Posted: 1/29/2013 9:17:23 AM EDT
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Any advice, between a Stihl and a Husqvarna? I was looking at the Stihl MS290 Farm Boss, or the Husky 460 Rancher. I like the cylinder depressurization feature on the Husky, and it is a slightly bigger engine.
Any reason to go with one over the other? Thank you! |
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I used to own a tree trimming and removal company.
Ran Husky's alot. Great saws and the decompress feature is nice on their bigger saws. That said, both brands are super good and I would base my decision on price and availability of parts, service, etc. Neither will be a bad choice, especially for light/medium use. Just my .02 
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I heavily prefer Stihl.
Great airflow on it keeps the crap out of the filter and its tool free if it does get crud. Husky's I've used will get the job done just as nicely but they take bit longer to clean up and I dont like the catch screws on the filter covers. Goto Lowes and hold them too, see which feels best in your hands! |
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There seems to be quite a bit of regionality (word?) also. When I had my business in GA that's what most people ran. After getting back home to the great state of TEXAS.....I noticed that virtually everybody ran stihl. They are both damn good! Pitts Atta' boy. 
Welcome home! |
| I got to use both stihl and Husky's quite a bit working on seasonal fire crews, and IMO their both great. Base your decision on price, parts and service availability, and product reviews. I personally own a small Husky. I chose it because I live next door to a lowes and that's what they had, and the price wasn't bad. Good luck |
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Stihl is good, Husky is good (although I don't run them), and Dolmar/Makita is good. Anybody that says one is better than the other is judging on subjective criteria and it is only their opinion.
I have a Dolmar/Makita that was an ex-rental saw from Home Depot. It's a monster for a dirty cheap price, but it took me a year of calling Home-Depots all around to try to find one that was getting rid of a rental saw. I got it for $200 and it had a new bar & chain on it. I also have a Stihl MS170 that I muffler modded and carb-modded to make a little screamer that will eat stuff up. IMHO, it's the perfect little saw for cutting most wood. The muffler mod and carb mod give it enough power to pull hard in wood without limiting it's really high rpm (which equals lots of chain speed which means fast cutting). Because of it's light weight I almost prefer to use my MS170. I also only paid $75 for is plus $25 for the carb-mod. |
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Stihl
I have 4 saw's in the garage, Plus 2 weed whackers, And 2 back pack blowers, Gas powered drill, and edger. And other than a USED Husky Garden Tiller. I salvaged when a guy brought it back to TSC after starting it when it was NEW with no oil. It's all Stihl in my home. Nothing wrong with the Huskies, But you have to ask your self one question??? Why doesn't the big box stores sell Stihl's. Why?? I think because there a better made product. And not a throw away. |
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Nothing wrong with the Huskies, But you have to ask your self one question??? Why doesn't the big box stores sell Stihl's. Why?? I think because there a better made product. And not a throw away. But, then, why do the big box stores sell Echo saws? Every Echo sold has a longer life cycle than the consumer grade Stihls.
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I used to be a diehard Husqvarna fan. I've been disapointed lately with what I feel is a decrease in quality of Husky saws. I still think they are good quality but I think they are deteriorating from where they were.
I recently bought a couple of Echo saws and have been favorably impressed. They also have the best warranty for all saws....5 years for homeowner use. |
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I prefer Stihl primarily because they can oly be sold by servicing dealers.
Husky is good too, but, anyone can sell them. I have a modded 029/290. It really comes to life after a little work. I also have a 170 for toting around, as the 290 can get heavy after a while. That 170 really screams after getting worked on! |
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Thanks for all of the feedback!
I went with a Stihl MS360, used, but their professional grade and entirely gone over by a guy that restores them. Fortunately, finding him also means I have a local person to work on it without paying typical shop rates. It had a new bar, 2 new chains, and great compression. I liked the Husky's but based on the advice here, I can't find anyone locally that stocks them or works on them, so it was advantage Stihl! |
| I have run both and been around others who run both. My observations are the stihl saws will cut longer on a tank of fuel than the husky. The huskies tend to run out of bar oil quicker than fuel, which leads to overheating the bar. My husky leaks bar oil out while stored. It also doesn't crank well, even after it's been running. The stihl in my experience has been a better all around saw than the husky I have, and have been around. These huskies are newer, and I tend to agree about their quality decreasing lately. |
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I will never buy a Husky tool ever again.
