Posted: 8/10/2010 7:54:21 PM EDT
| Lotta talk about survival knives lately but what about a small sharpener to pack for when that survival knife goes dull from hacking down poles for a lean-to? |
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I'd second the DMT double sided. They're well made and built to last while not being much in weight to pack. I've been able to get excellent edges with them on various knives. I like the Lansky dog bones too for a compact packable sharpener, but don't feel they'll last as long as the DMT's and they don't really weigh less to outweigh the DMT's as far as trying to save weight. DMT double sided fine/extra fine |
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I like the EZELap, but being round, it takes a bit more practice to use properly. It is slower because the cutting edge is much reduced from that of a flat cutting surface.
To the extent that you use/carry/need to sharpen small pointed things, fish hooks, and/or have serrated edges to sharpen, a small sharpener like this might prove invaluable:http://www.ciscostrading.com/lamushserebl.html FWIW, and IMHO, I don't think that the serrations seen on most knives are intended for anything but cutting synthetic lines and ropes. If all your knife has is an inch or so of serration, the line had better be fairly small in diameter in order for you (and your knife) to make a quick job of it. You see, the line usually has a tendency to roll a bit while being cut by a serrated edge, so your serrations not only need to be quite sharp, but also the right length to cut them synthetic line in one swipe. Savvy fishermen and yachtsmen usually have line-cutting knives whose straight-edge is mostly serrated, because they deal mostly with synthetic line. Four inches of sharp serrations will usually cut synthetic lines up to 1/2" if there is a bit of tension on the line, and you do your part. Another point is that cutting small diameter synthetic line demands less aggressive (shallower) serrations than does cutting larger diameter synthetic line, which demands deeper serrations. For the most part, the usual one inch or so of serrations seen on most knives is a compromise, intended for occasional use on smallish diameter line only. Your knife is nothing more or less than a tool. As I have said before, once you intelligently, and dispassionately define your tool's end-use, the question of what is the "correct' tool to carry almost solves itself. |
| I've used the lansky system for so long now I am spoiled by its simplicity and ability to choose the right angle for the knife used. For quick sharpening in the field, I use a tiny plastic job with little ceramic sticks inside that came with a rapala fillet knife. Just dunk it in water and do a dozen or so strokes and you are good to go. I do like the look of that diamond one you linked but don't think I could ever give up my lansky after all these years. If in a hurry, the fine stone is fast and will get knives sharp enough to easily slice thru paper and shave hair although kinda roughly. With the black hard arkansas stone, the lansky gets knives hair shaving sharp although it does take longer. If I damage a blade, the course and medium stones will restore a proper edge quickly. |
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I've used the lansky system for so long now I am spoiled by its simplicity and ability to choose the right angle for the knife used. For quick sharpening in the field, I use a tiny plastic job with little ceramic sticks inside that came with a rapala fillet knife. Just dunk it in water and do a dozen or so strokes and you are good to go. I do like the look of that diamond one you linked but don't think I could ever give up my lansky after all these years. If in a hurry, the fine stone is fast and will get knives sharp enough to easily slice thru paper and shave hair although kinda roughly. With the black hard arkansas stone, the lansky gets knives hair shaving sharp although it does take longer. If I damage a blade, the course and medium stones will restore a proper edge quickly. Lansky is good kit. I own one so old that there were no options but stones at the time. Over time, I bought additional, different-grade Lansky stones to fill the vacant slots in the original OD box, and then some. Apparently the patent's expired, and other mfrs have gotten into the same game, so Lansky is not the only player nowadays. I do prefer the diamond sharpeners for field use, as they require only a little bit of water––if that–– to work well, while the much older (Lansky, and others of that time frame) stones required oil, the availability of which could be problematic under certain circumstances. For use at home, the stones do give a better edge, IMHO, and as oil is not currently a problem, that is what I generally use. Of course, I have a full compliment of diamond, double-sided sharpeners, as mentioned above, but I prefer the Lansky kit overall. YMMV. |
