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Originally Posted By sgthoskins:
+1 I'd like to get one for a similar location. Originally Posted By sgthoskins:
Originally Posted By midmo:
What IR illuminator is that in the above post? $$? That's an American Dynamics panel illuminator (link). I picked up a couple of them as MilSurp a few years ago, and have gradually been using them in various projects. I had an extra one laying around for this project, and paired it to a Meanwell adjustable power supply (far cheaper than attempting to find an original power supply for that panel) It's similar to the Senstar panel I'm currently using above my garage (shows on page 22 of this very thread), though the Senstar uses a lens arrangement in the face-plate to direct the IR light. The Senstar is also 120VAC, and I was able to just plug it in. The American Dynamics panel is 13VDC, and required a power supply. ETA: There are about four of them for sale on Ebay right now... search for "American Dynamics IR" and you'll find them. Take note of the model number... they're 60-Watt panels, in the 940nm wavelength. This makes them completely covert. If your camera has sufficient sensitivity into that part of the IR spectrum, those could work for you, and have the advantage that nobody without NVGs would even know they were turned on (there is no slight red glow like the 880nm models). ETA2: The ones I have are the 880nm models, so I can't personally speak to the effectiveness of the 940nm. However, even if your camera doesn't have great sensitivity around 940nm, those panels put out so much light that it might not matter. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
What's your opinion of the Hikvision line? I'm having a hard time finding a better bang-for-your-buck. ETA: you do this professionally. I'm very interested in your opinion. Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By SaltyDog:
I am not affliated with Nelly's in any way, but i wanted to share my expierence with them. I have been ordering quite a few of the Hikvision cameras and NVR from them. One of the cameras was not operating to my satisfaction. ( IR reflection on the dome ) I contacted Nelly's about the problem and after a couple of emails i shipped the camera back to them so they could take a look at it. They gave me a full refund for the defective camera. I will continue to do business with them in the future. What's your opinion of the Hikvision line? I'm having a hard time finding a better bang-for-your-buck. ETA: you do this professionally. I'm very interested in your opinion. Over the years i have installed more cameras than i care to count, from bargin basement crap to high end top dollar cameras. And i find the Hikvision line to be a very good one, you cant beat the price point and the quality of the cameras and NVR's is perfect for what most people require. |
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
That's an American Dynamics panel illuminator (link). I picked up a couple of them as MilSurp a few years ago, and have gradually been using them in various projects. I had an extra one laying around for this project, and paired it to a Meanwell adjustable power supply (far cheaper than attempting to find an original power supply for that panel) It's similar to the Senstar panel I'm currently using above my garage (shows on page 22 of this very thread), though the Senstar uses a lens arrangement in the face-plate to direct the IR light. The Senstar is also 120VAC, and I was able to just plug it in. The American Dynamics panel is 13VDC, and required a power supply. ETA: There are about four of them for sale on Ebay right now... search for "American Dynamics IR" and you'll find them. Take note of the model number... they're 60-Watt panels, in the 940nm wavelength. This makes them completely covert. If your camera has sufficient sensitivity into that part of the IR spectrum, those could work for you, and have the advantage that nobody without NVGs would even know they were turned on (there is no slight red glow like the 880nm models). Can you show us how you wired the American Dynamics panel? And is $300 the going price for these? Also where did you get the Senstar IR? |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Can you show us how you wired the American Dynamics panel? And is $300 the going price for these? Also where did you get the Senstar IR? Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
That's an American Dynamics panel illuminator (link). I picked up a couple of them as MilSurp a few years ago, and have gradually been using them in various projects. I had an extra one laying around for this project, and paired it to a Meanwell adjustable power supply (far cheaper than attempting to find an original power supply for that panel) It's similar to the Senstar panel I'm currently using above my garage (shows on page 22 of this very thread), though the Senstar uses a lens arrangement in the face-plate to direct the IR light. The Senstar is also 120VAC, and I was able to just plug it in. The American Dynamics panel is 13VDC, and required a power supply. ETA: There are about four of them for sale on Ebay right now... search for "American Dynamics IR" and you'll find them. Take note of the model number... they're 60-Watt panels, in the 940nm wavelength. This makes them completely covert. If your camera has sufficient sensitivity into that part of the IR spectrum, those could work for you, and have the advantage that nobody without NVGs would even know they were turned on (there is no slight red glow like the 880nm models). Can you show us how you wired the American Dynamics panel? And is $300 the going price for these? Also where did you get the Senstar IR? I stumbled across the Senstar panel on Ebay... it's $1000 retail, and I got it for a couple of hundred bucks. Haven't looked for them since, but they're out there. Just set a recurring search on your ebay account, and it will email you when one pops up. The AD panel has three wires, but I only used the Red and Black wires (the white wire is a sensing wire of some sort, and goes to the original power supply, which I'm not using). The Meanwell PSU is a PLC-60-12. It's voltage and current-adjustable, and puts out a maximum of 60 watts (which is also what that panel is rated to take, so you shouldn't burn it out) Even so, you can adjust the maximum current down if you're worried. I have a digital meter I can put on it if you want to know exactly what it's pulling in terms of voltage and amperage. You can get those PSUs at Jameco electronics. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
