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Buy a stock G17L slide.  Interchangeable parts and all that.


   Lone Wolf's slides use 100% stock Glock parts.  You can run a stock Glock barrel in one. The only non Glock parts I have on my both my custom G20/21L and LW G24 slides are the sights, a Lone Wolf barrel, and a stainless steel rod and recoil spring (the same ones that are used in the stock Glock slides).
A factory G17L runs fine with all stock parts.  Tennifer coating is good to go.    


The downside to the stock G17L slide is the stupid hole in the top.  My custom G24 balances the same as a stock one and the solid slide looks a whole lot better.

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1st, cutting coils off of your recoil spring will do nothing to address your extraction problem.  I'd strongly suggest that you purchase a new recoil spring, install it and leave it alone.  You need to look at both the extractor's grip on the case and the ease at which you can extract spent cases.  As it sounds like you've checked the extractor's grip on the case and you're satisfied with it so I'm inclined to guess that you've got a tight chamber issue.

Lone Wolf's chambers are match grade and may be a tad bit tight for your ammo. I'd suggest that you contact Lone Wolf and ask them if you can send back your barrel so that they can ream out the chamber a couple thousandths.  I don't own a 9mm but do have a Lone Wolf 40cal longslide and barrel I used to convert my G22 into a G24.  I had my chamber opened up a tiny bit when I first purchased my G24 barrel and slide to ensure that I have reliable feeding and extraction and it's been 100% reliable from the 1st shot.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/DSCN0081.jpg  

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I've owned Glocks for some 9 years.  Currently I own a G20L, G21, G21L, G22, G23, and G24.  I've shot over 27,000rds through my stock G22, 9,000rds through my G21, and 3,500rds thru my G23 and I understand the durability and limitations of Glock's barrels.  I understand that tenifering is a surface hardening process were Glock takes softer barrel blanks, machines them, and then surface hardens them.  

I understand that Glock does this because it's easier and cheaper to machine softer metals and then harden them.  I understand the metallurgical differences between a surface hardened soft steel and the more traditional barrel steel used by many other barrel makers.  I understand that US based barrel makers can't tenifer their designs because the process is banned here by the EPA.

I approached Kevin, owner of KKM Precision, and asked him to develop the world's first 45-10MM barrel for my G20/21L in late 2004.  We discussed the necessary requirements and he agreed to custom build a barrel for my use.  His first ever unit is in my pistol.  He sells his line of 45-10MM barrels because of the development work we did on mine.  

During talks with Kevin, we discussed his planned approach.  He explained at length both the strengths and weaknesses of Glock barrels and those made by others, including himself.  I've been to his company and seen his barrel making process in person near Carson City, Nevada.  We discussed at length the manufacturing process Glock uses and other barrel makers use.

I also worked with Dave Humke, owner of Glockparts.com who previously worked for Glock for over 25 years as a Master Armorer during my development of mt G20/21L.  He lives a short distance from me in Bailey, Colorado, and we've gotten together a few times to both discuss my project and then fire my G20/21L when it was completed.  As one of Glock's Master Armorer' Dave is and expert on Glocks.

I've worked with JR at Lone Wolf for years on various projects and in late 2007, I visited his shop in Old Town, Idaho where we discussed his then prototype stainless steel slides.  I understand the technical details of his design and both it's strengths and weaknesses.  I know about the problems he had with the Storm Lake standing behind their barrels he previously sold and now refuses to carry.  I understand the differences between the Storm Lake barrels and his current line of barrels.  

I'm also well aware of Caspian's slide cracking issues they endured, and some say they still are susceptible to which is why I don't have a Caspian slide.  In short, I've made myself fully knowledgeable both with the design of the Glock as well as the design of major suppliers of aftermarket parts for Glocks.  I've purchased and tested various aftermarket items under prolonged use and found some to work fine while others to not live up to their claims.

My comment about not liking the hole in Glock's longer slides is a personal like issue and not subject to your approval or disdain.  My comment about opening up the chambers specifically mentioned Lone Wolf's aftermarket barrels, not a Glock barrel.  The comment is based upon the fact that all of the aftermarket barrel makers provide Match Grade chambers.  This means that they are very tight and some people have feeding and extraction issues with them.  A simple way to avoid this issue is to open the chamber up a bit.  It's still within SAAMI specs but just not as tight as originally produced.  It's a suggestion borne of experience.