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Lotta talk about survival knives lately but what about a small sharpener to pack for when that survival knife goes dull from hacking down poles for a lean-to? IF you are hacking down poles for your lean to, you are advertising your position to everyone within a half mile or more. Try a saw and your knife won't get dull from doing sill things with it. I have a diamond file on my Leatherman that will do a sufficient job of resharpening a knife if necessary. How long are you planning on being in the woods during a bug out? |
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I've used the lansky system for so long now I am spoiled by its simplicity and ability to choose the right angle for the knife used. For quick sharpening in the field, I use a tiny plastic job with little ceramic sticks inside that came with a rapala fillet knife. Just dunk it in water and do a dozen or so strokes and you are good to go. I do like the look of that diamond one you linked but don't think I could ever give up my lansky after all these years. If in a hurry, the fine stone is fast and will get knives sharp enough to easily slice thru paper and shave hair although kinda roughly. With the black hard arkansas stone, the lansky gets knives hair shaving sharp although it does take longer. If I damage a blade, the course and medium stones will restore a proper edge quickly. Lansky is good kit. I own one so old that there were no options but stones at the time. Over time, I bought additional, different-grade Lansky stones to fill the vacant slots in the original OD box, and then some. Apparently the patent's expired, and other mfrs have gotten into the same game, so Lansky is not the only player nowadays. I do prefer the diamond sharpeners for field use, as they require only a little bit of water––if that–– to work well, while the much older (Lansky, and others of that time frame) stones required oil, the availability of which could be problematic under certain circumstances. For use at home, the stones do give a better edge, IMHO, and as oil is not currently a problem, that is what I generally use. Of course, I have a full compliment of diamond, double-sided sharpeners, as mentioned above, but I prefer the Lansky kit overall. YMMV. For home use, the gatco sharpener is a much better choice than the lansky. The diamond stones with light oil do a wonderful job. They leave the edge micro serrated. You have to see it to get the feel of what it can do. A fine diamond sharpener is usually fine for bringing back an already sharp edge and no oil is needed for just touching up an edge. A little oil doesn't hurt. |
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I've used the lansky system for so long now I am spoiled by its simplicity and ability to choose the right angle for the knife used. For quick sharpening in the field, I use a tiny plastic job with little ceramic sticks inside that came with a rapala fillet knife. Just dunk it in water and do a dozen or so strokes and you are good to go. I do like the look of that diamond one you linked but don't think I could ever give up my lansky after all these years. If in a hurry, the fine stone is fast and will get knives sharp enough to easily slice thru paper and shave hair although kinda roughly. With the black hard arkansas stone, the lansky gets knives hair shaving sharp although it does take longer. If I damage a blade, the course and medium stones will restore a proper edge quickly. Lansky is good kit. I own one so old that there were no options but stones at the time. Over time, I bought additional, different-grade Lansky stones to fill the vacant slots in the original OD box, and then some. Apparently the patent's expired, and other mfrs have gotten into the same game, so Lansky is not the only player nowadays. I do prefer the diamond sharpeners for field use, as they require only a little bit of water––if that–– to work well, while the much older (Lansky, and others of that time frame) stones required oil, the availability of which could be problematic under certain circumstances. For use at home, the stones do give a better edge, IMHO, and as oil is not currently a problem, that is what I generally use. Of course, I have a full compliment of diamond, double-sided sharpeners, as mentioned above, but I prefer the Lansky kit overall. YMMV. For home use, the gatco sharpener is a much better choice than the lansky. The diamond stones with light oil do a wonderful job. They leave the edge micro serrated. You have to see it to get the feel of what it can do. A fine diamond sharpener is usually fine for bringing back an already sharp edge and no oil is needed for just touching up an edge. A little oil doesn't hurt. I think we have much to learn from one another. And I would enjoy sharing knowledge. |
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The DMT double-sided Diafold sharpeners are quite good. I'm trying to get my hands on a Fallkniven DC4 as well. These are quite a good choice for a bug out bag if you need to abuse your equipment.  I have one that is Medium on one side and fine on the other. That is a good combination for cleaning up an edge. The exlap are good as well. I have both sitting on my shelf.
