Posted: 6/16/2015 12:24:36 AM EDT
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I had to clean my carburetor on my EU2000 which had been sitting for a few months. Jet was gummed up so I gave the entire carb a good cleaning and it cranks right up now. This unit since new has always needed the choke on for an extended warm-up (roughly 15 minutes) before running smoothly, however now it's starting to die out when I turn off the choke even after running the choke for an hour. What am I missing? Maybe a dirty spark arrestor?
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I had to clean my carburetor on my EU2000 which had been sitting for a few months. Jet was gummed up so I gave the entire carb a good cleaning and it cranks right up now. This unit since new has always needed the choke on for an extended warm-up (roughly 15 minutes) before running smoothly, however now it's starting to die out when I turn off the choke even after running the choke for an hour. What am I missing? Maybe a dirty spark arrestor? Thanks I had a similar issue a couple years ago before I discovered the solution and had to re-disassemble and re-clean the carb. The problem I've found is usually micro fine particulates getting 'cemented' into one particulat jet of the Honda 1000 and 2000 inverters. NOT the so-called "Bad Fuel" boogieman some folks like to attribute a lot of genny issues to. 
I would suggest removing the carb again and gently blowing out ALL the openings with compressed air. The residue doesn't seem to be affected by the usual gas additive components -like mineral spirits, Stoddard solvent, acetone, etc. Blowing with compressed air seems always to do the trick. I discovered the fine particles in the gas tank after my SO told me her 2000 wouldn't start, and after I had taken the carb out. Turned out it had only run out of gas. 
However, I got some inline fuel filters from the Honda dealer for a couple bucks each and installed them, now I never have an issue with the Bad Gas Fantasy, even after letting sit 6 months or 3 years -as in the case of out little EU1000 that I started up 2 weeks ago [after sitting for a couple years] for a trip in the Stealth Trailer. Alcohol laced fuel certainly seems to leave very little residue as it evaporates, unlike gasoline from years gone by. 
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Quoted:
I had a similar issue a couple years ago before I discovered the solution and had to re-disassemble and re-clean the carb. The problem I've found is usually micro fine particulates getting 'cemented' into one particulat jet of the Honda 1000 and 2000 inverters. NOT the so-called "Bad Fuel" boogieman some folks like to attribute a lot of genny issues to.
I would suggest removing the carb again and gently blowing out ALL the openings with compressed air. The residue doesn't seem to be affected by the usual gas additive components -like mineral spirits, Stoddard solvent, acetone, etc. Blowing with compressed air seems always to do the trick. I discovered the fine particles in the gas tank after my SO told me her 2000 wouldn't start, and after I had taken the carb out. Turned out it had only run out of gas.
However, I got some inline fuel filters from the Honda dealer for a couple bucks each and installed them, now I never have an issue with the Bad Gas Fantasy, even after letting sit 6 months or 3 years -as in the case of out little EU1000 that I started up 2 weeks ago [after sitting for a couple years] for a trip in the Stealth Trailer. Alcohol laced fuel certainly seems to leave very little residue as it evaporates, unlike gasoline from years gone by.
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I had to clean my carburetor on my EU2000 which had been sitting for a few months. Jet was gummed up so I gave the entire carb a good cleaning and it cranks right up now. This unit since new has always needed the choke on for an extended warm-up (roughly 15 minutes) before running smoothly, however now it's starting to die out when I turn off the choke even after running the choke for an hour. What am I missing? Maybe a dirty spark arrestor? Thanks I had a similar issue a couple years ago before I discovered the solution and had to re-disassemble and re-clean the carb. The problem I've found is usually micro fine particulates getting 'cemented' into one particulat jet of the Honda 1000 and 2000 inverters. NOT the so-called "Bad Fuel" boogieman some folks like to attribute a lot of genny issues to.
I would suggest removing the carb again and gently blowing out ALL the openings with compressed air. The residue doesn't seem to be affected by the usual gas additive components -like mineral spirits, Stoddard solvent, acetone, etc. Blowing with compressed air seems always to do the trick. I discovered the fine particles in the gas tank after my SO told me her 2000 wouldn't start, and after I had taken the carb out. Turned out it had only run out of gas.
