Posted: 8/28/2016 9:03:18 AM EDT
|
I have a 2006 Forester with 90K on the clock and no turbo.
It has had an easy life with my old lady and has had all the fluids changed when needed. The problem. I have a noise that has progressively gotten louder (over years) coming from the right (passenger) rear. Since it I've noticed it I have changed the rear diff oil 2X and no metal filings. The noise is droning at this point that changes in volume with speed. Slow, not as noticeable Med 40 to 60. Very noticeable 65+ it becomes not as bad as lower speeds. Also if I'm turning right at highway speeds the drone falls off the more I turn. Im inclined to say its the right rear bearing than the the diff because of where I'm hearing the noise coming from. Ok, Go. And thanks. |
|
Quoted:
Rock the steering wheel left right on an open road. If the noise increases and decreases as the vehicle leans on and off the suspect wheel, the bearing is the culprit. Pretty sure that's what you're seeing in the OP at highway speed. That is exactly what I was thinking. There is no change in the noise with or without load (giggity). Diff problems will have the harmonics change with different loads (giggity). |
|
Quoted:
This is the inside info I am looking for from the ARF.Cers in the know. Quoted:
Quoted:
I thought wheel bearings were a common problem on those cars. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile This is the inside info I am looking for from the ARF.Cers in the know. What about lesbians ? I thought that was inside info as well |
| Wheel bearings are a pretty straight forward diagnosis. Jack the car up and grab hold of the offending wheel, and give it wiggle like you're trying to wrestle it off the hub, if you can feel any lateral play, your bearing is probably shot. If you're still not sure, pull the wheel off and wiggle the spindle/hub, if there is lateral play it's shot. Or give the wheel a spin with the tire on or off, if you can hear any sort of grinding, or if the wheel doesn't spin freely or you detect any sort of noise, your bearing is shot. |
|
Quoted:
I have an 05 forester with a similar noise. Thought it was the diff but looks good. After a few years I have decided it is the road/tire noise varying at speed. Have 153k on mine and it's a beater. Just crank up the stereo and you're gtg.. Only 90K and are planning on a new house. Want it to last a while more. Also worried the extra drag a bad WBing may cause will have detrimental effect on the AWD. |
|
Quoted:
Wheel bearings are a pretty straight forward diagnosis. Jack the car up and grab hold of the offending wheel, and give it wiggle like you're trying to wrestle it off the hub, if you can feel any lateral play, your bearing is probably shot. If you're still not sure, pull the wheel off and wiggle the spindle/hub, if there is lateral play it's shot. Or give the wheel a spin with the tire on or off, if you can hear any sort of grinding, or if the wheel doesn't spin freely or you detect any sort of noise, your bearing is shot. I can't independently spin that hub because of the AWD. |
|
Quoted: This is the inside info I am looking for from the ARF.Cers in the know. Quoted: Quoted: I thought wheel bearings were a common problem on those cars. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile This is the inside info I am looking for from the ARF.Cers in the know. |
| Sounds like wheel bearing. On the Outbacks 05-06 there was an extended warranty on the rear wheel bearings because of a bad batch. I don't know if they use the same part on the Forrester. It is worth a call to the dealer to find out if you are covered. On the first 06 Outback we had both rear bearings went out between 80-90k miles. Our VIN was a few thousand outside of the cut off number and we were not covered. Rockauto had the Timkin brand units for around $50 each. Not too hard to do if you work on cars. It does require an impact gun and 32mm (I think) socket. |
|
Quoted:
Only 90K and are planning on a new house. Want it to last a while more. Also worried the extra drag a bad WBing may cause will have detrimental effect on the AWD. Quoted:
Quoted:
I have an 05 forester with a similar noise. Thought it was the diff but looks good. After a few years I have decided it is the road/tire noise varying at speed. Have 153k on mine and it's a beater. Just crank up the stereo and you're gtg.. Only 90K and are planning on a new house. Want it to last a while more. Also worried the extra drag a bad WBing may cause will have detrimental effect on the AWD. Sounds like a bad wheel bearing, unless you have the tools get a shop to do it. You are also getting near the 100k maintenance also and looking at timing belt, water pump, tensioner "once you have it apart to do the belts you do the tensioner and pump at the same time to save labor". It would suck if the water pump or tensioner went out 20k miles after you did the belts so do them at same time. The timing belts is the one thing i hate about Subaru's. |
