Posted: 11/17/2014 3:07:49 PM EDT
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It seems we have had debates about every other lubricant.
What should I use to lube my chassis? U-Joints? What can Arfcom teach me about the wonderful world of grease? NLGI 1? 2? Moly? Lithium? What wont drip out of my grease gun? |
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This. Do not mix greases. Quoted:
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Not all greases are compatible with each other, so replace with the same.......or consider a complete cleaning before making a change. This. Do not mix greases. What if I use Mystic at home and the dealer pumps in some other stuff on their 187 point inspection? |
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Deere Polyurea is about the best shit on the market for GP use.
U-Joints, chasis, and everything under a car, light trailer, or light truck. It wont run out of a grease gun that is left in a truck bed, and is waterproof to the point of being a PITA to wash out of clothing, and off equipment. Beats the hell out of just about everything else for light pressure applications, and will suffice for some higher pressure stuff like loader pins. Only problem..compatibility, and Mother Deere wallet rape. It doesn't play nice with the clay based cheap shit, and sets up like crusty tooth paste. Not the hot ticket for wheel bearings lubed with bearing buddys. Generic ass Mystic NGLI 2 red works just fine for most, as long as the U-joints get a refresher shot every couple of months, and things don't get too hot or submerged. Not the hot setup for PTO driven stuff, but for the pick up truck...hell yeah. The biggest thing is to actually have grease in the bearings, and some compatible shit in the grease gun...and use it frequently. |
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What if I use Mystic at home and the dealer pumps in some other stuff on their 187 point inspection? Quoted:
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Not all greases are compatible with each other, so replace with the same.......or consider a complete cleaning before making a change. This. Do not mix greases. What if I use Mystic at home and the dealer pumps in some other stuff on their 187 point inspection? No dealer is going to use Polyurea based stuff. Too damn expensive, and known to cause compatibility issues with the clay based cheap shit that 90% of people use. |
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Quoted:
No dealer is going to use Polyurea based stuff. Too damn expensive, and known to cause compatibility issues with the clay based cheap shit that 90% of people use. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Not all greases are compatible with each other, so replace with the same.......or consider a complete cleaning before making a change. This. Do not mix greases. What if I use Mystic at home and the dealer pumps in some other stuff on their 187 point inspection? No dealer is going to use Polyurea based stuff. Too damn expensive, and known to cause compatibility issues with the clay based cheap shit that 90% of people use. good to know |
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Quoted:
No dealer is going to use Polyurea based stuff. Too damn expensive, and known to cause compatibility issues with the clay based cheap shit that 90% of people use. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Not all greases are compatible with each other, so replace with the same.......or consider a complete cleaning before making a change. This. Do not mix greases. What if I use Mystic at home and the dealer pumps in some other stuff on their 187 point inspection? No dealer is going to use Polyurea based stuff. Too damn expensive, and known to cause compatibility issues with the clay based cheap shit that 90% of people use. What greases are clay based? Soap based, of course, that's pretty much the definition of a grease. But clay? |
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What greases are clay based? Soap based, of course, that's pretty much the definition of a grease. But clay? Quoted:
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Not all greases are compatible with each other, so replace with the same.......or consider a complete cleaning before making a change. This. Do not mix greases. What if I use Mystic at home and the dealer pumps in some other stuff on their 187 point inspection? No dealer is going to use Polyurea based stuff. Too damn expensive, and known to cause compatibility issues with the clay based cheap shit that 90% of people use. What greases are clay based? Soap based, of course, that's pretty much the definition of a grease. But clay? Here's a primer. I got in the habit of just calling them Clay based a long time ago, when I started to have to dodge anything but synthetic and Polyurea, and the old clay based shit was the most troublesome. 
Compatibility |
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Fail. OP asked for grease that would not drip out of his grease gun. I go with manufacturer's spec, and the Lucas stuff seems to work rather well. |
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Sta-Lube EP Moly-Graph user here. Lithium-12 NLGI-2. Use it on u-joints, slip joints (driveshafts...), chassis stuff, suspension fittings, spring shackles, hyd cyl pivot pins... pretty much anything with a zerk (and some without) across a little personal fleet that includes 2 pickups, an M101A2 trailer, a 1974 fire truck, bunch of random occasional forklifts, a 1950's Kenworth... oh, and a Miata... plus some other crap...
Comes in big tubs, little tubs, big-gun-tubes, little-gun-tubes, and all the local Napa stores carry tons of it... often on sale, too. Works fine, no issues, shit I grease with it doesn't give me any grief. Brake parts get that high-temp disc brake stuff, comes in little squeeze tubes. Wheel bearings get either high-temp bearing grease (if that bearing has a disk brake) or regular Napa wheel bearing grease (everything else). Also use the regular Napa stuff as assembly lube for bearings and shafts in axles, gearboxes, etc. that later get filled with stink (gear oil)... M1 Garands get Mobil 1 synthetic, the red shit. Mostly because I wound up with a tub of it, and that tub wound up in the gun room. A dab behind the ears now-and-then... 
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