Posted: 3/2/2011 9:41:29 PM EDT
| ok ladies and gent here it is. What is everyones arrow rest of choice? i am looking at drop away rests. I have a wisker biscuit on my bow currently and just dont care for it that much, plus my grouping suffered a little after i switched. so lets hear it, whats on your bow? |
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Every QAD and Ripcord I've ever set up tuned like a dream, but I've never had one myself b/c a friend had one "lock up" on him when he made a steep shot out of a treestand. Might have been a freak thing, but it scared me.
Got a LimbDriver on my UltraTec, and I really like it other than the way the cord attaches to the rest. Set up a bunch of Trophy Takers and most really like them. Very tough, very simple. Only downside, there is no spring tension adjustment. Most would never need it anyhow, but I like to be able to tweak on it. |
| I'd like to add that the models I mentioned are all Full Containment Rests. I prefer these models because I do a lot of spot and stalk hunting. Since your arrow always stays put, it's one less thing to worry about when navigating rough terrain or forging through thick vegetation. I just don't like fall away rests that allow your arrow to flop around. I've seen more than a few guys send an arrow down range when the shaft wasn't even on the rest. Then they look around with that WTF look on their face. |
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cool guys thanks ill have to go look and see what my local shops have, but im liking the QAD hunter kinda or also like the ripcord. but the both look and sound alike. Is the difference in quality or just a name thing? i know there is a price difference too. The Rip cord will drop if you draw and let down slowly (no shot or passing etc) so the arrow is no longer captured... The QAD doesnt. The rest stays up with the arrow captured until its fired or you lower it manually. I went with the QAD Ultra for this reason |
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QAD Ultra Rest HD. I don't mess with anything else. Most problems people report are directly due to improper install/set-up. Some reviews say it's noisy, is that your experience? I'm looking for a new drop away also. Currently using a NAP If you have a bow with a high shelf, the flipper of the QAD will hit it and cause a smacking noise that makes it about 40% louder I would say. On those bows, you have to set your nock about 3/8" higher than center shot, which will allow you to raise the QAD high enough so the flipper doesn't smack the shelf as hard and it lays flat. If you are smacking the shelf, then I would be careful about putting a rubber "damper" on the shelf because this will cause the flipper to bounce back up and hit the fletching. Also, don't try to modify the flipper to make it so the arrow sits deeper, because the fletching will then hit the bar under the flipper. Moving the nock point up is just about all you can do to get the flipper to stop hitting the shelf. It still shoots bullet holes like that. You might have to loosen your top limb a quarter turn or so to pull top tiller out a little if you're having trouble getting bullet holes. That's the only noise problem I've encountered. Even with it smacking the shelf, the twang of the bow is still the major noise maker. Or if you use a peep sight tube, then I wouldn't worry about it because the slap from the tube will be louder. 
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QAD Ultra Rest HD. I don't mess with anything else. Most problems people report are directly due to improper install/set-up. Some reviews say it's noisy, is that your experience? I'm looking for a new drop away also. Currently using a NAP If you have a bow with a high shelf, the flipper of the QAD will hit it and cause a smacking noise that makes it about 40% louder I would say. On those bows, you have to set your nock about 3/8" higher than center shot, which will allow you to raise the QAD high enough so the flipper doesn't smack the shelf as hard and it lays flat. If you are smacking the shelf, then I would be careful about putting a rubber "damper" on the shelf because this will cause the flipper to bounce back up and hit the fletching. Also, don't try to modify the flipper to make it so the arrow sits deeper, because the fletching will then hit the bar under the flipper. Moving the nock point up is just about all you can do to get the flipper to stop hitting the shelf. It still shoots bullet holes like that. You might have to loosen your top limb a quarter turn or so to pull top tiller out a little if you're having trouble getting bullet holes. That's the only noise problem I've encountered. Even with it smacking the shelf, the twang of the bow is still the major noise maker. Or if you use a peep sight tube, then I wouldn't worry about it because the slap from the tube will be louder. How do I know if I have a high shelf? I have a Mathews Switchback XT. |
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QAD Ultra Rest HD. I don't mess with anything else. Most problems people report are directly due to improper install/set-up. Some reviews say it's noisy, is that your experience? I'm looking for a new drop away also. Currently using a NAP If you have a bow with a high shelf, the flipper of the QAD will hit it and cause a smacking noise that makes it about 40% louder I would say. On those bows, you have to set your nock about 3/8" higher than center shot, which will allow you to raise the QAD high enough so the flipper doesn't smack the shelf as hard and it lays flat. If you are smacking the shelf, then I would be careful about putting a rubber "damper" on the shelf because this will cause the flipper to bounce back up and hit the fletching. Also, don't try to modify the flipper to make it so the arrow sits deeper, because the fletching will then hit the bar under the flipper. Moving the nock point up is just about all you can do to get the flipper to stop hitting the shelf. It still shoots bullet holes like that. You might have to loosen your top limb a quarter turn or so to pull top tiller out a little if you're having trouble getting bullet holes. That's the only noise problem I've encountered. Even with it smacking the shelf, the twang of the bow is still the major noise maker. Or if you use a peep sight tube, then I wouldn't worry about it because the slap from the tube will be louder. How do I know if I have a high shelf? I have a Mathews Switchback XT. Look at the distance from the berger hole to the shelf. If it's like a PSE then you have a high shelf and it will require you to raise the nock point a bit higher to get the rest high enough off the shelf. If I remember, I will measure the distance on mine tonight with a caliper and post the distance. Then you can compare your's and see where you are. You might also e-mail QAD your question. I'm sure they know how it will fit on that bow. They're great folks. ETA - I believe you are good to go on that bow with the QAD. 
