Posted: 7/17/2014 5:55:48 AM EDT
| I see the spec of 11kg (24.25lbs) all over the internet, but can anyone here confirm the weight of the radio all by itself, without any of the misc. accessories that are usually included in the overall weight. Would be interested in seeing the stand-alone weight of the PRC-319 as well. I've been thinking a manpack would be fun to play with (now that I don't HAVE to carry them anymore), but if this thing really weighs 24 lbs I may focus on weatherproofing a smaller and lighter commercial radio. Thanks! |
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Fromhttp://www.cadetsignals.org.uk/?page_id=410 |
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The BASE clansman 320 RT unit is 11lbs IIRC Add to that the NiCd battery which is 6-7lbs, Then whatever audio and antennas you are gonna carry. Figure the whip weights 1.5-2lbs with its goosneck. And maybe the same for the dipole spools/center. If you don't carry the whole kitchen sink it isn't anywhere near 24 lbs... If you take the time and mod the battery pack to use a 7s lithium batt, it only weighs like a pound. So you can get the pack weight under 15lbs.
319 is 7lbs for the RT, then another 3 for the tuner so about the same as the 320. Then roughly the same weights for the battery/ancillaires. And I highly do not recommend the 319 as a first radio since you cannot tune it on the ham bands, and thus you will seldom make contacts. General rule of thumb for most manpacks is with NiCd batts they will weigh in just under 20lbs with ancils. And under 15lbs with lithium batts. The more modern stuff doesn't really weigh all that much less than the 70's stuff, maybe a few lbs. Historically, weight on manpacks dropped from the 50's and 60's, and mostly stabilized by the 70s. The reason being is that they started to dramatically expand the capabilities of radios in favor of saving weight after the 70's/80s. If you want a truly light weight manpack look at VX1210, 20W, 7lbs with the battery. |
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Oh I understand about saving weight I try to make any manpack setups I have as lightweight as possible since I'm using them 12-14,000' ASL and let me assure you hauling that shit up the side of the mountain even stripped to the minimum is no fun.
Comparing the 319 vs a 320 "might" save you a pound if you strip out the data unit and the extended tuner from the 319 and I'm not even sure its that much. For ham/regular use the 320 is a much better unit IMO since you can actually find someone else to talk to with it. The 319 was designed for SAS use, and at the time, they needed a unit that could receive without being detected, and burst transmit data with a very low chance of intercept and DF. Those things the 319 does very well. It was also designed with programmable frequencies in mind, in the real world you got handed a sheet of frequencies and times to use them to make commo back with HQ. Again something the 319 does very well as it can T/R on different frequencies. What it does not do well is work in "ham mode" as I mentioned it is a fixed frequency radio, meaning you have to program each frequency you plan to use in it. It takes about a minute per frequency, and it stores 9. You WILL NOT TUNE AROUND a band with a 319. It can be used in a fashion to call CQ on a fixed freq (which works with varying degrees of success). To effectively use a 319 as a ham radio you will need a second qrp HAM radio for receive. I use a. Ft817 on conjunction with the 319, which makes the setup heavier (817 is about 3 lbs). I find stations to talk to using the 817, then punch in the frequency on the 319, and switch over the antenna and TX. Its fairly cumbersome to do. Also the 319 was never designed to be used on the move with the whip. The 319 whip setup sucks as it was an afterthought for the design. The 319 was to be used with wire antennas (which it does well). When I use the 319 I typically schlep a buddipole with it as well adding to the weight (I forget maybe 5-7lbs). Also, another fun "operators" note: on high power the 319 loves to feedback into its audio stream (radio was primarily designed with burst data in mind, not voice) Like I said for lightweight look at a vx1210, for cheap look at 320 which was designed for Voice comms. Alternatively I "think" the KX3 can be ruggedized enough for use, but I don't have one. You give up some transmit power, durability, waterproofing, and finally it sounds like they get sent back to the factory fairly often for repairs. Also, I'm curious as to where there is a 319 for sale to folks in the US, the guys in the UK won't send 319's here. |
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After body armor, food, water, weapon, ammo, survival gear, radio, batteries, and other mission essential equipment, if I'm still trying to shave off a pound or two, then so be it, call me Shirley... Welcome to the forum, Shirley! |