However, I got some inline fuel filters from the Honda dealer for a couple bucks each and installed them, now I never have an issue with the Bad Gas Fantasy, even after letting sit 6 months or 3 years -as in the case of out little EU1000 that I started up 2 weeks ago [after sitting for a couple years] for a trip in the Stealth Trailer. Alcohol laced fuel certainly seems to leave very little residue as it evaporates, unlike gasoline from years gone by.
Appreciate the advice. I'll pull it apart again and blow out with compressed air. I need to order some spare parts for this thing also. |
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I think it'd be great if some of the longer term EU2000 owners would give a useful spare parts list. I drank the kool-aid on this about a year ago and have been very happy, but I've never had to touch the internals and worry about what spares I need on hand. Seek, we've owned EU1000's and 3000's since 2003, and 2000's from 2008 and never needed a spare part, that I can think of. Except adding the fuel filters for the issue the OP mentions. I do keep extra plugs for all of them, recoil asm and spare carb from ebay for the 2000's, sometimes a spare battery for the 3000, but it starts OK with the pull starter. One caution is not to go Redneck on the pull starters trying to prove something and shortening the life of the rope and mechanism. A little starting fluid [or gasoline in a syringe to put on the air filter] saves the rope and your arm, while getting the crankcase vacuum fuel pump system to fill the carb. Our EU3000 on the trailer is getting up in age, and I'd sort of expect the electrolytic capacitors in the inverter section to fail one of these days. Incidentally, I hadn't run it for a couple years and we brought the Stealth trailer out of mothballs a couple weeks ago for a 4000 mile plus trip we just safely completed and I'm going to do a thread on. The EU3000 had the ordinary alcohol fuel in it and started just fine. Needed a new battery to the tune of $70 tho, from W-Mart.
I noticed a couple times the 3000 getting the overcurrent light on when I turned the A-C off, but haven't diagnosed yet. I'm hoping the inverter isn't potted and is serviceable. It appeared to be easily accessible, when I changed the battery. |
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I've got motorcycles ( a moderate fleet) that will do that on occasion. As has been noted, there is likely a jet that is plugged.
This isn't "recommended" but over the years I've found a solution that works. I wouldn't want to do this with a $20,000 Ducati, but its fine for small engines.... Next time you swap strings on a guitar (or a friend does so), keep the fine unwound wires. I usually keep the 'eye' section and about 6 inches of wire. String them together. Now you've got a jet cleaning tool you can use to unplug the holes if and when you don't have compressed air. Fro |
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We have a couple 1000 light box units on our FD and some 3000 watt units to run fans. A couple are over 10 years old. I have a EU2000 which is coming up on 3 years old. We used it for sugarind and running power tools in the woods. It has worked great. The FD has switched to using real gas (non-ethanol) in their small engines. It has cut down on the maintenance, but we also run the engines monthly for testing. I have found a gas station which sells non-ethanol fuel and switched to using that exclusively in my small engines and as often as I can in my SXS. I still run all engines every few months at the minimum to avoid building up, which is likely what you have. I have found a couple times that I have "cleaned" the carb once only to have to really clean it again before it is working properly.
Mike |
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I think it'd be great if some of the longer term EU2000 owners would give a useful spare parts list. I drank the kool-aid on this about a year ago and have been very happy, but I've never had to touch the internals and worry about what spares I need on hand. for starters, see the EU2000i carb PDF linked here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/679145__ARCHIVED_THREAD____PSA__Service_and_run_your_generators_frequently.html&page=1#i11614413 ar-jedi |
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Expy, would you mind posting the part# and/or a pic of the fuel filter add on the 2k? Thx Slice, they look like these ones: Here Abt 1" in dia or less and short, a TAPERED profile. I looked in a genny and the nipple looks like 1/4". Only bought two pcs years ago so no bag with a part number. The filter looks like sintered bronze. Any thing else I can advise? Oh, to fit inside the EU2000, the length must be minimal. I installed them abt 2" from the fuel pump, top hose, if I'm remembering from looking a minute ago. Ebay has some nice synthetic small engine fuel line too... |
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Thanks Expy. Is the tapered shape necessary for it to fit? OP, sorry for the hijack. Important hi-jack
Not really Slice, but they need to be short so as not to pinch the fuel line that IIRC is 1/4" ID and flexible. Not the usual stiff reinforced hose from the auto supply. I'll try to remember to make a few calls for a part number. |
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Your air to fuel ratio is different.
