Posted: 11/26/2008 2:55:05 AM EDT
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Didn't know where else this question would fit. But since SF folks are the most versatile how-to guys...
I bought a nice leather pistol belt for concealed carry. Problem is, it's a little more "orange" than I like. Is there a way to stain it a darker brown? |
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Try here
Tandy Leather The type of dye/finish used on the leather is going to dictate the type you use. If you have a Tandy take it in and let them advise you. |
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I've done alot of leather work over the years. About the only thing I never got around to making was a saddle. Back in the '80's a western saddle was about $500 just in leathers and a "tree", or wooden form that it is built around.
Tandy is a good source for dyes. It is where most of my carving tools were from. I'd start with a light brown, pick a spot on the back, a small area that won't show. Order some "daubers", wire handle about 4" long with a fuzz ball on the end, used for applying dyes and finish. Don't get the stuff on your hands, might wear latex gloves. Will dye your fingers too. You can do the size of a dime and it will give you your test results. If not dark enough, do a second application on the same area. You used to be able to buy small maybe 4 oz. bottles. If you have to order online I'd get a light brown, med brown, dk brown. Personally I like a deep red, forget the name of the color. A small bottle of red over the existing brown would give this color. For finish I always liked the Fiebing's finish. It is a milky white solution that dries clear and is pretty waterproof. Allow to dry and multiple coats can be applied. Soak the sewing stitches too. Once very dry it can be buffed for a nice shiny finish. Buff with a clean white cotton cloth. Be sure to wait till it is VERY dry or you'll need to do over. One coat at a time, don't overdo the coatings without buffing and deciding if you want it shinier, too much and it may show cracks in the finish. It will also help to waterproof the interior, even if it is swade. (I don't remember how to spell that). Make sure the interior is dry before putting firearm in too. Swade leather or the flesh side will take longer to dry. If you want to form fit the firearm you can wet the holster, dip in warm water for a few seconds, let the water soak through, depending on thickness of leather, let sit for 10 minutes or so in a warm place, put firearm in thick plastic like a ziplock. place into holster and press leather around, bend a bit and shape it. Shape retention also varies with thickness of leather and type tanning and finish. Wait a day or more for drying if you do this. Uniform drying will affect how uniform your color and finish will "take". If you do the wetting, do this before applying color or Fiebing's finish. The Fiebings and dyes are relatively water proof but will lose some in the water. It may discolor after water also. Applied dyes might not penetrate evenly, depending on what finish was used before. Hope that helps. |
| Just dye it with leather dye, go to your shoe store to look for it. Ive used to do lots of leather work, mainly making knife sheaths and shooting bags the best in my experance is Fieblings as someone else posted...if you wet the leather first so that it is damp the dye will dye it more uniform with out streaks.....Todd |
| If it's a quality belt, it more than likely has a sealing finish on it much like any quality holster. Before you try to darken it, pick up some deglazer from Tandy to easily move the protective finish. Then add whatever dye you want. Be sure to seal it up again with some sort of acrylic sealer like Resolene or Leather Sheen, or your dye will likely bleed off onto your clothes. |