Posted: 11/24/2014 12:38:35 PM EDT
|
I enjoy listening to the local UHF/VHF repeaters. Problem is, I didn't pay attention to ARFHAM: I bought a Kenwood TH-F6A HT for my first radio. I can hear, but I can't talk with only 5 watts.
I'll get a little money at Christmas, so I was thinking of giving myself an output boost. Do I want an amplifier for use with my HT, such as a Mirage BD-35, or do I get a portable like an FT-7900R or TM-V71A? I've built a couple of quarter-wave ground plane antennas for 144 and 440, but I'll need a mobile antenna to handle the increased power either way. I don't have a shack because I have children, so by necessity, everything will be a hybrid of portable and mobile. |
I have kids, 5, put your shack in a box...use, then put away so they can't play 
a good antenna on the roof or chimney will greatly enhance your HT's capability. I used my HT with external antennas for more than a year once I got my ticket. Both rigs you mention are GTG with the Kenwood offering Cross-band Repeat which would allow you to use your HT, even around the house. You'll need a power supply to make 13.8vdc to power the radio. some antennas to look at: http://www.n9tax.com/Slim%20Jim%20Info.html fong Blackbird Jpole there's lots more out there.... |
|
Quoted:
both the FT-7900R or TM-V71A are excellent radios. I have a lot more fun on HF around here VHF/UHF is mostly old retired farts discussing there epizootics and if they want to meet at Denny's or Bob evans for 1600pm dinner. nothin wrong with going mobile.... <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/RADIO/IMGP5277_zps177ca4a7.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/RADIO/IMGP5277_zps177ca4a7.jpg</a> <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/RADIO/tarheelstrong_zpsf514cae0.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/RADIO/tarheelstrong_zpsf514cae0.jpg</a> I get 440 repeaters in Philly that have a lot of traffic with almost no mention of bunions or early-bird specials. I frequently go into parking garages with my truck. Even a 20" antenna would hit. Is yours a quick-disconnect of some sort? |
|
Quoted:
I can talk 20 miles flat farmland, with an HT 1w and Diamond X 50's on each roof. Antenna trumps watts +1000000000 You'd be surprised what you can do with 5 Watts and a good mobile antenna. Of course, a 50W mobile rig will do better if you are willing to spend money. Beware that cheap mobile radios like FT2900 or TM-281 have very low TX duty cycle. They get very hot and may shut off if you transmit at high power for more than 5 minutes or have a long raw chew at high power setting. Also TM-281 has no squelch adjustment knob which I found terribly inconvenient when talking to other stations on simplex. I would advise to spend more money and get a good mobile rig like FT7800, FT8800, TM-V71A if you want a dual band radio. An Icom IC-V8000 is probably the best choice if you want a rigid 75W 2m mobile rig. Whatever you get, make sure it has a cooling fan. |
|
Quoted:
I can talk 20 miles flat farmland, with an HT 1w and Diamond X 50's on each roof. Antenna trumps watts I tried. Hills and lots of trees. I could barely reach a repeater five miles away with 4w and a Diamond SRH320. I haven't had a good weekend to try out my quarter-wave yet. I'll most certainly do that before I fork out cash for a new radio. |
|
Quoted:
+1000000000 You'd be surprised what you can do with 5 Watts and a good mobile antenna. Of course, a 50W mobile rig will do better if you are willing to spend money. Beware that cheap mobile radios like FT2900 or TM-281 have very low TX duty cycle. They get very hot and may shut off if you transmit at high power for more than 5 minutes or have a long raw chew at high power setting. Also TM-281 has no squelch adjustment knob which I found terribly inconvenient when talking to other stations on simplex. I would advise to spend more money and get a good mobile rig like FT7800, FT8800, TM-V71A if you want a dual band radio. An Icom IC-V8000 is probably the best choice if you want a rigid 75W 2m mobile rig. Whatever you get, make sure it has a cooling fan. Quoted:
