[ARCHIVED THREAD] - ANTENNA ANALYZER for $50 (Page 3 of 5)
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Ali Express, direct from CHINA, cheap.
Got my Vector Network Analyzer in hand, and a SMA to SO-239 hooked up to 2 meter antenna, discovered that it was too short, soldered an extra 1/8" on the radiator. now resonant on 144 mc... close enough. How to expand the scale? I'd like to see about 1.8 mc to 30mc range, not doing any work at 900mc. No instructions in the box. Would be cool to measure 1/4 wave stubs, etc. Any concise printed tutorials for these VNA ? I have a bitch of time learning anything from you tube narrators, better to see printed instruction. |
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Ali Express, direct from CHINA, cheap. Got my Vector Network Analyzer in hand, and a SMA to SO-239 hooked up to 2 meter antenna, discovered that it was too short, soldered an extra 1/8" on the radiator. now resonant on 144 mc... close enough. How to expand the scale? I'd like to see about 1.8 mc to 30mc range, not doing any work at 900mc. No instructions in the box. Would be cool to measure 1/4 wave stubs, etc. Any concise printed tutorials for these VNA ? I have a bitch of time learning anything from you tube narrators, better to see printed instruction. And using the nanovnasharp program free from google makes it nice due to using your computers display. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zE_24-b2d_Q&fbclid=IwAR1nVMBmYfOrhAgoXgD_Uza6Pl2YqWcKm_OS5EQgimhBK3jP7b6TNGGiWTg |
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Can anyone confirm what "900 MHz" means here. Does it stop at 899 MHz or will it work at 915 MHz?
I'm building a fair number of 902-928 frequency hopping transceivers for a special project and have started to work on antennas and it'd be nice to know how close I'm getting to 915 MHz and how bad off I am on the outlying channels of the hop set. |
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Can anyone confirm what "900 MHz" means here. Does it stop at 899 MHz or will it work at 915 MHz? I'm building a fair number of 902-928 frequency hopping transceivers for a special project and have started to work on antennas and it'd be nice to know how close I'm getting to 915 MHz and how bad off I am on the outlying channels of the hop set. These are pretty amazing tools for $45. I sprung for a 3D printed case on ebay for another $13 and that gives it a bit more of a finished look and feel. Joe |
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So, dumb question from me, who has never used an antenna analyzer. For the next class I teach, I want to have everyone (or in teams) make their own 2m or 70cm antennas. I've got a couple months to lock down some simple, inexpensive designs. If I'm playing with designs, is this analyzer going to help me tune up a design before I give a class full of people the instructions to build their own? I'm looking at either doing a dipole, a moxon, or a "jungle" antenna (pictured below). https://brushbeater.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/fig7-13.gif?w=300&h=258 Thanks in advance. The easiest antenna to make will be a 1/4 wave vertical. I use an SO-239 chassis connector and #12 solid copper wire. Brass brazing rod (no flux) works as well. ETA - Attached File |
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Quoted: @unpleasant The easiest antenna to make will be a 1/4 wave vertical. I use an SO-239 chassis connector and #12 solid copper wire. Brass brazing rod (no flux) works as well. ETA - https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/108158/2m_GP-1_jpg-1113827.JPG My thought was copper stereo wire + banana/SO-239 like below. Moxon:
Dipole: https://brushbeater.wordpress.com/2016/11/22/the-versatile-dirt-cheap-d-i-y-dipole/ |
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This is going to be in a classroom or desert location, so soldering isn't happening. I want them to be able to use sticks, 550 cord, speaker wire, and a multitool to get either a 2m or 70cm antenna functional to test. My thought was copper stereo wire + banana/SO-239 like below. Moxon: https://brushbeater.files.wordpress.com/2016/06/20160613_153730.jpg?w=317&h=528 https://brushbeater.files.wordpress.com/2016/06/moxon.png Dipole: https://brushbeater.wordpress.com/2016/11/22/the-versatile-dirt-cheap-d-i-y-dipole/ |
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This is going to be in a classroom or desert location, so soldering isn't happening. I want them to be able to use sticks, 550 cord, speaker wire, and a multitool to get either a 2m or 70cm antenna functional to test. My thought was copper stereo wire + banana/SO-239 like below. Moxon: https://brushbeater.files.wordpress.com/2016/06/20160613_153730.jpg?w=317&h=528 https://brushbeater.files.wordpress.com/2016/06/moxon.png Dipole: https://brushbeater.wordpress.com/2016/11/22/the-versatile-dirt-cheap-d-i-y-dipole/ Quoted:
