Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:

Well, she’s back in OH with my dad. Over the course of his medical issues she adopted him and I didn’t have the heart to separate them 😢. She’ll stay there and I’ll look for another eventually.

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:
I knows it's been a bit since I updated pics..... I did insulate the the roof and the loft. I put r19 in between the rafters in the loft then slid 1 1/2" foam board between the fly and canvas up front.

I also put the deck down in the front area of the cabin.  I used a weed torch and charred it, then scrubbed it down. I will be sealing it but I like the way it turned out. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/4361616A-FB44-43D4-989B-65E73B9D2CDF_jpeg-1113322.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/29CA7283-E93B-4517-9D50-65C552F04189_jpeg-1113323.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/EC830895-99B8-4084-94A8-F48B0C823092_jpeg-1113324.JPG

I am also going to look at a wood burning cook stove today. I decided I don't have enough time right now to try the rocket mass heater as it will take a lot of trial and error so I will save that one for my next project.

Originally Posted By ColtRifle:
My uncle tried to heat his cabin with a wood cook stove years ago. From what I noticed, the wood cook stove didn't have a very large firebox so it ended up not working very well to heat his house. It had to be fed small wood constantly and wouldn't maintain a fire for more than a couple hours.

With the ease of access to propane today, I'd go with a traditional wood stove since it'll hold a wood load for a long time compared to a cook stove and cook on propane.

Originally Posted By pcsutton:
I cooked on a Majestic wood cook stove for a number of years. The tastiest bread and biscuits you ever tasted come out of a wood cook stove.

Mine had the upper warming ovens and a hot water add on. The best part is I got it for helping a buddy buck 10 acres of hay bales.

It was really close to this:
https://proxy.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fmedia.discoverstuff.com%2Fimg%2Flistings%2Fkn%2Fknauss6%2Flisting_pic_1210733_1463856724.jpeg&f=1&nofb=1

You'll love having one. Be sure you get triple wall flue pipe to go through whatever ceiling or wall you end up going through. Needs a flue damper too.

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:
Well, the wood cook stove, that I picked up for $250 on Craigslist has exceeded my expectations so far. It took me a day to learn it’s secrets and all I can say is wow! The small wood box is actually perfect for my cabin. It keeps the fire smaller and more manageable. As it is I have a hard time keeping the temp in the cabin below 75’ when it’s burning, and last night I loaded it at 9 pm, went to bed, and by midnight it Was a little warmer than I like. At 5 am it was 58 in the cabin ( 20’) outside and I still had a nice coal bed to start the morning......

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/CAB737A8-3B74-4F90-B819-9E1E16A008C4_jpeg-1119307.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/48EA6F24-986D-446B-A681-1D03F462ACDB_jpeg-1119308.JPG

Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:

That's awesome!

Never seen a stove like that before.

Really glad it's doing what you need it to.  No cookstove I've EVER seen had a firebox large enough to hold coals overnight.

I'm gonna pick at something...I hope there is more than that sheet of galvanized metal between your stove and the wood framing/insulation behind it.

Even if it's a sheet of drywall, it's worth putting something ELSE behind that metal.  The metal can get really hot, and you dont want your framing and the insulation getting hot. I don't know what the rules say, but for me, that would not be enough to feel safe.

Drywall is cheap and easy, and not particularly fire-friendly.  I don't want you to die in a fire.

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/0B282BCF-8466-4A80-A124-286962A80204_jpeg-1120386.JPG

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/85DC1872-8CDB-46B8-9356-78CCB5E0BB0C_jpeg-1120387.JPG

I put a layer of concrete backer board and the corrugated sheets have 1” air gap.

Originally Posted By NotMrWizard:
Dang, how did I not see this thread until now? This is great!

I'm envious of what you're doing, David. A lot of respect for you guys and girls who can do this.

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:
Finally got my DIY Berkey water filter put together.....

Bought the filters and spout on Amazon for $140 and the two 16 qt pots came from Walmart for $11 each....
So I basically have a 4 gallon Berkey filter ($350-400) for $150!!!

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/15469154-1CBD-4B66-8D67-A42B65D01FD7_jpeg-1123698.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/DA32A587-6EB4-4DCB-8A1E-20F8BBC01860_jpeg-1123699.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/8D7BAE41-10C7-4E45-9752-1B122275BAC3_jpeg-1123700.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/D2783E6F-DA6C-4295-8D4C-611F66A1EC19_jpeg-1125034.JPG

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:
Finally got my DIY Berkey water filter put together.....