I had a Husky 55 Rancher in which the threads that hold the spark plug sheared completely. The spark plug will not stay in. Obviously the metal they use in the engine head is pure shit. I called them and they refuse to replace/repair the saw even though it's only 3 years old. Lowe's refused to take it back. I got a Stihl 311. It's amazing. It also has the decompression feature. Never looking back. BTW, the local Stihl dealer was offering a one year extension on the warranty with the purchase of a 12 pack of Stihl branded bar cain oil. It may have been a national promotion. You might look into it. |
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If you have a stocking Husqvarna dealer and NOT one of the damn Box stores, there wont be much difference between the two brands except in a few of the pro saw lines.
Go with the dealer that you trust and can deal with first, then the saw. The MS291 and the Husky 460 are at the same price point for the same market, and both are proven and reliable homeowner cheapie saws. The one advantage with the Husqvarna is that you can find the 460 as "Refurbed" for around 350 bucks. Usually Lowes warranty returns, because Joe Homeowner just needed a saw after a storm. For a few bucks more, you could step up to the Huqvarna 550xp and have a pro saw that is lighter, more durable, auto tuning, and has more grunt than either the MS291 or 460. If you look around, there are leftover Husqvarna 359 still available for the same price or cheaper, than the 460 as well, and they are a hell of lot better saw than either, and in the pro saw construction category, as they share a common crank case with the 357XP, and only cylinder porting is different. I'll come out and say it. The 460 and the MS290/291 are slow heavy pigs that are pretty much matched to thier market. Reliable cheap saws designed for backyard wood cutters that will beat them to death before wearing them out. Both are pretty much disposable, and both use cheapo clamshell construction. There is better if you are looking for more, but you will have to step out of the homeowner market. If you're hung up on brand, on a budget, and looking for something to pass on to your kid in 20 years, find a good used MS260 or 346XP for about the same price as a new homeowner unit. Both are a couple pounds lighter, much faster, more reliable, and more affordably rebuilt than the homeowner stuff. Good luck to ya! |
| I like chainsaws and have more of them than I need. I have been cutting firewood since Carter was in office and have run everything from Homelites (when they were heavy professional all metal saws) to Stihls and Jonsereds (the red version of Husqvarna). I tried the disposable saw route early in my career and learned the lesson of buy once cry once really applies to chainsaws. I also learned to have a backup saw for when the cheapo saw crapped out while you were 20 miles from home. Unless you are a homeowner who buys a saw to cut up some fallen trees in your backyard once or twice a year I heartily recommend a professional grade saw. Get the best saw you can afford because the pro saws have better power, better anti vibe and generally weigh much less than homeowner grade saws. Fatigue is your worst enemy when using a chainsaw, it makes you sloppy and that is when people get hurt. As others have said the name brand pro saws are all good and your choice should be made upon dealer support. Getting the best deal on the saw is false economy if you cannot get it serviced when needed. I personally like the pro Jonsereds but Stihl and Dolmar make good saws as well. Talk to the tree guys in your area and find out what dealer they use. They rely on their saws every day to make a living and will know who the good dealers are. Finally, invest in Personal Protection Equipment. It can save your life or parts of your person you may be attached to. |
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I'll come out and say it. The 460 and the MS290/291 are slow heavy pigs that are pretty much matched to thier market. Reliable cheap saws designed for backyard wood cutters that will beat them to death before wearing them out. Both are pretty much disposable, and both use cheapo clamshell construction. There is better if you are looking for more, but you will have to step out of the homeowner market. Thanks again to everyone for the recommendations. I was fortunate that the guy selling me the saw gave me the same advice you did. I went in looking at the MS290, and despite having several in stock, he told me about the MS360 and why he preferred it. He started it and cut some wood with it as well and the power was evident. |
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here is your next purchase:
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=LW850&catID= btw Baileys is a good outfit for chain and gear and such. get a couple of spare screnches and some felling wedges when you buy your chaps ps: here is the ARFCOM of saws: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/ sign up and post in the tacked "Beg for Manuals" thread that you want the SM (service manual) and IPL (illustrated parts list) for your MS360. this thread is under the "Stickies" subheading in the forum above. links to the documents will "appear" in your PM box. do not thank anyone in that thread. just enjoy what arrives. ar-jedi 
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I'll come out and say it. The 460 and the MS290/291 are slow heavy pigs that are pretty much matched to thier market. Reliable cheap saws designed for backyard wood cutters that will beat them to death before wearing them out. Both are pretty much disposable, and both use cheapo clamshell construction. There is better if you are looking for more, but you will have to step out of the homeowner market. Thanks again to everyone for the recommendations. I was fortunate that the guy selling me the saw gave me the same advice you did. I went in looking at the MS290, and despite having several in stock, he told me about the MS360 and why he preferred it. He started it and cut some wood with it as well and the power was evident. If by 360, you mean the MS362 ya did really good. Stihl blatently copied Husqvarnas 3 series XP filtration, and brought thier Anti-vibe system up to modern standards when they brought in the Strato saws. Just leaps and bounds ahead of the previous series saws and on par or better than thier competitors..finally. The 362 is worlds beyond the overhyped and painfully heavy/slow 290/460 ya dodged. Slap a Muff mod on the thing as soon as the warranty expires, or send it off to one of the better porting wizzards(E.Cropsey etc.) and there is another whole 290/460 in there just waiting to be unleashed. If you mean MS360, it's still a dadgum good saw, just old and out dated. Last ones were made in 03' IIRC. Not up to date on AV or power to weight , but still a hell of a better saw all around than the 290 or 460 by a good margin. Crap, if ya got a real MS360 and it's like new, it's worth some $$$ as a collector already.
