Posted: 1/18/2009 4:27:51 PM EDT
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Got my trees, now in planning stages for planting-
The trees are full sized. Is there a standard spacing distance and arrangement for optimal production in apples? What do I need to know about pest control/spraying? TIA- Hobbit |
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google fruit tree spacing, there is a formula where you type in rootstock, irrigation, care, sun, etc. and it tells you in feet how far apart. What kind of rootstock you got?
AHa, you say full sized so seedling? I'd say 15 by 20 would do...but you know, you supposed to do the planning long before you take delivery... 
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The plan was a hasty one- picked up a couple of trees at an end-of-season sale. I have some spare ground that wasn't producing anything but more grass to cut, so I figured I might as well make it useful.
To be honest, I didn't even know that apples needed different types to cross-pollenate when I got the first trees. [My other experiences? Blueberries, which do need multiple varieties; and figs and pears, which don't. Go figure.] -Hobbit |
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Recommended distance for apples (std) is frequently 25-30 feet. Intead of spacing them on an exact grid, try rows that are staggered: Plant one row, with trees at o, 25, 50, 75, etc. Start second row. Plant first tree at 12.5', 37.5', etc. Try to plant rows as straight as humanly possible. It does help when its mow time.
Planting: Planting options depend on number to be planted. Father in law had a large (24" diameter) auger on a three point hitch to auger holes in his nice fine sandy soils. Not an option for me (stones). As a rule, every little bit you put into planting makes a HUGE difference. Big holes help a lot. Soil disruption breaks it up and aids root establishment. Species: Don't plant all one variety, then all another. Mix em up for pollenation. Alternate trees in a row, or this row one variety, than row another. Different trees in close proximity helps pollenation. Watering: These trees have lost very nearly ALL roots. In order to survive it is critical that they have a constant source of water. It the soil dries, it frequently tends to shrink, tearing off and shearing the remaining fine root hairs. Your tree either dies or has a really tough time of it. As a rule my trees get a minimum of 5 gallons of water each and every day, 10 gallons if its hot, for the first season. I do plant with a shallow depression over each tree, so water concentrates instead of running away. Staking. If they are little 12-20" whips stakes are not needed. If they are 4'+ trees frequent winds can cause movement, breaking root hairs. I use EMT (conduit) for staking. I place the emt after digging but before planting so I don't cut roots. Roots: DO NOT coil a long root in a hole. The tree can strangle itself with that long root in years to come. Cut if necessary. Fertilizer: NONE. ZERO. ZIP. NADA the first year. You already have too much top, and not enough root. The last thing you need is more top growth. Fertlize in subsequent years in SPRING only. Late summer fertilizing encourages last season tip growth that does not harden off, and is winter killed. If you use BIG holes, LOTS of water, and some care, the trees will take off in no time. Mine were planted maybe 8 years ago, and are now 12-16 foot trees. Check this link. St Lawrence Nurseries Planting Guide Spraying: Winter: Spray trunks with dormant oil. Coats eggs and kills 'em. use ONLY when dormant. Commercial growers use specific sprays. Miticides for mites, fungicides, insecticides, etc. I use a three in one general spray. I don't have time to spray every other day. Check your pesticide label. Usually its a pre-emergent spray, again at petal drop, and then every one to two weeks depending on conditions (rainfall). Proper pruning (keeps trees open, helps air flow, dries off wet leaves and fruit) can dramatically reduce formation of fungi and other pests, reducing need for sprays. |