That means its one of three things, airflow is different, fuel flow is different, or component orientation is different. Here's a couple hints, choke position is not choke lever position, its choke plate position. If your carb geled so did you fuel lines. Fuel additives are your friend both pre and post. SeaFoam is good stuff. Approach every problem from the macro, how it works, not just going through the motions. |
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I've got motorcycles ( a moderate fleet) that will do that on occasion. As has been noted, there is likely a jet that is plugged. This isn't "recommended" but over the years I've found a solution that works. I wouldn't want to do this with a $20,000 Ducati, but its fine for small engines.... Next time you swap strings on a guitar (or a friend does so), keep the fine unwound wires. I usually keep the 'eye' section and about 6 inches of wire. String them together. Now you've got a jet cleaning tool you can use to unplug the holes if and when you don't have compressed air. Fro Haven't read the thread past here, but our local motorcycle shop passed the following tip along to me and it worked like a charm. Buy a wire brush at the hardware store for less than a buck. The bristles should be around 1.5" - 2' long and there are hundreds of them on the brush. Pull a couple out with needle-nose and they are plenty long enough to work through most any jet. Even the tiny holes of pilot jets. |
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Expy, would you mind posting the part# and/or a pic of the fuel filter add on the 2k? Thx Here you go Slice... Part no 151912A Or: ITW FASTEX FUEL FILTER 701C Plenty on ebay if you search <<< that phrase... Some from China with same mfgr and pn, for abt $3 each. Here: Another Link: Filter 151912A Price at Honda $4.95 
Adding these solved my false 'bad fuel' issues, that were actually extremely fine silica dust ---AFAICT--- issues. Our genny's can sit a long time with fuel in them, incl fuel that was previously stored CORRECTLY ---a long time as well... Talking YEARS here... NO additives... And start just fine
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Here's the filter on Amazon for those of you that don't Ebay.
I have it and some polyurethane fuel hose on the way for a little upgrade to my EU2000. |
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Here's the filter on Amazon for those of you that don't Ebay. I have it and some polyurethane fuel hose on the way for a little upgrade to my EU2000. I'll take a pix of where I got it to fit... |
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Adding these solved my false 'bad fuel' issues, that were actually extremely fine silica dust ---AFAICT--- issues. Our genny's can sit a long time with fuel in them, incl fuel that was previously stored CORRECTLY ---a long time as well... Talking YEARS here... NO additives... And start just fine Pardon my hijack of the thread, but you mentioned above about fuel being stored correctly. Wouldn't you still need an additive to keep the fuel from separating and stable, or removing the water if there was a boo boo (technical term)? |
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Pardon my hijack of the thread, but you mentioned above about fuel being stored correctly. Wouldn't you still need an additive to keep the fuel from separating and stable, or removing the water if there was a boo boo (technical term)? Quoted:
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Adding these solved my false 'bad fuel' issues, that were actually extremely fine silica dust ---AFAICT--- issues. Our genny's can sit a long time with fuel in them, incl fuel that was previously stored CORRECTLY ---a long time as well... Talking YEARS here... NO additives... And start just fine Pardon my hijack of the thread, but you mentioned above about fuel being stored correctly. Wouldn't you still need an additive to keep the fuel from separating and stable, or removing the water if there was a boo boo (technical term)? With modern fuels, stored in proper containers so that important volatile fractions aren't lost... Mostly 'mineral spirit' comprised additives ---are only necessary if you are uncomfortable without taking your favorite security blanky to beddy-bye w/ you too... 
Just my opinion tho, I'm sure others have their own.
Expy/beddy blanky stolen from him when he was abt 14 YO and his pumpkin haircut was starting to grow out... |
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Pix of Honda 2000 that's never had snail oil inside it ----filter install.
Or the carb drained... Or run dry...
Starts every time now [technically, why wouldn't it??? ] that microscopic silica doesn't get cemented in one of the carb jets and has to be gently blown out. There's another one the same way my SO uses for the microwave at the container, after the mod, always a pleasure to start... Filter is to the top right of the air filter. Be careful not to kink the tubing, it's sorta difficult but can be done. 
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