Posted: 5/24/2012 6:14:53 AM EDT
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Not a whole lot, and I'm not certain exactly from where, but thought I would throw it out there as a heads up to anybody else who might have theirs out of sight and out of mind on a shelf in the garage with gas in it. Fuel petcock turned off, so it's either leaking from the line prior to the petock, or the petcock is not sealing properly and it has refilled the carb bowl and leaking from their. I'll update when I Go In, likely not until after our move here. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Where is the fuel dripping from? The petcock or the carb bowl? There's also a sediment/water separator on the bottom of the petcock. It has a cap with a cast hex nut and an internal O-ring to seal it, but it should only be capable of leaking with the fuel turned on. |
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Fuel petcock turned off, so it's either leaking from the line prior to the petock, or the petcock is not sealing properly and it has refilled the carb bowl and leaking from their. Check the tightness of the petcock where it threads into the bottom of the gas tank. It's a VERY common cause of fuel leaks on Chinese generators. |
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Fuel petcock turned off, so it's either leaking from the line prior to the petock, or the petcock is not sealing properly and it has refilled the carb bowl and leaking from their. Check the tightness of the petcock where it threads into the bottom of the gas tank. It's a VERY common cause of fuel leaks on Chinese generators. That really surprises me (and it shouldn't). I have always assumed these used some form of tapered pipe thread, which–– when tightened properly–– should make a pretty robust vibration-resistant seal. Do you know if these threads are tapered or straight? OP, if you need to re-tighten the petcock in the bung on the bottom of the fuel tank you might consider removing it completely and using a fuel-rated sealant like Rector Seal in the threads. Since you'd also need to remove the fuel line you might take the time to add an inline fuel filter. |
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I have always assumed these used some form of tapered pipe thread, which–– when tightened properly–– should make a pretty robust vibration-resistant seal. Do you know if these threads are tapered or straight? IIRC, the seal is made with a rubber or plastic gasket (or O-ring) - not with the threads themselves. |
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I have always assumed these used some form of tapered pipe thread, which–– when tightened properly–– should make a pretty robust vibration-resistant seal. Do you know if these threads are tapered or straight? IIRC, the seal is made with a rubber or plastic gasket (or O-ring) - not with the threads themselves. Thanks–– that's good to know. OP–– don't use Rector Seal on straight threads. 
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Update - drained gas to prepare for moving, and I could see that it was leaking from the silver nut/bung/whatever entering the tank. Looks like it is probably the o-ring issue mentioned above. It's empty now, so no more drippage. I'll update again when I get around to doing something about it. |