| Thanks for the info. I have several Acti cameras and the light/ir at night has always been a little challenging even with the TCM series and more so with the E series. I am looking at adding a Hikvision to replace one in my garage and see how well they compare to the Acti for budget wise cameras. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Thanks for the info. I have several Acti cameras and the light/ir at night has always been a little challenging even with the TCM series and more so with the E series. I am looking at adding a Hikvision to replace one in my garage and see how well they compare to the Acti for budget wise cameras. The hikvision are better cams than the Acti... Particularly at night |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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I am also looking to upgrade my PC/DVR set up. Currently I have an I3 with 16g of memory, a SSD for the operating system and a 2 terabyte and 1 terabyte hard drive for the recordings and am running Luxriot with no problems. I am wanting to go rack mountable with a small security cabinet that can hold a the new case/computer, battery backup, and switch. Any recommendation for the following: 1: Rack mountable case for newer computer build using a SSD for the operating system and a new 4 terabyte hard drive for the Luxriot recordings. 2: Rack/security case 3: UPS battery backup. Not sure what size to go with or how long they run? |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
I am also looking to upgrade my PC/DVR set up. Currently I have an I3 with 16g of memory, a SSD for the operating system and a 2 terabyte and 1 terabyte hard drive for the recordings and am running Luxriot with no problems. I am wanting to go rack mountable with a small security cabinet that can hold a the new case/computer, battery backup, and switch. Any recommendation for the following: 1: Rack mountable case for newer computer build using a SSD for the operating system and a new 4 terabyte hard drive for the Luxriot recordings. 2: Rack/security case 3: UPS battery backup. Not sure what size to go with or how long they run? I used a 2u rack mount case off newegg. Put in a micro-ATX board, an SSD for the OS, and three 2TB drives. The rack-mount ups is a thornier question. If you have a small rack, get a 1U model. If you have an extra rack space or two, get a 2U model. You can get them on ebay, or pick up a refurb unit (multiple places on line sell them). They can run a couple of hundred bucks, and shipping isn't cheap ( batteries are HEAVY). Put the ups in the bottom of the rack. They can go 60-80lbs easy, so ensure your rack cabinet can handle the weight. Wall-mount racks are not rated for as much as a proper floor rack. A used rack cabinet can be had on ebay all day long.... But again, watch shipping costs. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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I'm looking to get four 3 megapixel IP cameras like the Hikvision dome or bullet cameras, but the selection that do audio as well are extremely limited. I need to capture audio as well, but the price almost doubles for this.
Any recommendations on a 3 megapixel IP camera that handles audio or has an audio input jack and won't break the bank? I could probably get by on a 1.3 megapixel (720p) if cost prohibitive. Need to keep it under $175 per camera. I have an older 8 channel Geovision analog capture card and it's easy to just pop on a microphone to the audio connector on the coax that goes to to the camera. Seems not as easy with an IP camera. |
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Originally Posted By CnA:
I'm looking to get four 3 megapixel IP cameras like the Hikvision dome or bullet cameras, but the selection that do audio as well are extremely limited. I need to capture audio as well, but the price almost doubles for this. Any recommendations on a 3 megapixel IP camera that handles audio or has an audio input jack and won't break the bank? I could probably get by on a 1.3 megapixel (720p) if cost prohibitive. Need to keep it under $175 per camera. I have an older 8 channel Geovision analog capture card and it's easy to just pop on a microphone to the audio connector on the coax that goes to to the camera. Seems not as easy with an IP camera. You are shooting too low on your price... Straight up. The capability you want can be had in the hikvision cams, but you're going to pay $300. And even that is a steal. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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The DS-2CD2732F-I(S) does audio in/out - http://www.hikvision.com/en/products_show.asp?id=8724
Review - http://www.networkcameracritic.com/?p=1968#more-1968 If you don't mind buying from China @ $175 shipped: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/HIKVISION-DS-2CD2732F-I-S-New-High-Quality-varifocal-lense-30-meters-3MP-IR-dome-network/638300_1397052579.html I have bought 6 of these from that vendor with no issues. Last order came in about 7 days via DHL. |
