Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
9/1/2015 11:57:28 PM EDT
Planning on building a mobile UHF/VHF EMCOMM go box for when the balloon goes up.

This diagram shows is what I'm planning:



First question is, how do I connect the radio to the battery in the first place?  What specific cable would I need?  I'd rather not have to buy a crimper (assuming Anderson powerpoles) and would prefer something pre-made for this.  

Second question is, how do I then connect the radio to the battery AND the battery to the Ki0bk solar charger controller simultaneously?  By that, I mean what specific cables do I need.

Another thread covered the powerwerx female spade connector/power pole combo but that would only solve the radio to the battery connection and would prevent/block me from connecting the battery to the Ki0bk charge controller.  I would need to "complete the chain" and have them connected simultaneously.  For this discussion, I plan to use an AGM battery designed for indoor use in the 20-30 amp hour range for portability.

Please critique my diagram and tell me what else I'm missing.

-RADIO: tentatively planning on a Yaesu mobile (but will review previous threads for ideas)

-SOLAR PANEL: I'm planning on Powerfilm 20 watt F15 rollable panel

-Pelican case to organize/transport

Thanks a lot
9/2/2015 12:09:10 AM EDT
[#1]
What connectors are on the battery you want to buy? It should not be a big deal to come up with a pigtail type cable for that.



OK - I just looked up the charge controller you mentioned.







The description says that the solar panel connectors are not in ARES standard orientation, so you may have a problem finding a pre-made cable for that side.




What connectors/wires are on your solar panel?
9/2/2015 12:10:46 AM EDT
[#2]
Haven't picked out a specific battery yet but I'm assuming male spade type.

Thanks
9/2/2015 12:18:16 AM EDT
[#3]
See my additions to the previous reply.





If there's nobody local to you, drop me an IM about your powerpole needs. Odds are high that there is a local HAM club with at least one person who has a set of PP crimpers.







FYI - There is no need to buy the expensive manufacturer model - the $40 PowerWerx crimpers are EXCELLENT. If you think you might do more PowerPole work later, I cannot over-emphasis how good an investment they are. Spend 5 minutes to get an iffy connection or 30 seconds to get a perfect crimp.


 
9/2/2015 12:27:41 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote History
Quoted:
See my additions to the previous reply.

If there's nobody local to you, drop me an IM about your powerpole needs. Odds are high that there is a local HAM club with at least one person who has a set of PP crimpers.


FYI - There is no need to buy the expensive manufacturer model - the $40 PowerWerx crimpers are EXCELLENT. If you think you might do more PowerPole work later, I cannot over-emphasis how good an investment they are. Spend 5 minutes to get an iffy connection or 30 seconds to get a perfect crimp.
 
View Quote

this
9/2/2015 12:49:19 AM EDT
[#5]
Agreed about the Powerwerx crimpers.  Well worth the price.

On the KI0BK solar charge controller, look at the left side input from the solar panel.  The reason for this, that is the solar panel input.  The
solar panel runs 16-18 vdc.  You do not want that voltage going to your other ham gear, which is designed for 13.8-14.1 vdc.  Thus the orientation
of the input Powerpoles.

Here is the sketch of how to rig all this up, from KI0BK.



By the way, this is the same solar charge controller I have.  I was a beta tester, and I suggested he use green-black on the solar panel
cords and input to the charge controller, but he went one further, rotating the contacts 90*.  

You need at least 12 ga, better 10 ga red/black zip cord for the power leads.  Get that at Powerwerx.  You can also get just about anything
you would need custom made either from Powerwerx or Quick Silver Radio (www.qsradio.com).

You need the Low Loss Power Gate, or the power gates from Samlex or Astron, which they call "battery backup modules".  The problem with
those two is they use a type of diode that has some voltage loss.  The MOSFETs used in the KI0BK have almost no voltage loss.

Radio to battery... 10 ga red/black zip cord with 1/4" ring terminals.  I used the Gruber Power (www.gruberpower.com) "Elite" batteries, which
have 1/4" bolts on the terminals.

I have about 10' of the 10 ga cable from the battery going to the radio gear, with Anderson Powerpoles on the end opposite the battery.  

Also hooked up to the battery, a 12 ga cable, again red/black, about the same length as the 10 ga, with Anderson PP on the end.

I have a couple of other 10 ga extensions made up with Powerpoles on each end.  

