Posted: 3/16/2010 11:53:24 AM EDT
| I know this has been hashed out in the past but my searches don't come up with anything. Anyway, I have an old 92FS that I bought second hand. I has the old style locking block, which is prone to failure. I plan to order a latest generation replacement kit to have as a spare. The current locking block will not come out due to interference with the plunger, so I will have to remove the plunger and pin to get it out. This not something that I want to do on a part that is not broken yet. My question is it safe to run the pistol until the ears on the locking block break and then replace it or should this be done immediately. |
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Hi, I am not sure if the removal is different on the old style locking block vs. the new ones, but maybe this will help.
http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-remove-locking-block-from-beretta-92fs-pistol-240866/ Dugk |
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The newer locking block requires that the plunger be replaced at the same time. The older locking block has a round plunger and wide cut out into the locking block to fit it. The newer locking block has a square cut out (more metal in this block) and uses a plunger with a square tip. Easy to replace, just punch out the retaining pin, swap out the plungers and replace pin & block.
You should monitor the recoil guide spring length as well as inspect the locking block ears when you clean the pistol. The block can have a crack and still function, until it lets go. The recoil spring should be longer than your barrel,,, if in doubt buy a new spring, measure it and monitor its wear. When it gets short, the locking block gets pounded in recoil and this will cause trouble. If your locking block breaks, do not rack the slide repeatedly in hopes if the parts falling out. Most times, you need to use a dental pick to ease the broken ear into alignment with the slide and play with it to get it all lined up so that the slide can be removed from the frame. If you rack the slide a bunch, the broken ear can become deformed and will not be easily lined up and allow the slide to be removed from the frame. Shoot the pistol and regularly inspect for cracking in the locking block/slide. Replace your springs as they become worn. Enjoy. |
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Thanks you all,
This pistol will be my SHTF sidearm, so I guess I should go ahead and replace the locking block and quit worrying about it. It sounds like it would be pain to replace when broken. My recoil spring is still approximately a 1/2" longer than the barrel. |
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I have thousands of rds thru my first 92FS w/o any block issues, FWIW. As for the recoil spring, I think I'd compare it to a NIB spring rather than the bbl length, IMO. My .o2 I agree sir, the barrel length vs. spring length is a quick & dirty way to measure the spring wear. 
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Everyone who has posted earlier has offered great, real-world advice. But I'm in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" camp. I've owned and used an older , Italian-manufactured, 1989-dated 92F for decades, with the original, perfect Factory locking-block. I would offer the opinion that if it were MY pistol, I'd change the used recoil-spring (cheap insurance, $2.00) with a Factory Beretta example and leave the pistol alone. It's been my PERSONAL experience that the Beretta 92 is extremely reliable and trouble-free, as long as Factory magazines (P.B.and/or MDS) or Mec-Gar magazines are used exclusively, the platform is as close to "bullet-proof" as can be made by man.
Just one man's opinion but save your money, keep your weapon as you purchased it and enjoy it's high-quality/reliable performance for the rest of your life. Don't worry, be happy! 
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I've owned and used an older , Italian-manufactured, 1989-dated 92F for decades, with the original, perfect Factory locking-block. I would offer the opinion that if it were MY pistol, I'd change the used recoil-spring (cheap insurance, $2.00) with a Factory Beretta example and leave the pistol alone. I'm not sure where you're getting a $2 recoil spring, but the ones from Wolf are running $10+ for about any recoil spring they make........................ But I too am still on my original locking block & have thousands of rds thru it via IPSC shooting. 
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Bob,
Since BerettaUSA no longer sells Factory 92/96 parts since the last time I ordered from them a few years back, it appears they've handed all parts sales over to Brownell's. That's not too bad, heck the price of Factory Beretta 13lb 92/96 recoil-spring seems to have dropped from $2.00 to $1.69! It's still Beretta USA Part# C90198 for the full-size 92/96 recoil-spring. The only downside I can see is the price Brownell's charges for shipping, BerettaUSA used to run Free Shipping offers every month or so. Well hopefully Brownell's can keep everything In Stock, something Beretta USA seemed to have a hard time doing. |
| My wife's Beretta Italian 92FS from about 1989 had the locking block break soem yaers back after a lot of rounds through it. Simple replacement and I have been chugging along fine since. I'de run the one in it till it broke....check for cracks occasionally and you should be fine. |
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FWIW I think the 92FS locking block replacement issue is overblown quite a bit concerning the average consumer, the round count they'll shoot, and the ammo used. Btw there are like 4 plus generations of locking blocks and locking block plunger combinations... Don't all panic..
I have 4-1/2 beretta 92FS's, (one spare complete upper) and two of them are definitely gen 1, and two are gen 2, and the last one is like a mix of gen 1-2 with a slightly different plunger than the other 4 but a gen 2 block. My point is this is over 24 years and many thousands of rounds through 'most of them' with only a recoil spring changes. I have also fired a great deal of +P and NATO rounds through them and there are no apparent signs the blocks are failing me. I also have lots a freinds with them, and they have had the same 'luck'? Yes, I read on forums that some have broken, but it's not an epidemic. I know there are shooters out there that will push the the beretta (which means the block) to it's limits and break some, but frankly I don't think the second 'anyone' (general shooters) gets an older 92FS they need to replace the block like it's going to fail immediately. YMMV " |
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I know this has been hashed out in the past but my searches don't come up with anything. Anyway, I have an old 92FS that I bought second hand. I has the old style locking block, which is prone to failure. I plan to order a latest generation replacement kit to have as a spare. The current locking block will not come out due to interference with the plunger, so I will have to remove the plunger and pin to get it out. This not something that I want to do on a part that is not broken yet. My question is it safe to run the pistol until the ears on the locking block break and then replace it or should this be done immediately. I have been shooting the same 92F for 25 years and nothing has broken on it yet. Why assume that all of a sudden they are not safe? |
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I have been shooting the same 92F for 25 years and nothing has broken on it yet. Why assume that all of a sudden they are not safe? He's asking if it's safe to run it until the block ears break (if ever) rather than "is the gun safe?", IMO. I would say "no" to the former & "absolutely" to the latter. |
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Where you guys buying the newest generation locking block kits? I'd like to get a spare. I'm considering having it coated in FailZero. Locking block Plunger Factory recoil spring (WAY cheaper than Wolff) |
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Where you guys buying the newest generation locking block kits? I'd like to get a spare. I'm considering having it coated in FailZero. Locking block Plunger Factory recoil spring (WAY cheaper than Wolff) Hey deltaheavy, Do you know for sure that Brownells is shipping 3rd gen parts? I emailed them and they said: "The parts you reference are brand new current production parts that we purchase directly from Beretta. My assumption is that they are "3rd generation" parts but Beretta has not provided that information for us." |