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AR15.COM
7/14/2026 8:17:53 AM EDT
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1920557541948202/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

What do you think it would cost to finish out a 5x8 trailer like this?

1" foam for insulation with thin paneling. Insulated flooring too. A window. Nothing extravagant for electric, I would just run 110 connection and probably use a 6 outlet extension.

Main need is I want something with AC so I would install a small window unit. Probably pick up a 8x8 or 10x10 canopy tent to step out into which I've seen on amazon.
7/14/2026 8:53:46 AM EDT
[#1]
tnttt.com is the arfcom for those trailers. Spent quite a long time reading about them.
-locked for later review by fuck bitch.- system message (Aimless)
NorCal codename- choad
7/14/2026 9:14:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ColtRifle][Edited] [#2]
I currently camp in a converted cargo trailer. I don’t have a rooftop AC unit but I recommend one over a window unit. I have a window unit and it’s just ok. Not great.

I will be replacing my cargo trailer camper with an actual camper trailer within the next 3-5 years.

I did mine about 12 years ago. I paid around $3500 for the trailer new and put maybe $1500 or so into it to turn it into a camper.
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
7/14/2026 9:41:20 AM EDT
[Last Edit: urbanredneck][Edited] [#3]
Quote History
Originally Posted By ColtRifle:
I currently camp in a converted cargo trailer. I don’t have a rooftop AC unit but I recommend one over a window unit. I have a window unit and it’s just ok. Not great.

I will be replacing my cargo trailer camper with an actual camper trailer within the next 3-5 years.

I did mine about 12 years ago. I paid around $3500 for the trailer new and put maybe $1500 or so into it to turn it into a camper.
View Quote


I'm limited on height because I need to get it into the my garage so I'm limited to a portable AC or a window unit. I would confirm height restrictions. A portable AC would probably be the best option because I could pull it out and use it in the tent area. The only issue is drainage.

I'm just looking for something for now. Ultimately I'd like to get a Casita/escape/camp and travel with my wife.
7/14/2026 10:20:00 AM EDT
[#4]
Make sure it’s tall enough to stand up in without bending. I would go longer also.
17 And that no man might buy or sell, save he that had the mark, or the name of the beast, or the number of his name.
7/14/2026 11:47:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: intheburbs][Edited] [#5]
I have a 6x12 enclosed single-axle trailer.  76" inside height.  I figured I could finish out a really tits stealth camp trailer for about $5-$7k - solar, running water, toilet, kitchen, etc.
Posterity! You will never know, how much it cost the present Generation, to preserve your Freedom! I hope you will make a good Use of it. If you do not, I shall repent in Heaven, that I ever took half the Pains to preserve it.---John Adams
7/14/2026 12:41:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Re: solar

Our camper (2020 Coachmen Apex Nano 187RB with Outfitter and Off-Grid packages) started out with 100w solar, cheap PWM controller.  We upgraded it with 4x100w renogy panels in series, and a 40A MPPT Renogy controller, and 2x 100Ah EcoWorthy LiFePo4 batteries.  We only have a little tiny inverter to run the TV (PSU in the TV was integrated with the main board, so I couldn't easily put a 12v jack on it) but that's it.  We don't use the AC or microwave while boondocking.  Generally we're outside of the camper anyway, so no big deal.  But, for the rest of the stuff that uses 12v (furnace controller and blower motor, fridge electronics, water heater electronics, lights, etc) that setup pretty much allows us to keep the batteries at or above 13v all the time.  It's pretty fantastic.  When picking out solar stuff, make sure you can run panels in series to increase the voltage, and keep the current the same.  A 1-2v drop across your wires at 100v (or 90'ish in reality) is no big deal, but a 1-2v drop (or more) at 25v (or less) is a bigger hit if your panels are in parallel.  Cheaper controllers may only support 25 or 50 volts of panel voltage.
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.

"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
7/14/2026 12:42:18 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote History
Originally Posted By Oldgold:
Make sure it's tall enough to stand up in without bending. I would go longer also.
View Quote
And, if it has a side entry door, make sure it's tall enough to walk thru without bending.  My 7x14 cargo trailer's door is short, and I've hit my head on it a few times.   Glad were not camping in it.  
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.