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
You are shooting too low on your price... Straight up. The capability you want can be had in the hikvision cams, but you're going to pay $300. And even that is a steal. Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By CnA:
I'm looking to get four 3 megapixel IP cameras like the Hikvision dome or bullet cameras, but the selection that do audio as well are extremely limited. I need to capture audio as well, but the price almost doubles for this. Any recommendations on a 3 megapixel IP camera that handles audio or has an audio input jack and won't break the bank? I could probably get by on a 1.3 megapixel (720p) if cost prohibitive. Need to keep it under $175 per camera. I have an older 8 channel Geovision analog capture card and it's easy to just pop on a microphone to the audio connector on the coax that goes to to the camera. Seems not as easy with an IP camera. You are shooting too low on your price... Straight up. The capability you want can be had in the hikvision cams, but you're going to pay $300. And even that is a steal. Thanks. For an indoor IP camera with audio, although not a dome, these look pretty nice for $180. http://www.nellyssecurity.com/hikvision-ds-2cd2432f-iw-3mp-cube-camera.html I really want a outdoor camera with audio at my porch, so redjeepxj's suggestion looks good. |
NRA Life Endowment Member
GOA Member
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Originally Posted By redjeepxj:
The DS-2CD2732F-I(S) does audio in/out - http://www.hikvision.com/en/products_show.asp?id=8724 Review - http://www.networkcameracritic.com/?p=1968#more-1968 If you don't mind buying from China @ $175 shipped: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/HIKVISION-DS-2CD2732F-I-S-New-High-Quality-varifocal-lense-30-meters-3MP-IR-dome-network/638300_1397052579.html I have bought 6 of these from that vendor with no issues. Last order came in about 7 days via DHL. Is there a way to tell if you're getting US firmware versions or do you have to flash them with US firmware when you get them from aliexpress? |
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
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The ones from that vendor will be in English but using Chinese firmware. You won't be able to use the US firmware without a hack.
Check this thread for a guy that has figured out a hack for the firmware that will allow you to change the region code to use US firmware. I haven't had a reason to upgrade firmware yet so haven't used his region code changer. |
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
I used a 2u rack mount case off newegg. Put in a micro-ATX board, an SSD for the OS, and three 2TB drives. The rack-mount ups is a thornier question. If you have a small rack, get a 1U model. If you have an extra rack space or two, get a 2U model. You can get them on ebay, or pick up a refurb unit (multiple places on line sell them). They can run a couple of hundred bucks, and shipping isn't cheap ( batteries are HEAVY). Put the ups in the bottom of the rack. They can go 60-80lbs easy, so ensure your rack cabinet can handle the weight. Wall-mount racks are not rated for as much as a proper floor rack. A used rack cabinet can be had on ebay all day long.... But again, watch shipping costs. Do you use a RAID controller to have the system recognize the drives as 1 or does it record to 1 and as they fill up go to the next? |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Do you use a RAID controller to have the system recognize the drives as 1 or does it record to 1 and as they fill up go to the next? Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
I used a 2u rack mount case off newegg. Put in a micro-ATX board, an SSD for the OS, and three 2TB drives. The rack-mount ups is a thornier question. If you have a small rack, get a 1U model. If you have an extra rack space or two, get a 2U model. You can get them on ebay, or pick up a refurb unit (multiple places on line sell them). They can run a couple of hundred bucks, and shipping isn't cheap ( batteries are HEAVY). Put the ups in the bottom of the rack. They can go 60-80lbs easy, so ensure your rack cabinet can handle the weight. Wall-mount racks are not rated for as much as a proper floor rack. A used rack cabinet can be had on ebay all day long.... But again, watch shipping costs. Do you use a RAID controller to have the system recognize the drives as 1 or does it record to 1 and as they fill up go to the next? No RAID controller. There were plenty of ports on the MB, so I had the OS recognize them as regular drives, and Luxriot records to them in whatever sequence it chooses. I allocate about 90% of the drive space for recording before it gets over-written. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
BTW, do you know the definition of suckage? I was using a stud-finder to find a suitable location for an install, and then I cut into the wall... (this is after I started repairing it...) <a href="http://s251.photobucket.com/user/TGrayman/media/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2052-1_zps0caa6c70.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2052-1_zps0caa6c70.jpg</a> And I found this (my house is single-story, so I'd never run across this particular situation before) <a href="http://s251.photobucket.com/user/TGrayman/media/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2051-1_zpsb4db9b1f.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2051-1_zpsb4db9b1f.jpg</a> Yeah. I knew about the firebreak, but my stud-finder didn't warn me about the friggin' pipe. Now I not only have to cut ANOTHER hole in the wall for the install, we have to replace that drywall, spackle it in, sand it, texture it, and repaint it. Fail. 
