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Ok, this is what I would do if I had my Custom II back and I wanted to tinker with it (kind of in order):

Remove Swartz safety
Polish feed ramp
Wilson Combat magazines
MSH - I'd either get a Wilson or Ed Brown MSH to replace the plastic Kimber one, or get a one piece S&A MSH magwell combo.
Sights - The meprolights are fine, I'd also look at 10-8 sights for your gun in the Kimber cut.  I'd prefer the 10-8, but mepros would be fine if that is the course you want to take.
GI Guide Rod and plug - replace the factory one-piece guide rod/plug combo with either Ed Brown units or EGW units.  Go stainless for the parts, you can re-use the recoil spring if you want, or replace it with a Wolff spring.
VZ grips - any VZ's work.  I'd stick with a black setup.
Slide Release/stop - Replace with good steel one from Ed Brown or Wilson Combat.
Hammer/Sear/Disconnector kit - Otherwise know as ignition system.  I'd get a Cylinder and Slide one that has most of the fitting already done.
Trigger - Solid 10-8 trigger
Extractor - Wilson unit
Grip Safety - Ed Brown memory unit
Thumb Safety - Ed Brown single side or Wilson Combat ambi setup
Magazine release - 10-8 unit
Barrel bushing - get a Ed Brown unit
Front strap checkered 25lpi
Re-finished in Melonite or IONBond

I think that covers everything.

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I agree with this usually artsohc agree on most everything it seems you and me think a lot alike but I would only change the order a little but everything their is a great setup.

My changes would be a Nighthawk NM Trigger, replace the barrel and bushing, and the first two things I would do is change the MSH and guide rod.  I would choose Novak brand night sights with Trijicon lamps but that is my preference.

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There is a lot of good information here but I have some questions for you.
What is the deal with the swartz safety?  I know where it is because I see it every time I pull the gun apart for cleaning but I don't really get the problem that people have with it.  Does removing a firing pin safety really help the gun function?  To me, I rather like the idea of a built in safety if it doesn't hinder performance and, since the only gun I shoot has the safety, I don't know that I would notice the difference.

Can a person that is reasonably competent polish the feed ramps or is that strictly a job for a gunsmith?  You should be fine polishing but do not sand or take lots of metal off unless you know where to pull it properly.

You endorse multiple 10-8 products.  What is it that you like so much about 10-8?  I am not personally much of a fan of the look of a solid trigger but would sacrifice form for function if it is worth it.  I am not a fan of solid triggers either I like the skeleton.

What is the advantage of the GI guid rod over the existing setup?  Actually this is just preference no advantage function wise either way.  GI rod is lighter and FLGR is heavier can reduce muzzle flip.

Is there anything that you mentioned besides the front strap checkering and the refinish that should be done by a gunsmith (I am sure a better man could do  both but I don't know that I feel comfortable with either)?  This all depends on how much you are comfortable and your knowledge.

Thanks for the recommendations and the education.

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There is a lot of good information here but I have some questions for you.
What is the deal with the swartz safety?  I know where it is because I see it every time I pull the gun apart for cleaning but I don't really get the problem that people have with it.  Does removing a firing pin safety really help the gun function?  To me, I rather like the idea of a built in safety if it doesn't hinder performance and, since the only gun I shoot has the safety, I don't know that I would notice the difference.

Can a person that is reasonably competent polish the feed ramps or is that strictly a job for a gunsmith?  You should be fine polishing but do not sand or take lots of metal off unless you know where to pull it properly.

You endorse multiple 10-8 products.  What is it that you like so much about 10-8?  I am not personally much of a fan of the look of a solid trigger but would sacrifice form for function if it is worth it.  I am not a fan of solid triggers either I like the skeleton.

What is the advantage of the GI guid rod over the existing setup? Actually this is just preference no advantage function wise either way.  GI rod is lighter and FLGR is heavier can reduce muzzle flip.

Is there anything that you mentioned besides the front strap checkering and the refinish that should be done by a gunsmith (I am sure a better man could do  both but I don't know that I feel comfortable with either)?  This all depends on how much you are comfortable and your knowledge.

Thanks for the recommendations and the education.

Quoted:
There is a lot of good information here but I have some questions for you.

What is the deal with the swartz safety?  I know where it is because I see it every time I pull the gun apart for cleaning but I don't really get the problem that people have with it.  Does removing a firing pin safety really help the gun function?  To me, I rather like the idea of a built in safety if it doesn't hinder performance and, since the only gun I shoot has the safety, I don't know that I would notice the difference.  It's just one of those things, it doesn't add a lot of functionality and it could possibly break, so less is more.  Realistically you don't need to change anything, but it's a change that doesn't cost anything so I figured I throw it in.  Personally, I'd get rid of it, but other would disagree.  In the end, it's your choice.

Can a person that is reasonably competent polish the feed ramps or is that strictly a job for a gunsmith?  I polished my feed ramp with just some steel wool, if there are no major problems with the ramps then that's all you really need to do.  If it needs more work then it would depend on your ability, but if you plan to send the gun off for checkering and re-finishing I'd just have the gunsmith take care of it then.

You endorse multiple 10-8 products.  What is it that you like so much about 10-8?  I am not personally much of a fan of the look of a solid trigger but would sacrifice form for function if it is worth it.  I like 10-8 hardware, it's inexpensive and known for quality.  I like the look of a solid trigger over a skeleton one, but htat's just a preference thing.

What is the advantage of the GI guid rod over the existing setup?  Edge is right, they are very similar, and FLGR adds weight over the front of the gun, that said, most "high end" 1911 makers use the GI setup.  I like the ease of dis-assembly that the GI rod setup offers.

Is there anything that you mentioned besides the front strap checkering and the refinish that should be done by a gunsmith (I am sure a better man could do  both but I don't know that I feel comfortable with either)?  I'd also have the gunsmith take care of the barrel bushing fitting, but that's just me nad if you feel comfortable you could definitely attempt it.

Thanks for the recommendations and the education.

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Hope that helps.