Posted: 2/5/2015 5:08:22 PM EDT
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Hey all - I've read through this thread
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/674004_Baffled__Vented__Plumbed_Semi_portable_Generator_Enclosure_Build_Thread.html several times and tried to contact the OP but to no avail. I'm using it as my inspiration for an enclosure for my Champion 3500W which will be running off a propane line. My sound requirements aren't quite as stringent as I have 5 acres, but obviously it's still important. I'm thinking 3/4" MDF for the outside, 1/2" for the inner wall and baffles, and a stall mat for the bottom. I'm thinking about using two of the fans the OP first mentioned http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/19020189A/CR144-ND/ (550 CFM, 61W each, 49 dB each), one for the way in and one for the way out. I know they aren't strong enough for his application, but I'm thinking of building the baffle section 10" wide, which is as wide as the fans, and leaving a square 10"x10" hole at the end of each baffle, alternating, instead of drilling smaller holes. So my big question is this: If I do this and only 3 or 4 baffles for intake and exhaust each, are these fans powerful enough? I know better fans exist but I'm poor and these seem to be a good combination of price ($81 each), CFM, power consumption, and quietness. A good friend of mine builds enclosures for electric motors, and he recommended lining the inside surfaces with cheap drop-ceiling tiles for greater sound absorption. I'm thinking about a high-temp shutoff but not sure how to pull that off - I suppose ideally it should shut off the propane to kill the genny if its gets too hot - don't know if that exists or not. Anybody know about this? Also, is there any intelligent way to hinge part of this thing so I can roll the genny into it then shut it down, or will I have to just put the thing up on its end, then lower it over the genny once it's running? Sure appreciate it, all! |
| Hmm...not a bad idea but, and granted I'm talking out my butt, I wager that equipment sufficient to create that much sound would sap a big percentage, if not all of, the genny's output power. It's a delicate dance to add accessories such as fans, cutoffs, and anything else that requires power because it all works against the purpose of the generator, which is to create power. Things like fans are of course a necessary price to pay in power draw, but you get it. |
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Quoted: Hmm...not a bad idea but, and granted I'm talking out my butt, I wager that equipment sufficient to create that much sound would sap a big percentage, if not all of, the genny's output power. It's a delicate dance to add accessories such as fans, cutoffs, and anything else that requires power because it all works against the purpose of the generator, which is to create power. Things like fans are of course a necessary price to pay in power draw, but you get it. Waiting for appropriate folks to chime in that are knowledgeable on that one....
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To shut off the propane, there's a common 12 vdc solenoid valve used on forklifts, floor scrubbers, etc., that you can plumb into the fuel line.
Ebay probably is the best $ place to look. An attic fan thermostat is, maybe, the best choice and cost effective over-temp switch. |
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Quoted:
So my big question is this: If I do this and only 3 or 4 baffles for intake and exhaust each, are these fans powerful enough? I know better fans exist but I'm poor and these seem to be a good combination of price ($81 each), CFM, power consumption, and quietness. Quietness probably isn't going to be much of a problem. Just about any fan you might install is going to be considerably quieter than the generator - even when its inside your enclosure. Don't overlook ebay for good, cheap surplus fans - Typically, you can google the part number to get the specs. A good friend of mine builds enclosures for electric motors, and he recommended lining the inside surfaces with cheap drop-ceiling tiles for greater sound absorption. I've been toying around with the idea of using "memory" foam rubber as a sound absorber. Wal-Mart sells memory foam "mattress toppers" in various sizes and thicknesses. I'm thinking about a high-temp shutoff but not sure how to pull that off - I suppose ideally it should shut off the propane to kill the genny if its gets too hot - don't know if that exists or not. Anybody know about this? Might be able to use a Thermal Cutoff to detect overtemperature. Most cutoffs open up on overtemperature, which would work OK when wired in series with a propane gas control solenoid. Note that most engines already have an engine kill switch and low oil pressure switch - You could connect to that same wire to kill the engine during overtemperature. |
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Here's something I learned recently about propane and the need to filter it [at least some years ago] before the regulator.