Quoted:
I can talk 20 miles flat farmland, with an HT 1w and Diamond X 50's on each roof. Antenna trumps watts +1000000000 You'd be surprised what you can do with 5 Watts and a good mobile antenna. Of course, a 50W mobile rig will do better if you are willing to spend money. Beware that cheap mobile radios like FT2900 or TM-281 have very low TX duty cycle. They get very hot and may shut off if you transmit at high power for more than 5 minutes or have a long raw chew at high power setting. Also TM-281 has no squelch adjustment knob which I found terribly inconvenient when talking to other stations on simplex. I would advise to spend more money and get a good mobile rig like FT7800, FT8800, TM-V71A if you want a dual band radio. An Icom IC-V8000 is probably the best choice if you want a rigid 75W 2m mobile rig. Whatever you get, make sure it has a cooling fan. It seems that the consensus is to forget an amp for the HT and go with a dedicated portable mobile rig. How would I know if the mobile has a low duty cycle? I'm thinking the V71 is the ticket. |
|
Quoted:
+1000000000 You'd be surprised what you can do with 5 Watts and a good mobile antenna. Of course, a 50W mobile rig will do better if you are willing to spend money. Beware that cheap mobile radios like FT2900 or TM-281 have very low TX duty cycle. They get very hot and may shut off if you transmit at high power for more than 5 minutes or have a long raw chew at high power setting. Also TM-281 has no squelch adjustment knob which I found terribly inconvenient when talking to other stations on simplex. I would advise to spend more money and get a good mobile rig like FT7800, FT8800, TM-V71A if you want a dual band radio. An Icom IC-V8000 is probably the best choice if you want a rigid 75W 2m mobile rig. Whatever you get, make sure it has a cooling fan. Quoted:
Quoted:
I can talk 20 miles flat farmland, with an HT 1w and Diamond X 50's on each roof. Antenna trumps watts +1000000000 You'd be surprised what you can do with 5 Watts and a good mobile antenna. Of course, a 50W mobile rig will do better if you are willing to spend money. Beware that cheap mobile radios like FT2900 or TM-281 have very low TX duty cycle. They get very hot and may shut off if you transmit at high power for more than 5 minutes or have a long raw chew at high power setting. Also TM-281 has no squelch adjustment knob which I found terribly inconvenient when talking to other stations on simplex. I would advise to spend more money and get a good mobile rig like FT7800, FT8800, TM-V71A if you want a dual band radio. An Icom IC-V8000 is probably the best choice if you want a rigid 75W 2m mobile rig. Whatever you get, make sure it has a cooling fan. It just so happens I know a guy that just took one of those out of his car when he traded it in and it's just sitting on the shelf. 
|
|
Quoted: It seems that the consensus is to forget an amp for the HT and go with a dedicated portable mobile rig. How would I know if the mobile has a low duty cycle? I'm thinking the V71 is the ticket. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I can talk 20 miles flat farmland, with an HT 1w and Diamond X 50's on each roof. Antenna trumps watts +1000000000 You'd be surprised what you can do with 5 Watts and a good mobile antenna. Of course, a 50W mobile rig will do better if you are willing to spend money. Beware that cheap mobile radios like FT2900 or TM-281 have very low TX duty cycle. They get very hot and may shut off if you transmit at high power for more than 5 minutes or have a long raw chew at high power setting. Also TM-281 has no squelch adjustment knob which I found terribly inconvenient when talking to other stations on simplex. I would advise to spend more money and get a good mobile rig like FT7800, FT8800, TM-V71A if you want a dual band radio. An Icom IC-V8000 is probably the best choice if you want a rigid 75W 2m mobile rig. Whatever you get, make sure it has a cooling fan. It seems that the