Posted: 3/8/2017 9:35:36 AM EDT
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My sister, the Hippie, has a rescue that she's absolutely in love with. Problem is it's a Basset Hound with all the personality of one. HaHa. Sis got herself a huntin' dog! Oh that glorious bark. Not quite as perfect singer as the Blue Tick/Basset mix she had before but this dog is a real winner. I'll dig through my phone for pics.
Anyways, now that she's also got the diabeetus really bad she's been walking a lot and taking the dog with her. Last night she was bitching about his horrible leash manners and I broke it to her that I don't know that Bassets really give a damn about leash manners. Come to think about it he really doesn't care about much of anything but getting a cheeseburger from time to time. She's wanting a harness for him. A really good harness with a grab handle in case she needs to get a firm grip on him when he decides to go to war with whatever dog he encounters because, well, he's a bit of a pisser at times. So, who do we turn to for a good working dog harness? He's basically a Bloodhound with really stubby legs so there's got to be a fit out there. I mean he's a solid mass of muscle and ears. Who's Tier One, and who's affordable? Attached File No pics of sister available. |
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I recommend a head harness for him. Our Beagle/Lab mix is hell on a leash. She pulls hard, no manners, tries to chase everything. I tried a head harness on recommendation from our Vet and now she's manageable. Most people mistake them for a muzzle. They are not a muzzle, she could still bite if she was a biter. They are not cruel, nor harmful. They simply employ the old fighters rule : Control the head, you control the body.
Head harness |
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Look at ruffwear. They're fully adjustable. She could get the backpack one and weight him down a bit. This should help curb his energy for a while.
But to be completely logical this isn't a problem solver it's just me answering your direct question. Harnesses are designed to be comfortable for a dog to pull against. Pincher collars take the work out of holding a dog back. She won't have to tug at the leash, just shorten the leash tell the dog is at your side and let the dog pull until it doesn't want to pull. It's the lazy way of training a small dog to heel. And as long as you don't jerk on the leash it only gives as much pain as the dog is comfortable with. |
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You need a harness that will be uncomfortable on the dog when he pulls, not one that works like load bearing gear and allows him to pull like a sled dog.
My SIL has two mutts, mostly hound of some flavor. They are in regular harnesses so they don't choke themselves when they walk. The problem is by not choking themselves it allows them to pull with all of their might and drag her around like a dogsled. On my 100lb golden I use one of these http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/dog/dog-collars-leashes-and-harnesses/dog-harnesses/good2go-red-no-pull-dog-harness# The thinner cords go around his body and the harder he pulls, the more they cut in and constrict. ETA: The post above mine hits the nail square on the head. Pinch collar is the answer to your question. They look intimidating but in reality they are not unconfortable for the dog, unless they pull, and work much better than a choker chain. The other mistake I see many people make is they give the dog way too much lead. The longer the lead, the lower the angle of the leash and the more traction the dog can get. When you shorten up the leash, if the dog tries to take off, the higher angle tends to lift them up and they have significantly less traction. |
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Halti makes a good harness both for the head and the chest.
I really like the chest harness because the connection is low and in front so when he pulls it turns his chest. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W78GGC ETA: I used a prong for years on our lab/rott mix, on our GSD and on our Mal. the Halti was night and day better for training him to respond to pressure not pain. INSTANTLY a better response. |
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Honestly, pretty much ANY dog can be leash-trained. It just takes some time and effort.
The main thing I would do is get a collar that leverages high up on the neck. Anything with a harness is going to encourage pulling. Then, do redirects repeatedly until the dog learns to focus on YOU and not the walk. Short leash form. In other words, walk, stop, turn around, walk again, turn on a dime, turn again. Do not foreshadow your movements. In other words if you turn and he doesn't follow, you keep going on your merry way and that dog is going for a ride. When you do stop walking mid-track and he continues without you, pop the leash and make whatever sound it is you've decided on to voice disapproval. Could be a "No" or a growl. Just needs to be consistent. When you notice he's finally focusing on you, praise him. When you stop, and he stops to match you, praise him. Once you get this down (it can take a few days), be sure to re-inforce it before every walk by doing turns and redirects before you actually start it. Also, MOST IMPORTANT: never get the dog hyped up before the walk. The whole "DO YOU WANNA GO OUTSIDE BOY?! WANNA GO ON A WALK?!" is the worst way to do it. Calmly get the leash, put it on the dog in a calm manner and do NOT let the dog lead you out the door. If he tries to bolt past you, a pop of the leash and disapproval sound UNTIL he gets it right and waits for you to exit. This sets the entire tone of the walk. |
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Quoted:
Look at ruffwear. They're fully adjustable. She could get the backpack one and weight him down a bit. This should help curb his energy for a while. But to be completely logical this isn't a problem solver it's just me answering your direct question. Harnesses are designed to be comfortable for a dog to pull against. Pincher collars take the work out of holding a dog back. She won't have to tug at the leash, just shorten the leash tell the dog is at your side and let the dog pull until it doesn't want to pull. It's the lazy way of training a small dog to heel. And as long as you don't jerk on the leash it only gives as much pain as the dog is comfortable with. He doesn't pull too much if she keeps him on a very long lead. He just loves to put his head down and sniff. If it were a real dog I'd probably go the choker chain route. My dogs always responded to just the sound of the thing and I never had to "yank" it. The GSD loved the sound of it because he knew it was time for a walk when I rattled it for him. The choker on a two foot leash was his happy place. Mine too because that dog was a joy to be around and I miss him every day. Still have the leash hanging in my wood shop. |
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I had a female Korean Jindo that wanted to shred every small animal, plastic bag, leaf, and imagined whatever she saw outside. Eventually went to a prong collar; I did some research and it said that they were better as they didn't crush the windpipe.