Years ago in the 1980's I bought a used Clark forklift that was abt 20 years older than when I bought it. I was running a fairly new biz and didn't know beans abt forklifts or propane and was so busy I just bought the fork truck and didn't give any scrutiny to it. It was one of the smallest Clark made on 4 solid tires and had been converted to propane, with the tank mtd on the back over the counter weight. We never used it much, we had pallet racks in the warehouse and needed to move machines from time to time. In the 90's I replaced the generator with an internal regulator alternator. All these years I kept it, the new owners of the biz didn't want it and I was happy to have it. Usage all it's life with me was maybe a total of 40 hours -in 30 years. It always leaked some sort of fluids, brakes started leaking in the 90's and I replaced the master and 2 wheel cylinders, tranny leaked, but not too bad, we'd put something under it and it might sit for a year or two between uses. A few weeks ago, we needed to load a snow blower for a skid steer onto a trailer and it wouldn't start. So we managed to load the blower and a few days later we went and got the Clark started and loaded on the same trailer and took it to my shop. It was leaking pretty bad and a friend came over and I was getting ready to put it onto lifts to look underneath and my friend noticed some red tranny fluid on top of the transmission and I had seen it too but just figgered I had spilt it there. he said let's run it and low and behold the fluid was coming out between the two tranny case halves [there's an oil passage there sealed with a small O-ring that had dried out since the machine was built in the 1960's. To put this in perspective, that's like being built during the Civil War and fast forward to almost the Roaring Twenty's. So, he said sart it up and OMG the oil was coming out the top of the tranny. I'm such a dumb ass sometimes not to have suspected it was leaking there and running into an opening in the case and down to the floor. I had a manual from years ago and we could see the O-ring. So we pulled the tranny out -big job and I've rebuilt it and slowly putting it back together. Well what does this have to do with dirty propane. I discovered doing research for the work that all propane trucks have a filter and where the high pressure hose comes from the tank to a large fitting on the ftrame and then another hose to the engine, I couldn't find the filter. I also read stories on Practical Machinist where guys couldn't get their trucks to start and found the filter clogged. I couldn't find the filter on mine so I thought someone took it off somewhere's in its life. I had to buy a large socket to get the propane adapter block off so it could be cleaned and repainted. Turns out that when I unscrewed a fitting from the block there was a conical spring and a sintered bronze filter inserted in there that I was able to spray with trichlor and get out. It was black and nearly clogged from all the crap that must be in propane. Now, the lift trucks run liquid propane to what's called a Vaporizer that uses engine coolant to prevent the expanding vapor from freezing itself solid and stopping the engine. The fork truck propane filters are abt $25 and have standard 3/8 inch pipe threads and might be useful to add if you are using a propane genny a lot. |
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Ok - here's a lovely $13 solenoid.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solenoid-Valve-110V-115V-120V-DC-1-4-Inch-Electric-Air-Water-Gas-USA-Seller-/111549754553?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f8e22cb9 It's 120V, which I think would be easier since the fans are 120V as well. Only thing is it's 1/4" - do I need 1/2"? And as to where to put it...in the event of a fire, it might be better if this were right at the outside wall of the enclosure to keep any more fuel from entering the box...so is 1/4" big enough there? I put a Motor Snorkel conversion on it, and I seem to recall the regulator has a pretty big port on it - can look later tonight. Does it need 1/2" line or would 1/4" be enough? The attic fan thermostat's not a bad idea at all, but it of course would turn the circuit *on* when the temp gets high instead of the other way around; I'm sure some relay exists that could deal with that, buuuut...this thermal cutoff though. Would I just put this in-line on the positive wire going to the solenoid, and it cut off at a high temp? Of course it doesn't look like I could change that temp, so if there's a way to do the attic thermostat with a relay that might give me more flexibility. *BUT* - it has occurred to me that there might be a major problem here. If the solenoid is normally closed and only opens with power (which seems to be the safest approach), how would the genny get any propane to start? Many thanks, all! |