consensus is to forget an amp for the HT and go with a dedicated portable mobile rig. How would I know if the mobile has a low duty cycle? I'm thinking the V71 is the ticket. I'd second (third?) that antenna beats power and add antenna plus height. While this is widely true it's even more true at VHF and UHF frequencies. In most cases, and especially with 2m FM, at a reasonable level of power if the propagation channel isn't there you aren't going to bore a hole with more power. The TM-V71A is a very nice radio. I just went through the research for a new VHF mobile and it boiled down to the TM-V71A and the Icom IC-V8000. I went with the V8000 as there is little to no 440 activity in my area so I didn't need that band and the V8000 is $160 less. I'm very happy with the V8000. It's my first new VHF mobile in over 30 years. It does everything that I need it to do and does it very well. The only feature I wish it had would be the ability to remote the head. No big deal. It wasn't worth another $200 to move to the 880H. The V8000 is actually about half the size of my other VHF rigs which are all from the late 70's through the 80's. I'd also second the HF notion but that may well include a bunch of other expense and a potential license upgrade. Don't discount the other modes on VHF (2m specifically.) There's a lot more to do there than just FM. If you want a wee bit of adventure consider getting an all-mode 2m rig. Unfortunately there aren't any 2m all-mode rigs currently made other than those that are part of HF rigs. You can however find nice used 2m all-modes like the Kenwood TR-9000, TR-9130, TM-255, TR-751A, etc. There's a good list here: http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hammdisc.html . 2m SSB is a lot of fun as is CW. The aforementioned better antenna and height still apply but power to a lesser degree with modes other than FM. You can work a lot weaker signal with SSB and CW than with FM. This opens up some possibilities. Back to VHF FM...if you want\need dual-band get the TM-V71A. If you don't need 440 get the IC-V8000. But I'm a Kenwood and ICOM guy!  73. |
|
Quoted:
I'd second (third?) that antenna beats power and add antenna plus height. While this is widely true it's even more true at VHF and UHF frequencies. In most cases, and especially with 2m FM, at a reasonable level of power if the propagation channel isn't there you aren't going to bore a hole with more power. The TM-V71A is a very nice radio. I just went through the research for a new VHF mobile and it boiled down to the TM-V71A and the Icom IC-V8000. I went with the V8000 as there is little to no 440 activity in my area so I didn't need that band and the V8000 is $160 less. I'm very happy with the V8000. It's my first new VHF mobile in over 30 years. It does everything that I need it to do and does it very well. The only feature I wish it had would be the ability to remote the head. No big deal. It wasn't worth another $200 to move to the 880H. The V8000 is actually about half the size of my other VHF rigs which are all from the late 70's through the 80's. I'd also second the HF notion but that may well include a bunch of other expense and a potential license upgrade. Don't discount the other modes on VHF (2m specifically.) There's a lot more to do there than just FM. If you want a wee bit of adventure consider getting an all-mode 2m rig. Unfortunately there aren't any 2m all-mode rigs currently made other than those that are part of HF rigs. You can however find nice used 2m all-modes like the Kenwood TR-9000, TR-9130, TM-255, TR-751A, etc. There's a good list here: http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hammdisc.html . 2m SSB is a lot of fun as is CW. The aforementioned better antenna and height still apply but power to a lesser degree with modes other than FM. You can work a lot weaker signal with SSB and CW than with FM. This opens up some possibilities. Back to VHF FM...if you want\need dual-band get the TM-V71A. If you don't need 440 get the IC-V8000. But I'm a Kenwood and ICOM guy!
73. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I can talk 20 miles flat farmland, with an HT 1w and Diamond X 50's on each roof. Antenna trumps watts +1000000000 You'd be surprised what you can do with 5 Watts and a good mobile antenna. Of course, a 50W mobile rig will do better if you are willing to spend money. Beware that cheap mobile radios like FT2900 or TM-281 have very low TX duty cycle. They get very hot and may shut off if you transmit at high power for more than 5 minutes or have a long raw chew at high power setting. Also TM-281 has no squelch adjustment knob which I found terribly inconvenient when talking to other stations on simplex. I would advise to spend more money and get a good mobile rig like FT7800, FT8800, TM-V71A if you want a dual band radio. An Icom IC-V8000 is probably the best choice if you want a rigid 75W 2m mobile rig. Whatever you get, make sure it has a cooling fan. It seems that the consensus is to forget an amp for the HT and go with a dedicated portable mobile rig. How would I know if the mobile has a low duty cycle? I'm thinking the V71 is the ticket. I'd second (third?) that antenna beats power and add antenna plus height. While this is widely true it's even more true at VHF and UHF frequencies. In most cases, and especially with 2m FM, at a reasonable level of power if the propagation channel isn't there you aren't going to bore a hole with more power. The TM-V71A is a very nice radio. I just went through the research for a new VHF mobile and it boiled down to the TM-V71A and the Icom IC-V8000. I went with the V8000 as there is little to no 440 activity in my area so I didn't need that band and the V8000 is $160 less. I'm very happy with the V8000. It's my first new VHF mobile in over 30 years. It does everything that I need it to do and does it very well. The only feature I wish it had would be the ability to remote the head. No big deal. It wasn't worth another $200 to move to the 880H. The V8000 is actually about half the size of my other VHF rigs which are all from the late 70's through the 80's. I'd also second the HF notion but that may well include a bunch of other expense and a potential license upgrade. Don't discount the other modes on VHF (2m specifically.) There's a lot more to do there than just FM. If you want a wee bit of adventure consider getting an all-mode 2m rig. Unfortunately there aren't any 2m all-mode rigs currently made other than those that are part of HF rigs. You can however find nice used 2m all-modes like the Kenwood TR-9000, TR-9130, TM-255, TR-751A, etc. There's a good list here: http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hammdisc.html . 2m SSB is a lot of fun as is CW. The aforementioned better antenna and height still apply but power to a lesser degree with modes other than FM. You can work a lot weaker signal with SSB and CW than with FM. This opens up some possibilities. Back to VHF FM...if you want\need dual-band get the TM-V71A. If you don't need 440 get the IC-V8000. But I'm a Kenwood and ICOM guy!
73. My HT has CW and SSB receive modes. I've tried it but not heard anything. I guess I'm going to put some antennas on the roof and give all the modes some play. The TM-V71A looks like the one I want because of the cross-band and the dual-band. The documentation and quality of my HT are very good, so I'd like to stick with the brand. I've got a general ticket and I've been studying for the extra, but I found I've been getting a lot out of building and experimenting and reading about people who do. HF will come soon, just not yet. I can only spend so much of my kids' college money at one time. |
|
You'll likely need more than a rubber duck, or a j-pole, or groundplane for all mode reception (SSB and CW) plus the change in polarization from vertical to horizontal isn't helping but you don't need stacked 13 element yagis at 50 feet to have some fun with 2m SSB. I use an Elk Antenna ( http://www.elkantennas.com/ ) 2M/440 MHz Five Element Log Periodic mounted on some PVC at about 20 feet and use my hand to rotate it. The antennas are pretty well regarded ( http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/4348 ) and relatively inexpensive (about $125). I've had one up for about 7-8 years and it performs very well. Using my old TR-9000 if conditions are right I've worked stations around 150 miles from my QTH with 10 watts. Obviously that's not all the time but that's the fun of this hobby. If you really need to talk to someone you'll pick up the phone.If you haven't seen it yet, if you want to see some inspiring builds check out Dave Richards site, AA7EE ( https://aa7ee.wordpress.com/ ). He does some very nice work and puts up a lot of detail in his posts. His builds are both technically and aesthetically pleasing. 73. |
|
...forgot to add...don't discount QRP. It has a very low cost of entry for HF operation especially if you like to build. There are a bunch of radios to build. Get copies of Doug DeMaw's (W1FB) QRP books for ideas. They show up on eBay from time-to-time. If you don't have one I'd highly recommend a RockMite. I've got a couple of them. They are fun to build and operate and will get you on HF for $50 plus an antenna (wire works fine.) Small Wonder Labs just closed up shop a year ago but K1SWL transferred the RockMite line to W1REX ( http://www.qrpme.com/ ). For $50 and an Altoid tin you are on the air. Take a RockMite, an EmTech ZM-2 tuner ( emtech.steadynet.com/zm2.shtml ), your favorite wire antenna, and a battery and you are on the air. 73. |
|
If you like to build, check out the Elecraft K1. The basic 2-band radio is $300. Options for other bands are available, as is an internal ATU and other goodies.
