Foxtrot08 makes an oil thread! (Page 51 of 160)
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Originally Posted By nightstalker: What do we think of COSTCO building stand-alone 40 pump gas stations. https://www.thedrive.com/news/costco-is-starting-a-standalone-gas-station-empire-with-a-40-pump-discount-fuel-oasis |
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My Tacoma takes 5w-30 and RAV and CX5 take 0w-20. 12 qts, $35 $2.92/qt shipped Attached File |
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Originally Posted By outdoorgb: My Tacoma takes 5w-30 and RAV and CX5 take 0w-20. 12 qts, $35 $2.92/qt shipped https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/74443/IMG_5918_png-3745559.JPG |
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Originally Posted By outdoorgb: My Tacoma takes 5w-30 and RAV and CX5 take 0w-20. 12 qts, $35 $2.92/qt shipped https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/74443/IMG_5918_png-3745559.JPG As I get older, I am starting to worry less about chasing magic super lubes and just using something that meets spec and reduces cost of ownership. Example…I ran super premium oil filters forever. I got free oil changes from ford for 100k miles due to their tech making stupid mistakes on my car that caused two wheels to fall off while driving. That truck went 100k on motorcraft filters with mediocre specs and motorcraft semi synthetic oil…changed every 10k. It’s a turbo…and uses no oil between changes. I sent in a sample for analysis and it came back fine. That said, I’m running restore and protect now…but I bought a bunch of motorcraft FL500s filters cheap at rock auto. |
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Originally Posted By Ratchet27: Kinda off topic but local WM's have virtually zero oil filters. I guess Fram declared bankruptcy and the other stock can't keep up. Was the same thing her in mn. I’ve never seen filter shelves so empty. I get fram being empty now but it was most brands. I picked up the last two oem filters for my wife’s traverse. I got 15 fram filters 75% off at advance auto last Friday along with 6 air filters. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: What is the stuff in the bucket? You're at about 9% of that in the total. Even if it's all alcohol, that's very light. Most WWF around here has 35-40% methanol in it for the antifreeze property, but that amount of MeOH also prevents bug growth. If your bucket is 99% water with a pinch of dye and detergent, then that's your problem.  Originally Posted By D_Man: What is the stuff in the bucket? You're at about 9% of that in the total. Even if it's all alcohol, that's very light. Most WWF around here has 35-40% methanol in it for the antifreeze property, but that amount of MeOH also prevents bug growth. If your bucket is 99% water with a pinch of dye and detergent, then that's your problem. It's from MOMAR, comes on a pallet in a freight truck with hazmat stickers. It's made to mixed 5 gallons to 50 gallons of water. I can check the sticker, but it's real chemicals made to be mixed as washer fluid. I can't find it on their website, maybe halfing the mixture is all we need, I'm sure they'll love that It smells strong, but thicker/soapier than the Mercedes WinterFit that's basically a bottle of rubbing alcohol dyed blue. Originally Posted By Some_Beach: With very few exceptions, almost nothing will grow suspended with methanol over three or four percent. In a delivery system though, there could be places where biofilms could form. Algae need light, but it could be a mold or bacteria (or both). In areas of a system that don't have constant exposure to high methanol concentrations or in materials that allow methanol to evaporate, biofilms can form. Dark, warm, and moist are perfect places for biofilms, but still would need to be low / absent of methanol. There have been cases of Legionnaires (bacteria) disease tied to truck washer fluid tanks when methanol was low or not present. eta: as D_Man said above, if it is just blue dye, a tiny amount of detergent and water, biofilms absolutely will grow, and if the tank is white / lets any light in, there could definitely be algae growth. It's a normal white plastic 55 gallon drum, not sealed since the hose drops in the top. The room is lit, but on motion sensors. Always warm, there's a big twin head compressor running 6' away. Beyond that, there's piping and a hose reel to the nozzle, 100-200' or so. The first squeeze is always a bit discolored, more clear/brown than blue. No light inside the pipes and I can't imagine there's any evaporation, but it must be separating. |
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Originally Posted By maslin02: It's from MOMAR, comes on a pallet in a freight truck with hazmat stickers. It's made to mixed 5 gallons to 50 gallons of water. I can check the sticker, but it's real chemicals made to be mixed as washer fluid. I can't find it on their website, maybe halfing the mixture is all we need, I'm sure they'll love that Then after you dilute it you'd be under 4% methanol and that would be weak enough to be an issue. They do seem to offer a stronger version with twice the MeOH. |