What are you putting in a hole that big? And recommendation on the stud finder? Mine is horrible. |
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
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Originally Posted By 2tired2run:
What are you putting in a hole that big? And recommendation on the stud finder? Mine is horrible. Originally Posted By 2tired2run:
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
BTW, do you know the definition of suckage? I was using a stud-finder to find a suitable location for an install, and then I cut into the wall... (this is after I started repairing it...) <a href="http://s251.photobucket.com/user/TGrayman/media/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2052-1_zps0caa6c70.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2052-1_zps0caa6c70.jpg</a> And I found this (my house is single-story, so I'd never run across this particular situation before) <a href="http://s251.photobucket.com/user/TGrayman/media/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2051-1_zpsb4db9b1f.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2051-1_zpsb4db9b1f.jpg</a> Yeah. I knew about the firebreak, but my stud-finder didn't warn me about the friggin' pipe. Now I not only have to cut ANOTHER hole in the wall for the install, we have to replace that drywall, spackle it in, sand it, texture it, and repaint it. Fail.
What are you putting in a hole that big? And recommendation on the stud finder? Mine is horrible. That's for a shallow wall-safe. I have one myself, but mine is made by wall-vault. The one going in that hole is an AMSEC ETA: The one I have is one of these: ETA2: the safe, not the woman 
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Originally Posted By sgthoskins:
TGM that's a kick in the balls but a good reminder for us. Sorry you have to re-do that one.  However with you posting that it will save someone or some people from falling victim to the same pvc trap.I'm just not sure how to avoid doing that in the future. I didn't realize it was a double-2x4 wall, or that there was a bathroom drain right overhead, or I would have thought to look for a pipe. I've seen stud-finders that pick up wood, metal, and AC wiring, but I've never seen one that will pick up PVC pipe. And I'm used to a single-story ranch, where there is no plumbing running up/down a wall. It's a hassle, but I can fix it (homeowner already has the paint). I'm just not sure how to tell anybody to avoid that landmine in the future. 
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan: I'm just not sure how to avoid doing that in the future. I didn't realize it was a double-2x4 wall, or that there was a bathroom drain right overhead, or I would have thought to look for a pipe. I've seen stud-finders that pick up wood, metal, and AC wiring, but I've never seen one that will pick up PVC pipe. And I'm used to a single-story ranch, where there is no plumbing running up/down a wall. It's a hassle, but I can fix it (homeowner already has the paint). I'm just not sure how to tell anybody to avoid that landmine in the future. Originally Posted By TheGrayMan: Originally Posted By sgthoskins: TGM that's a kick in the balls but a good reminder for us. Sorry you have to re-do that one. However with you posting that it will save someone or some people from falling victim to the same pvc trap.I'm just not sure how to avoid doing that in the future. I didn't realize it was a double-2x4 wall, or that there was a bathroom drain right overhead, or I would have thought to look for a pipe. I've seen stud-finders that pick up wood, metal, and AC wiring, but I've never seen one that will pick up PVC pipe. And I'm used to a single-story ranch, where there is no plumbing running up/down a wall. It's a hassle, but I can fix it (homeowner already has the paint). I'm just not sure how to tell anybody to avoid that landmine in the future. |
Semper Fidelis
www.northeastshooters.com www.comm2a.org
www.northeastshooters.com www.comm2a.org
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Originally Posted By sgthoskins:
Does a single story ranch in your area have a full basement? I have a two story colonial in NH with a walkout basement. I can see where my PVC comes down in the basement to hit the septic. So I have somewhat of an idea where it's coming from. I never thought of hitting a PVC pipe until your post. No basement; basic frame-on-slab. I'm just glad I was doing the cutting with a hand-saw, and didn't bring my sawzall. Can you imagine? 
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan: No basement; basic frame-on-slab. I'm just glad I was doing the cutting with a hand-saw, and didn't bring my sawzall. Can you imagine? Originally Posted By TheGrayMan: Originally Posted By sgthoskins: Does a single story ranch in your area have a full basement? I have a two story colonial in NH with a walkout basement. I can see where my PVC comes down in the basement to hit the septic. So I have somewhat of an idea where it's coming from. I never thought of hitting a PVC pipe until your post. No basement; basic frame-on-slab. I'm just glad I was doing the cutting with a hand-saw, and didn't bring my sawzall. Can you imagine?  |
Semper Fidelis
www.northeastshooters.com www.comm2a.org
www.northeastshooters.com www.comm2a.org
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Anyone know if you can disable the automatic IR cut filter on an Foscam 8910W?
