Posted: 9/13/2011 12:04:04 PM EDT
EDIT: Just saw die-tryin's trailer build thread....
Hello Fellas: Don't post much at all unless I can help out with first hand knowledge or experience but I have read and learned a whole lot from you guys here on the SF- thanks. Anyway, as my son and I have begun to do alot of campouts in primitive sites / forest road sites ( I DETEST campgrounds), and hauling all the gear we have amassed is getting old. I started to research small trailers and discovered a whole niche industry that builds small, off road trailers commonly called "expedition" or "adventure" trailers. These things are usually 4 x 6 or 4 x 8 and typically consist of a main cargo box with smaller lockers on the sides and a tougue box on the front. Owners usually customize them with rooftop tents (RTTs), scepter & propane cans strapped to the frames, tool carriers (hi lift jacks, shovels, axes etc..), custom kitchen compartments and on and on. Well, I just cut a deal for a used one and can't wait to get my hands on it so I can modify it for our needs. I plan on making several long trips in the next few years to visit national parks and national forests and I wanted a rig that could be used to keep us self sustained for up to 2 weeks. I settled on Outlander Trailers as the design lends itself very well for customizing. Its basically a 4 x 6 rectangular frame with a main cargo box of 4 x 4 x 2 and 2 smaller side boxes 1 x 1 x 3. Obviously this rig has SHTF benefits for a city boy like me (live just outside NYC in NJ) that currently has no BOL to go to if things get ugly. This is of course a short-term solution but its primary purpose is to be my mule for all my gear. Off the top of my head I want to remove the current side boxes and install much larger side boxes and then build them out with a custom made galley on one sidebox and on board power in the other sidebox via a small genny (Honda 1000 or 2000?) and perhaps a deep cell battery system (don't know much about that @ the moment). I'll move the existing ones to the front (they are PERFECT for storing carbine sized rifles  ) and install propane carriers on the back fender wells. Also, there is a front open cargo area that I would like to install a high
quality ice chest and perhaps custom fab a 30 or 40 gallon stainless steel fresh water tank. A top mounted tent would be nice but I'll leave that for last as I have a kick-ass ground tent that we love. What do you guys think? Any thought on what you would do to this puppy? I would love to hear what youse guys gotta say.... This is the one I got: 
Here are some others all fleshed out: 
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Very impressive. How much does something like that cost? New? 3, 5 or 7K depending on the options chosen...http://outlandertrailers.us/OT/Home.html I have the Sherpa ll Intermediate model - I paid $3,100 used. |
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Very cool. I came really close to taking that approach but obvously went a different route. I gotta sit and read the whole thread on your build - I have no doubt that I will pepper you with many questions ! Yea no problem. We just "winged" it on that build, learning curve wasnt too bad. The biggest thing is to plan things out as best as you can. Figure out what you want the trailer/camper to do and then go from there. Be realistic with it. I know my camper is small, so with that there are limitations, I was aware of that from the beginning. Quoted:
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Very impressive. How much does something like that cost? New? 3, 5 or 7K depending on the options chosen...http://outlandertrailers.us/OT/Home.html I have the Sherpa ll Intermediate model - I paid $3,100 used. Not too bad. Ive seen them get up in the 10-12k range when you starting adding full electrical systems and solar. If I were go the "utility" trailer route, I would still have one built from scratch, you even said it yourself you have to modify the one you got. But sometimes its easier to start with SOMETHING, as apposed to NOTHING like I did in my trailer build. But honestly, I wouldnt have it any other way. |
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D-T,
I hear you on both points - I am tapped on disposable funds now that I bought the thing but the flip side is that I will have some time to lay out how I want to modify it while I save some scratch to make it happen (unless the xmas bonus is mo betta this year). Honestly I dont have the welding tools, skillz or space/shop to build it from scratch so this little trailer will serve as a blank canvas of sorts. My initial plan is to buy two 18 x 18 x 48 inch weathergaurd - type truck boxes and hang them either side of the trailer AFTER I remove and relocate the existing ones. |
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Very cool! Is there room to install a generator in there? Edit. Looks like that's in the plan. You might want to consider powered coolers as opposed to icebox style ones. While the trailer is hooked to the vehicle it's powered, and detached it would function like a regular cooler or you could run it off a generator. |
