Sáncte Míchael Archángele, defénde nos in proélio
Joined:
Sep 2004
Posts:
15079
EE: 100% (10)
IN, USA
Posted: 6/28/2026 11:06:58 PM EDT
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I would like to replace the windows in the kids' bedrooms. I have never done windows before, but I think it should be well within my skill level. I would appreciate some help with my plan, which is as follows. The windows are in the upper level and face the wind pretty much all fall and winter, and the rain too of course. Therefore, I'm going for optimal sealing. 1) Remove inside trim and measure opening. 2) Order windows that allow for a 1/4" gap on all sides. - Specific advice needed here. Should I order windows that I can push in from the outside or windows that I install from the inside by pushing them outward against stop boards? Or is there something else I am not considering? Obviously, being on the upper level, it would be easier from the inside, but optimal sealing against wind and moisture is my primary goal. 3) Wait for windows to arrive. 4) Remove old windows. 5) Replace framing if there is rot/water damage. 6) Install/replace flashing. - Specific advice here. If installing from the inside, should I be able to install flashing without removing the outside trim and siding? 7) Install new windows. 8) Spray window-insulating foam. 9) Reinstall trim. Any and all advice on this topic would be appreciated. @11boomboom , I think I saw you say in another thread that you're in this business. Certainly no obligation, but if you have advice, I'd love to hear it. |
"Do not overthink it, gentlemen. It's only a gunfight, not an IRS tax audit." - Louis Awerbuck
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I paid for one window to be installed. I used that as my training class and then installed the 22 remaining windows, 2 every week. I have a stucco house, so I used a masonary type window frame. Order double pane, low-e, nitrogen filled. You can order thicker glass as an option for a street side install. They are a little quieter. 
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
Sáncte Míchael Archángele, defénde nos in proélio
Joined:
Sep 2004
Posts:
15081
EE: 100% (10)
IN, USA
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Thank you, gentlemen. Originally Posted By crazyelece: What is the exterior of the house? What brand/type of window is currently installed? What brand/type of window do you want to put in? The biggest factor here will be what your current rough opening size is compared to what window size will be available to order. Exterior is vinyl. Current window is double-hung of unknown brand. I want to put it in either a double or single-hung. I have not decided on a brand yet. I do not know the current rough opening size, which is why my step 1 in the original post is to remove the trim and determine the exact opening size. Measuring from the inside trim, I have 36x53, so actual window dimensions are probably 37x57-ish. |
"Do not overthink it, gentlemen. It's only a gunfight, not an IRS tax audit." - Louis Awerbuck
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I’ve never done replacement windows my self. I’ve installed lots of new windows. S2 years ago I paid for all the the windows in my house to be replaced by window nation. The installation cost was so minimal compared to what I could by sinus windows for it wasn’t worth my time. And now I have a lifetime warranty including the caulk around the windows. Getting to my point. They didn’t touch any interior trim. The replacement windows don’t have flanges. The use a recip saw to cut the old ones out and leave the flanges. New ones slide in and get trimmed out on the outside. My house is cedar siding. None of it was removed. |
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ETA: ^^^ Interesting. Can't help with vinyl material but have replaced all doors and windows in my home. - one level - 3x6, 5x8, 5x10 - I have cedar lap, cut back 3.5", and trimmed with wood trim. I made a plywood and ledger board which screwed to the house gave me a consistent depth and straight line to cut with circular saw. - pushed in from outside - taped the flange with waterproof tape - caulked the trim to the siding and painted I think your smart removing trim from inside and getting that measurement. Probably plan on a two guy/ladder install. I just watched two Youtube videos on replacing a window with vinyl siding. Both removed the siding, did not cut. Second, do this when the siding is warm so it does not crack. Good luck. |
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Originally Posted By abnk: I do not know the current rough opening size, which is why my step 1 in the original post is to remove the trim and determine the exact opening size. Good first step. Once you know the rough opening you are dealing with, you can shop around for brand and style to fit in there. The cheaper "replacement" styles will have more "standard" sizes available. The better usually offer less "standard" sizes but may offer custom sizes. If it were me, I'd remove more than just the interior trim and take some drywall off a foot or two from around the windows to see what the framing looks like. Depending on the rough size compared to what window you want, maybe have to adjust the framing a bit to get a better window in a standard size and avoid paying extra for a custom. A trick my dad used for vinyl siding and windows, was to cut the vinyl around the window opening bigger and trim around the outside of the window with the vinyl planks. That might look funny though if you're not replacing all the windows. |
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Interested in this. My current house was built in 1975, and I think the aluminum framed windows are original. They are single hung, with double panels top and bottom. The top outer panels can be removed with tools, outside from the home exterior. The bottom inner panels have clips that allow complete removal from inside the home interior. My house is mostly brick veneer, with Hardiboard-type paneling on most of the back. I have 21 windows total, varying sizes. 10 of the 21 are double set (side by side). 6 of the 21 are on the back, surrounded by wooden trim. 14 of the 21 are on the main floor, 7 on the basement level. IIRC, I am missing the removable inner panels on 10 or 11 of the windows. so I have thermal issues at some windows in the winter and summer. I have been trying to figure out who made them, but haven't so far. The inner panels could be re-created with some framing and glass, but I haven't found a shop that will do it - they all want to sell me new windows  . So, if I can't solve the missing panel issues, then new windows may be the solution instead.