I've got one (per a recommendation from TGM, thanks again!) that I keep in my daughter's room; she's 14-months old and I use it to keep an eye on her when she's in her crib. The camera has been great so far (easy to use, iPhone app works great, can access it internally or externally from anywhere), but it likes to turn on/turn off the cut filter at very inopportune times. Like when she's napping.  I wouldn't mind it if it clicks it on or off once, but it can't make up its mind so it endlessly clicks back and forth until it gets dark enough (or bright enough) in her room for it to figure out if it wants the IR on or off.
click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click CONSTANT and recurring whenever there's a lighting change. Mostly in the morning when the sun is coming up, and during the day if some clouds roll in and her room gets dark. I'm pretty sure it has woken her up several times. For those of you with kids, you know that strangling someone that wakes up a peacefully napping toddler falls under the category of "justifiable homicide". The same rule applies to "things" as well, like this camera.
I can stop the pattern in the middle of the clicking session, if I open the app on my iPhone and select IR on or IR off. But I'm wondering if there's a way to permanently disable the automatic feature, or make it so there's a time limit between switching back and forth, or anything like that. |
Fear became the ultimate tool of this government...
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Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Anyone know if you can disable the automatic IR cut filter on an Foscam 8910W? I've got one (per a recommendation from TGM, thanks again!) that I keep in my daughter's room; she's 14-months old and I use it to keep an eye on her when she's in her crib. The camera has been great so far (easy to use, iPhone app works great, can access it internally or externally from anywhere), but it likes to turn on/turn off the cut filter at very inopportune times. Like when she's napping. I wouldn't mind it if it clicks it on or off once, but it can't make up its mind so it endlessly clicks back and forth until it gets dark enough (or bright enough) in her room for it to figure out if it wants the IR on or off.
click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click CONSTANT and recurring whenever there's a lighting change. Mostly in the morning when the sun is coming up, and during the day if some clouds roll in and her room gets dark. I'm pretty sure it has woken her up several times. For those of you with kids, you know that strangling someone that wakes up a peacefully napping toddler falls under the category of "justifiable homicide". The same rule applies to "things" as well, like this camera.
I can stop the pattern in the middle of the clicking session, if I open the app on my iPhone and select IR on or IR off. But I'm wondering if there's a way to permanently disable the automatic feature, or make it so there's a time limit between switching back and forth, or anything like that. Is there a sensitivity setting? Or a delay setting for the day/night switch? |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Is there a sensitivity setting? Or a delay setting for the day/night switch? Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Anyone know if you can disable the automatic IR cut filter on an Foscam 8910W? I've got one (per a recommendation from TGM, thanks again!) that I keep in my daughter's room; she's 14-months old and I use it to keep an eye on her when she's in her crib. The camera has been great so far (easy to use, iPhone app works great, can access it internally or externally from anywhere), but it likes to turn on/turn off the cut filter at very inopportune times. Like when she's napping. I wouldn't mind it if it clicks it on or off once, but it can't make up its mind so it endlessly clicks back and forth until it gets dark enough (or bright enough) in her room for it to figure out if it wants the IR on or off.
click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click CONSTANT and recurring whenever there's a lighting change. Mostly in the morning when the sun is coming up, and during the day if some clouds roll in and her room gets dark. I'm pretty sure it has woken her up several times. For those of you with kids, you know that strangling someone that wakes up a peacefully napping toddler falls under the category of "justifiable homicide". The same rule applies to "things" as well, like this camera.
I can stop the pattern in the middle of the clicking session, if I open the app on my iPhone and select IR on or IR off. But I'm wondering if there's a way to permanently disable the automatic feature, or make it so there's a time limit between switching back and forth, or anything like that. Is there a sensitivity setting? Or a delay setting for the day/night switch? Checked but haven't found anything. I'll check again just to be sure. I also emailed Foscam support to see if they can come up with something. Thanks! |
Fear became the ultimate tool of this government...
