Posted: 4/30/2026 8:42:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mvintx][Edited]
Was printing some Yolo tiles with PA6CF, walked away from the printer for about 10 minutes. Came back and found all of the tiles had broken loose from the textured plate (had just cleaned it), some were stuck to the nozzle, globs of hardened filament surrounded the hotend and oozed into the area below the cooling fan. Huge effing mess. Pic was taken after I cut away the glob next to the nozzle. Was able to heat up the hotend and get enough of the filament off the nozzle so I could remove it. The hotend heating assembly was glued to the toolhead carriage and took quite an effort to break it loose. I'll have to replace the carriage, hotend assembly, fan and the toolhead PC board. Screwed that up trying to disconnect the toolhead fan cable. Looks like about $150 in parts. 
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Originally Posted By Blob: These things happen. Did the tiles break loose because they warped? You know, I'm not sure if they warped or not. It had laid down the first two layers and I went outside to kill some time, thinking all was well. Came inside about ten minutes later and there was the mess. Tiles were scattered everywhere and several were stuck to the nozzle. I didn't use any glue on the build plate. There's a chance I did not clip the nozzle in place when I switched from the .4 to the .6, I can't remember. I don't think the sock would have fit if I hadn't and I put the sock on. I just looked in the trash where I put the tiles...yes, they were all warped. I'm thinking one or more tiles got stuck to the nozzle and the extruder kept feeding filament. There was an error message on the screen but I don't remember what it said. It's not a total disaster, parts are on the way except for the toolhead carriage. It's out of stock till 5 May. |
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I killed my old MK3 hotend with a PA6CF blob of death. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Need some heat in the chamber or it will happen again. Glue stick can also help a little. I had the heat bed at 100° but no glue. Had just done two Yolos with PETG and glue and they turned out fine. Washed the plate but didn't apply any glue. I'll know better next time. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: That sounds like a good idea, thanks. Yes my printers warm up and heat soak for a while before starting the bed probe routine. I believe the P2S is capable of taking an M191 command which tells the printer to wait until the chamber reaches a set temperature before starting the print. Assuming the printer has a chamber temp sensor. IDK if it does or not. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Yes my printers warm up and heat soak for a while before starting the bed probe routine. I believe the P2S is capable of taking an M191 command which tells the printer to wait until the chamber reaches a set temperature before starting the print. Assuming the printer has a chamber temp sensor. IDK if it does or not. The p2s does have a chamber temp sensor. With a bed temp of 100° and the fans off, the chamber is typically around 55°. Where would I insert the M191 command? Insert a custom G code at the beginning of the print? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: The p2s does have a chamber temp sensor. With a bed temp of 100° and the fans off, the chamber is typically around 55°. Where would I insert the M191 command? Insert a custom G code at the beginning of the print? Yes in the machine start gcode section. Mine contains this line: M191 S{chamber_temperature[initial_tool]} ; wait for minimal chamber temp Again, not sure if this will even work on bambu. |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Was printing some Yolo tiles with PA6CF, walked away from the printer for about 10 minutes. Came back and found all of the tiles had broken loose from the textured plate (had just cleaned it), some were stuck to the nozzle, globs of hardened filament surrounded the hotend and oozed into the area below the cooling fan. Huge effing mess. Pic was taken after I cut away the glob next to the nozzle. Was able to heat up the hotend and get enough of the filament off the nozzle so I could remove it. The hotend heating assembly was glued to the toolhead carriage and took quite an effort to break it loose. I'll have to replace the carriage, hotend assembly, fan and the toolhead PC board. Screwed that up trying to disconnect the toolhead fan cable. Looks like about $150 in parts. https://i.imgur.com/JRYborD.jpeg Will nozzle size affect this? |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Yes in the machine start gcode section. Mine contains this line: M191 S{chamber_temperature[initial_tool]} ; wait for minimal chamber temp Again, not sure if this will even work on bambu. It does. Bambu is fully compatible with all the gcode commands any other printer can use, but admittedly some of their conventions are wonky at times. Fan numbers and syntax is sometimes a bit different, but in general the same functionality is there. For instance on the H2D and X2D you must prefix the nozzle number to some commands, but not others. Havent found the rhyme or reason yet but generally dont have to mess with custom gcode these days. Good idea to automate the heating of the chamber. In fact you could even go higher on the bed as the P2S maxes out at 110 and then once it hits temp kick it back down to 100, for example. Id be aiming for 60C minimum. 65 is better but if the parts arent huge 60 should work. Ive had larger, sharp edge models warp at 60. Ive never had anything warp at 65, regardless of size. 65 also gives slightly better layer adhesion so i generally just keep it at 65. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: It does. Bambu is fully compatible with all the gcode commands any other printer can use, but admittedly some of their conventions are wonky at times. Fan numbers and syntax is sometimes a bit different, but in general the same functionality is there. For instance on the H2D and X2D you must prefix the nozzle number to some commands, but not others. Havent found the rhyme or reason yet but generally dont have to mess with custom gcode these days. Good idea to automate the heating of the chamber. In fact you could even go higher on the bed as the P2S maxes out at 110 and then once it hits temp kick it back down to 100, for example. Id be aiming for 60C minimum. 65 is better but if the parts arent huge 60 should work. Ive had larger, sharp edge models warp at 60. Ive never had anything warp at 65, regardless of size. 65 also gives slightly better layer adhesion so i generally just keep it at 65. Fiberon claims no chamber heat is necessary with their PA6CF. You've had no problems with it at 60-65°? I learned the hard way that it does not like 100° for a bed temp. My last print was fine with the bed and chamber at 50°. Sunlu is a different story...it likes a bed temp of 100°. I've only printed FTN5s up to this point. A few Glock frames are on the short list...not that I need one but I'd like to experiment. My H2D threw another left eddy sensor failure message on my last print (non-NFA). I've got one on hand to replace it with. |
| I've had my printer up to 68C and still experienced warping with PA6-CF on the built in supports for the ftn5 PCC. They are pretty much worst case scenario though - long straight lines nearly the entire length of the print bed. I deleted them in CAD and used organic supports and it turned out perfectly. |