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Quoted: Here's something I learned recently about propane and the need to filter it [at least some years ago] before the regulator. Years ago in the 1980's I bought a used Clark forklift that was abt 20 years older than when I bought it. I was running a fairly new biz and didn't know beans abt forklifts or propane and was so busy I just bought the fork truck and didn't give any scrutiny to it. It was one of the smallest Clark made on 4 solid tires and had been converted to propane, with the tank mtd on the back over the counter weight. We never used it much, we had pallet racks in the warehouse and needed to move machines from time to time. In the 90's I replaced the generator with an internal regulator alternator. All these years I kept it, the new owners of the biz didn't want it and I was happy to have it. Usage all it's life with me was maybe a total of 40 hours -in 30 years. It always leaked some sort of fluids, brakes started leaking in the 90's and I replaced the master and 2 wheel cylinders, tranny leaked, but not too bad, we'd put something under it and it might sit for a year or two between uses. A few weeks ago, we needed to load a snow blower for a skid steer onto a trailer and it wouldn't start. So we managed to load the blower and a few days later we went and got the Clark started and loaded on the same trailer and took it to my shop. It was leaking pretty bad and a friend came over and I was getting ready to put it onto lifts to look underneath and my friend noticed some red tranny fluid on top of the transmission and I had seen it too but just figgered I had spilt it there. he said let's run it and low and behold the fluid was coming out between the two tranny case halves [there's an oil passage there sealed with a small O-ring that had dried out since the machine was built in the 1960's. To put this in perspective, that's like being built during the Civil War and fast forward to almost the Roaring Twenty's. So, he said sart it up and OMG the oil was coming out the top of the tranny. I'm such a dumb ass sometimes not to have suspected it was leaking there and running into an opening in the case and down to the floor. I had a manual from years ago and we could see the O-ring. So we pulled the tranny out -big job and I've rebuilt it and slowly putting it back together. Well what does this have to do with dirty propane. I discovered doing research for the work that all propane trucks have a filter and where the high pressure hose comes from the tank to a large fitting on the ftrame and then another hose to the engine, I couldn't find the filter. I also read stories on Practical Machinist where guys couldn't get their trucks to start and found the filter clogged. I couldn't find the filter on mine so I thought someone took it off somewhere's in its life. I had to buy a large socket to get the propane adapter block off so it could be cleaned and repainted. Turns out that when I unscrewed a fitting from the block there was a conical spring and a sintered bronze filter inserted in there that I was able to spray with trichlor and get out. It was black and nearly clogged from all the crap that must be in propane. Now, the lift trucks run liquid propane to what's called a Vaporizer that uses engine coolant to prevent the expanding vapor from freezing itself solid and stopping the engine. The fork truck propane filters are abt $25 and have standard 3/8 inch pipe threads and might be useful to add if you are using a propane genny a lot. |
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Quoted:
Ok - here's a lovely $13 solenoid. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solenoid-Valve-110V-115V-120V-DC-1-4-Inch-Electric-Air-Water-Gas-USA-Seller-/111549754553?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f8e22cb9 *BUT* - it has occurred to me that there might be a major problem here. If the solenoid is normally closed and only opens with power (which seems to be the safest approach), how would the genny get any propane to start? Many thanks, all! A manual bypass to route around the valve would be an option to allow you to start, you will need to manually close it after starting. |
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Quoted:
A manual bypass to route around the valve would be an option to allow you to start, you will need to manually close it after starting. Quoted:
Quoted:
Ok - here's a lovely $13 solenoid. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solenoid-Valve-110V-115V-120V-DC-1-4-Inch-Electric-Air-Water-Gas-USA-Seller-/111549754553?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f8e22cb9 *BUT* - it has occurred to me that there might be a major problem here. If the solenoid is normally closed and only opens with power (which seems to be the safest approach), how would the genny get any propane to start? Many thanks, all! A manual bypass to route around the valve would be an option to allow you to start, you will need to manually close it after starting. That might be the best way, and use a spring return to 'Off' valve for fail safe. This gives a diagnostic means also. Another way if OP's genny is battery start is to use the 12vdc from the battery to operate. Still another idea is to use a quality trickle charger [like a small smart Vector] that operates off the generated 120vac to keep the battery well charged, in addition to the usual genny charge circuit. |
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Quoted: *BUT* - it has occurred to me that there might be a major problem here. If the solenoid is normally closed and only opens with power (which seems to be the safest approach), how would the genny get any propane to start? Many thanks, all! Temporary manual bypass valve would work.
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All good ideas, but this genny is pull-start only, no battery. It's the Cabelas-branded Champion 4000/3500. Since there's no battery, I'd like to try to stay 120v if I can because otherwise I need to introduce transformers, etc. into the equation to run 12V accessories, but since the fans are 120v, it makes sense to do that.
