Posted: 8/14/2009 7:08:21 AM EDT
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I am going to finish building my generator shed this weekend (unless something comes up) and I will take pics. Now that I have the shed issue resolved, I have looked at my home service panel and it looks like I need to move only 4-circuts from the house panel to my emergency bakup panel to cover the critical items.
1 - Refrigerator 2 - Basement #1 (this curently has frig and two freezers on it) 3 - Basement #2 (sump pump and work bench at this time) 4. Blower for furnice Note - I didn't take notice if the air conditioning is on #4 too as we have a heat pump for air - air would not be on the generator so I really need to look again. Our heat and water is natural gas. My generator is a 5250 load with 7500 startup watts. I am not afraid to upgrade to a bigger generator if that is the advise I am given but I assume this should be adequate to run just these critical circuits. The generator does have a 120/240 Volt AC, 30 Amp, Locking Receptacle (NEMA L14-30 Plug) for loads up to 5,250 Watts at 21.8 Amps for 120 or 240 Volts (From the owners manual). Now, the panel I am looking at is this critter: Reliance Controls Transfer Switch Kit — 6 Circuit, Model# 31406CRK http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200196674_200196674 http://www.generac-generator-parts.net/electrical-generators/reliance-controls-transfer-switch-kit-6-circuit-model-31406crk.html The unit says it is 30-amp and rated to 7,500 Watts and 240 Volts. - Manual indoor surface-mount 6-circuit transfer switch - 6-circuit 7500 Watt (30 Amp) prewired transfer switch - Accommodates generators up to 7500 Watts continuous output - Built-in mounting brackets - Tie bars for 240V circuits - Watt meters - Prewired/built-in junction box - Re-settable push-button UL489 circuit breakers - 10ft. 30 Amp cord - 30 Amp Raintight™ power inlet box - Extra 20 Amp plug end The manufacturer website for this product is here: http://www.reliancecontrols.com/ProductDetail.aspx?31406CRK More Specs: http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Documents/S1204TE.pdf#page=3 Max Circuits Single Pole - 6 Max Circuits DOUBLE Pole - 1 Mag Gen Input Per Circuit - 4-15A, 2-20A They also make and sell a flush mount kit but given our home does not have a flush mounted panel I think I would just mount this next to the panel on a sheet of plywood. Now, the load I have may be too high to allow everything I have described (two friges, two freezers, furnace blower, and sump pump) to all run at the same time but I would use the panel to enable or disable some of the load as necessary. Anyways, I know I have posted a lot in here and I spend a good amount of time looking for a solution that would be somewhat easy to install and still be code friendly. I will hire an electrition to hook everything up and I will need to have the thing inspected by the town too (I have too much to risk if the house burnt down because of a mistake so the price is worth it to me). |
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You might want to think of adding one or two lighting circuits. Maybe in the kitchen and garage at least.
They take up little juice and can be helpful. Also an outlet circuit from the kitchen to run small appliances or in the living room for TV or in the garage for power tools. Time share the loads as needed. Wiring everything in at once will save you headache later and prevent draping extension cords through the house. Might also want to get a transfer switch with empty slots for future expansion. Once you use your setup, you may realize you want something else on the genny. I don't know what the quality of these are, but they're offered by Wise Sales. The 6, 10 and 12 circuit look like the same thing. The 6 circuit just has blank CB spots for future expansion. http://www.gen-tran.com/eshop/10Browse.asp?Category=MTS6-16 http://wisesales.com/GentranSwitches.html Is your sump pump on battery backup? Post pics of your final install! 
