Posted: 1/14/2007 8:35:20 AM EDT
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I finally got around to finishing the two bathrooms in the basement guestrooms. My problem is that one of the tub/showers were I installed the tub fill and shower head and the diverter. When I turn on the tub fill after a couple of seconds it sends water up to the shower head with out pulling up the thing on top of the tub fill spout. Any ideas why this is happening? This is the configuration and model Price Pfister 
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The flapper is stuck closed. Could be shipping crap in it or just defective. Pull the downspout off and pull the guts out from the wall side. Then check the flapper to make sure it's actuating. If not, try to move it by hand. Like I said, it could be stuck or the actuating rod may have come off (looks like the rod that connects your toilet handle to the flush valve, and they come off the same, too, on models so equipped). This is assuming, of course, you didn't put the valve body in upside down. ETA: Poster above me has great idea. Take the downspout off. If water comes through, actuator malfunction. If no water, valve body is upside down or you have an obstruction. |
It's makred shower on top and we installed it right. The shower head puts out water while the tub is filling , not a lot but a steady stream. If I pull up on the little knob on top of the tub fill the tub fill shuts off and we get a full stream from the shower head. |
The utility room is directly on the other side of the bathrooms, we put it in the center for that reason. We used pex red & blue tubing with the manabloc manafold from vanguard. The run to the tub is only about ten feet. we turned down the presure and it almost stoped but still dripped while the tube was filling. |
Yeah, that sounds like too much pressure to me. Did you use a 1/2" or 3/4" nipple for the downspout? Either that, or you do have an obstruction to the downspout. Is it putting out a lot of pressure, like a garden hose with a sprayer on it versus a hose with no nozzle? In other words, more pressure than the other bathroom that works fine? If there is no restriction to the downspout and the actuator for the shower is not stuck, try decreasing the pressure. Shut the water off, pull the handle and escussion trim, and on the body itself where the cold and hot lines come in are screws facing the surround. Turning these to the right will decrease flow. Turn them evenly so you don't mess up your scald guard setting preference. Do you know what your home water pressure is by chance? Did you replace 3/4" tubing with 1/2" when you did this remodel? If you downsized the size of the pipe, you increased the velocity. |
| If you run through the above and dont find the problem check the valve body for small bits of solder from when he sweated the connections. You really should pull the valve body when you sweat close to these with the plastic internals. but alot of guys dont. other than that the single handle Pfisters usually have one large plastic bodied cartridge swap it for a new one and see. |
We built brand new and used 1/2 on everything except the front and back garden houses, we used 3/4 on them as per vanguards recommendation. We went over the instructions and it says to place the shower head 48 inches above the diverter, that wasn't possible, it looked retarded that low. We have about 36 inch's between the shower head and the diverter. |
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If you have the exact spout you show in the picture in your first post, the ring on the end of the spout should unscrew. Unscrew it and run the water. Probably there's some junk (piece of plastic bag or something) above the screen. It wont be a fine screen, just a grid to make the water look pretty when it comes out. The high pressure / wrong line size ideas are red herrings. Like electricity, water takes the route with the least resistance. The showerhead is flow restricted where the spout is not (unless the spout is plugged or diverter is on). your problem has to do with the spout. |