Ya did good! |
| I usually cut 5-10 cords a year most of my saws are approaching 15+ years old all Stihl 011 14", 020T 14", 036 20" , 066M 24" also have HS75 and HS80 Pole saws. Most of my firewood cutting is with the 036 knock on wood never had a problem with that saw I think I bought it around '95. I don't think the Husky's are bad saws I just prefer the ergonomics, safety equipment (chain brake) , side access chain tensioner, and ease of service of the Stihls. Just my .02. |
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here is your next purchase: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=LW850&catID= btw Baileys is a good outfit for chain and gear and such. get a couple of spare screnches and some felling wedges when you buy your chaps ps: here is the ARFCOM of saws: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/ sign up and post in the tacked "Beg for Manuals" thread that you want the SM (service manual) and IPL (illustrated parts list) for your MS360. this thread is under the "Stickies" subheading in the forum above. links to the documents will "appear" in your PM box. do not thank anyone in that thread. just enjoy what arrives. ar-jedi http://www.baileysonline.com/prod_images/LW850_XL1.jpg IMHO Chaps are a MUST HAVE item. $100 now can cost you thousands of dollars in medical costs and/or permanent injury and/or death. They are well worth the cost and don't add much discomfort. I have never heard of a person regretting buying a pair. I have seen a few people that regretted not buying them, and even one story where a person had them but didn't wear them because it was "just a quick job" and ended up regretting that choice very deeply (ended up with permanent injuries and 3 months of recovery time as a result). |
My saws
Dealers all over my area, Stihl only at ACE or True Value hardware stores. When I went to purchase one the didn't even have one on display and said they had to put one together. Refurb Husky |
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Thanks AR jedi for the link...
That brings me to my next question, what safety equipment do you recommend? I can see chaps, but in a kick-back it seems like the shoulders/head/chest would be more likely to get hit. I was looking at helmets too. I used to cut wood with my grandfather and safety equipment wasn't even a thought back then. Given the power of these newer saws, it is probably not a bad idea. I'm also debating what to get in the way of a peavey or other log handling tools. I really hate cutting wood on the ground. Any feedback on the WoodChuck? Thanks again! |
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Thanks AR jedi for the link... That brings me to my next question, what safety equipment do you recommend? I can see chaps, but in a kick-back it seems like the shoulders/head/chest would be more likely to get hit. I was looking at helmets too. I used to cut wood with my grandfather and safety equipment wasn't even a thought back then. Given the power of these newer saws, it is probably not a bad idea. i can't stress enough that you should be wearing proper PPE when cutting. the problem with a chainsaw injury is that the cutting action removes about a 1/4" swath of tissue the length of the wound -- this is extraordinarily difficult to effectively repair. it's not like a nice clean cut from a kitchen knife which can be sewn back together in a few minutes. instead, a chainsaw injury site is ripped/missing tissue with tons of unwanted foreign debris embedded. this is all bad. see att'd pic -- most chainsaw injuries are on the legs and feet due to incidental contact with a moving chain once the cut is complete, or loss of balance while cutting due to log shift or foot slippage. so... chaps are a must -- the Labonville brand i linked to above are a good value. next, a sturdy pair of leather boots with steel toe guards. in addition, a combo-hemlet/visor/muffs setup is a good idea. and finally, good cutting gloves. someone will be along shortly to explain that they have been cutting for 30 years without PPE gear on, and without incident. yet everyone who has posted their injury saga on Arboristsite starts off their tale by saying the same thing... ar-jedi Facts and Figures about Chainsaw Injuries According to the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission there were over 28,500 chain saw injuries in 1999. More than 36% were injuries to the legs and knees. The average chainsaw injury requires 110 stitches and the average medical cost was $ 5,600.00 in 1989. Data according to The Davis Garvin Agency, an insurance underwriter specializing in loggers insurance. In year 2000 corresponding costs can be estimated to be over $12,000.00. Medical costs for chainsaw injuries based on these facts amount to about 350 million dollars per year. Workman's compensation costs, based on the assumption that four weeks recovery is required, can be estimated at 125 million dollars annually. Loss of production as well as loss of quality of life for the injured can not be adequately quantified, but may in fact represent the single largest cost. There are 69,000 professional loggers in the U.S.. The cost of equipping all of them with one pair of chainsaw chaps at approximately $75.00 each would result in a total annual expense of five million dollars. There are few situations where safety has a more immediate payback than in the logging industry. 