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
That's for a shallow wall-safe. I have one myself, but mine is made by wall-vault. The one going in that hole is an AMSEC ETA: The one I have is one of these: ETA2: the safe, not the woman
http://www.biometricvaults.com/files/3665362/uploaded/Secure%20Logic%20Biometric%20Wall%20Vault%207.jpg Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By 2tired2run:
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
BTW, do you know the definition of suckage? I was using a stud-finder to find a suitable location for an install, and then I cut into the wall... (this is after I started repairing it...) <a href="http://s251.photobucket.com/user/TGrayman/media/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2052-1_zps0caa6c70.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2052-1_zps0caa6c70.jpg</a> And I found this (my house is single-story, so I'd never run across this particular situation before) <a href="http://s251.photobucket.com/user/TGrayman/media/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2051-1_zpsb4db9b1f.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/CCTV%20fails/DSCN2051-1_zpsb4db9b1f.jpg</a> Yeah. I knew about the firebreak, but my stud-finder didn't warn me about the friggin' pipe. Now I not only have to cut ANOTHER hole in the wall for the install, we have to replace that drywall, spackle it in, sand it, texture it, and repaint it. Fail.
What are you putting in a hole that big? And recommendation on the stud finder? Mine is horrible. That's for a shallow wall-safe. I have one myself, but mine is made by wall-vault. The one going in that hole is an AMSEC ETA: The one I have is one of these: ETA2: the safe, not the woman
http://www.biometricvaults.com/files/3665362/uploaded/Secure%20Logic%20Biometric%20Wall%20Vault%207.jpg At first glance I thought she was your recommendation for a stud finder
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"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
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Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Anyone know if you can disable the automatic IR cut filter on an Foscam 8910W? I've got one (per a recommendation from TGM, thanks again!) that I keep in my daughter's room; she's 14-months old and I use it to keep an eye on her when she's in her crib. The camera has been great so far (easy to use, iPhone app works great, can access it internally or externally from anywhere), but it likes to turn on/turn off the cut filter at very inopportune times. Like when she's napping. I wouldn't mind it if it clicks it on or off once, but it can't make up its mind so it endlessly clicks back and forth until it gets dark enough (or bright enough) in her room for it to figure out if it wants the IR on or off.
click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click CONSTANT and recurring whenever there's a lighting change. Mostly in the morning when the sun is coming up, and during the day if some clouds roll in and her room gets dark. I'm pretty sure it has woken her up several times. For those of you with kids, you know that strangling someone that wakes up a peacefully napping toddler falls under the category of "justifiable homicide". The same rule applies to "things" as well, like this camera.
I can stop the pattern in the middle of the clicking session, if I open the app on my iPhone and select IR on or IR off. But I'm wondering if there's a way to permanently disable the automatic feature, or make it so there's a time limit between switching back and forth, or anything like that. I use these cameras and don't have that problem but I use an app on my android phone that allows me to turn the IR off and on manually. I've never found a filter control in the camera control panel itself. I'd be interested to see what Foscam has to say. |
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
BTW, just as a follow-up, here's that AMSEC safe, mounted to the left of the hole where I encountered the pipe.
I've got a couple of coats of spackle on the hole. Now I just have to sand, texture, and paint. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Anyone know if you can disable the automatic IR cut filter on an Foscam 8910W? I've got one (per a recommendation from TGM, thanks again!) that I keep in my daughter's room; she's 14-months old and I use it to keep an eye on her when she's in her crib. The camera has been great so far (easy to use, iPhone app works great, can access it internally or externally from anywhere), but it likes to turn on/turn off the cut filter at very inopportune times. Like when she's napping. I wouldn't mind it if it clicks it on or off once, but it can't make up its mind so it endlessly clicks back and forth until it gets dark enough (or bright enough) in her room for it to figure out if it wants the IR on or off.
click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click CONSTANT and recurring whenever there's a lighting change. Mostly in the morning when the sun is coming up, and during the day if some clouds roll in and her room gets dark. I'm pretty sure it has woken her up several times. For those of you with kids, you know that strangling someone that wakes up a peacefully napping toddler falls under the category of "justifiable homicide". The same rule applies to "things" as well, like this camera.
I can stop the pattern in the middle of the clicking session, if I open the app on my iPhone and select IR on or IR off. But I'm wondering if there's a way to permanently disable the automatic feature, or make it so there's a time limit between switching back and forth, or anything like that. I ended up putting tape over the sensor on mine to keep it from doing that. Then the setting in the configuration sticks. |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
What size UPS would you recommend and is your UPS connected to the computer and POE switch? I'm running a 1u rackmount UPS. It's pretty close to capacity... think it's running about 80%. Pretty sure it's a Cyberpower. It holds up the entire rack... DVR, main PoE switch, PBX, firewall, and cable modem. It doesn't have to hold up the rack for long, however. The backup generator (Kohler) spools up within 10-15 seconds and automatically takes over the load. Sometimes the genset will not catch on the first auto-start cycle, and it waits a minute before trying again. That UPS will hold up that rack for about 6-8 minutes, which is plenty of cushion. I can get you a pic of it if you want. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
| Yes, please take a pic. I am looking at doing a 2U APC or Eaton 2200 series that have the options of adding an additional battery. Looking to run the router, computer, switch, and cameras for a short time. Just need to place my kill-a-watt meter on my switch and computer to see what they are actually using. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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A few words about UPS units, since this is part of my day job responsibilities.
