Posted: 9/8/2015 11:38:14 PM EDT
|
Does anyone have any experience with Goal Zero solar panels and power generators?
Yeti 400 My local Costco has their products in stock for sale. Are they worth purchasing? Any suggested combinations? |
|
Quoted:
Does anyone have any experience with Goal Zero solar panels and power generators? Yeti 400 My local Costco has their products in stock for sale. Are they worth purchasing? Any suggested combinations? If you have the cash to blow, they're nicely implemented and pretty much turnkey. What do you see yourself using it for, specifically? You can get a couple of quality mono-crystalline 30, 40, 50 watt rigid solar panels for $200, some Y connectors, a 35Ah Chrome SLA/AGM mother battery for $70 shipped, a 12v cigarette accessory socket, a small 12v inverter for $45 and put together something like I did for a lot less, if you're somewhat handy. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_18/658756_Behold_her_awesomeness___I_give_you_Juanita____solar_charging_kit_.html It won't run a TV, but for the smaller gadgets and rechargeable batteries, it's fine. Chris |
|
I've got a Guide 10 plus that has a small panel and 4 AA/AAA battery charger that works well.
When using to charge an iPhone, if there is a loss of power from the solar panel the phone will stop charging until it is unplugged and plugged back in. A problem specific to the iPhone is my understanding. The simple workaround is to plug the iPhone into the battery charger and have the battery charger connected to the panel. I use it with a variety of NiMH batteries and it works well for that purpose. The first battery pack I had appeared to have some cheap Chinese bits in it as it made a high pitch whistling noise when a heavy load was on it, such as from a dead/near dead phone. A call to Goal Zero got me a replacement unit that works better. Still has a faint whistling noise, but not near as loud nor is it annoying. Unit is durable and the panel seems good to go for outdoor use and getting bounced around/dropped/etc. As for some of their bigger and more expensive products, I'd first compare prices from something you could put together without too much difficulty (the Ham radio subforum had some good info on this). |
|
Thanks for the info guys.
I guess my wife and I were envisioning using it for recharging batteries, cell phones, running a couple of lights and maybe running a small TV during a short power outage (no more than 2 - 3 days). I kinda wanted something turnkey that's why this type of product interests me. |
|
Quoted:
Thanks for the info guys. I guess my wife and I were envisioning using it for recharging batteries, cell phones, running a couple of lights and maybe running a small TV during a short power outage (no more than 2 - 3 days). I kinda wanted something turnkey that's why this type of product interests me. If you get something like the Yeti 400/1250, you'll need some decent solar panels and a nice digital charge controller. 400Wh taken down to a 50% depth of discharge, leaves 200Wh, so you're doing cell phones, NiMH/li-ion batteries and other smaller things, but it probably won't power even a small TV for all that long. Charging it back up quickly, will be the key to any power bank's success. Chris |
|
Quoted:
Thanks for the info guys. I guess my wife and I were envisioning using it for recharging batteries, cell phones, running a couple of lights and maybe running a small TV during a short power outage (no more than 2 - 3 days). I kinda wanted something turnkey that's why this type of product interests me. If you are talking about days you probably need a gas-powered generator. One thing keeping me away from those solar-type generators is the amount of time to regenerate the batteries. That Yeti model you listed takes at least one full day using two panels and full Sun. If the outage happens in Winter things get more complicated. Then there's the battery life. Goal Zero says the Yeti uses a lead-acid battery. Discharge it below a certain level and its life span decreases. So, you cannot use all the stored power or you will gradually kill the battery. A TV, even small, will drain your battery quickly. Read the reviews in the Amazon, REI and other websites. I am considering a small solar for my HAM radio using Lithium-Iron batteries, which have the best service life among all in terms of discharge cycles. However, they are expensive now so I'll use as an experiment. The radio is a low power model and even so would run for just a few hours on that model. I had a power outage here that lasted a bit more than 12 hours, mostly overnight. My gas generator kept the house going without a glitch. A solar would be SOL. Just my 2c. |
|
I didn't know that about the different battery types. Good info thanks.
