Posted: 8/5/2012 4:22:52 AM EDT
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I'm going to replace our standard outdoor sillcocks with frost free sillcocks.
Any model recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks for any info. |
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After you pick the brand, get the kind that screws into the fitting. If you ever have a failure, you can unscrew it and replace without soldering.
Also, be sure to remove your hose when frost arrives. If not, you will split the copper section in the wall like a pig. |
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http://www.lowes.com/pd_89255-27949-17CP-18-MH_0__?productId=3534956&cm_mmc=PLA_Plumbing-_-SupplyLinesShut-OffValves-_-gps-_-Woodford%2018-in%20Freezeless%20Faucet%20&adtype=pla&cagpspn=pla I have repaired ones that are 20 years old, with the same kit for a new one. |
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Thanks for the info guys.
Just to let you know, a plumber friend of mine FINALLY answered my email and he told me to get Priers frost free sillcocks. I bought two, they should get here by the end of the week. http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/prier-c-144d-10-anti-siphon-freezeless-wall-hydrant |
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Quoted: Thanks for the info guys. Just to let you know, a plumber friend of mine FINALLY answered my email and he told me to get Priers frost free sillcocks. I bought two, they should get here by the end of the week. http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/prier-c-144d-10-anti-siphon-freezeless-wall-hydrant AWESOME products and an awesome company. Made in the USA. PRIER is in business to develop, manufacture, market, sell and service top quality products for the residential and commercial building industries in order to make money through profitability, return on investment and cash flow management. In the course of achieving our primary goal, PRIER is committed to the following objectives and considers the achievement of our primary goal at the expense of any of our stated objectives, a failure:
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Thanks for the info guys. Just to let you know, a plumber friend of mine FINALLY answered my email and he told me to get Priers frost free sillcocks. I bought two, they should get here by the end of the week. http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/prier-c-144d-10-anti-siphon-freezeless-wall-hydrant AWESOME products and an awesome company. Made in the USA. PRIER is in business to develop, manufacture, market, sell and service top quality products for the residential and commercial building industries in order to make money through profitability, return on investment and cash flow management.
In the course of achieving our primary goal, PRIER is committed to the following objectives and considers the achievement of our primary goal at the expense of any of our stated objectives, a failure:
Thanks, good to know. I'm going to use a female nipple soldered onto a separate couple inches of copper pipe and screw that little separate assembly onto the male end of the sillcock. Do I do that first, then cut that entire sillcock/nipple assembly to fit the main copper water pipe and solder as the last step in installation? I figured I had to do it that way first inorder for the sillcock to remain "square" to the outside brick wall? Thanks for any info. |
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Thanks for the info guys. Just to let you know, a plumber friend of mine FINALLY answered my email and he told me to get Priers frost free sillcocks. I bought two, they should get here by the end of the week. http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/prier-c-144d-10-anti-siphon-freezeless-wall-hydrant AWESOME products and an awesome company. Made in the USA. PRIER is in business to develop, manufacture, market, sell and service top quality products for the residential and commercial building industries in order to make money through profitability, return on investment and cash flow management.
In the course of achieving our primary goal, PRIER is committed to the following objectives and considers the achievement of our primary goal at the expense of any of our stated objectives, a failure:
Thanks, good to know. I'm going to use a female nipple soldered onto a separate couple inches of copper pipe and screw that little separate assembly onto the male end of the sillcock. Do I do that first, then cut that entire sillcock/nipple assembly to fit the main copper water pipe and solder as the last step in installation? I figured I had to do it that way first inorder for the sillcock to remain "square" to the outside brick wall? Thanks for any info. Get it cut to perfect length, then sweat the FA onto the supply pipe, then tape, dope, assemble. I never sweat against a taped and doped connection. |
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............. Get it cut to perfect length, then sweat the FA onto the supply pipe, then tape, dope, assemble. I never sweat against a taped and doped connection. How do I ensure the sillcock is square to the brick wall outside using that pecking order? ETA: I'll have a couple of inches of extra pipe to solder to the main supply line coupler. So the heat will be about two inches away from the FA. That's why I was thinking I could assemble everything first and then make the final soldering at the supply line while keeping the sillcock square to the brick wall outside? |
| installation instuctions http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/uploads/prierc144install-20991.pdf |
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Quoted:
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............. Get it cut to perfect length, then sweat the FA onto the supply pipe, then tape, dope, assemble. I never sweat against a taped and doped connection. How do I ensure the sillcock is square to the brick wall outside using that pecking order? ETA: I'll have a couple of inches of extra pipe to solder to the main supply line coupler. So the heat will be about two inches away from the FA. That's why I was thinking I could assemble everything first and then make the final soldering at the supply line while keeping the sillcock square to the brick wall outside? The new silcock will thread into your FA and you can just thread it until tight and square. The FA sweats onto the supply, then the male end of the Silcock threads into it. Am I missing something? I just do not sweat against a finished, taped & doped connection. |
