigs laying down. I saved one of my brothers from a boar ass whooping as he was casually walking towards one he had shot. It was completely motionless but upright. I had him stop, walk back towards me, and shoot it again. Big boar, and two more shots later from the .44 mag it was dead. That was almost a very bad situation for him. Great advice from you guys. Hopefully I have a good AAR to share 10 or so days from now. |
Great first experience. Snared one the first night out, on the very first snare I set up. Unfortunately, it was a BIG one. It won the fight against my gear. Check out what it did to the lock and crimp. Extra pics to show you what one looks like before getting trashed by a big one. Note the hair and flesh? still attached to the lock.
I do not consider this a fail. My scent discipline and instinct for location were ok. The cable and bottom loop crimp DID NOT fail so I am GTG on all of those. The lock and top crimp are my areas to focus on for my next attempt in 2 weeks if I am geared up and ready by then. Any suggestions or replacement links on these parts? |
|
NDWoods wrote:
Great first experience. Snared one the first night out, on the very first snare I set up. Unfortunately, it was a BIG one. It won the fight against my gear. Check out what it did to the lock and crimp.
You didn't heed the advice given in my previous post (replace cable stops...or epoxy over them) so they don't pop off. I didn't write that because it MIGHT happen....I wrote that because it WILL happen. You are fortunate you were not around when the equipment failed. As I stated in my post, you never know what size hog you will snare....(or what it's condition will be when you find it). UPGRADE your snares before putting them out.....or keep your health insurance up to date. 
Good luck to you, and BE CAREFUL. Flint |