Posted: 10/11/2006 5:23:02 AM EDT
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I've seen threads more times than I can remember regarding Full Length Guide Rods (FLGRs). It seems to be one of the most frequent threads in the 1911 forum. Most posters are relative 1911 newbies who wonder if they should add one to their gun that has a standard guide rod/plug setup. It is always fun to see the ensuing battle between the two camps on this one. While I remain a standard guide rod guy, I also don't think FLGRs are all that horrible. I love to hear how people say that it keeps the spring from binding or kinking though, as anyone who has seen a cutaway 1911 knows it's impossible for the spring to kink while in the gun. Those who have seen kinked or bent 1911 recoil springs have only witnessed a gun that was improperly disassembled. Those who feel the gun cycles smoother are just feeling the difference between the recoil spring rubbing the FLGR instead of the frame's dustcover. You can't really feel it rub the FLGR, though on some guns you can feel it rub the dustcover, which gives the illusion that the gun cycles smoother after switching to a FLGR. I'm sure that this thread will generate enthusiastic responses from both sides. That's part of the fun of talking guns, I suppose. However, for those who are looking for real advice on the FLGR issue, consider this excellent article from American Handgunner, and enjoy your 1911, FLGR or standard: www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BTT/is_147_24/ai_62655365 |
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FLGRs are very handy on switch top guns. They allow the entire top end to come off in one piece. I can switch calibers in about one minute. Mag out, check chamber, slide stop out, slide off, new slide on, insert slide stop, new mag. Good to go. It actually costs about as much as another lower end gun, but I got enough requests I made one up and have done a couple more over the years. It does turn heads at the range when the noise changes from .45 to .38 super in what appears to be the same gun. |
For mine I was told to keep the threads totaly clean of any kind of oil so you might want to check that. Some people put teflon tape on the threads or even loctite it everytime. Blah. |
You can change to a one piece guide rod. There are two types, one needs a paperclip to disassemble the gun, the other is slightly shorter and disassembles without special tools. Blue loctite can help on a treaded version. |
Teflon tape I could deal with IF I didn't have to change it out every time. Forget about the Loctite. Sounds like a PITA. Wildearp - if I was going to change the setup, it would be to a GI plug. Just for ease of takedown. I don't even like having to use an allenwrench in the current setup! Thanks for your suggestions and sorry if I hijacked the thread! Edited to add - if anyone knows links to the one-peice guide rods that don't require tools for takedown, I would appreciate it. |
Not...  Full length guide rods might be nice for game guns but I won't have one on my pistols if for no other reason than they just don't look right. IMO, they don't do anything tangible for the way a gun feels that a well-done frame and slide fit can't accomplish. |
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The one piece FLGRs that use the hollow plug are not substantially more difficult to disassemble than a regular GI setup. If the edges of the plug hurt your fingers, push it down with the base of a cartridge. I don't see what the big deal is about them, if I had one in a gun, I wouldn't spend $30 to replace it. The Springfield style 2-piece is crap. |
None of these designs use a barrel bushing either. |
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Like bushing less bull barrels, it adds forward weight that will not move with the slide. Granted that on the standard steel rods, you only going to get a few oz more frame fixed weight than you may or not feel, but with a tungsten rod, you will feel the difference in felt recoil. If someone want to write them off as a match/race type of accessory, that fine, but considering the amount of people that have problems shooting the 1911 due to the amount of recoil that the pistols have, every bit of recoil reduction is a step in the right direction to help them master the pistols. So in regards to what Browning designed, you're right, the standard spring plug is fine. But them again, Browning didn't design the pistol to eat the same hole out of the target each time, and this is where the FLSG and a whole lot of other tricks comes into place upgrading the old service pistol into a match/race ready rig. Note: The beaver tail grip safety is an upgrade as well over the old pistol design, but I don't see anyone bitching about it. |
Again I have to point out in the direction of race/match pistols, you are springing the pistol for ideal ejection distances/felt recoil (read fine tuning/clipping springs). As is known, too much spring tension, just like too little will produce more felt recoil. When you're adjusting recoil springs for the exact ideal ejection/ least amount of recoil, the spring consistency tracking down a polished rod will produce more constant results than if the spring is free to scrap down/the coils bounce off the pistol parts, as it compresses. |
Pardon me????????????  I have seen rookies shoot the 1911 as if born to it, where they had problems with virtually every other semi out there................. |
| Full length guide rods will break just when you don't need them to. I have seen and heard of USPSA shooters dnf because one broke, That is why I don't use them, it may slow me down some but I am not nor will I ever be a master class shooter. About the best i can do now days is 6 center hits in 4.3 sec at ten yards. |
The guide rod systems that are breaking are the two stage systems with sending the end plug and inner rod down range. The problem is the inner rod is very thin, and due to the smaller threads, the rod threads just strip out of the end plates. Trust me, you don't snap a solid guide rod just short of taking a sledgehammer to it. |
OK, I'll pick up where the other's left off; I don't like beavertail grip safeties.  I never had hammer bite with my hand grasping the pistol properly. I have a kimber classic stainless target with a FLGR and a BT grip safety. I am waiting for my springfield milspec to arrive to go back to "normal". GI type plunger and short guide rod and GI(ish) grip safety. Only thing I'll end up doing is dumping the key mainspring housing for a GI flat type. Sometime down the road I'll go with tritium sites and I'll declare her combat ready. SoS |
COMMON SENSE??? THIS IS A RELIGIOUS DISCUSSION!!!! and all of this this FLGR talk is quickly approaching HERESY!!!! |