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Originally Posted By abnk: I would like to replace the windows in the kids' bedrooms. I have never done windows before, but I think it should be well within my skill level. I would appreciate some help with my plan, which is as follows. The windows are in the upper level and face the wind pretty much all fall and winter, and the rain too of course. Therefore, I'm going for optimal sealing. 1) Remove inside trim and measure opening. 2) Order windows that allow for a 1/4" gap on all sides. - Specific advice needed here. Should I order windows that I can push in from the outside or windows that I install from the inside by pushing them outward against stop boards? Or is there something else I am not considering? Obviously, being on the upper level, it would be easier from the inside, but optimal sealing against wind and moisture is my primary goal. 3) Wait for windows to arrive. 4) Remove old windows. 5) Replace framing if there is rot/water damage. 6) Install/replace flashing. - Specific advice here. If installing from the inside, should I be able to install flashing without removing the outside trim and siding? 7) Install new windows. 8) Spray window-insulating foam. 9) Reinstall trim. Any and all advice on this topic would be appreciated. @11boomboom , I think I saw you say in another thread that you're in this business. Certainly no obligation, but if you have advice, I'd love to hear it. I think you've got the basics covered. Here are my thoughts the matter. My house was built in 1975 and I've replaced all 20 of the original wood sash windows most which are double hung with a 36 x 60 picture window in the mix. I started this in 1998 and purchased 16 Certainteed Bryn Mawr II windows. They're still fine and have weathered many storms and a couple hurricanes without leaking. The house is Hardiplank siding and wood brick mold casing which I had wrapped with alum. All of these windows were installed from inside and I trimmed them with new custom moulding that was 1/4" wider than the original trim. I had to rip & plane some new stop moulding also. These Certainteed windows were custom sized with minimal gaps, some were a bit tight but still fit the openings. Most of this is due to extra vinyl "flash" at the corners which can be removed with a rasp. They came with header expanders and sill trim, I didn't need the header pieces in most openings. Now almost 3 decades later it's time for the remaining 4 windows which is part of a reno in the kitchen. Certainteed is no longer readily available in my area so we went with Viwinco after talking with the crew at ABS Supply. Simonton was another consideration. Viwinco is a smaller family run company which everyone at ABC Supply preferred over Simonton. Pretty happy with the Viwinco although their windows are built to allow for a minimum gap of 1/4" on all sides. This again required new stop moulding, not a problem as I have a planer and table saw. They have a pretty cool sill angle piece that will take a bit of cutting and trimming to get a tight fit. Unlike Certainteed I needed to use the header piece. With the exception of one picture window I never touched the exterior brick mold other than to apply caulk. The picture window was a PITA because the framing was out of square and I decided to replace the brickmold with new PVC trim anyway. As for measuring the windows you should be able to remove the interior casing and stop mould to get an accurate measurement of the frame. As for the recommendation to cut back some drywall and see what the framing looks like, well that's just dumb and unnecessary. Buy good caulk / sealant. I used DUO SIL #2001 White urethane acrylic sealant, 30MID2001 at $8.50 a tube. Nice semi shiny appearance and smoothes nicely. You'll want to apply a low expansion window / door foam around the window from inside and also foam the bottom along the sill from the exterior. |