I'm in the middle of a 40/20 Meter build right now and it's going together nicely. It's definitely for an experienced builder, though. ETA: The four-band module in currently unavailable. You could buy an additional two-band module, but swapping modules involves removing the cover and ATU (if installed), then swapping modules. As for your VHF problem, I put a "copper cactus" 2 Meter J-pole on my chimney and used my Icom IC-2AT handi-talkie to work packet and reliably access repeaters within a 30 mile radius. YMMV. |
|
Quoted:
I get 440 repeaters in Philly that have a lot of traffic with almost no mention of bunions or early-bird specials. I frequently go into parking garages with my truck. Even a 20" antenna would hit. Is yours a quick-disconnect of some sort? which one? I'll have to meet you on there sometime |
|
Quoted:
If you like to build, check out the Elecraft K1. The basic 2-band radio is $300. Options for other bands are available, as is an internal ATU and other goodies. I'm in the middle of a 40/20 Meter build right now and it's going together nicely. It's definitely for an experienced builder, though. ETA: The four-band module in currently unavailable. You could buy an additional two-band module, but swapping modules involves removing the cover and ATU (if installed), then swapping modules. As for your VHF problem, I put a "copper cactus" 2 Meter J-pole on my chimney and used my Icom IC-2AT handi-talkie to work packet and reliably access repeaters within a 30 mile radius. YMMV. I've played with an RXTX Ensemble, but I haven't managed to get signal yet. Now that after-school activities have died down, I'll have more time to work on it. |
|
Quoted:
which one? I'll have to meet you on there sometime Quoted:
Quoted:
I get 440 repeaters in Philly that have a lot of traffic with almost no mention of bunions or early-bird specials. I frequently go into parking garages with my truck. Even a 20" antenna would hit. Is yours a quick-disconnect of some sort? which one? I'll have to meet you on there sometime I get W3WAN on 442.250, UPenn's N3KZ on 442.400 and W3SBE on 442.550 consistently. Now and again, I get W3DI on 442.250 and K3DN on 443.950. |
|
Quoted:
(trimmed) ... I bought a Kenwood TH-F6A HT for my first radio. I can hear, but I can't talk with only 5 watts. (trimmed) This is why I don't recommend HTs to new hams. It is like trying to teach a new musician to play using a poor condition instrument that even a pro can't play. HTs are very limited. Fine for what they do, but limited. And I do NOT recommend a mobile rig, either. A new ham has enough to cope with learning how to operate a less than intuitive radio and learning how to operate (himself) on the air. This kind of driving distraction could be dangerous to the new ham and every other driver on the road. First station should be a base station, whether VHF/UHF for a new Tech (or any higher class new ham), or HF for a General or Extra. The idea of swapping the radio between home station and the car just does not work out well. Just get another radio for the car, same model as the base. Program it with the exact same repeaters, everything identical between the home and car rigs, except program all channels for High power for the car. For the base program for the least power that gives "full quieting" signal reports. For cars, the antenna is lower, the car is moving, and more power will be required. The car may be driven further from the repeater. And it is easy enough to learn to reduce power as needed if close to a repeater. |
|
Quoted:
I get W3WAN on 442.250, UPenn's N3KZ on 442.400 and W3SBE on 442.550 consistently. Now and again, I get W3DI on 442.250 and K3DN on 443.950. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I get 440 repeaters in Philly that have a lot of traffic with almost no mention of bunions or early-bird specials. I frequently go into parking garages with my truck. Even a 20" antenna would hit. Is yours a quick-disconnect of some sort? which one? I'll have to meet you on there sometime I get W3WAN on 442.250, UPenn's N3KZ on 442.400 and W3SBE on 442.550 consistently. Now and again, I get W3DI on 442.250 and K3DN on 443.950. Awesome - I usually have them on but don't talk much You only have the HT right? |
|
Quoted:
