Posted: 12/4/2002 3:39:28 AM EDT
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Hey guys - I figured someone here might know the answer to this question. I bought my house 5 years ago and it had an electric water heater in it. I'm sure it was probably here for at least 1-2 years prior to that though the house sat dormant all that time with no one in it. We have always had a bit of a sediment problem up here - we have well water and it is pretty high in iron. It also gets pretty silted up after a very hard rain. I've always wondered about how efficient this water heater is, since I've poured a lot of money into new insulation, new high-efficiency windows, doors, insulated storm doors, and 2 years ago an expensive high efficiency heat pump and furnace, not to mention the new wood burning fireplace stove. But my electric bills don't seem to reflect any of these savings. So I began to wonder if my water heater (which I recall reading somewhere was the second biggest user of electricity in the house) was performing poorly. So, I decided to drain the water heater (recommended in a book I have on appliances) and perhaps check the anode. This is where I ran into a problem. I cut off the water intake valve into the water heater. When I opened up the drain valve on the bottom of the water heater, a bare trickle of water came out. Now, if I open the intake valve back up water comes rushing out. Is it possible that there is so much silt and sediment and junk that it won't allow normal gravity to drain the tank? Are my electrical bills not changing much at all indicative of a highly inefficient water heater? The tank is a 50 gallon tank, which I always thought might be a bit too big for us - just my wife and I. Part of me really doesn't want to go through the expense of a new one, but I figured that if it was costing me money each month due to inefficiency, not to mention the very real possibility of complete failure or rust-through in the not too distant future (it is a "8 year" water heater, and I assume that is a conservative estimate based on good clean water, not the high mineral, high sediment water I get) - and I'm on at least the 6th-7th year right now.) That being said, if the recommendation is to get a new water heater, what size should I get, any opinions on brand, and more importantly is there anyone in the Knoxville, TN area that could help me install it? Thanks, guys! |
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Sounds like there is a huge amount of build up in that tank. You may want to put some filter units on the line before it enters, or a good filter on all incoming water. That sediment would cut down on efficiency if it were a gas unit, don't know how much it would affect your particular electric, depends on the layout of the elements. Water heaters are not that expensive compared to the energy they use, a new one might have better controls and feed back such that it might save you a small bundle. |
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That's what I was thinking. I can only imagine the buildup I must have there. I've been thinking of a inline water filter where the line comes into the house - I have the perfect place for it. Just not looking forward to all the work I'll have to do :) Hell, this might be a job for a licensed plumber. Maybe get the guy who installs the water heater to do the filter install as well. Sure wish someone on this board knew what he was doing - I'd rather keep this "in the family" :) |
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Stupid question- did you open ut something near the top to let air into the tank so it can drain? Dont forget that the water heater is part of a sealed system. Pull the safety valve open when you open the drain see if that helps if you didnt already. If you did that then... Might let it drain under pressure for a bit then drain it under gravity, refill and repeat. If you are really concerned and really in the market for a new one make sure your new one has a fill tube that spirals near near the bottom, these cut down on the sediment by quite a bit. The sediment itself shouldnt cause any rusting problems, near all water heater failures are around the anode, fill, and drain spigots, due to galvanic actionthing the tank material itself is usually either glass/ceramic/plastic lined to there is rarely any corrosion problems there. |
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I had a filter system in a prior house. They are relatively cheap, parts wise. You can get double filter versions, one that takes out particles, and one for taste, purity. Some of the filters are reusable. It amazed me the amount of iron the filter stopped. Usually took 2 weeks to turn rusty. Cost to intall probably wont be to steep if it's done when a new water heater goes in. FYI electric water heaters ain't cheap to run. Is it possible to get a gas water heater? |
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Quoted: This is where I ran into a problem. I cut off the water intake valve into the water heater. When I opened up the drain valve on the bottom of the water heater, a bare trickle of water came out. Now, if I open the intake valve back up water comes rushing out. Thanks, guys! Ever stick a straw in a drink, put your finger over the end of it and lift it up? The fluid stays in the straw! This is what you are doing. Close the inlet valve, open the drain,(attach a hose to outside first), then open a couple of hot water taps, the W/H will drain..... Also, pull the heating elements and clean 'em. Test them too, one may be dead. |
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Quoted: Stupid question- did you open ut something near the top to let air into the tank so it can drain? Dont forget that the water heater is part of a sealed system. Pull the safety valve open when you open the drain see if that helps if you didnt already. Exactly what I was thinking. Try opening a hot water faucet or the relief valve and see if that helps it drain quicker. I forgot to vent mine when I drained it and thought it was going to take forever. Finally, about an hour or so later, I remembered to vent it and it took no time at all to finish draining. |
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Although newer heaters use less electicity and are realitively inexpensive around $300, your pay back on savings is a pretty long time. Unless you have Con Ed that is. Go to Lowes etc and read the annual usage on new ones and compare. I think you find you are better off fincially to Clean out the sediment before she springs a leak and put an inexpensive blanket insulator on her. In about two years go ahead and buy a new one. It'l be due to have problems about then based on your water quality. Alot of electric companies run a rebate program and will actually help you buy one if you plan for it around the rebate. Call and see. |
| Damn, I just noticed you're TN. If you have TVA then you like me have the lowest rates in the USA. The guys from Chicago would cry their asses off if they knew how low our rates are. Hydro power rules. Like you, love my heat pump. I heat/cool 3000 sq/ft year round for around $150/month. Eat your heart out Con Ed victims. |
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I just ordered a tankless water heater today. It is a Niagra Titan. $240.95 shipped. No more high electric bill and no more running out of hotwater. Three people I know have them and like them very much. The "popoff" valve needs to be opened before you can drain that water tank Greywolf2112. You can remove the botton element and run a modified shop vac nozzle in there to remove the mineral deposits. I have a used 40 gallon water heater that will be on the market next week if your interested. |
| [s]Tanks[/s][b]Thanks[/b], Pangea. I've been thinking of putting in a gas, on-demand water heater for a while. The water heater I have is only a few years old. The price of the gas tankless models at the local Home Depot are about $750. I haven't run the numbers, but I don't think the savings would be worth it, yet. I also want to integrate a solar water heater with the demand heater. I found an article on [url]www.homepower.com[/url] describing how to do it. |