I'm on the wet side of WA so the solar part of this power pack is defiantly a issue. Looks like it'll take a while to recharge the battery during an emergency. Sounds like a gas generator would serve my needs a bit better here, however I do still like the idea of having some power during a short emergency for small items- AA battery recharge, cell phones, laptop etc.. (without the noise of a gas geni). |
|
Quoted:
I didn't know that about the different battery types. Good info thanks. I'm on the wet side of WA so the solar part of this power pack is defiantly a issue. Looks like it'll take a while to recharge the battery during an emergency. Sounds like a gas generator would serve my needs a bit better here, however I do still like the idea of having some power during a short emergency for small items- AA battery recharge, cell phones, laptop etc.. (without the noise of a gas geni). That's easily enough accomplished with even a small 30w panel, 4x18650 USB power bank, PWM digital controller, 22Ah (ish) mother battery and a few 12v male adapters for your 12v NiMH/li-ion chargers. This way, if you had to, you can charge up the mother battery by day and then charge up all of your gadgets by night. O2 Cool makes 10" 12v D battery/AC fans, so don't forget one/two of them. Chris |
|
my setup, a 110AH deep cell battery from autozone, $120. a 400w(800w surge) inverter from walmart(i think) was $40(again, i think) a marine battery box from walmart, $10, some 3M velcro to attach inverter to battery box, $6 or $8. a 12v battery charger/jump starter for fast charging, $50(again, i think) from walmart. with a different inverter i ran a 32" LCD TV, directv sat box, and a 65w CFL lamp for over 4.5 hours during sandy and only used about .4v out of the battery. the inverter has low voltage shutdown so i cant drain the battery to low to cause damage. my next one will be larger, either 2 of the 110AH batteries or 4 220AH 6v batteries as well as a larger inverter and a small solar setup to charge/maintain it.
|
|
Quoted:
my setup, a 110AH deep cell battery from autozone, $120. a 400w(800w surge) inverter from walmart(i think) was $40(again, i think) a marine battery box from walmart, $10, some 3M velcro to attach inverter to battery box, $6 or $8. a 12v battery charger/jump starter for fast charging, $50(again, i think) from walmart. with a different inverter i ran a 32" LCD TV, directv sat box, and a 65w CFL lamp for over 4.5 hours during sandy and only used about .4v out of the battery. the inverter has low voltage shutdown so i cant drain the battery to low to cause damage. my next one will be larger, either 2 of the 110AH batteries or 4 220AH 6v batteries as well as a larger inverter and a small solar setup to charge/maintain it. i built 2 of those. they get more use than my generators. last power outage i had lights fans and tv going off the box. i walked out on my porch and my neighbors were outside looking up the hill out my house like i was a wizard or something.... power with no noise! |
|
Quoted:
i built 2 of those. they get more use than my generators. last power outage i had lights fans and tv going off the box. i walked out on my porch and my neighbors were outside looking up the hill out my house like i was a wizard or something.... power with no noise! Quoted:
Quoted:
my setup, a 110AH deep cell battery from autozone, $120. a 400w(800w surge) inverter from walmart(i think) was $40(again, i think) a marine battery box from walmart, $10, some 3M velcro to attach inverter to battery box, $6 or $8. a 12v battery charger/jump starter for fast charging, $50(again, i think) from walmart. with a different inverter i ran a 32" LCD TV, directv sat box, and a 65w CFL lamp for over 4.5 hours during sandy and only used about .4v out of the battery. the inverter has low voltage shutdown so i cant drain the battery to low to cause damage. my next one will be larger, either 2 of the 110AH batteries or 4 220AH 6v batteries as well as a larger inverter and a small solar setup to charge/maintain it. i built 2 of those. they get more use than my generators. last power outage i had lights fans and tv going off the box. i walked out on my porch and my neighbors were outside looking up the hill out my house like i was a wizard or something.... power with no noise! i still need to add my 12v plugs on it as well as pick up some 12v LED lights for it. the more i can run direct off 12v the longer the battery will power them. just havent had the time to drill the battery box but im thinking of changing out the adapters i have for some i found on amazon that are modular. |
|
I'd like to duplicate this setup....can you provide more details for a dummy like me? Like:
1. battery - any particular make/model? 2. 12v battery charger/jump starter - same? 3. You mention another inverter also? How long do you charge the battery? Same questions on your larger one? The reason I ask is looking for someone with actual hands-on vs. simply picking something off the web or at wally world. Pics would be cool if you have time/energy. Thanks! Jon Quoted:
my setup, a 110AH deep cell battery from autozone, $120. a 400w(800w surge) inverter from walmart(i think) was $40(again, i think) a marine battery box from walmart, $10, some 3M velcro to attach inverter to battery box, $6 or $8. a 12v battery charger/jump starter for fast charging, $50(again, i think) from walmart. with a different inverter i ran a 32" LCD TV, directv sat box, and a 65w CFL lamp for over 4.5 hours during sandy and only used about .4v out of the battery. the inverter has low voltage shutdown so i cant drain the battery to low to cause damage. my next one will be larger, either 2 of the 110AH batteries or 4 220AH 6v batteries as well as a larger inverter and a small solar setup to charge/maintain it. |
|
mine was the biggest deep cycle battery walmart had. a plastic battery box, min 1000wt inverter mounted to top of box.