I have a short Y with battery clamps going to Powerpoles for quick attachment to car, boat, or other battery.  You must be very careful hooking
this up, just as you would with jumper cables, as reverse polarity would really ruin your day.  Red to +, black to -.  This Y is not routinely used,
but kept just in case.

Everything else has Powerpoles.  Short 10 ga cable with Powerpoles on each end and a 25 amp fuse to go from a power distribution strip to
the radio.  The cord coming off the back of the radio is  cut to about 6" and has Powerpoles.  Also, I keep a little zipper bag, like a bank bag,
with assorted fuses and the little Powerpole "keepers" that prevent them from pulling loose accidentally.

I do not use a battery voltage booster. If the battery voltage gets too low to operate the radio I want it to shut down and not damage the battery.  
After a charge, even partial charge, the radio can be operated a little.  But I will not continue operation with a voltage booster and ruin a battery.  
I just don't get that.
9/2/2015 12:54:38 AM EDT
[#6]
Please read through this thread.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_22/671603_Portable_power_and_Solar_Charging_Gadgets.html
9/2/2015 1:16:06 AM EDT
[#7]
Anyone using Lithium-Iron batteries?    They seem to have the best "abuse rate" survivability from all other types regarding total discharge damage and number of cycles.  

Only thing is they require a different charging and floating circuitry than the other models.



9/2/2015 7:40:13 AM EDT
[#8]
For your commute driving pleasure: Fo Time #30: Solar Power for Portable Ops

9/2/2015 1:07:24 PM EDT
[#9]
I use these to crimp Powerpole connectors.

9/2/2015 2:23:44 PM EDT
[#10]
Jupiter -- if you do not have / want the AC power supply, is there any danger or problem with putting a pigtail on the battery to connect it directly to both the charge controller and the load?
9/2/2015 5:23:35 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote History
Quoted:
Jupiter -- if you do not have / want the AC power supply, is there any danger or problem with putting a pigtail on the battery to connect it directly to both the charge controller and the load?
View Quote


Not a problem.  Then you don't need the Low Loss Power Gate.  Having a power supply, and if portable, one more way to power the rig.

I like the Samlex supplies, but also consider this one that a good friend uses:   http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html

Something I missed, you are planning on powering a VHF/HF mobile... 12 ga wire would work as well, no need to use all 10 ga.
9/2/2015 5:34:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Quoted:
Anyone using Lithium-Iron batteries?    They seem to have the best "abuse rate" survivability from all other types regarding total discharge damage and number of cycles.  

Only thing is they require a different charging and floating circuitry than the other models.



View Quote


I am.  I have two, 8,400 mAh LiFePO4 batteries from Hobby King that I use to run a 857D.  Hint . . . build adapter cables rather that cutting off the existing connectors and putting on Anderson Powerpoles.  I get about two hours of operation at 100 watts with moderate transmitting per battery.

Zippy

I also have a few 5,000 mAh LiPoly batteries. Same hint.  I get about 30 minutes of moderate transmitting on each of these.

Zippy Lipoly


ETA:  WARNING!  If ordering from Hobby King be very careful to select the right warehouse BEFORE adding to your cart.  Prices and availability can vary widely depending on the warehouse.  Also, if you sit on a product page for a while, a discounted "buy it right friggin now" offer often pops up.

9/2/2015 10:02:25 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote History
Quoted:
Anyone using Lithium-Iron batteries?    They seem to have the best "abuse rate" survivability from all other types regarding total discharge damage and number of cycles.  

Only thing is they require a different charging and floating circuitry than the other models.



View Quote


I am waiting for prices to come down. My setup is based on good ol' AGM's for the moment.

This is very timely, I just wrung out my solar setup this weekend and will post a pictorial by this coming weekend.


ETA re: power supplies a friend turned me on to this Samlex charger/supply and I'm considering getting one since it can pull dual duty. Presently I am using a Noco 7 A charger to float my AGM, which runs the rig. I've just discovered that the Noco is VERY noisy.
9/3/2015 12:29:21 AM EDT
[#14]
Not too bad a price.

http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamps/6051.html
9/3/2015 12:42:35 AM EDT
[#15]
Check this one.  They also carry different solar panels sizes.

http://solar24.pw/products.php




9/16/2015 11:41:47 PM EDT
[#16]
Thanks guys for all the replies, IMs, and kind offers. I plan to respond to the IMs soon.  I know this is several days old but I've been busy around here.

My primary design (and corresponding pictogram) is with emergent, mobile operations without the availability of power.  

If I was interested only in solar powered operations, my diagram would work, no?