So, next time before you gather up you ego and put your foot in you mouth while you scream your ignorance to the masses, I suggest you step back a minute, take a breath, and consider what you really know vs what you only think you know.   It's clear that I know what I'm talking about concerning Glocks.  I'm wondering about you.
     

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Your rigging together of your "G20L" (for lack of a better word)  reminds me of when we fixed together my friend's car in high school.    I actually ended up using some parts from a washing machine (I think Maytag, but maybe it was a Whirlpool?) either way we got it together and running, but it was not what either of us wanted and to this date I am very thankful my current car is Maytag free, although I do think Maytag clearly knows what they are doing.

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Your rigging together of your "G20L" (for lack of a better word)  reminds me of when we fixed together my friend's car in high school.    I actually ended up using some parts from a washing machine (I think Maytag, but maybe it was a Whirlpool?) either way we got it together and running, but it was not what either of us wanted and to this date I am very thankful my current car is Maytag free, although I do think Maytag clearly knows what they are doing.

So what your rigged together 10mm longslide has to do with a 9mm G17L, I am not sure, but as long as you are impressing yourself, well heck, lets just say I am tossing you saltine cracker and a good job buddy for your work in that endeavor.   As far as JR, lets just say I do not hold the guy to anything he says.   He lost any trust and respect I might ever have for him, so you are better off citing a drunk paper bag in an alley as a reference.

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Oh, and skip the plastic holster.  Go "bandido" and just stick it in your waistband.  If the SHTF and you have to draw in a hurry your pecker will be too shriveled up from fear and the adrenaline dump that  your chances of blowing it off accidentally are pretty small (no pun intended, really).
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j/k about the holster....

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Steve,

All this angst, haranguing, and ego-stroking could have been avoided if you would have read the very first sentence in this thread!

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Nice setup, but I think that your issue is more to do with how it is configured than anything else. (figure added weight of the slide racker, plus the optics attachment)

I say this because I have seen several of the original 17L's (with ported barrels) make lots of brass out of fully loaded factory 115gr rounds (we're talking PMC, Rem/UMC, etc).

Something you may want to think about (instead of just cutting coils off of the recoil spring) is going to a lower rated spring from a retailer like Glockmeister-

http://www.glockmeister.com/Reduced-Power-Recoil-Spring-13-lb/productinfo/GL-13/
or
http://www.glockmeister.com/Reduce-Power-Recoil-Spring-11-lb/productinfo/GL-11/

I honestly believe your pistol to be "oversprung" in it's current configuration (at least for 115's).

I personally run a SS rod and 13# spring in my G17 and totally love how it handles (hence tfod's comment about recommended aftermarket accessories)

Just an idea, YMMV.  

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Anyone know of a good cheap source of 124 and 147gr 9mm ammo?

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And the answer is....  drum roll please!



A real gunsmith, he does have a shop and FFL, looked at my unGlock at the range, fired it a few times, took the slide off, and put his finger on it, literally!  (I think he already knew the answer without wasting my ammo)



The part of the slide in the center that strips rounds from the magazine and holds the rounds down when the slide is closed was 1/8" too high(or low depending on if its on the gun or off.)  This induced a huge amount of drag when cycling.



I was told what feels like a normal slide pull acts very differently when being pushed by the recoil impulse.  Thus explaining why it always held open on the last shot, there was no drag from a round rubbing on the bottom of the slide.



I took a real 17L and 17 slide and measured them against the LW slide and the LW was a little more than 1/8" proud.



So out comes the only gunsmith tool everyone should own, (a dremel for you new guys), and off comes the metal.



Yesterday it ate everything I could stuff in the magazine, even a few underpowered steel roosky rounds I had in the bottom of my gun box, and flipped them out about 5-8 feet instead of laying them on the bench.



When Dan Shepard at Lone Wolf returns my call, I will see what he has to say.  We talked for about 20 minutes Monday and he was very nice and helpful, but he was not shooting or looking at my gun.  Even though he didnt have the answer off the top of his head, I must say that he is one of the best assets a company could have.  



I dont know if all the LW slides are cut this way, but on the long slide, with all the extra mass, it is too much metal on the centerline and too steep to cycle reliably.



Thanks for all the help!  Live and learn.



JT