cable with car battery cables and place circuit breaker inline. i use 150 breakers. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024JOKM4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage DO NOT go cheap on the breaker. you can find cheaper ones in the same rating but my experience is they fail easily and don't have the ratings they advertise. pretty much indentical to this..
|
|
you want to size the inverters to meet the demand of what you are running. WAY over sized can waste battery as some inverters don't always match the draw to the load. <so i am told> your run time is based on the amp draw against the battery.
this site has a pretty good calc: http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/ac-to-dc-amperage-conversion-run-through-an-inverter.html for example 120v ac out put at 8amps of draw needs 1800watts at 12v dc. at an amperage of 165 amps. now an 8a constant draw on one of these boxes is a pretty good load. with a 220ah battery your looking at 1.3hr run time in a perfect world. Add in loss from the components and it will be slightly less. this is one reason i try to keep the inverters in the 1500watt or less range. there is very little i can't run at that output <even with multiple devices/lights> and it helps regulate the run time as it limits max draw. my general use is a fan, 2 100wt lamps, 55" plasma tv , direct tv box and internet modem and router. that runs me around 3.5a max draw. which = 38a dc draw on the battery. with a 220ah battery = 5.7 hours. |
|
don't forget a way to properly charge the battery. if your using this for more than one day a 4a charger isn't going to work out for you trying to charge off a generator. i'd reccomend a 30a charger at a min.
220ah battery should be turned off at around 50-60% depletion. you need to put 120ah of juice back into that battery. a 4a that = 30hrs of charge time. at 40a, 3hr. i have 2 boxes and had a solar system to charge them. when the tornadoes came through the first time i found i was behind the curve for usable power on these after 2 days. day 3 required them to be out of service for charging for almost 48hrs. i went about bought a 40a charger and charged them off the generator during the freezer runs 3 times a day at 3 hours per run. no more issues. don;t expect a solar system to keep these running unless it is LARGE. |
|
Quoted:
thanks!!!! Now on my list of things to add to the collection...first is putting a proper exhaust on my generator to quiet it down :) my setup was kind of an in the moment purchase type of deal. we had a tropical storm bearing down on us so i didnt have time to fool around with buying what i actually wanted. if i had to do it over again i would grab 2 GC2's for more amp hours. future plans are you step up to a couple or even 4 Trojan L16P-A's. the GC2's will give you 220 amp hours(almost double what i have now) for about $80 each. 2 of the trojans will give you 420 amp hours but they are a lot more money and are a little larger. my suggestion is, figure out how large a system you want and where you want to install it. then find batteries and an inverter or better yet and inverter/charger that fits your needs. |
| So, say I want to run an old 175 watt power inverter (350 watt peak) indoors to charge phones, radios, small batteries. What 12 volt battery would I want to buy? How small can I go? Would a sealed lead acid battery be a better choice for this application or a deep cycle marine/RV battery. I've got some gift cards for advance auto if anyone can suggest a product number. I have had the inverter laying around for years and just want to make a small power pack project out of it. I figure it would be big enough for small tasks. I assume I would need 12 volts and 14.5 amps. |
|
Quoted:
So, say I want to run an old 175 watt power inverter (350 watt peak) indoors to charge phones, radios, small batteries. What 12 volt battery would I want to buy? How small can I go? Would a sealed lead acid battery be a better choice for this application or a deep cycle marine/RV battery. I've got some gift cards for advance auto if anyone can suggest a product number. I have had the inverter laying around for years and just want to make a small power pack project out of it. I figure it would be big enough for small tasks. I assume I would need 12 volts and 14.5 amps. max output is just under 3a at 120v. that equals about 33a draw dc on the battery. a 100ah battery would last roughly 1.5hr before hitting the charging threshold at around 50%. that is max load under perfect conditions. |