"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
7/14/2026 6:25:55 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote History
Originally Posted By urbanredneck:


I'm limited on height because I need to get it into the my garage so I'm limited to a portable AC or a window unit. I would confirm height restrictions. A portable AC would probably be the best option because I could pull it out and use it in the tent area. The only issue is drainage.

I'm just looking for something for now. Ultimately I'd like to get a Casita/escape/camp and travel with my wife.
View Quote




Well height restrictions are definitely an issue with a rooftop AC.

Portable AC units do work but they are less efficient than a window unit. So, go larger than the BTU numbers indicate.
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
7/15/2026 10:05:08 AM EDT
[#9]
I've been edging toward this rabbit hole myself of late. I saw on some Youtube videos of people using a small mini-split unit and mounting the condenser on the front wall of the trailer so as not to have it on the roof.
7/15/2026 3:03:25 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote History
Originally Posted By haliaetus:
I've been edging toward this rabbit hole myself of late. I saw on some Youtube videos of people using a small mini-split unit and mounting the condenser on the front wall of the trailer so as not to have it on the roof.
View Quote




Having installed a few mini splits (though never in a camper) a couple thoughts…..

Mini splits usually have min line lengths. For Pioneer, they recommend no shorter than 5ft and if that short, they recommend removing a small amount of refrigerant. 1 oz maybe? So keep that in mind if you decide to put one on a cargo trailer. I’ve seen some that appear to be working fine.

The TnTTT site is a good resource. I used it for some of my inspiration. Haven’t been there in awhile so no idea how active the site is now.
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
7/16/2026 4:17:03 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote History
Originally Posted By Oldgold:
Make sure it’s tall enough to stand up in without bending. I would go longer also.
View Quote


Bay door on my garage restricts me to 80" off the ground. So the trailer will basically be for hauling gear and sleeping. I'm going to get a canopy to step out into that will where I can stretch my legs. Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DXFT2YGX/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0DXFT2YGX&pd_rd_w=E161O&content-id=amzn1.sym.17345c9b-ef8c-4a79-bcd9-8894b1e1e0ea&pf_rd_p=17345c9b-ef8c-4a79-bcd9-8894b1e1e0ea&pf_rd_r=CBWPH6929YYDT7B0QWPW&pd_rd_wg=FUAtS&pd_rd_r=0e792928-2a66-4eaf-8ae8-9e5593c494c2&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

7/16/2026 4:20:49 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Originally Posted By Dopple:
Re: solar

Our camper (2020 Coachmen Apex Nano 187RB with Outfitter and Off-Grid packages) started out with 100w solar, cheap PWM controller.  We upgraded it with 4x100w renogy panels in series, and a 40A MPPT Renogy controller, and 2x 100Ah EcoWorthy LiFePo4 batteries.  We only have a little tiny inverter to run the TV (PSU in the TV was integrated with the main board, so I couldn't easily put a 12v jack on it) but that's it.  We don't use the AC or microwave while boondocking.  Generally we're outside of the camper anyway, so no big deal.  But, for the rest of the stuff that uses 12v (furnace controller and blower motor, fridge electronics, water heater electronics, lights, etc) that setup pretty much allows us to keep the batteries at or above 13v all the time.  It's pretty fantastic.  When picking out solar stuff, make sure you can run panels in series to increase the voltage, and keep the current the same.  A 1-2v drop across your wires at 100v (or 90'ish in reality) is no big deal, but a 1-2v drop (or more) at 25v (or less) is a bigger hit if your panels are in parallel.  Cheaper controllers may only support 25 or 50 volts of panel voltage.
View Quote


A power station, panels and a cassette toilet may be in the future but for now, my hunting spot has electric and facilities so it will work as is.

Ultimately this is a temporary set-up. Ultimately I would like to buy a Casita/Escape/Scamp or something similar when my wife can travel with me. Would like to spend a few months a year out and about.
7/20/2026 12:53:49 PM EDT
[#13]
I think a cargo trailer with a decent bed and an actual toilet shower would be pretty handy.
BikerNut:
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.

People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.

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