Quoted: @unpleasant The easiest antenna to make will be a 1/4 wave vertical. I use an SO-239 chassis connector and #12 solid copper wire. Brass brazing rod (no flux) works as well. ETA - https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/108158/2m_GP-1_jpg-1113827.JPG My thought was copper stereo wire + banana/SO-239 like below. Moxon: https://brushbeater.files.wordpress.com/2016/06/20160613_153730.jpg?w=317&h=528 https://brushbeater.files.wordpress.com/2016/06/moxon.png Dipole: https://brushbeater.wordpress.com/2016/11/22/the-versatile-dirt-cheap-d-i-y-dipole/ as the radiator and the coax shield as the ground plane. No fancy connectors at all. Strip off the coax's outer insulation and un-braid the shield. Could be done with a pocket knife or a broken piece of glass if you really wanted a SHTF scenario. |
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Another cheap and dirty option would be to just use the coax's center conductor as the radiator and the coax shield as the ground plane. No fancy connectors at all. Strip off the coax's outer insulation and un-braid the shield. Could be done with a pocket knife or a broken piece of glass if you really wanted a SHTF scenario. They work as well as more complex solutions if the braid end is connected to some sort of metal for a ground plane. Also work for applications like an expedient antenna for a Dakota alert, rcvr or xmitter. The braid wire can be separated and twisted into say three 'strands' and these can serve as ground radials. |
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Quoted: Have one in service for 4 years, connected to an old Sonar receiver to monitor a repeater. They work as well as more complex solutions if the braid end is connected to some sort of metal for a ground plane. Also work for applications like an expedient antenna for a Dakota alert, rcvr or xmitter. The braid wire can be separated and twisted into say three 'strands' and these can serve as ground radials. |
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You can also just orient the braid as a single "wire" 180 degrees from the center conductor and have a classic dipole. Position it vertically and keep it fairly strait and it'll work just fine. |
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The TDR function in NanoVNA-Saver is great. I've been measuring odd cables I have and it seems spot on. I have a run of cable from the window through pass through out to the HF antenna in the yard but I'm not sure how long it is. Each time I have to drop another run I get in a hurry and never get around to actually trying to measure so I end up lugging the spool of LMR-400 around. I'm about to try it now at the window connection to see how long this run was I last did since it's disconnected at the antenna right now. EDIT: 84 feet. |
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Here is the case sold on e-bay, $12.99.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NanoVNA-Case/174039026524?hash=item288588cb5c:m:mAdKil60KDtF-Q8HSeQ6WRA |
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Here is the case sold on e-bay, $12.99. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NanoVNA-Case/174039026524?hash=item288588cb5c:m:mAdKil60KDtF-Q8HSeQ6WRA |
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Attached File My Nanovna arrive along with the eBay 3-D printed case. I am glad to see that mine came with the shielding and looks well built. Attached File There is a slight gap on the left edge, but the I feel a bit more comfortable with having it installed than without. |
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I 'love' mine.
Assembled and put up an 80-10 M OCFD 'Windom' a week or so ago. Goes over my roof which is about 25' feet (can get it higher) and the long end to an easy to reach branch, 15' high. Took readings and saved via software, with out and with being grounded. Interesting results. Now long end is about 25 ', better readings. Next step is its' final destination, up about 100' and can get 40' or so when secured to what folks older than I call 'the chimley'. Is so nice of a tool for the price, and FUN for an old pocket saver dude. Best radio $$ I Ever Spent. |
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/54857/IMG_0431_png-1120842.JPG My Nanovna arrive along with the eBay 3-D printed case. I am glad to see that mine came with the shielding and looks well built. |
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do you remember where you ordered it from? Quoted:
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https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/54857/IMG_0431_png-1120842.JPG My Nanovna arrive along with the eBay 3-D printed case. I am glad to see that mine came with the shielding and looks well built. https://www.ebay.com/itm/50KHz-900MHz-NanoVNA-Vector-Network-Analyzer-MF-HF-VHF-UHF-Antenna-W-O-Shell-tUS/174016319123 |
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What are the differences in these? Anything to look out for?
For example, this one is only $20 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333358656568 |
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My first real use of this was to make a quarter wave vertical to use with a VHF aircraft handheld. We put it on a painter's pole last weekend and were able to talk to our aircraft 6 miles out instead of only a mile or two. Then the other day I used it to perform a receiver S-meter calibration on my ANAN-8000. It worked, but in doing so I've become a little disappointed.