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I've used the lansky system for so long now I am spoiled by its simplicity and ability to choose the right angle for the knife used. For quick sharpening in the field, I use a tiny plastic job with little ceramic sticks inside that came with a rapala fillet knife. Just dunk it in water and do a dozen or so strokes and you are good to go. I do like the look of that diamond one you linked but don't think I could ever give up my lansky after all these years. If in a hurry, the fine stone is fast and will get knives sharp enough to easily slice thru paper and shave hair although kinda roughly. With the black hard arkansas stone, the lansky gets knives hair shaving sharp although it does take longer. If I damage a blade, the course and medium stones will restore a proper edge quickly. Lansky is good kit. I own one so old that there were no options but stones at the time. Over time, I bought additional, different-grade Lansky stones to fill the vacant slots in the original OD box, and then some. Apparently the patent's expired, and other mfrs have gotten into the same game, so Lansky is not the only player nowadays. I do prefer the diamond sharpeners for field use, as they require only a little bit of water––if that–– to work well, while the much older (Lansky, and others of that time frame) stones required oil, the availability of which could be problematic under certain circumstances. For use at home, the stones do give a better edge, IMHO, and as oil is not currently a problem, that is what I generally use. Of course, I have a full compliment of diamond, double-sided sharpeners, as mentioned above, but I prefer the Lansky kit overall. YMMV. For home use, the gatco sharpener is a much better choice than the lansky. The diamond stones with light oil do a wonderful job. They leave the edge micro serrated. You have to see it to get the feel of what it can do. A fine diamond sharpener is usually fine for bringing back an already sharp edge and no oil is needed for just touching up an edge. A little oil doesn't hurt. I think we have much to learn from one another. And I would enjoy sharing knowledge. Me too! That is why I am here. This is the kit I use. Gatco clamping system Because the edge is cut by sharp cutting tools, the edge ends up with micro serrations. They cut like crazy. Just don't cut yourself with a knife sharpened this way because it doesn't like to stop bleeding. I usually finish off with a spyderco ceramic system to get a very, very keen edge, but is really the vanity of being able to shave effortlessly with it, rather than raw cutting power of the micro serrations from the diamond cut. Use the gatco brand oil for best results with any diamond stone, but CLP does great for a temporary solution that you might have on you. |
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good info being shared. Got to say looking at the pics of the gatco it looks alot like my lansky. Even the same basic layout in the hard sided case as my lansky. I know alot of folks have switched to the diamond sharpening stones and no doubt they are great for sharpening. I am still sticking with my lansky for home use since even after all these years, mine still works great. I did run out of the original oil bottle so am currently using a really light machine oil that was original made for sowing machines. Comes in a nice small plastic bottle and works great. As mentioned, clp does work too in a pinch just not quite as good as the light oil.
Maybe I will invest in one of those little two sided diamond jobs for field use and just keep it in my bug out pack. My wife thinks I'm a nut for keeping bug out gear packed and ready to roll but what can i say... I'm an old boy scout. |
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good info being shared. Got to say looking at the pics of the gatco it looks alot like my lansky. Even the same basic layout in the hard sided case as my lansky. I know alot of folks have switched to the diamond sharpening stones and no doubt they are great for sharpening. I am still sticking with my lansky for home use since even after all these years, mine still works great. I did run out of the original oil bottle so am currently using a really light machine oil that was original made for sowing machines. Comes in a nice small plastic bottle and works great. As mentioned, clp does work too in a pinch just not quite as good as the light oil. Maybe I will invest in one of those little two sided diamond jobs for field use and just keep it in my bug out pack. My wife thinks I'm a nut for keeping bug out gear packed and ready to roll but what can i say... I'm an old boy scout. Not a single thing wrong with a lansky. The gatco just cuts much faster so its perfect for setting the initial edge on a new knife. I always set the edge with a steep angle so it cuts easier. Many of the stock knives are too obtuse from the factory. Taking the material off can sometimes take quite an effort. The gatco just makes that easier. You could buy a diamond stone and work a new blade by hand until you get close to the angle you want and then use the lansky to finish. |
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I don't know how to make it "hot", but this: http://smithsedge.com/products/product.asp?id=46&cid=10 Pocket Pal Knife Sharpener |
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I forgot to mention something important. The round diamond sharpeners actually cut much more aggressively and leave a coarser edge than most flat diamond sharpeners. A finer grit helps, but its the surface area of the contact point that means the fewer cutting tools in contact with the blade, the deeper they cut. I definitely prefer the flat diamond stones like the DMT folder.