Bought the filters and spout on Amazon for $140 and the two 16 qt pots came from Walmart for $11 each....
So I basically have a 4 gallon Berkey filter ($350-400) for $150!!!

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/15469154-1CBD-4B66-8D67-A42B65D01FD7_jpeg-1123698.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/DA32A587-6EB4-4DCB-8A1E-20F8BBC01860_jpeg-1123699.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/8D7BAE41-10C7-4E45-9752-1B122275BAC3_jpeg-1123700.JPGhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/D2783E6F-DA6C-4295-8D4C-611F66A1EC19_jpeg-1125034.JPG

Originally Posted By pcsutton:
Just a thought, you might want to consider getting one more of those pots to keep on your stove for both hot water and as a humidifier.

I found that adding a little humidity to the air makes the heat seem to go a little farther.

Even though my cook stove had a hot water jacket, I always kept a kettle of water on the top just because the added humidity always made my cabin feel warmer.

Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:



When you get a break from work, tell more about that?

Originally Posted By dryflash3:
You did good on that stove, glad it's working out.

Were you able to gather enough wood for the winter?

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:

As of now I only have a cord of burns me wood, however, I have plenty of standing dead to get me through the winter.... I can cut and spit about a weeks worth of wood in a day so I will be busy, but able to keep my wood stocked. I also have about three cords of fresh cut wood at the moment curing for next year, and plenty more to cut as well.

I also found some great compressed sawdust logs that fit my firebox perfectly and burn for a about 4-5 hours for $1.19 each so I use them at night or when I am gonna be away from the cabin.

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:

List of material:

2 Mainstay 16 qt stainless steel stock pots ( with stainless steel lid) These are cheap and very thin stainless steel. They stink for cooking but are perfect for the water filter. About $12-15 each

2 Berkey replacement filters .... got mine from Amazon $120 With Prime....

Aqua crest filter  $74.99

Berkey filters $128.99

Stainless steel spigot.... $25 on Amazon with Prime

Stainless spigot $15.99

On the upper pot drill two 3/8” holes for the filters to go in.
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/FA872213-40EF-41D4-8A73-B991388A6D00_jpeg-1126373.JPG

On the lower pot drill a 5/8” hole on the front of the pot for the spigot. Leave at least 1/2” below spigot to bottom of pot.
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/A9DD8C4A-8A7E-4F0D-85E8-89DEFD37D89C_jpeg-1126376.JPG

Take one of the lids and while following the bevel, cut the center ( handle ) out of the lid using tin snips or a bubbler leaving about 1 1/2” to the outside edge. Using two sided tape affix the lid to the bottom of the filter pot so it can rest on top of the filtered water pot with spigot. I also used food safe silicone to seal the lid to the bottom of the pot.

I hope that gives you the info you need....

Originally Posted By kill-9:
Any news?

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:
I also started my back deck and generator house on the back of my cabin as well. Although I don’t have pics of that yet.... will edit them in later.

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:

Nah, I’m still here.... I have been helping my neighbor with the foundation for his new home build the last week....there is a small quarry adjacent to our properties that we have been getting rock/ gravel from for it.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/0F5877EB-7931-4D32-B871-9EC8D4A2FFEC_jpeg-1152061.JPG

When not helping the neighbor, I finished my shower basin...... a 4’ water trough that I tiled to help drain better. I also re purposed the ramp from my trailer for a front porch on my cabin.
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/73D2C560-2B84-4AFA-A776-EE2E62EE15D1_jpeg-1152055.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/C0F92FFD-D3F8-437E-92F9-D24B40369479_jpeg-1152066.JPG

I also have been clearing trees around my cabin. Any tree that is within striking distance is coming out. The big logs are being stage to go to the neighbor mill ( board and batten siding) and additional lumber for future projects. All other wood is being buck up for fire wood.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/D0AD3279-4AFC-46AD-AD01-86A835F2056C_jpeg-1152058.JPG

Originally Posted By Davidrw5150:

Nah, I’m still here.... I have been helping my neighbor with the foundation for his new home build the last week....there is a small quarry adjacent to our properties that we have been getting rock/ gravel from for it.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/0F5877EB-7931-4D32-B871-9EC8D4A2FFEC_jpeg-1152061.JPG

When not helping the neighbor, I finished my shower basin...... a 4’ water trough that I tiled to help drain better. I also re purposed the ramp from my trailer for a front porch on my cabin.
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/73D2C560-2B84-4AFA-A776-EE2E62EE15D1_jpeg-1152055.JPG
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/C0F92FFD-D3F8-437E-92F9-D24B40369479_jpeg-1152066.JPG

I also have been clearing trees around my cabin. Any tree that is within striking distance is coming out. The big logs are being stage to go to the neighbor mill ( board and batten siding) and additional lumber for future projects. All other wood is being buck up for fire wood.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384426/D0AD3279-4AFC-46AD-AD01-86A835F2056C_jpeg-1152058.JPG

Originally Posted By Talyn:

Considering the density of the forest in those pics, and that wildfires are a clear and present danger in the Intermountain West I'd take a look at clearing things off more using the Defendable Space recommendations in these docs, references, etc.