Going through the same issue now with a great Dane that wants to love everyone and everything. Wife won't let me put it on her yet, but I think we're getting close, especially since the dog listens to me but not my wife. |
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Quoted:
Great, now she's shopping for boots for the darned animal. At least she doesn't make it wear pearls and a pretty scarf like the Blue Tick mix. He doesn't pull too much if she keeps him on a very long lead. He just loves to put his head down and sniff. If it were a real dog I'd probably go the choker chain route. My dogs always responded to just the sound of the thing and I never had to "yank" it. The GSD loved the sound of it because he knew it was time for a walk when I rattled it for him. The choker on a two foot leash was his happy place. Mine too because that dog was a joy to be around and I miss him every day. Still have the leash hanging in my wood shop. I may be completely off but it doesn't sound like your sister is going to do anything that even remotely looks like it could hurt the dog. I.e.: pincher, choker, head lead, solid tugs... If this is correct then just don't offer advise at all and let her complain. If it's feasible you could offer to go for a walk with her and give the dog some training that your sister can observe. She could also take chopped up ham or hotdogs that she could give him every time he looks at her. This will teach the dog that focusing on her gets rewarded. She'll just have to cut his meals back in size accordingly. I don't let my dogs front legs get in front of mine when we walk and I make them stay close enough that I can grab their collars. My 3 1/2 yr old is a pro off leash. My 3 yr old is good but needs more focused training still. A year and half of no walks has him forgetting how to walk nicely. |
I always use these for my dogs, never thought of using them before because "Those are torture for your dog" b.s I use to hear. Put my dog through obedience training and it was the first thing they put on him. Straightened him out with just a few days of training, made it a lot easier to correct him with little action on my part. 
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It took my bassett a number of years to settle down. We tried a choke collar and she tried to choke herself to death
getting where she wanted to go. So we went back to the harness. Some years went by before she went my way and listened to commands. But I am not a dog trainer. Her leash is still hanging by the door and it always will. |
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pinch collar, prong collars are a tool and they work great. but there are other just as effective tools out there.
I found the prongs to be too easy to get lazy with the training... they worked too well and the dog wasn't getting the benefit of the exercise. all it learned him was to avoid the negative of the collar. YMMV. working with both the prong and a harness on the same dog, this dog responds better to the harness. ETA: we also tried slip-leads and chokers... they were useless. I get better results with an agitation collar and a solid leashpop. |
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Harnesses are made so a dog can pull. Want dog to pull more use a harness.
The gentle leader/ head harness seems to be the most effective A choke collar seems to do the trick too I do like the idea of one that has an attachment point in the front, should spin the around but likely they just keep pulling. |
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http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-fw5s7ef/products/1390/images/7983/Prong_collar_stainless_K9pro__62159.1442288890.500.750.jpg?c=2 I always use these for my dogs, never thought of using them before because "Those are torture for your dog" b.s I use to hear. Put my dog through obedience training and it was the first thing they put on him. Straightened him out with just a few days of training, made it a lot easier to correct him with little action on my part. This. The prong collar really works. 80 lb Labrador from hunting trials bloodline here, could not hold her myself with a regular choker collar. With a prong collar, my daughter can hold her with one finger. Make sure they do not leave the dog in the collar when not on the leash and make sure the collar is properly centered and the leash is hooked to the D-ring, not the circular ring. Here is the brand she wants... Herm Sprenger prong collar |
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Quoted:
I recommend a head harness for him. Our Beagle/Lab mix is hell on a leash. She pulls hard, no manners, tries to chase everything. I tried a head harness on recommendation from our Vet and now she's manageable. Most people mistake them for a muzzle. They are not a muzzle, she could still bite if she was a biter. They are not cruel, nor harmful. They simply employ the old fighters rule : Control the head, you control the body. Head harness The dog will hate it to begin with, but once he realizes he isn't going out unless it's on all will be well. |
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some actual training will help
a big heavy harness will just contribute got to love hounds I have always wanted a bloodhound I dont care if they are loud, I dont care if they stink I just love them so one shows up at our house.... beautiful well mannered boy I take care of him while I try and find the owner about the second day of him playing with our poodles and listening to him baying I thought "holy shit I NEVER want a bloodhound" BAAARROOOOOOOO BARRRROOOOOO all damn afternoon 
found the owner and loaded his smelly ass up and drove him straight home |
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My own recommendation: 2 Hounds design: Freedom No Pull Harness
It's a harness of course, but it has two connection points: one at the back and one at the front. You can attach the included leash at the front, back, or on both at the same time. Using the front connection point (either alone or with the back simultaneously) stops the dog from pulling away, because it redirects the dog to the side. We've used it on our dog for years, to the point where she doesn't really need to use the front ring. We also gave a couple to our favorite no-kill shelter (the one we got our dog from). They reported that some of their more muscular / troublesome dogs were easier to walk with the harness. 
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We have, but don't use anymore, a Gentle Leader. I think there's a version or 2 newer but it works fine.
Attached File When he starts to pull it yanks his head sideways and breaks the focus of whatever he was on. |
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our old basset is sleeping on my feet right now.
I stunned my vet years ago by showing him that I could have her sit, come, and lay down on command. It took a lot of work. my wife asked if she was stupid; the vet said "no, she's a basset. there's a reason you don't see them performing at the circus; they don't care what you want." I could also call her back to the house at 100 yards; no one else could even get her attention. Of course, it took about 5 minutes for her to cover the ground... OP, have your sister get a chest harness. Bassets are ruled by their noses, and a head restraint might be a little harsh; they're usually sweet dogs at heart. |