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Get an 817 I like the 817, but it is severely limited when it comes to HF voice ops IMO, unless conditions are really good. If your main OP mode is CW or data its ok. Its not particularly durable or waterproof either. Given the choice I think the KX3 or IC703 are a better way to go for QRP rigs. |
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The BASE clansman 320 RT unit is 11lbs IIRC Add to that the NiCd battery which is 6-7lbs, Then whatever audio and antennas you are gonna carry. Figure the whip weights 1.5-2lbs with its goosneck. And maybe the same for the dipole spools/center. If you don't carry the whole kitchen sink it isn't anywhere near 24 lbs... If you take the time and mod the battery pack to use a 7s lithium batt, it only weighs like a pound. So you can get the pack weight under 15lbs. 319 is 7lbs for the RT, then another 3 for the tuner so about the same as the 320. Then roughly the same weights for the battery/ancillaires. And I highly do not recommend the 319 as a first radio since you cannot tune it on the ham bands, and thus you will seldom make contacts. General rule of thumb for most manpacks is with NiCd batts they will weigh in just under 20lbs with ancils. And under 15lbs with lithium batts. The more modern stuff doesn't really weigh all that much less than the 70's stuff, maybe a few lbs. Historically, weight on manpacks dropped from the 50's and 60's, and mostly stabilized by the 70s. The reason being is that they started to dramatically expand the capabilities of radios in favor of saving weight after the 70's/80s. If you want a truly light weight manpack look at VX1210, 20W, 7lbs with the battery. You can outfit a company with PRC320's (one per plt) for the cost........2100 dollars |
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You can outfit a company with PRC320's (one per plt) for the cost........2100 dollars Quoted:
Quoted:
The BASE clansman 320 RT unit is 11lbs IIRC Add to that the NiCd battery which is 6-7lbs, Then whatever audio and antennas you are gonna carry. Figure the whip weights 1.5-2lbs with its goosneck. And maybe the same for the dipole spools/center. If you don't carry the whole kitchen sink it isn't anywhere near 24 lbs... If you take the time and mod the battery pack to use a 7s lithium batt, it only weighs like a pound. So you can get the pack weight under 15lbs. 319 is 7lbs for the RT, then another 3 for the tuner so about the same as the 320. Then roughly the same weights for the battery/ancillaires. And I highly do not recommend the 319 as a first radio since you cannot tune it on the ham bands, and thus you will seldom make contacts. General rule of thumb for most manpacks is with NiCd batts they will weigh in just under 20lbs with ancils. And under 15lbs with lithium batts. The more modern stuff doesn't really weigh all that much less than the 70's stuff, maybe a few lbs. Historically, weight on manpacks dropped from the 50's and 60's, and mostly stabilized by the 70s. The reason being is that they started to dramatically expand the capabilities of radios in favor of saving weight after the 70's/80s. If you want a truly light weight manpack look at VX1210, 20W, 7lbs with the battery. You can outfit a company with PRC320's (one per plt) for the cost........2100 dollars Absolutely correct... Though the prices I've seen are more like 1500 for the VX1210... But dude said he wanted lightweight. |
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What did that battery pack run and can you recharge it with the generator? 50 bucks or so. You need to buy a lithium battery charger for another 50 or so on the cheap side (7s chargers are more expensive than the cheaper 4s ones). The charger will run of 12V DC ish, I forget the actual spec but its moderately wide 10-18V maybe. So long as your genny/solar setup will put out 12VDC at at least 1A (more preferred) you can recharge the pack. I have multiple packs so it usually works out fine. The super nice thing about the LiPo is that you can charge it at a high 2-3C rate with no problem. So very quick charging. Also they offer absurd discharge rates (25-30C). The super not-so-nice thing about the LiPo is that after you are done using it you have to "storage" charge/discharge it to a specified voltage (mid range/capacity). The also super not so nice thing about the LiPo is that you should never discharge the cells below 3V per cell (~21V) on a 7s cell (or 12V on a 4S cell 9V on a 3S cell). I have a low voltage alarm that I usually run in conjunction with it that isn't pictured. Since most of my milpacks don't actually have a low battery alarm that I can use with that pack (if they do it kicks in at 18-20V). |