To perform the level calibration I put the NanoVNA into CW mode at 10MHz. Then I used my HP8560, which is my most trusted instrument even though it hasn't seen a calibration shop in some time, to measure the output of the NanoVNA first. As you can see from the screen shot, the spectrum implies this thing has a near square-wave output. Attached File Sure enough, throwing it onto the scope, we've got almost square waves. This almost certainly affects measurement accuracy. Since my usage is going to be almost exclusively HF I'm thinking of putting a 30MHz LPF on it. Attached File |
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My first real use of this was to make a quarter wave vertical to use with a VHF aircraft handheld. We put it on a painter's pole last weekend and were able to talk to our aircraft 6 miles out instead of only a mile or two. Then the other day I used it to perform a receiver S-meter calibration on my ANAN-8000. It worked, but in doing so I've become a little disappointed. To perform the level calibration I put the NanoVNA into CW mode at 10MHz. Then I used my HP8560, which is my most trusted instrument even though it hasn't seen a calibration shop in some time, to measure the output of the NanoVNA first. As you can see from the screen shot, the spectrum implies this thing has a near square-wave output. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/16697/IMG_20191011_173428_jpg-1123797.JPG Sure enough, throwing it onto the scope, we've got almost square waves. This almost certainly affects measurement accuracy. Since my usage is going to be almost exclusively HF I'm thinking of putting a 30MHz LPF on it. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/16697/IMG_20191011_173253_jpg-1123798.JPG I've owned/own and maintained a lot of HP/Agilent analyzers and generally they will recalibrate with sufficient accuracy for most work, using the built in cal functions. You should be good to go with far more accuracy than the great little VNA. Incidentally, the NANA-Vna I ordered from eBay recently for about $40 does have two shields on the board. |
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Question: How long does it take to measure SWR on a single HF band and then measure SWR on another band, in field conditions? I just need a simple, small and light antenna analyzer for quickly checking SWR on portable antennas when operating out in the field. I don't need any fancy graphics, Smiths Charts or computer software, just frequency with SWR and possibly Impedance measurement. Does it display SWR, Frequency and Impedance in an easy to read format?
I'm perfectly happy with my MFJ-259 but it's just too bulky and heavy for a portable setup. It literally takes several seconds to measure SWR on several HF bands. I don't want anything that requires 5 minutes worth of changing multiple settings, parameters etc. |
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What are the differences in these? Anything to look out for? For example, this one is only $20 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333358656568 |
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If you look closely at that seller's other auctions it is clear that it is a scam - ridiculously-low prices on new items ($20 for a $135 Fluke meter, etc.), looks like a "pump and dump" operation. Quoted:
Quoted:
What are the differences in these? Anything to look out for? For example, this one is only $20 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333358656568 |
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Question: How long does it take to measure SWR on a single HF band and then measure SWR on another band, in field conditions? I just need a simple, small and light antenna analyzer for quickly checking SWR on portable antennas when operating out in the field. I don't need any fancy graphics, Smiths Charts or computer software, just frequency with SWR and possibly Impedance measurement. Does it display SWR, Frequency and Impedance in an easy to read format? I'm perfectly happy with my MFJ-259 but it's just too bulky and heavy for a portable setup. It literally takes several seconds to measure SWR on several HF bands. I don't want anything that requires 5 minutes worth of changing multiple settings, parameters etc. "bands" in about 5 seconds by resetting the start and stop freqs that it sweeps. I have mine set up as simple as possible. One trace set to SWR format with no Smith chart on the screen, just a yellow trace. |
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You can also save different preset ranges/traces and recall them without adjusting each setting/trace. I have one memory for 1-30, 30-50, 140-160, and 440-470 mHz. Its like two clicks (a stylus is your friend) and you are good. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it will show just the resistance too? Separate from the Smith chart I mean. I don't have it in front of me. |
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My first real use of this was to make a quarter wave vertical to use with a VHF aircraft handheld. We put it on a painter's pole last weekend and were able to talk to our aircraft 6 miles out instead of only a mile or two. Then the other day I used it to perform a receiver S-meter calibration on my ANAN-8000. It worked, but in doing so I've become a little disappointed. To perform the level calibration I put the NanoVNA into CW mode at 10MHz. Then I used my HP8560, which is my most trusted instrument even though it hasn't seen a calibration shop in some time, to measure the output of the NanoVNA first. As you can see from the screen shot, the spectrum implies this thing has a near square-wave output. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/16697/IMG_20191011_173428_jpg-1123797.JPG Sure enough, throwing it onto the scope, we've got almost square waves. This almost certainly affects measurement accuracy. Since my usage is going to be almost exclusively HF I'm thinking of putting a 30MHz LPF on it. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/16697/IMG_20191011_173253_jpg-1123798.JPG |
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You can also save different preset ranges/traces and recall them without adjusting each setting/trace. I have one memory for 1-30, 30-50, 140-160, and 440-470 mHz. Its like two clicks (a stylus is your friend) and you are good. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe it will show just the resistance too? Separate from the Smith chart I mean. I don't have it in front of me. |