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We do not have the sump on a battery backup yet but it also only runs when we get the very rare PA Huricane type down pour. I do have a redundancy in the sump pump however as the builder put in a small pump and we added a much bigger pump. When I did this, I added the smaller pump to the pit at a higher elevation in case the larger pump might fail. I have thought about adding a 12v battery with inverter to run the smaller pump or possibly both pumps given only the bigger one has ever run even in the worst of flooding rains. Perhaps once I figure out my portable power pack setup I can just store it or make a second one to leave next to the sump pump. Our emergency supplies are in that area of the basement anyways so it is a logical place to store the charging batteries. Perhaps I can even get real solar panels to keep it charged
I will need to look at what is on the other circuits in the house as it would be nice to have the option to run electric upstairs too. Running a new line to the 1st floor would not be "too" difficult so we could run a lamp, radio, etc without overloading the gennerator. Thanks for the suggestions. |
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Quarterbore,
Not sure I understood that last comment about routing a new line. Posted for possible correction 
I think you could just route the lighting circuit from your existing panel to the transfer switch instead of running new coax. As I understand the transfer switches, the circuits run on the grid until you throw the transfer switch to power them off the genny. So the transfer box is just a sub panel. Assuming you are locating the transfer switch close to your primary panel. This is good discussion. I'll have to do this in a few months when I move to a new house. Thanks 
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Correct, I could add an extra line a couple ways. I could find a circuit that doesn't have much plugged in but I don't think that is going to leave me with a "lite" load without running around and unplugging TVs, Computers, Clocks, Coffee Makers, and everything else.
Instead, what I meant was I can run a new electric line from the subpanel to say the end of our kitchen island. Then, the outlet would work as it does now BUT that outlet would not be on a circuit with a bunch of other stuff so very little to no load. We could then plug anything we wanted into that outlet or even run an extension cord inside the house to say a TV if really necessary. Just thinking and perhaps there are other ways I can do this still. I could always buy a one of the bigger versions of this box with more circuits but my concern is the critical items. If we were going to power the whole house I know I would need a much bigger generator. |
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Quoted:
Just thinking and perhaps there are other ways I can do this still. I could always buy a one of the bigger versions of this box with more circuits but my concern is the critical items. If we were going to power the whole house I know I would need a much bigger generator. If you haven't spent the money yet, check out Honda's HP2S transfer switch. While not a substitue for a bigger genny, the configurable load shedding abilities of this unit will let you make the most of the generator that you have. |
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I tried to google it to get a price without any muck, do you have a rough idea what these cost? They look very nice but I am pretty sure that will cost a whole lot more then I can spend at this time. I really like the solar/battery tie in option and the extras capability it includes but realistically I expect this to be several times more then the panel I was looking at, not that it might not be worth it - I just haev run our generator once in five years due to a power outage so the investment is just not value added at this point.
If I had more Solar energy going, then this would make a lot of sense assuming you could use this to maximimize your solar energy consumption and minimizing your grid power use. Thanks for the link, but I need to crawl before I try to walk or run
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That is cheaper then I expected to be honest. I will look this up more when I get a chance but I am curious if this can run on three or more power sources...
1. Grid Power 2. Generator Power 3. 12v battery bank powered inverter 4. solar energy input as well (perhaps through tie in above #3) Well, then that would be slick! I found a reference on line with prices: http://www.steadypower.com/catalog/honda_gen_acc.php?category_id=341 20 Amp 6 Circuit Universal Transfer Switch (L14-20) - APC Supplies redundant AC power to connected equipment. The unit will automatically switch to the alternative power source when primary AC power fails. Ensures clean, uninterrupted power to protected equipment when generator power is used. Adaptive load management (ALM) automatically delays delayable devices like refrigerators when using non-delayable items to prevent overloading. Also uniquely designed to accept input power from any single phase, 120V power source such as a UPS, solar panel or other alternative energy power inputs. Input connections include: IEC-320 C14, NEMA 5-15P, and NEMA L14-20P. LCD display shows circuit loads, system parameters, and alarms. Multiple mounting methods. UL Listed. Optional Hardwire Kit available. MAX WATTS: 5000 PART NUMBER: 32315-UTS6BI HONDA CODE: 8944050 $399.99 ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– 30 Amp 10 Circuit Universal Transfer Switch (L14-30) - APC Supplies redundant AC power to connected equipment. The unit will automatically switch to the alternative power source when primary AC power fails. Ensures clean, uninterrupted power to protected equipment when generator power is used. Adaptive load management (ALM) automatically delays delayable devices like refrigerators when using non-delayable items to prevent overloading. Also uniquely designed to accept input power from any single phase, 120V power source such as a UPS, solar panel or other alternative energy power inputs. Input connections include: IEC-320 C14 and NEMA L14-30P. LCD display shows circuit loads, system parameters, and alarms. Multiple mounting methods. UL Listed. Optional Hardwire Kit available. MAX WATTS: 7500 PART NUMBER: 32315-UTS10BI HONDA CODE: 8944035 $499.99 ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– |