TEST, TEST, TEST! 1st off your unit is listed in output VA (not Watts) - this is the rated max power the inverter circuit can convert the reserve DC batt power back into AC. Do the math for converting to watts and you will find that your UPS actual puts out less than you might have thought. Adding additional battery capacity will not change this, it only extends how long the unit can produce output. The sealed gell cell batteries can and do dry out, esp if your power is a bit flaky and unit is trying to compensate without doing full switchovers which causes the batteries to run hot. The output of the batteries drops with time* and the drop is not linear, so while everything may read OK on the panel, you may only have 90 seconds of actual reserve power. Some brands of batteries will tend to swell and expand greatly making them nearly impossible to remove if you wait unit total failure. Computer power supplies can be very forgiving - many will chug along on 80v at 48hz assuming there is enough amps avail to produce the watts required. OTOH some network switches can be very picky. We found out after performing a hideously expensive gigabit network upgrade that certain switches would not run on the square wave output of the existing UPS and we had to swap in a unit that had true sinusoidal output. Try not to load your UPS beyond 60-70% of its rated output - because when the unit is needed and the batteries are in a rather degraded state it can mean the difference between the unit immediately shutting down in an error mode or running your gear for 5-8 minutes. (Which can allow for a controlled safe shutdown of equipment if you have chosen to use this option.) *Load test you unit once a month until it gives the final warning, time the test and keep track of how long your reserve power will last. Retest anytime devices are added or changed on the UPS output. This will help you to avoid unpleasant surprises when your equipment goes dead after a 2min test vrs when you really needed it. I use the Werker brand batteries available from many sources but I get them from Batteries + Bulbs+. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THESE! I replace anywhere form 48 to 80 UPS batteries per quarter, I try to replace them at 18months but if they still pass our tests they will stay in service up to 24 months. If these batts are run to death they do swell badly, and often melt the plastic from overheating when they dry out. Due to the volume (corporate wide, and we are a HUGE company) we get a insane discount - and for budget purposes a cheaper unit on this years budget and replace it again on next years budget etc looks better to the bean counters than buying a better item that might actually give 60 months service. |
11-06-2012: All HOPE is lost, for there will be NO CHANGE.
And as the horde gazed over the edge into the abyss, they chanted FORWARD! FORWARD!
And as the horde gazed over the edge into the abyss, they chanted FORWARD! FORWARD!
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Expert/experienced opinions are always welcome, ProfGAB101.
And yes... if you're not replacing your UPS batteries on a 2-3 year cycle, you're going to find them dead when you really need them. And recycle... those lead-acid batteries do NOT belong in landfills. 
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Checked but haven't found anything. I'll check again just to be sure. I also emailed Foscam support to see if they can come up with something. Thanks! Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Anyone know if you can disable the automatic IR cut filter on an Foscam 8910W? I've got one (per a recommendation from TGM, thanks again!) that I keep in my daughter's room; she's 14-months old and I use it to keep an eye on her when she's in her crib. The camera has been great so far (easy to use, iPhone app works great, can access it internally or externally from anywhere), but it likes to turn on/turn off the cut filter at very inopportune times. Like when she's napping. I wouldn't mind it if it clicks it on or off once, but it can't make up its mind so it endlessly clicks back and forth until it gets dark enough (or bright enough) in her room for it to figure out if it wants the IR on or off.
click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click click-click CONSTANT and recurring whenever there's a lighting change. Mostly in the morning when the sun is coming up, and during the day if some clouds roll in and her room gets dark. I'm pretty sure it has woken her up several times. For those of you with kids, you know that strangling someone that wakes up a peacefully napping toddler falls under the category of "justifiable homicide". The same rule applies to "things" as well, like this camera.