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If you look closely at that seller's other auctions it is clear that it is a scam - ridiculously-low prices on new items ($20 for a $135 Fluke meter, etc.), looks like a "pump and dump" operation. Quoted:
Quoted:
What are the differences in these? Anything to look out for? For example, this one is only $20 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333358656568 |
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Quoted: how does the scam work, you can always get a refund from paypal No risk. That Seller has horrible feedback but some good as well. I wouldn't hesitate to take a chance and buy from him if there were something I needed. |
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Re your HP analyzer, check the menu and there should be a cal function you can run with the press of a few buttons. I've owned/own and maintained a lot of HP/Agilent analyzers and generally they will recalibrate with sufficient accuracy for most work, using the built in cal functions. |
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how does the scam work, you can always get a refund from paypal Quoted:
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What are the differences in these? Anything to look out for? For example, this one is only $20 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333358656568 |
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Got mine in the mail today - yes, it's small - now to go back and read this thread from the beginning for some pointers, software, etc. And maybe fire up my 3D printer for a case. Looks like tomorrow I'll be playing with some of my antennas and feedlines... |
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@KB7DX
I haven't even used the markers menu. Haven't needed to yet. http://ormpoa.altervista.org/Hnano.htm - Select which trace you want to use in the DISPLAY menu. There will be a little dot next to the active trace you are editing. To make it simple, go into TRACE 0 and select SINGLE. This makes TRACE 0 the only visible one. - go to DISPLAY then FORMAT and select SWR. - now go to STIMULUS, edit the START and STOP to, say, 7.00 through 8.00 mHz. Pro tip: select the bottom right of the screen, the white space next to the numbers. This displays a numerical keyboard and you can just type 7 and click the [M] button for mHz. Way easier than clicking each number up or down!
- go to RECALL SAVE menu and save as SAVE 0. Now, when you power on the unit, go to RECALL and select RECALL 0. It deletes the extra traces and sets the range from 7-8 mHz scanning the SWR. Set a recall up for the main ranges/formats you normally use to avoid fiddling with the traces all the time. Also, for $1, a stylus works well; like these. |
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@KB7DX I haven't even used the markers menu. Haven't needed to yet. http://ormpoa.altervista.org/Hnano.htm - Select which trace you want to use in the DISPLAY menu. There will be a little dot next to the active trace you are editing. To make it simple, go into TRACE 0 and select SINGLE. This makes TRACE 0 the only visible one. - go to DISPLAY then FORMAT and select SWR. - now go to STIMULUS, edit the START and STOP to, say, 7.00 through 8.00 mHz. Pro tip: select the bottom right of the screen, the white space next to the numbers. This displays a numerical keyboard and you can just type 7 and click the [M] button for mHz. Way easier than clicking each number up or down! http://i.imgur.com/3oTppQs.jpg - go to RECALL SAVE menu and save as SAVE 0. Now, when you power on the unit, go to RECALL and select RECALL 0. It deletes the extra traces and sets the range from 7-8 mHz scanning the SWR. Set a recall up for the main ranges/formats you normally use to avoid fiddling with the traces all the time. Also, for $1, a stylus works well; like these.
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well because of this thread, i have ordered a nanovna myself LOL there are a number of good videos on the tube and was also going to post the groups Io link, but thats been covered. also there is a fbook group with a lot of the same members as the IO. however, while sifting thru the info in the groups Io. it would seem that a bunch of them are the various developers. one is the developer of the nanovna sharp software which is the preferred package. he has been taking development suggestions and implementing them in various revisions. those guys are posting to their various google drive or gethub accounts and letting everyone know. This path for development upgrades IMO is a much safer route than just poking around the web for stuff relating to the VNA anyhow, there is no direct links to all of the information, just need to start sifting thru it. im in no way a developer but im pretty handy. there is so much information in the group Io pages i feel pretty comfortable in loading, flashing and upgrading the unit once it gets here. i have no controlling interest in any of this, just posting my findings and hope it helps someone |
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Got mine in the mail today - yes, it's small - now to go back and read this thread from the beginning for some pointers, software, etc. And maybe fire up my 3D printer for a case. Looks like tomorrow I'll be playing with some of my antennas and feedlines... I was going to order from Amazon because I have a gift card, but several of the reviews for the ones that are around $50 state that they do not have the shielding even though the description says that they do. I might as well order from eBay if I can get it for < $50, shipped from US, and it has the shielding. Edit to add - do you have any links for good .stl files for cases for the one you received? My 3D printer has been collecting dust for a while, this is as good a reason as any to get it going again. Edit again - that seller's most recent feedback said there was no shielding on the one received. |
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I ordered mine from Amazon and it is shielded. I did pay a little
more to get it alot sooner, but I was impatient.
ETA-- Amazon link |
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I ordered mine from Amazon and it is shielded. I did pay a little more to get it alot sooner, but I was impatient.
ETA-- Amazon link |