Defensible Space - FEMA

Wildfire Defensible Space Checklists

Defensible Space - What is a defensible space?

Defensible space is the area between a house and an oncoming wildfire where the vegetation has been modified to reduce the wildfire threat and to provide an opportunity for firefighters to effectively defend the house.

The Three R's of Defensible Space
1) Removal: This technique involves the elimination of entire plants, particularly trees and shrubs, from the site. Examples of removal are cutting down a dead tree or cutting out a flammable shrub.

2) Reduction: The removal of plant parts, such as branches or leaves, constitute reduction. Examples of reduction are pruning dead wood from a shrub, removing low tree branches, and mowing dried grass.

3) Replacement: Replacement is substituting less flammable plants for more hazardous vegetation. Removal of a dense stand of flammable shrubs and planting an irrigated, well maintained flower bed is an example of replacement.

FIRE ZONES FOR WOODLAND HOMES

ZONE 1: 5 FEET FROM THE HOUSE

This area, closest to the house, is the most critical for fire protection. Have nothing flammable next to the house, including tall grass, evergreen trees and shrubs, trees that overhang the house or deck, leaves, brush, firewood piles, bark, mulch and other burnables. Clean gutters, roof and deck of flammable debris. This zone does not have to be barren. Maintain a well-kept lawn, or use crushed brick or river stone gravel instead of mulch. Use raised beds, large decorative rocks, stone walkways, patios, or other features to create visual interest while maintaining a fuel break for forest fire safety.

ZONE 2: 10 FEET FROM THE HOUSE

Maintain a well-kept lawn and avoid evergreens that catch fire easily and burn quickly. Occasional trees and shrubs should be at least 10 feet from the house. Space trees with 10-15 feet between tree crowns and prune trees 10-15 feet up from the ground.

A pond or swimming pool can act as both a firebreak and an emergency water supply for firefighters. Freshly tended flower beds, herb or vegetable gardens, rock gardens, stone walls and driveways can also act as firebreaks. Avoid "fire ladders" that allow fire to climb from the ground into tree branches. Do this by pruning trees, spacing tall trees away from medium-sized trees and by using ground covers or small plants under tall trees.

ZONE 3: 30-100 FEET FROM THE HOUSE

Rake or use a leaf blower to remove leaves and twigs at least 30 feet from the house and up to 100 feet on the downhill side. If you live in a pine forest, maintain a safety zone at least 75 feet on all sides of the house. Firewood and other burnables should be stored at least 30 feet from the house to help keep fire from spreading to or from your house. It also provides a space for firefighters to defend your house from fire.
Prune and thin trees so there are no dense stands or tree tops touching. Keep shrubs small, maintained, and free of dead materials. Control brush and weeds annually. Steep areas can be terraced to slow down wildfires. A stone wall can also act as a fire barrier on very steep slopes.

THE HOUSE: BUILD WITH FIRE IN MIND

Build your house on a level location. Houses overhanging steep slopes are very vulnerable to forest fires. Enclose any open space underneath decks with screen to prevent embers from entering. Use fire resistant building material for both the siding and the roof. Avoid wood shake roofs for woodland homes. Make sure firefighters can find and reach your home.

The Firescape - A home in a woodland setting is usually surrounded by forest fire fuel and is in real danger if a wildfire is on the loose.

Firewise - Landscaping can create a line of defense against the threat of wildfire by creating a safety zone or defensible space around your home.
The goal is to break the chain of flammable fuel between your home and the forest. Examine your yard. What can catch fire and carry this fire to the house?

Be Guided By Nature's Patterns - You can landscape for fire protection while maintaining a natural look to your surroundings. Work with the plants native to the site, using the pattern found in nature. Also, consider hardiness zones when choosing new plants. The placement of plants and trees is just as important as the species when planning fire safety.

All Plants Burn!

There are no fire proof plants, but some plants are more fire-retardant than others.

Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:

As a landscaper who does NOT live in a fire-prone area, this is REALLY interesting.  

I never thought of evergreens as being inherently more likely to burn, but I can see that, in dryer climates, the foliage would not have a lot of water as compared to deciduous plants, and in winter there is a lot "more" of an evergreen than a plant that has dropped its leaves.

You know, you can live your whole life and you can learn a lot, but you never learn it all, even about one subject.

Originally Posted By Talyn:

Considering the density of the forest in those pics, and that wildfires are a clear and present danger in the Intermountain West I'd take a look at clearing things off more using the Defendable Space recommendations in these docs, references, etc.

Defensible Space - FEMA

Wildfire Defensible Space Checklists

Defensible Space - What is a defensible space?

Defensible space is the area between a house and an oncoming wildfire where the vegetation has been modified to reduce the wildfire threat and to provide an opportunity for firefighters to effectively defend the house.

The Three R's of Defensible Space
1) Removal: This technique involves the elimination of entire plants, particularly trees and shrubs, from the site. Examples of removal are cutting down a dead tree or cutting out a flammable shrub.

2) Reduction: The removal of plant parts, such as branches or leaves, constitute reduction. Examples of reduction are pruning dead wood from a shrub, removing low tree branches, and mowing dried grass.

3) Replacement: Replacement is substituting less flammable plants for more hazardous vegetation. Removal of a dense stand of flammable shrubs and planting an irrigated, well maintained flower bed is an example of replacement.

FIRE ZONES FOR WOODLAND HOMES

ZONE 1: 5 FEET FROM THE HOUSE

This area, closest to the house, is the most critical for fire protection. Have nothing flammable next to the house, including tall grass, evergreen trees and shrubs, trees that overhang the house or deck, leaves, brush, firewood piles, bark, mulch and other burnables. Clean gutters, roof and deck of flammable debris. This zone does not have to be barren. Maintain a well-kept lawn, or use crushed brick or river stone gravel instead of mulch. Use raised beds, large decorative rocks, stone walkways, patios, or other features to create visual interest while maintaining a fuel break for forest fire safety.

ZONE 2: 10 FEET FROM THE HOUSE

Maintain a well-kept lawn and avoid evergreens that catch fire easily and burn quickly. Occasional trees and shrubs should be at least 10 feet from the house. Space trees with 10-15 feet between tree crowns and prune trees 10-15 feet up from the ground.

A pond or swimming pool can act as both a firebreak and an emergency water supply for firefighters. Freshly tended flower beds, herb or vegetable gardens, rock gardens, stone walls and driveways can also act as firebreaks. Avoid "fire ladders" that allow fire to climb from the ground into tree branches. Do this by pruning trees, spacing tall trees away from medium-sized trees and by using ground covers or small plants under tall trees.

ZONE 3: 30-100 FEET FROM THE HOUSE

Rake or use a leaf blower to remove leaves and twigs at least 30 feet from the house and up to 100 feet on the downhill side. If you live in a pine forest, maintain a safety zone at least 75 feet on all sides of the house. Firewood and other burnables should be stored at least 30 feet from the house to help keep fire from spreading to or from your house. It also provides a space for firefighters to defend your house from fire.
Prune and thin trees so there are no dense stands or tree tops touching. Keep shrubs small, maintained, and free of dead materials. Control brush and weeds annually. Steep areas can be terraced to slow down wildfires. A stone wall can also act as a fire barrier on very steep slopes.

THE HOUSE: BUILD WITH FIRE IN MIND

Build your house on a level location. Houses overhanging steep slopes are very vulnerable to forest fires. Enclose any open space underneath decks with screen to prevent embers from entering. Use fire resistant building material for both the siding and the roof. Avoid wood shake roofs for woodland homes. Make sure firefighters can find and reach your home.

The Firescape - A home in a woodland setting is usually surrounded by forest fire fuel and is in real danger if a wildfire is on the loose.

Firewise - Landscaping can create a line of defense against the threat of wildfire by creating a safety zone or defensible space around your home.
The goal is to break the chain of flammable fuel between your home and the forest. Examine your yard. What can catch fire and carry this fire to the house?

Be Guided By Nature's Patterns - You can landscape for fire protection while maintaining a natural look to your surroundings. Work with the plants native to the site, using the pattern found in nature. Also, consider hardiness zones when choosing new plants. The placement of plants and trees is just as important as the species when planning fire safety.

All Plants Burn!

There are no fire proof plants, but some plants are more fire-retardant than others.