Any opinions about trying to use a relay to reverse the function of the attic fan thermostat? I googled "opposite relay" but apparently that's not a thing. I'm laying out plans - is 6" between the genny and the walls sufficient? If so, I'm looking at a 36"x30"x26" box just for the initial enclosure, then adding 10"-wide baffles gives a 56"x50"x26" finished product...dang that is gonna weight a lot! Oh well - if it does its job well, so be it... |
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Quoted:
All good ideas, but this genny is pull-start only, no battery. It's the Cabelas-branded Champion 4000/3500. Since there's no battery, I'd like to try to stay 120v if I can because otherwise I need to introduce transformers, etc. into the equation to run 12V accessories, but since the fans are 120v, it makes sense to do that. Any opinions about trying to use a relay to reverse the function of the attic fan thermostat? I googled "opposite relay" but apparently that's not a thing. I'm laying out plans - is 6" between the genny and the walls sufficient? If so, I'm looking at a 36"x30"x26" box just for the initial enclosure, then adding 10"-wide baffles gives a 56"x50"x26" finished product...dang that is gonna weight a lot! Oh well - if it does its job well, so be it... No reason not to use 120V fans. For high temp shut off head straight to your local appliance parts store and get a High Temp cutoff for a clothes dryer. They are called Snap Disc switches. You want a normally open switch. Here I Googled them for you. Snap DIsc Switches Since your genny uses a recoil start you will have to find the wire the going to the engine shut off switch and parallel your high temp switch. It should just ground one wire to shut off spark. For propane shut off get a normally closed 120v valve. You will have to do some plumbing to add a spring loaded manual bypass valve around the electric valve so you can start the genny. |
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If you are electroinics savvy, you can make a circuit with a temperature switch that you "program" (with a resistor) to turn on/off a fan only when it get as hot as you program. Just base it off of a TC622EPA sensor, or the like. They make single trip point and dual trip point, different voltages. All runs off DC power, but you should have DC power once your genny fires up.
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Quoted:
All good ideas, but this genny is pull-start only, no battery. It's the Cabelas-branded Champion 4000/3500. Since there's no battery, I'd like to try to stay 120v if I can because otherwise I need to introduce transformers, etc. into the equation to run 12V accessories, but since the fans are 120v, it makes sense to do that. Any opinions about trying to use a relay to reverse the function of the attic fan thermostat? I googled "opposite relay" but apparently that's not a thing. I'm laying out plans - is 6" between the genny and the walls sufficient? If so, I'm looking at a 36"x30"x26" box just for the initial enclosure, then adding 10"-wide baffles gives a 56"x50"x26" finished product...dang that is gonna weight a lot! Oh well - if it does its job well, so be it... If you use the close on high temp of an attic fan switch, and ground one side and connect the other to the ignition shut-off wire, no relay should be necessary. Also, some fan switches may use a standard SPDT micro switch actuated by the thermal device --and so you have the best of both worlds, having NC and NO contacts. You'd need to inspect the switch before you buy it. |
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Quoted:
If you are electroinics savvy, you can make a circuit with a temperature switch that you "program" (with a resistor) to turn on/off a fan only when it get as hot as you program. Just base it off of a TC622EPA sensor, or the like. They make single trip point and dual trip point, different voltages. All runs off DC power, but you should have DC power once your genny fires up. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RMDZVNO?psc=1 programmable PID controller + SSR (solid state relay) + K type thermocouple sensor for US$32. ar-jedi |
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Ordering PID package now! Brilliant. Thanks for all the good ideas guys but I am well aware of my technical limitations - having it all right there is magnificent. Wonder what the cutoff should be - maybe 120F? Guess I should run it a bit once it's all built and see where it likes to stay.
Yes, I'll have the fans running full time - the cutoff is only for the propane supply line in the event of either excessive heat or fire. I have run the genny, and I've had it behind the house, so the only sound in front of the house was reflected sound from the back woods. I was impressed with how relatively quiet this thing is in the first place but also how quickly the sound dropped off. BUT, when the power is out, especially after a few days, a running genny is the loudest sound in the world, and I'd like to avoid that even though the neighbors are not close. I'm technically in a subdivision though in my section we're spaced well apart but the houses are pretty close together a quarter of a mile away, so I'd rather keep some OPSEC. |
So here's the output panel on my genny:
I know I need 240v to feed the main panel of my house, but I want 120 for the fans; granted, the outlet on the left does say 240/120. Do I need some sort of step-down transformer to run the fans from that side? I found lots of the type that one uses in Europe while traveling, but I'm sure there's something better to use. But it does say 240/120...what exactly does that mean? Would be great if I could run both the 240 and the 120 outlets at once but it appears I can't do that. Thanks for the input, guys. |
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With the switch in the "240 volt" position, the 120/240 volt outlet has (wait for it!) both 120 and 240 volts present on it - depending on which outlet prongs you connect to.