This is why I don't recommend HTs to new hams. It is like trying to teach a new musician to play using a poor condition instrument that even a pro can't play. HTs are very limited. Fine for what they do, but limited. And I do NOT recommend a mobile rig, either. A new ham has enough to cope with learning how to operate a less than intuitive radio and learning how to operate (himself) on the air. This kind of driving distraction could be dangerous to the new ham and every other driver on the road. First station should be a base station, whether VHF/UHF for a new Tech (or any higher class new ham), or HF for a General or Extra. The idea of swapping the radio between home station and the car just does not work out well. Just get another radio for the car, same model as the base. Program it with the exact same repeaters, everything identical between the home and car rigs, except program all channels for High power for the car. For the base program for the least power that gives "full quieting" signal reports. For cars, the antenna is lower, the car is moving, and more power will be required. The car may be driven further from the repeater. And it is easy enough to learn to reduce power as needed if close to a repeater. Quoted:
Quoted:
(trimmed) ... I bought a Kenwood TH-F6A HT for my first radio. I can hear, but I can't talk with only 5 watts. (trimmed) This is why I don't recommend HTs to new hams. It is like trying to teach a new musician to play using a poor condition instrument that even a pro can't play. HTs are very limited. Fine for what they do, but limited. And I do NOT recommend a mobile rig, either. A new ham has enough to cope with learning how to operate a less than intuitive radio and learning how to operate (himself) on the air. This kind of driving distraction could be dangerous to the new ham and every other driver on the road. First station should be a base station, whether VHF/UHF for a new Tech (or any higher class new ham), or HF for a General or Extra. The idea of swapping the radio between home station and the car just does not work out well. Just get another radio for the car, same model as the base. Program it with the exact same repeaters, everything identical between the home and car rigs, except program all channels for High power for the car. For the base program for the least power that gives "full quieting" signal reports. For cars, the antenna is lower, the car is moving, and more power will be required. The car may be driven further from the repeater. And it is easy enough to learn to reduce power as needed if close to a repeater. Agree. I don't see an issue with his idea of getting a BD-35 and running a proper base antenna like an X-50 on his roof. I think he will get a lot of use out of that setup which will fuel his desire to learn. I cringe with the recommendation for the roll up j-poles to newbies. I almost exclusively advise mobile radio - run of LMR-400 - X-50 or GP-3 antenna for a new ham. And for god sake don't install the antenna in the attic. |
|
Quoted:
Awesome - I usually have them on but don't talk much You only have the HT right? Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I get 440 repeaters in Philly that have a lot of traffic with almost no mention of bunions or early-bird specials. I frequently go into parking garages with my truck. Even a 20" antenna would hit. Is yours a quick-disconnect of some sort? which one? I'll have to meet you on there sometime I get W3WAN on 442.250, UPenn's N3KZ on 442.400 and W3SBE on 442.550 consistently. Now and again, I get W3DI on 442.250 and K3DN on 443.950. Awesome - I usually have them on but don't talk much You only have the HT right? At the moment, yes. What's your call? I may have heard you and awptickes, I just don't know it. Thanks for all the responses. KC3DOU |
|
Quoted:
As for your VHF problem, I put a "copper cactus" 2 Meter J-pole on my chimney and used my Icom IC-2AT handi-talkie to work packet and reliably access repeaters within a 30 mile radius. YMMV. Same here. At home (back in the day) I used a IC-2AT and a second hand ARX-2 Ringo at about 20' AGLand pretty much worked what I could hear. And the 2AT as you know, is 1.5 Watts on high power. I even bought a Mirage brick amp for the 2AT but I never needed it so I sold it. But that was the promise of 2M FM (again, back in the day) - that high power was not needed to cover repeaters within a reasonable distance, and I think physics hasn't changed all that much. There is always the disclaimer YMMV but I come from an area with a lot of valleys and hollers to get out from too and still, antenna choice was more important than Watts (in fact from in a hole, sometimes more uptilt from a lesser gain like a 1/2 wave or 1/4 wave works better than the sharper horizontal beam of a 5/8 or a collinear). |