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Originally Posted By ALostKey: I went out to get some oil on hand. It took three Walmarts to find 25 qts of M1 0w-20 extended performance. I’m in NH fwiw. There's a whole lot of Toyotas (and probably other brands) that use 0w20, it's going fast. As of a week ago, certain types of 0w20 were sold out on Wamart's web site. Individual stores were hit and miss on those types. Other types (generally the "less good" types) were still there. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: There's a whole lot of Toyotas (and probably other brands) that use 0w20, it's going fast. As of a week ago, certain types of 0w20 were sold out on Wamart's web site. Individual stores were hit and miss on those types. Other types (generally the "less good" types) were still there. Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By ALostKey: I went out to get some oil on hand. It took three Walmarts to find 25 qts of M1 0w-20 extended performance. I’m in NH fwiw. There's a whole lot of Toyotas (and probably other brands) that use 0w20, it's going fast. As of a week ago, certain types of 0w20 were sold out on Wamart's web site. Individual stores were hit and miss on those types. Other types (generally the "less good" types) were still there. A lot of Hondas use 0w20, too. It’s a very commonly spec’ed oil. |
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Originally Posted By bluemax_1: A lot of Hondas use 0w20, too. It’s a very commonly spec’ed oil. Originally Posted By bluemax_1: Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: Originally Posted By ALostKey: I went out to get some oil on hand. It took three Walmarts to find 25 qts of M1 0w-20 extended performance. I’m in NH fwiw. There's a whole lot of Toyotas (and probably other brands) that use 0w20, it's going fast. As of a week ago, certain types of 0w20 were sold out on Wamart's web site. Individual stores were hit and miss on those types. Other types (generally the "less good" types) were still there. A lot of Hondas use 0w20, too. It’s a very commonly spec’ed oil. GM, Ford, Subaru, Mazda, certain euro cars, etc. all use 0w20. Right now it’s about 60% of the market share in the U.S. in terms of motor oils. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: The DIY market is already a minority in the over all lubricants industry. And a shrinking side of it. The DIFM market is growing dramatically, as people just take it to dealerships via free oil changes, or go to a mechanic due to the complexity. So panic buying on the DIY side is going to be a minor blip. Where the problem lies, I’ve had customers already try to order years to multiple years of oil from me. In one particular case, it was several thousands of gallons. That is going to be up to the supplier to determine if they can actually do that or not. I cut it short to about 3 months worth. When companies start adding up like that, and then distribution channels start running dry, is where things start going haywire. Since we are already on allocation. I put my customers on allocation as well. Annual volume, divided by 12, is the maximum I’m willing to sell a company at one time. Outside of heavy industrial customers. If they have an incident or such, I’ll do my best to help out. A steel mill changing 30,000 gallons of gear oil out during maintenance is an exception to the rule. A company ordering 12 totes of engine oil… and they’ve never ordered totes before… and have a 300 gallon bulk tank… isn’t normal. What do you think the impact will be to car dealerships? |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I'm running 5w30 in a WRX. Is yours a turbo model? It's my dogsitters'. I believe it's a NA 6. |
Exposure to views that distress and offend is a form of education unto itself. -U.S. Court of Appeals for the Ninth Circuit in Reges v Cauce
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Originally Posted By D_Man: If it's this one: https://momar.com/item/5847/wws_42 Then after you dilute it you'd be under 4% methanol and that would be weak enough to be an issue. They do seem to offer a stronger version with twice the MeOH. It is WWS 42. The label has a chart from 1:64 to “neat”, summer vs -40* F. I’ll talk them into mixing it a bit stronger, doesn’t sound like it would need to be a lot. I think 30 gallons total would be 7%? I’ll have to check the cost on those buckets, I can’t imagine it’s more expensive than we’re charging for the single servings from MB. |