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Very cool! Is there room to install a generator in there? Edit. Looks like that's in the plan. You might want to consider powered coolers as opposed to icebox style ones. While the trailer is hooked to the vehicle it's powered, and detached it would function like a regular cooler or you could run it off a generator. Alolt of folks that have this type of rig have micro fridges so yes, I have looked at them but I need to learn more about on-board battery systems. My big fear is tying in my vehicle's battery to the trailer and being stuck 15 miles down a forest road withe a dead battery. I gotta learn more about low - volt systems before I commit to a battery set-up. Thanks for the recommendation thou _ i will definitely keep an open mind on the topic. |
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Very cool! Is there room to install a generator in there? Edit. Looks like that's in the plan. You might want to consider powered coolers as opposed to icebox style ones. While the trailer is hooked to the vehicle it's powered, and detached it would function like a regular cooler or you could run it off a generator. Alolt of folks that have this type of rig have micro fridges so yes, I have looked at them but I need to learn more about on-board battery systems. My big fear is tying in my vehicle's battery to the trailer and being stuck 15 miles down a forest road withe a dead battery. I gotta learn more about low - volt systems before I commit to a battery set-up. Thanks for the recommendation thou _ i will definitely keep an open mind on the topic. Fortunately those battery jump boxes are small, portable and independent of anything else. If you misjudge and wear down your battery you can use one of them to get your truck going again. Cheap insurance!! |
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My big fear is tying in my vehicle's battery to the trailer and being stuck 15 miles down a forest road withe a dead battery. Travel trailer owners deal with this problem on a daily basis. The solution is to install a separate "house" battery in the trailer, connected to the tow vehicle's battery through a relay. The relay is wired so that the trailer battery is only connected to the tow vehicle battery when the engine is running - as soon as you shut off the ignition, the batteries are isolated from each other. So, even if you run the trailer battery down completely, the battery in the tow vehicle still has a full charge to start the engine. |
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Oso & Ski: Thanks for the suggestions - I'll just have to get smarter about on-board power options. I think there will be room on this rig for both a small honda inverter and a battery system.
I'll look out for a "Low Voltage Power Systems for Dummies" next time I'm at the bookstore 
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As far as battery options and power options. I just went thru this.
You can connect tow vehicle to trailer to charge it, but you need an ISOLATOR so you dont kill your Tow vehicle battery. Im running Dual batts on my Blazer so ive always got a backup incase I kill my primary battery. They make 7 pin trailer wiring to do this, but that wire is pretty small, I would run dedicated cables from Tow vehicle to Trailer just for this purpose. Also on my trailer, Ive got a Battery charger and an outlet on the outside, so I can hook up to campsites, home or even a generator to charge my batteries. The trailer has 2 deep cycle batteries. For a camper do not use regular car batteries, they are designed to start a vehicle and nothing else really. Deep cycle are designed to be drawn down and then charged up, just have to charge em slow. Ive got a 1.5amp charger, while slow, itll help the batteries in the long run. Venting. Where ever you store your batteries, make sure there is some kind of vent. When batteries charge they put off a gas and in confined space can lead to bad things. There are tons of diagrams on how to set up a camper for 12vdc and 110/120vac. |
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There are a bunch of trailers currently on the .gov liquidation website (auctions start on/about the 27th) right here at Ft Hood. M105a2s, M101a2s, and some just listed as .75 ton trailers. Which type do I want if I'm going to pull it behind a F250? http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/endecaSearch?Ntt=US_TX|2330|10163|2330011024697&Ntk=P_Auction_Country_State|P_FSC_Code|P_Event_Id|P_NSN&Ntx=mode+matchany|mode+matchany|mode+matchany|mode+matchany&N=0&Nty=1&Ns=P_Lot_Number|0&location_munged=US_TX&FSCCode=2330&event_munged=10163&NSN=2330011024697&perPage=30&cmd=keyword Link might not work for others - I searched under Texas-> Bell County ->Ft Hood location, and "trailer" keyword. |
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. There are a bunch of trailers currently on the .gov liquidation website (auctions start on/about the 27th) right here at Ft Hood. M105a2s, M101a2s, and some just listed as .75 ton trailers. Which type do I want if I'm going to pull it behind a F250? http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/endecaSearch?Ntt=US_TX|2330|10163|2330011024697&Ntk=P_Auction_Country_State|P_FSC_Code|P_Event_Id|P_NSN&Ntx=mode+matchany|mode+matchany|mode+matchany|mode+matchany&N=0&Nty=1&Ns=P_Lot_Number|0&location_munged=US_TX&FSCCode=2330&event_munged=10163&NSN=2330011024697&perPage=30&cmd=keyword Link might not work for others - I searched under Texas-> Bell County ->Ft Hood location, and "trailer" keyword. The ".75 ton rated" trailers are M101A2s. In my opinion, the M101A2/A3 trailers are most ideally proportionately sized for a full size pickup truck. For reference, here is my M101A2 behind my Dodge Ram: 
Personally, I would prefer a M101A3 and will buy one if I one comes along at a good deal. |