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I've used a chainsaw since the 1970's when I did commercial cutting. We wore steel toe boots, chaps or metal leg/foot protectors.
I own chaps like those pictured above and wear safety toe boots at least. I also have a pair of Husqvarna chainsaw protective boots but in the summer I often skip the protective gear which I know is risky. Husqvarna boots I knew one person cutting a branch that had the saw kick back and hit their face. I wear a helmet sometimes and always wear hearing protection. helmet eye protection or you get wood chips in your eye sooner or later. On downed trees cut limbs on side away from where you are standing so you don't cut through your boot. |
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here is your next purchase: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=LW850&catID= btw Baileys is a good outfit for chain and gear and such. get a couple of spare screnches and some felling wedges when you buy your chaps ps: here is the ARFCOM of saws: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/ sign up and post in the tacked "Beg for Manuals" thread that you want the SM (service manual) and IPL (illustrated parts list) for your MS360. this thread is under the "Stickies" subheading in the forum above. links to the documents will "appear" in your PM box. do not thank anyone in that thread. just enjoy what arrives. ar-jedi http://www.baileysonline.com/prod_images/LW850_XL1.jpg get these and wear good sturdy steel toed boots, preferaby something that has double leatherwalls on the sides and eyepro as well as hearing pro you dont want to take a chainsaw across the top of your foot/ side of your foot its no fun believe me i know.... 
also use the proper saw for the job, limbing with a 36" husquvarna isnt smart. |
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Quoted: I used to own a tree trimming and removal company. Ran Husky's alot. Great saws and the decompress feature is nice on their bigger saws. That said, both brands are super good and I would base my decision on price and availability of parts, service, etc. Neither will be a bad choice, especially for light/medium use. Just my .02 This, same position here i have taken down hundreds of trees.. i always ran stihl including the 290.. the other day i was helping a buddy wit his husky 460. i was very impressed with it.. will be the next saw i purchase.. |
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Wow, I'm really surprised at the leg/foot injuries, compared to upper body injuries. The videos I've seen of kickback make it appear like shoulders/head/arms would take a hit. I'll definitely get some chaps ordered. I already have logger boots.
Sidebar story. I was cutting a tree for my parents a few years back and suddenly felt like I was on fire. I literally threw the saw, illogically thinking that somehow it had caused me to catch fire. In reality, the noise/vibration had disturbed a hornets nest in the ground. The fact that I was wearing heavier clothes for the purposes of cutting wood kept the stings from being worse. |
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Wow, I'm really surprised at the leg/foot injuries, compared to upper body injuries. The videos I've seen of kickback make it appear like shoulders/head/arms would take a hit. I'll definitely get some chaps ordered. I already have logger boots. Don't forget, most, if not all, modern chainsaws have a built in chain brake that reacts to kickback. So the chain will hopefully be stopped if kickback is violent enough to reach your body. IIRC, the brake activates not only from your arm/hand tripping the lever, but, by inertia also. Can anyone confirm/deny the inertia part? |
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IIRC, the brake activates not only from your arm/hand tripping the lever, but, by inertia also. Can anyone confirm/deny the inertia part? i am only familiar with Stihl's mechanism, but in that instance you are correct -- inertia activates the chain brake. ar-jedi |
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IIRC, the brake activates not only from your arm/hand tripping the lever, but, by inertia also. Can anyone confirm/deny the inertia part? i am only familiar with Stihl's mechanism, but in that instance you are correct -- inertia activates the chain brake. ar-jedi Good to know, I'm a Stihl man also. I use the brake often manually when starting etc, but, couldn't remember the inertia part. |
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IIRC, the brake activates not only from your arm/hand tripping the lever, but, by inertia also. Can anyone confirm/deny the inertia part? i am only familiar with Stihl's mechanism, but in that instance you are correct -- inertia activates the chain brake. ar-jedi It's the same with all modern saws. Husky, Dolmar, Redmax, Shindaiwa, Echo..anything worth owning anyhow. Can't vouch for the chineese homeowner shit. |