Black (Line 1) or Red (Line 2) to White = 120 volts Black (Line 1) to Red (Line 2) = 240 volts So, you can connect your 120 volt fan(s) to the outlet while still feeding your home with 240 volts, although you might need to build a short adapter cord to tap into it. |
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Quoted:
With the switch in the "240 volt" position, the 120/240 volt outlet has (wait for it!) both 120 and 240 volts present on it - depending on which outlet prongs you connect to. Black (Line 1) or Red (Line 2) to White = 120 volts Black (Line 1) to Red (Line 2) = 240 volts So, you can connect your 120 volt fan(s) to the outlet while still feeding your home with 240 volts, although you might need to build a short adapter cord to tap into it. ^^^ that. you can see from the schematic in this thread, http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/668846_Champion_generator_model_46598_3_5KW_running___4_0KW_surge___observations__details__and_photos.html that when the 240Vac setting is selected on the switch, the 120Vac outlets are disabled. btw, the 240Vac setting is actually 120Vac/240Vac, which is exactly what appears out the 4 conductor outlet on the left side, and in the manner per Skibane's notes above. ar-jedi |
| I was particularly impressed with the Enclosure in this post of a previous generator thread. It is my intention to build something very similar this spring. |
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Do you really need an intake and exhaust fan? Why not two intake fans, the positive pressure will push out the exhaust. That's a valid point. The exhaust side can get pretty hot, which could shorten a fan motor's lifespan - Not a problem if the fan is drawing in cool outdoor air instead. On many non-enclosed, portable generators, the engine draws in cool air from the front, and the alternator draws in cool air in from the back. The hot air from both parts exits near the middle. Ideally, any electric fans you install would move air in those same directions, rather than working against them. |
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This is all gold, guys. Sure appreciate you sharing.
Wild that the one plug does both! Unfortunately I don't have the equipment or wisdom to make my own split cable, and all the ones I'm finding online split a 240v into two 120s...is there a commercial one I can buy or is this something my electrician can whip together when I've got him here to wire all the other stuff on the panel? Thanks again, guys! I'll be raising my glass to you all during our first spring weather-induced power outage! |
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Absolutely. I'd need a male L14-30R to come off the genny, and I'd need a female L14-30R to hook to the inlet box. As far as the 120 coming off of it, I wouldn't care if it was just two wires since the fans just have two prongs coming out of the housing, so no plug needed there.
So I was thinking...perhaps I just get a male/female L14-30R cable, cut it open, and wire nut in two leads from the black and white wires to give me the 120 for the fans. I can't help but think it would somewhat compromise the integrity of the cable, but if it's all inside the enclosure anyway, having the cable sheath intact probably wouldn't be as important. If anybody has any doubt, I am 100% talking out my ass here, so feel free to correct me on any and every error in my thought process. Thx all! |
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Quoted:
Absolutely. I'd need a male L14-30R to come off the genny, and I'd need a female L14-30R to hook to the inlet box. As far as the 120 coming off of it, I wouldn't care if it was just two wires since the fans just have two prongs coming out of the housing, so no plug needed there. So I was thinking...perhaps I just get a male/female L14-30R cable, cut it open, and wire nut in two leads from the black and white wires to give me the 120 for the fans. I can't help but think it would somewhat compromise the integrity of the cable, but if it's all inside the enclosure anyway, having the cable sheath intact probably wouldn't be as important. If anybody has any doubt, I am 100% talking out my ass here, so feel free to correct me on any and every error in my thought process. Thx all! If your cable with the two mentioned NEMA plugs/receptacles has the connectors molded to the cord, A possible way to do what you want is to cut the cable and terminate the cut ends into most any metal electrical box of sufficient size, wire nut the connections inside it, and add the third cable for the fans. Of course, strain reliefs [the cheap metal ones] for the cords can be added, and maybe even add an inline or box mounted 5 amp fuse for circuit protection for the fan cord. |
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Truth to be sure, die-tryin. SF has actually made a pretty major difference in my life; in the three years I've been paying attention to it, I've come a LONG way towards being more prepared. I don't quite have the Duckbeard or run my home on full solar so the .gov can't hear me through the outlets, but I've made several substantial changes thanks to this place and people have been a huge help.