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––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– 30 Amp 10 Circuit Universal Transfer Switch (L14-30) - APC Supplies redundant AC power to connected equipment. The unit will automatically switch to the alternative power source when primary AC power fails. Ensures clean, uninterrupted power to protected equipment when generator power is used. Adaptive load management (ALM) automatically delays delayable devices like refrigerators when using non-delayable items to prevent overloading. Also uniquely designed to accept input power from any single phase, 120V power source such as a UPS, solar panel or other alternative energy power inputs. Input connections include: IEC-320 C14 and NEMA L14-30P. LCD display shows circuit loads, system parameters, and alarms. Multiple mounting methods. UL Listed. Optional Hardwire Kit available. MAX WATTS: 7500 PART NUMBER: 32315-UTS10BI HONDA CODE: 8944035 $499.99 ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Yep, that's what the guy I deal with sells 'em for. Probably knock $10 off per unit for a purchase of two. It's more $$$ than the Reliant, but it does a lot more for those extra $$$. |
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Quoted:
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––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– 30 Amp 10 Circuit Universal Transfer Switch (L14-30) - APC Supplies redundant AC power to connected equipment. The unit will automatically switch to the alternative power source when primary AC power fails. Ensures clean, uninterrupted power to protected equipment when generator power is used. Adaptive load management (ALM) automatically delays delayable devices like refrigerators when using non-delayable items to prevent overloading. Also uniquely designed to accept input power from any single phase, 120V power source such as a UPS, solar panel or other alternative energy power inputs. Input connections include: IEC-320 C14 and NEMA L14-30P. LCD display shows circuit loads, system parameters, and alarms. Multiple mounting methods. UL Listed. Optional Hardwire Kit available. MAX WATTS: 7500 PART NUMBER: 32315-UTS10BI HONDA CODE: 8944035 $499.99 ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Yep, that's what the guy I deal with sells 'em for. Probably knock $10 off per unit for a purchase of two. It's more $$$ than the Reliant, but it does a lot more for those extra $$$. Did you get it? I have finished my generator shed (well except I need to add shingles to the roof and finish securing the door) and then I want to buy a sub-panel and have an electrician come and move my critical circuits. I think this may be new but Northern Tool has a Reliance Loadside Generator switch that is a 30Amp with 8 Circuits now: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200321033_200321033 
This unit does not come with the 10-ft power cord like the kit I was originally looking at but where I had to put the generator shed will require more then a 10-ft cord anyways so going this route I am not paying for a cord that will be smaller then I need. My critical circuits are really only four but if I buy this I would add a circuit for the upstairs, downstairs, as well as an outlet in the garage or... 1 - Basement 1 - has sump pump 2 - Basement 2 - Has freezers and spare frig 3 - Refrigerator (kitchen) 4 - Furnace blower 5 - First Floor Circuit 6 - Second Floor Circuit 7 - Unused (likely outlet in garage next to subpanel) 8 - Unused - (future use) I will then buy a proper sized cable to run from the subpanel to the generator shed where the generator will run. I may also run a power cord from the subpanel (hence the extra outlet) back to the generator shed to power the fan that keeps the generator cool too) so that I can monitor the load on the generator using the built in gages. |
| Connect as many circuits as you can, you always have the choice later to just unplug or turn off items when on the gen power, but that way every outlet or light switch has the possibility of working. Im lucky my house panel is small and the transfer switch powers almost every circuit. |
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Yes do this for a couple a hundred. |
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When I used to wire houses that may at some point get a transfer switch I would do something like put the kitchen lights, hall lights, a bathroom light and maybe the garage lights on a circuit. THat way you can see to move around the house when the power is out and use the bathroom. I would also put one kitchen receptacle circuit on the subpanel so they could use a microwave or coffee pot.
The more you can put on the generator the handier it is, even if your generator cant handle it all at once. Depending on where you live it is nice to be able to run fridge, freezer in the summer and heating stuff in the winter. While fluff like the TV is generally not important.... when the power went out in the middle of a Stanley Cup playoff game it didnt take me long at all to get the generator up and running so we didnt miss much of the game. |