Posted: 6/20/2010 5:48:53 PM EDT
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Ok I think my next item needs to be a generator. I figure that I have 3 items that need to be run, my fridge, freezer and heater. A window ac unit would be nice in the summer if needed. Here is what I have figured out so far.
Freezer 5.0 amps 115V for 575 watts Fridge 6.5 amps 115V 750 watts Forced air heater 60,000 BTU Trane XB80 which I believe runs at 9.1 amps 120V 1092 watts. I think this is right but not sure. So every thing says you need 3X the running watts for start up so I figure at least 3000 watts to start the heater. I would probably go with say a 5000 watt genny so I could run both the fridge and freezer at the same time with a light or two then run the heater or AC unit and a light or two. Sound reasonable? How would you hook this up to the house? I have an old house and not sure it would be worth it to put a lot of money and work to the fuse box, maybe it wouldn't take much just not sure about how this works. I figure the fridge and freezer could be run with cords but how about the heater? |
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Assume 120 volts for everything and check the current of the motors of the items you want to start up. Instantaneous current to start up a static motor is at least 3 or 4 times the running current, so make sure that you add up all those draws and that the gennie can supply that as an instantaneous load. For under $100 you can buy an clamp meter that'll measure the current n' such and see what each appliance actually draws through it's power cord. Power = Voltage x current
As for hook-up, you could just buy a few long heavy-duty extension cords. Alternatively, put a second breaker box next to your current one and wire-in a proper external connection to it. Then set it up such that when you turn off the "main" breaker, only the circuits you want running (ex. the fridge and a few lights) will recieve power. You then crank up your gennie, and switch that power over to your house circuits. Note that this switch should be a mechanical make-or-break switch to ensure that the main power in isn't on at the same time the generator is sending power. I think you can proably see something like this at any generator installation companys site. I've had my gennie set up like this for 4 years now and except for the fact it's gas powered (I can get a natural gas conversion kit for it), I'm happy with the arrangement. The only thing that kinda worries me is that folk who aren't prepared will hear the generator and flock to it like flies on poo. |
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Quoted:
It can take up to 3x the running wattage in addition to the running wattage to start reactive or inductive loads (think electric motors)... dead or resistive loads (think heating elements) have no surge requirements (they require NO additional energy to start them)...
So every thing says you need 3X the running watts for start up so I figure at least 3000 watts to start the heater. I would probably go with say a 5000 watt genny so I could run both the fridge and freezer at the same time with a light or two then run the heater or AC unit and a light or two. Sound reasonable? Based on your modest requirements you should be able to run everything on 3000 watts. You could even get a smaller generator (probably around 2000 watts) if you are willing to manually turn devices off and on and not run everything at the same time... Of course, with a little larger gen (say 4000 or 5000 watts) you can run everything you mentioned and a few other things like light bulbs, TV, DVD player, etc. without pushing your gen to its limit... Your call... |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
It can take up to 3x the running wattage in addition to the running wattage to start reactive or inductive loads (think electric motors)... dead or resistive loads (think heating elements) have no surge requirements (they require NO additional energy to start them)...
So every thing says you need 3X the running watts for start up so I figure at least 3000 watts to start the heater. I would probably go with say a 5000 watt genny so I could run both the fridge and freezer at the same time with a light or two then run the heater or AC unit and a light or two. Sound reasonable? Based on your modest requirements you should be able to run everything on 3000 watts. You could even get a smaller generator (probably around 2000 watts) if you are willing to manually turn devices off and on and not run everything at the same time... Of course, with a little larger gen (say 4000 or 5000 watts) you can run everything you mentioned and a few other things like light bulbs, TV, DVD player, etc. without pushing your gen to its limit... Your call... +1 I think I'd go with 3500 watts surge at least 4K.... a gasoline generator this size will burn about 4 tenths of a gallon per hour. Smaller generators would have to work harder. And would not really be advantageous on fuel consumption unless the load was about 1/3 of the rated output. |
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last year, we ran a 5000 watt generator, and ran the follorwing. we ran this setup for 15 days.
2 refridgerators 2 freezers 2 tvs, internet and two laptops a couple of lamps plus the microwave, and coffee pot. this was pretty much max, plus we were using 100" light gauge power cords... it worked out well, and burned 5 gallons every 12 hours approx. i have since upgraded my genny to a 8000-12000 watt genny. which will be getting a plug wired up soon. all the heat was done with kerosene stoves, and cooking on camping propane stoves. with the larger genny im planning to add the hot water heater, which will be a big luxury... with all that were snug.. |
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This is what I have. I dont do shit like this myself because I would burn the house down, I called an electrician. Its not a transfer switch but pretty dumb proof. http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/blacksuit99/000_1392.jpg http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/blacksuit99/3.jpg http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/blacksuit99/5.jpg Blacksuit, that's sheer genius right there. Poor man's transfer switch! I don't guess you can tell me where to get my hands on one of those little slider-upper-and-downer thingamajigs?? I can't quite make out the markings on it. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
This is what I have. I dont do shit like this myself because I would burn the house down, I called an electrician. Its not a transfer switch but pretty dumb proof. http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/blacksuit99/000_1392.jpg http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/blacksuit99/3.jpg http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/blacksuit99/5.jpg Blacksuit, that's sheer genius right there. Poor man's transfer switch! I don't guess you can tell me where to get my hands on one of those little slider-upper-and-downer thingamajigs?? I can't quite make out the markings on it. Google generator interlock kit 
Here's one |
| That be it. I had it put in several years ago after we had a big ice storm that hit oklahoma/kansas. We lost power for about 1.5 weeks. At the time I didnt have a generator or anyway to heat the house and it got cold quick. Lucky for us Home Depot got a shipment of generators in while we were there, and they went quick. Then I had to wait about a day for an electrician to come hard wire into the panel box... We were running extention cords. Limbs actually slightly damaged our old panel box so I had a new one put in and figured it was a good time to have the interlock and plug in installed. I am not near smart enough to wire it up myself. I figure Ill feel pretty smart when the power goes out again and I have the gennie hooked up in about 3 minutes...lol. Also for the op, we could run the whole house without a problem with this 6750/8500 watt generator. It does suck alot of gas but I just bought a Harbor Freight 800/900 watt generator to help with that. |
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I ran my whole house on a small gen, cant remember if its 1500 watts. Of course thats only the fridge and all lights. Its one of those tiny portable ones. I do have a huge one and I have a transfer switch, can power everything and a window ac but it sounds weird when running. The big one I use is maybe 5000 watts cant remember. Its an old beast probably 20 years old so its loud and only runs at one speed. I put on a car muffler to make it quieter so most of the noise now are the clacking of the mechanical parts. I made an outdoor enclosure for it. Not SHTF friendly as its loud but when we lost power for 4 hours it worked great when the whole neighborhood was in the dark.
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