Posted: 2/23/2007 5:44:25 PM EDT
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Anybody ever heard of this happening? Here's the story: Picked up a new Colt Defender two weeks ago. Went to the range, had some extraction problems; fairly random, but every 15 rounds, or so, the extractor would jump the rim and fail to extract. Get it home, check the extractor tension...is very weak. Well, no big deal, was going to have a local smith do a trigger job, so I figure Ill have him tune the extractor while it's there. So, pick the pistol up today (great trigger job BTW) and head straight to the range. Same crap. Head straight back to the smith, he adjusts the tension again. Get home, strip the pistol and check the tension with the extractor in the pistol (using the loaded round/shake the slide method). The extractor barely grips WWB cases, and Corbon and Speer brass falls right out. Scratch my head. At this point I pull out two other 1911s that I know have perfect extractors (est. 8000 rounds through both with no extraction issues); both Kimbers. I remove the extractors from both pistols, and check the Colt extractor in both. Tension is perfect in both Kimbers. So, I then try both of the Kimber extractors in the Colt...same problem, no tension on the case. At this point I'm getting what the problem is. Nevertheless, just to be sure, I grab a spare extractor to play around with. No matter how much bend I put in the extractor, it still will not grip the case any harder; I had that extractor bent pretty much sideways and it made no difference other than barely being able to push it in the channel. Visually it appears the Colt extractor channel was cut too far to the side of the slide for the extractor to be tensioned, regardless of how much it is bent. Have not measured it, but based on the results from the three different extractors, I'm guessing it is out of spec. Agree? If not, what is your theory? |
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Improperly drilled extractor channels do happen. First though, use a .22 cal bore brush to ensure the extractor channel has no gunk in it (I know you picked it up 2 wks ago, just in case). When the pistol is fired, carbon, lead, etc. accumulates in the extractor channel and can prevent the extractor from moving as it should. The above info has cured FTEs for several people on this list, and should be done from time to time anyway. If that doesn't fix it, two options: 1/send it back to Colt 2/remove the extractor and look at it. about 1/2way back is a thick portion about 1/4" wide, protruding inboard and outboard when looking from bird's eye view, imagine the extractor installed in the pistol (cutaway drawing view). There is one "pad" inboard, and another "pad" outboard. If you take material off of the inboard pad (use a medium india stone or very carefully use a fine file), the extractor can now move toward the rim. Use dial calipers to measure so you only and take off a little at a time (.005" or so), then test fit for extractor hook engagement on the rim and also for tension. Don't take off too much material! This will likely fix your problem. I have fixed two Kimbers doing the above. Good luck, SF Colt 1911 armorer |
Thanks for the response. I'm inclined to just send the slide back to Colt. I'm guessing that since the Colt extractor dropped into the other two 1911s with no problem (i.e. no fitting), and none of the four extractors that worked in other 1911s would work in the Colt, that this is more a defect from the factory than it is a need to fit the extractor to the Colt. Is this a correct assumption (that it wasn't drilled properly)? Or, is it common to have to fit an extractor to that degree? ETA: Got to thinking about your repair suggestion. As the extractor is pretty far off from where it needs to be, wouldn't removing material from the inboard pad (to the degree I may have to to get tension) result in excessive movement of the extractor within the channel? Thanks again. |
Sending the slide back is probably the safe thing. It may not be right due to tolerance stacking during the production process. Let Colt check it. You should not have to apply that much tension and have it still not work. Removing material from the pad will allow the extractor to be where it needs to be, it won't result in any more movement than with a correctly dimensioned extractor and channel. You will, however create that condition if you remove too much material. Go slow, test often. The pads are there for that reason: to fine tune the extractor if needed. When I first encountered this condition working on a friend's gun, I was driving myself crazy trying to figure out how to fix it. Kimber kept saying nothing was wrong and sending out more extractors. After looking at the armorer's manual, I found the section about relieving the pad. It works. This is yet another of JMB's smart ideas. |
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Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it. I guess I'll drop by the Gunsmith, relay the information I received here, and see what he can do; he'll continue to work on it until it's right at no additional charge, and if it's as simple as you guys think, I'm sure he can. If for some reason it is something he cannot remedy, I'll just send it back to Colt and let them figure it out. I'm all for fiddling around with pistols and learning along the way, but as this is intoned for CC - and I've never done this before - I'll leave it to those with experience. Anybody know Colt's feelings on having gunsmiths work on your pistol and later warranty work? The Smith is licensed, has been around for almost 30 years, and apparently specializes in custom 1911 work. Thanks Again. |