Also, the carbide chunk sharpeners are a joke. The ones you drag your knife through. Don't waste your money. They are false security and very poor performers. I have seen versions with ceramics that would not be so terrible, but still ill conceived. |
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I like the ezelap. When collapsed, its roughly the size of a pen. Much more durable than its plastic counterparts. http://www.bladematrix.tv/ProductImages/E/EZLM.jpg That's what I use. |
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Lotta talk about survival knives lately but what about a small sharpener to pack for when that survival knife goes dull from hacking down poles for a lean-to? Why in the pack and not with the knife  My favorite is Fallkniven's DC4; a double sided fine-ceramic and diamond sharpener...
The mini DMT sharpeners will also fit several of the Leatherman multi-tool pouches: 
Of course, you could carry a decent "sharpening kit" if you felt the need: 
A JRE pack strop (pre-loaded), Gatco ceramic/triangle shapener, very fine ceramic rod (for my curved carving knife), DMT Diafold (very course for the machete) and the Fallkniven DC4 stays with my knife sheath. ROCK6 |
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Quoted: I like the ezelap. When collapsed, its roughly the size of a pen. Much more durable than its plastic counterparts. http://www.bladematrix.tv/ProductImages/E/EZLM.jpg Those are the SHIZ!! I carried one in my saddle bags for years when I was guiding elk hunts. They work like a champ. |
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Huge +1 for the Lansky or Smith percision knife sharpening systems (I have both) but for lightweight carry and convenience, I use a Gerber diamond sharpener. I really like the look of the Smith Pocket Pal and will have to pick one up sometime to try out.
http://www.gerbergear.com/images/products/22-41307-1.jpghttp://smithsedge.com/img.aspx?image=/!userfiles/product-photos/spsk.jpg&size=350http://smithsedge.com/img.aspx?image=/!userfiles/product-photos/pp1_rod_fan.jpg&size=350 |
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good info being shared. Got to say looking at the pics of the gatco it looks alot like my lansky. Even the same basic layout in the hard sided case as my lansky. I know alot of folks have switched to the diamond sharpening stones and no doubt they are great for sharpening. I am still sticking with my lansky for home use since even after all these years, mine still works great. I did run out of the original oil bottle so am currently using a really light machine oil that was original made for sowing machines. Comes in a nice small plastic bottle and works great. As mentioned, clp does work too in a pinch just not quite as good as the light oil. Maybe I will invest in one of those little two sided diamond jobs for field use and just keep it in my bug out pack. My wife thinks I'm a nut for keeping bug out gear packed and ready to roll but what can i say... I'm an old boy scout. The Lansky is good, but the GATCO is better. The diamond hones and stones in the GATCO kit are quite a bit bigger which makes it easier and faster to use. |
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I like the ezelap. When collapsed, its roughly the size of a pen. Much more durable than its plastic counterparts. http://www.bladematrix.tv/ProductImages/E/EZLM.jpg Those are the SHIZ!! I carried one in my saddle bags for years when I was guiding elk hunts. They work like a champ. Yes sir - my ezelap has seen me through several elk out west and countless piggies here at home. I know they're a little slower than a flat stone, but you won't find anything more durable. |
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http://smithsedge.com/products/product.asp?id=24&cid=10 These are the best, IMO. 2 flat diamond surfaces, one coarse, one fine, and fish hook grooves. The whole thing folds up to the size of a candy bar, and it weighs little since it's mostly plastic. I have 2 of them, and I use them regularly for sharpening. The fine grit side is actually fine enough to put a good edge on a blade, and if you strop afterward, you can get a knife very sharp with this method. I have a little fanny pack survival kit I can just grab and go with for trips on the ATV, and one of these is in there along with the two knives I intend to sharpen with it. It's small enough to pack around, and the surfaces are flat and wide enough to use easily. It's no bench stone, but it beats a skinny little diamond rod or fiddling with clamps and screws in the field. |