Soooo...I'm looking at inlet boxes and breakers for the panel. I'm running the Champion 3500/4000w on propane, and I'm fuzzy on what amperage would be appropriate for inlet box and panel breakers. I'll be taking 240 from the genny to power the panel, so 240x20A would give me 4800 watts...would that cut it? Or do I need a 30A inlet box/breaker to give a cushion? The genny does have two 15A breakers on it as well as one 20A, so I'm guessing 20 is the magic number. Would I go with that for both the inlet box and panel breaker? Do I need to split this into two breakers at the panel? I've seen a variety of stuff online but hate to be wrong when it comes to electrical :/ Thanks all! |
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Truth to be sure, die-tryin. SF has actually made a pretty major difference in my life; in the three years I've been paying attention to it, I've come a LONG way towards being more prepared. I don't quite have the Duckbeard or run my home on full solar so the .gov can't hear me through the outlets, but I've made several substantial changes thanks to this place and people have been a huge help. Soooo...I'm looking at inlet boxes and breakers for the panel. I'm running the Champion 3500/4000w on propane, and I'm fuzzy on what amperage would be appropriate for inlet box and panel breakers. I'll be taking 240 from the genny to power the panel, so 240x20A would give me 4800 watts...would that cut it? Or do I need a 30A inlet box/breaker to give a cushion? The genny does have two 15A breakers on it as well as one 20A, so I'm guessing 20 is the magic number. Would I go with that for both the inlet box and panel breaker? Do I need to split this into two breakers at the panel? I've seen a variety of stuff online but hate to be wrong when it comes to electrical :/ Thanks all! the go-to generator inlets are the Reliance PB30 and Reliance PB50. as you can guess from the names, these support 30A and 50A per leg, respectively. PB30 = 30A per leg, x 2 legs x 120Vac = 7,200W max generator. PB50 = 50A per leg, x 2 legs x 120Vac = 12,000W max generator. as you can see, the PB30 supports a typical large "portable" generator. and accordingly the PB50 supports just about anything this side of a standby diesel. obviously the PB30 and PB50 conductor prong setups are different, and 30A inlets don't mate with 50A generator cords, and vice versa. regarding the interior wiring... the PB30 requires a 4 conductor 10AWG cable connection to the service panel; this is commonly available in the electrical aisle at HD or Lowes. the primary downside of using the PB50 is that it requires a 4 conductor 6AWG cable connection to the service panel, and such cabling is quite expensive. regarding the interlocked breaker rating... the PB30 would be mated with a dual pole, handle-tied 30A rated breaker. the PB50 would be mated with a dual pole, handle-tied 50A rated breaker. in terms of installed cost, there is no big difference between the two inlets if the inlet is quite near the service panel; there is a huge difference if you have a 50' run between the inlet and panel. note that you can use a PB50 with a small generator; in fact i have a PB50 inlet which i use with a Honda EU2000i 2KW generator. however that same inlet can also be used for a large, 10KW generator as well. for details on why you may want to take this sort of approach, see http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/661411_Sandy____12_days_without_power__what_worked__what_didn_t____.html for your application (4KW) a PB30 would be sufficient, and a PB50 would provide you future capacity if in fact you ever would need more than 7200W of emergency power. just note that 7200W and above generators suck fuel like there is no tomorrow -- so this is yet another case where you can't have your cake and eat it too. below are shown a PB30 and PB50. until you pull the cover open you can not tell them apart, as they share the same basic enclosure. http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-PB30-Generator-Generators/dp/B000BQT47S http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-PB50-Generator-Generators/dp/B000HRWGBW ar-jedi PB30 
PB50 
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ARJ, this is PERFECT. I've got at least a 30' run between inlet and panel, so I think I'll just go with 30A and 10AWG. That will more than handle my little 4kW. Once again, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. I also read your Sandy account, and it was very interesting and informative. Meanwhile, GF's parents are at each others' throats because their "prepping" for TN's little ice storm began the day of and consisted of a trip to the dollar store for soup and cold cuts................last night we ate ribeye in front of a roaring fire. And although the power was out here for a total of ten seconds, it's got me determined to get this project done so it's fully ready next time.
Thank you again! |