I can stop the pattern in the middle of the clicking session, if I open the app on my iPhone and select IR on or IR off. But I'm wondering if there's a way to permanently disable the automatic feature, or make it so there's a time limit between switching back and forth, or anything like that. Is there a sensitivity setting? Or a delay setting for the day/night switch? Checked but haven't found anything. I'll check again just to be sure. I also emailed Foscam support to see if they can come up with something. Thanks! you can use the app to turn off the IR or turn it on, then it stays in that position. ETA. I am using IP Cam Viewer Pro. ETA2: Disregard, my other cams do that, the foscams reset the IR when the light changes. |
Mach
“Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is argument of tyrants. It is the creed of slaves.” William Pitt, 1783:
“Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is argument of tyrants. It is the creed of slaves.” William Pitt, 1783:
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Originally Posted By ProfGAB101:
A few words about UPS units, since this is part of my day job responsibilities. TEST, TEST, TEST! 1st off your unit is listed in output VA (not Watts) - this is the rated max power the inverter circuit can convert the reserve DC batt power back into AC. Do the math for converting to watts and you will find that your UPS actual puts out less than you might have thought. Adding additional battery capacity will not change this, it only extends how long the unit can produce output. Thanks for the info ProfGAB101. Is there a size and brand you recommend for this type of set up? |
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For the UPS I am looking at the following:
APC 2200VA and adding an Extended Battery Pack to increase the run time. Or should I have 2 separate UPS, one for the server/dvr and one for the POE/cameras and router? |
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Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
For the UPS I am looking at the following: APC 2200VA and adding an Extended Battery Pack to increase the run time. Or should I have 2 separate UPS, one for the server/dvr and one for the POE/cameras and router? You can run both off the same UPS. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Question...
Is there a sort of 'server' box that allows the ---monitoring--- of a camera's AUDIO [only] instead of hooking up a PC to do the listening? If so I have some suggestions for security monitoring... Or are there a pair of network boxes, one to have a mike plugged into it, and another to have an audio out -with, say speakers, connected. Not using a PC in any of these cases... |
I see us collectively as a country bumpkin, sitting on a log with a rifle, having no understanding what's going on beyond a few trees away, about to be enslaved with no interest by whom or what.
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Originally Posted By EXPY37:
Question... Is there a sort of 'server' box that allows the ---monitoring--- of a camera's AUDIO [only] instead of hooking up a PC to do the listening? If so I have some suggestions for security monitoring... Or are there a pair of network boxes, one to have a mike plugged into it, and another to have an audio out -with, say speakers, connected. Not using a PC in any of these cases... Never looked into it, but they make video-over-UTP extenders. I don't know why audio couldn't be sent the same way. Does the audio have to pass through normal networking equipment? (eg. switches and across the internet) ETA: if it's the latter, you'll need some sort of packetized audio solution. Not sure where to point you for that. |
Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Never looked into it, but they make video-over-UTP extenders. I don't know why audio couldn't be sent the same way. Does the audio have to pass through normal networking equipment? (eg. switches and across the internet) ETA: if it's the latter, you'll need some sort of packetized audio solution. Not sure where to point you for that. Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By EXPY37:
Question... Is there a sort of 'server' box that allows the ---monitoring--- of a camera's AUDIO [only] instead of hooking up a PC to do the listening? If so I have some suggestions for security monitoring... Or are there a pair of network boxes, one to have a mike plugged into it, and another to have an audio out -with, say speakers, connected. Not using a PC in any of these cases... Never looked into it, but they make video-over-UTP extenders. I don't know why audio couldn't be sent the same way. Does the audio have to pass through normal networking equipment? (eg. switches and across the internet) ETA: if it's the latter, you'll need some sort of packetized audio solution. Not sure where to point you for that. Yes the audio needs to pass thru a regular network. |
I see us collectively as a country bumpkin, sitting on a log with a rifle, having no understanding what's going on beyond a few trees away, about to be enslaved with no interest by whom or what.
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Something like this but I don't understand all the protocols, or how it works. $99.
Ideally it would be able to receive and decode the audio from a standard IP cams, over a network. Audioo decoder Mfgr's site Audio Some IP cameras [Axis] offer 2-way audio, that may mean the audio can be transmitted from one cam and in the opposite direction as well. There is a 'push-to talk' function ---on say the Axis P3301. Users manual... P3301 manual But I don't know enough abt the IP protocols to understand if one cam can act as a stand alone server and another linked cam can act as a stand alone client with audio out [from the audio in of the server cam]. It seems they can but not sure. I'm looking at a P3301 and it has audio in AND out jacks. Neat little cam. Hooked one up and the menus are rather complex. Did find this audio document... Audio In this document about audio, Axis shows a PC on the client side. Yet the P3301 camera has an audio output jack. So I'm trying to understand if the remote client [with audio out] can be just a stand alone camera. In the course of trying to figure this out, I connected a sound level meter to the P3301 in lieu of a microphone and the audio sensitivity is impressive. |
I see us collectively as a country bumpkin, sitting on a log with a rifle, having no understanding what's going on beyond a few trees away, about to be enslaved with no interest by whom or what.