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............. Get it cut to perfect length, then sweat the FA onto the supply pipe, then tape, dope, assemble. I never sweat against a taped and doped connection. How do I ensure the sillcock is square to the brick wall outside using that pecking order? ETA: I'll have a couple of inches of extra pipe to solder to the main supply line coupler. So the heat will be about two inches away from the FA. That's why I was thinking I could assemble everything first and then make the final soldering at the supply line while keeping the sillcock square to the brick wall outside? The new silcock will thread into your FA and you can just thread it until tight and square. The FA sweats onto the supply, then the male end of the Silcock threads into it. Am I missing something? I just do not sweat against a finished, taped & doped connection. Ok, I understand what you are saying. "Until tight and square". Good...........thanks for the info. BTW, you are not missing anything. Thanks alot for the help. Rick |
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installation instuctions http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/uploads/prierc144install-20991.pdf Thanks, I had seen those instructions and do understand the downward slope, etc. I was worried that the FA fitting had to be screwed real tight on the sillcock and that made its "square point" with the brick wall a static position. But Tim said just tighten "until tight and square". So I don't have to get it to the absolute "tightest" position to keep it from leaking. So, I think I got it now. I'll just do a "dry" run to get the proper length then sweat the FA, then do the tape on the male end of the sillcock. Thanks for all of your guys' help. I appreciate it. Rick |
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installation instuctions http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/uploads/prierc144install-20991.pdf Thanks, I had seen those instructions and do understand the downward slope, etc. I was worried that the FA fitting had to be screwed real tight on the sillcock and that made its "square point" with the brick wall a static position. But Tim said just tighten "until tight and square". So I don't have to get it to the absolute "tightest" position to keep it from leaking. So, I think I got it now. I'll just do a "dry" run to get the proper length then sweat the FA, then do the tape on the male end of the sillcock. Thanks for all of your guys' help. I appreciate it. Rick You will know when it's water tight by feel, then turn to square. Don't turn against 1/2" copper without a wrench on the FA. 1/2" copper will twist fairly easy. |
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installation instuctions http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/uploads/prierc144install-20991.pdf Thanks, I had seen those instructions and do understand the downward slope, etc. I was worried that the FA fitting had to be screwed real tight on the sillcock and that made its "square point" with the brick wall a static position. But Tim said just tighten "until tight and square". So I don't have to get it to the absolute "tightest" position to keep it from leaking. So, I think I got it now. I'll just do a "dry" run to get the proper length then sweat the FA, then do the tape on the male end of the sillcock. Thanks for all of your guys' help. I appreciate it. Rick You will know when it's water tight by feel, then turn to square. Don't turn against 1/2" copper without a wrench on the FA. 1/2" copper will twist fairly easy. Will do, thanks Tim!! Just out of curiousity do you use tape or dope most often? When you do decide to use tape how many layers do you put on the threads? |
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installation instuctions http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/uploads/prierc144install-20991.pdf Thanks, I had seen those instructions and do understand the downward slope, etc. I was worried that the FA fitting had to be screwed real tight on the sillcock and that made its "square point" with the brick wall a static position. But Tim said just tighten "until tight and square". So I don't have to get it to the absolute "tightest" position to keep it from leaking. So, I think I got it now. I'll just do a "dry" run to get the proper length then sweat the FA, then do the tape on the male end of the sillcock. Thanks for all of your guys' help. I appreciate it. Rick You will know when it's water tight by feel, then turn to square. Don't turn against 1/2" copper without a wrench on the FA. 1/2" copper will twist fairly easy. Will do, thanks Tim!! Just out of curiousity do you use tape or dope most often? When you do decide to use tape how many layers do you put on the threads? I use 3 wraps of Blue Monster, Lowes sells it now. Best thread tape in the world. Then I use a coat of the same brand dope. Great stuff, but I've had better dope before, though.  I tape & dope every single threaded connection, always. Never a leak. Looking at the end, tape goes clockwise.
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installation instuctions http://www.completeplumbingsource.com/uploads/prierc144install-20991.pdf Thanks, I had seen those instructions and do understand the downward slope, etc. I was worried that the FA fitting had to be screwed real tight on the sillcock and that made its "square point" with the brick wall a static position. But Tim said just tighten "until tight and square". So I don't have to get it to the absolute "tightest" position to keep it from leaking. So, I think I got it now. I'll just do a "dry" run to get the proper length then sweat the FA, then do the tape on the male end of the sillcock. Thanks for all of your guys' help. I appreciate it. Rick You will know when it's water tight by feel, then turn to square. Don't turn against 1/2" copper without a wrench on the FA. 1/2" copper will twist fairly easy. Will do, thanks Tim!! Just out of curiousity do you use tape or dope most often? When you do decide to use tape how many layers do you put on the threads? I use 3 wraps of Blue Monster, Lowes sells it now. Best thread tape in the world. Then I use a coat of the same brand dope. Great stuff, but I've had better dope before, though. I tape & dope every single threaded connection, always. Never a leak. Looking at the end, tape goes clockwise.THANK YOU!! You see, I'm ok with the measuring, cutting, cleaning and prep, and soldering. It is these "other" things where the pros really help. Those ARE the things that can screw me up. They are the "art form" things and "tid bit" things that the pros know that I do not know. Tape and dope it is. I have both on hand. Thanks again!! |