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Posted: 3/29/2009 12:20:58 PM EST
The BOV, wife's 2001 Suburban broke a cable. I have unsuccessfully attempted fixing these in the past, so I check online for replacements.

The manual one is $85, and the power window/w motor is $115.

are they the same thing without the motor, and can I install the motor I have on the new manual regulator or are they different enough that I should just spend the extra $30
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 12:27:31 PM EST
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 12:29:37 PM EST
They are different. Sorry.

I did a power conversion on a camaro a few years back and I couldn't use anything from the manual stuff.
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 12:31:16 PM EST
Those Chevy window regulators are pathetic. I had my door apart on my ford because the motor ate it and that regulator is simple and rock solid. If I owned a Chevy and my reg went Id want to kick the designer square in the nuts.
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 12:39:39 PM EST
I was afraid of that.

I looked at the online pix and wondered if I couldn't just drill and tap the mech. They looked very similar.

Oh well, thanks.
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 12:44:54 PM EST
Originally Posted By DernHumpus:
Those Chevy window regulators are pathetic. I had my door apart on my ford because the motor ate it and that regulator is simple and rock solid. If I owned a Chevy and my reg went Id want to kick the designer square in the nuts.


Shit. Try a Land Rover there Skippy. They are $500.
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 2:30:35 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/29/2009 2:35:13 PM EST by hotrod_sxty8]
so your saying you got a manual regulator for a power window? they are different and if you just replace the cable you will be doing it again soon. one other thing if your truck has the power windows the spool that the cable rides on is worn out and will break the cable..again..
check this write up I did over on www.fullsizechevy.com
it's on replacing the powerwindow assembly on a 2001 burb. even has step by step pics
also if you think about it your getting the motor cheaper than if you got the regulator then had to get the motor later
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/tech-articles-two/351094-99-02-nbs-power-window-regulator-motor-replacement.html
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 4:36:46 PM EST

Originally Posted By hotrod_sxty8:
so your saying you got a manual regulator for a power window? they are different and if you just replace the cable you will be doing it again soon. one other thing if your truck has the power windows the spool that the cable rides on is worn out and will break the cable..again..
check this write up I did over on www.fullsizechevy.com
it's on replacing the powerwindow assembly on a 2001 burb. even has step by step pics
also if you think about it your getting the motor cheaper than if you got the regulator then had to get the motor later
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/tech-articles-two/351094-99-02-nbs-power-window-regulator-motor-replacement.html


Yeah, that was what I was asking..."is the manual the same as the power, except one has a crank and the other a motor". I was thinking that if they were the same exact thing, I could replace the manual crank with the power unit.

I guess not.

I am going to bust it open tomorrow and see where the problem is. I want to make sure that a cable didn't just come off, as it just bound up going up, it didn't entirely break yet.

The last time I tried to repair instead of replace, I spent several dozen hours in the pursuit of failure.
Link Posted: 3/30/2009 3:50:29 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/30/2009 3:59:23 AM EST by hotrod_sxty8]
when the wifes started binding up I tried to "fix" it by trimming the broken strands of cable that lasted for about 1 day, after that I tried to replace the cable with a bicycle brake cable that didn't last either...lol
best bet is to just replace the whole thing. what I found out is when the cable winds up it puts a lot of tension and an extreme angle on the cable, which in turn puts the cable in a strain, and causes it to fray.
the frayed cable starts hanging up and puts more strain on the cable causing it to break. also the spool where the cable winds up wears out so if you just replace the cable the messed up spool will cause problems in the near future
I also found out that the autozone part numbers are wrong! when I pulled the part numbers up on the website the numbers were correct but the store had them wrong.I had to tell the counterguy over the phone that I wanted part number xxxxx not the number he had listed(the numbers are on the fsc webpage).
also I believe that the manual window regulator and power regulator are indeed different.
edit: the window regulator with motor is @99 bucks at autozone and the motor by itself is @35-45 bucks depending if you get a reman one or a new one.
Link Posted: 3/30/2009 3:53:28 AM EST
thanks.

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