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QAD Ultra Rest HD. I don't mess with anything else. Most problems people report are directly due to improper install/set-up. Some reviews say it's noisy, is that your experience? I'm looking for a new drop away also. Currently using a NAP If you have a bow with a high shelf, the flipper of the QAD will hit it and cause a smacking noise that makes it about 40% louder I would say. On those bows, you have to set your nock about 3/8" higher than center shot, which will allow you to raise the QAD high enough so the flipper doesn't smack the shelf as hard and it lays flat. If you are smacking the shelf, then I would be careful about putting a rubber "damper" on the shelf because this will cause the flipper to bounce back up and hit the fletching. Also, don't try to modify the flipper to make it so the arrow sits deeper, because the fletching will then hit the bar under the flipper. Moving the nock point up is just about all you can do to get the flipper to stop hitting the shelf. It still shoots bullet holes like that. You might have to loosen your top limb a quarter turn or so to pull top tiller out a little if you're having trouble getting bullet holes. That's the only noise problem I've encountered. Even with it smacking the shelf, the twang of the bow is still the major noise maker. Or if you use a peep sight tube, then I wouldn't worry about it because the slap from the tube will be louder. How do I know if I have a high shelf? I have a Mathews Switchback XT. Look at the distance from the berger hole to the shelf. If it's like a PSE then you have a high shelf and it will require you to raise the nock point a bit higher to get the rest high enough off the shelf. If I remember, I will measure the distance on mine tonight with a caliper and post the distance. Then you can compare your's and see where you are. You might also e-mail QAD your question. I'm sure they know how it will fit on that bow. They're great folks. ETA - I believe you are good to go on that bow with the QAD. Thanks. I am currently using a non-capture drop away ( captured until the draw ) and will be replacing it with a QAD. |
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Hope you enjoy it. They provide a DVD with it to show how to install.
I like to initially install it with the provided little plastic clamp to set the proper cord position on the cable, and shoot it a little to get things settled in. Then I ditch the plastic clamp and tie the cord directly into the cable and serve it tight. If you're shooting over 290 fps or so, you might want to attach the cord a little lower on the cable than shown in the instructions. I like to attach the cord on the cable in a position about a half inch under the bottom of the grip when at rest. Apparently, the lower you tie the cord on the cable, the faster the flipper will drop so your fletching doesn't hit when shooting fast arrows. You also want to set the position of the cord on the cable so that it comes up to full angle at the last inch or half inch of the draw (right when you're hitting your letoff). Using the plastic clamp tightened just enough to slide on the cable as you draw, but still offering enough resistance to hold the flipper up at full draw, will find that position on the cable. Then tighten the clamp down. |
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Serving isn't difficult. Just can be tedious.
I learned just from watching guys set up my bow when I was a newb and on the web. Another good thing to know is the cow hitch. 
After finding the proper cord position on the cable using the plastic clamp, I will mark the spot on the cable and mark the spot on the cord. Then I press the bow, divide the cable in half to insert the cord, and tie the cow hitch. Remove from press for serving (only serve on string/cable under tension). I cut about 3 feet of serving string and tie it onto the cable, starting with an overhand knot about 1/4" below the cord tie-in. Then another overhand on the opposite side of the cable. Then begin wrapping. When you reach the cow-hitch, tie two more overhands, one on each side of the string, then begin to wrap the cow-hitch a few times in an x-pattern, then repeat what you did below the cord as you go up the top side of the cord to finish off the serving. Then cut the tag ends about 1/4", melt tag end down with a lighter, and while it's still hot, mash it down smooth with the metal part of the lighter. |