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Originally Posted By maslin02: It is WWS 42. The label has a chart from 1:64 to "neat", summer vs -40* F. I'll talk them into mixing it a bit stronger, doesn't sound like it would need to be a lot. You could also run it undiluted through the lines and system to kill everything a couple of times, then dilute it for distribution, assuming it doesn't pick up a ton of contamination. The methanol component just needs to be high enough to kill microbes in the final dilution. |
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Originally Posted By maslin02: Oil adjacent. How you seen issues with algae in bulk washer fluid delivery systems? Any ideas on mitigation? We get the 5 gallon buckets from our chemical guy and mix them with 50 gallons of water in a white plastic barrel. The water is from our bulk hoses on the ceiling, comes from a "non potable" outlet on the shop wall. The washer barrel is in the oil room where it's dark, but hot. Pumps through an air pump up to the ceiling and out to the shop. The shop is heated well, but no fans. The air up high is very warm, where all the pipes and reels live. We've had issues with algae in the cars so we've stopped using the system entirely. Our chemical guy says algae can't grow in the fluid, but that obviously isn't true. We have to use tap water to keep the MB sensors happy. Not an oil guy but done a lot with liquids in pharma and delt with a lot of micro issues. Why is your water non potable is it starting as city water then just not in potable drops or are you starting with well water ? You keep the water hoses on a real? Water sitting in reel is nice place to have microbial bugs grow. Do you ever clean the drum or just keep using it. Do you have access to steam where you are ? Bleach and steam kill a lot of bad things. How hot is the room the barrel is in? 80 or 90 degrees? Is there filter on air line ? Assume no filters on water from your original source. Heat and no filter air is recipe for growing things you don’t want. Once you get “bugs” you need to get them out of the system. Did anything change in your systems prior to having issues. I know this was asked but didn’t see answer how much methanol is in concentrate? Do you get coa with concentrate? How do you know the methanol they say is in there is ? Wouldn’t be first time some 3rd shift guy made mistake and know one caught it. Or can we get away with less and see if anyone notices. General rule you want to keep bugs from getting in system vs relying on preservative aka methanol to kill bugs. |
NRA Life Member
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Originally Posted By paul1911: Not an oil guy but done a lot with liquids in pharma and delt with a lot of micro issues. Why is your water non potable is it starting as city water then just not in potable drops or are you starting with well water ? You keep the water hoses on a real? Water sitting in reel is nice place to have microbial bugs grow. Do you ever clean the drum or just keep using it. Do you have access to steam where you are ? Bleach and steam kill a lot of bad things. How hot is the room the barrel is in? 80 or 90 degrees? Is there filter on air line ? Assume no filters on water from your original source. Heat and no filter air is recipe for growing things you don’t want. Once you get “bugs” you need to get them out of the system. Did anything change in your systems prior to having issues. I know this was asked but didn’t see answer how much methanol is in concentrate? Do you get coa with concentrate? How do you know the methanol they say is in there is ? Wouldn’t be first time some 3rd shift guy made mistake and know one caught it. Or can we get away with less and see if anyone notices. General rule you want to keep bugs from getting in system vs relying on preservative aka methanol to kill bugs. City water “potable” through the wall to a backflow prevention valve, then “non potable”. Feeds the radiant floor boiler and hose reels. Reels are on the ceiling, it’s actually a really nice setup. The drum has never been cleaned, it’s been in use since 2018. We were told “nothing can grow in it” but here we are. The oil room is probably 10-20 degrees over ambient, hot hot in the summer. No steam or hot water, plenty of brake clean The air is dried and filtered, water is not. The concentrate should be 42% Methanol, 2.1 gallons for a 5 gallon bucket. We’ve been mixing that to 50 gallons of water, so 3% or so? Looks like 5 gallons of concentrate to 25 gallons of water would be 7%. That’s an interesting thought to run the pump and reels at 100% and mix in the shop, adds a step but would be easier than the little tubes we get now. We have gas oil, diesel oil, water, washer fluid, 2 air lines and 2 power cords between each bay.    
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Originally Posted By ALostKey: Any word on if this situation has developed positively or negatively? The general consensus several pages ago was ‘it’s going to get worse before it gets worse’. That was before the cease fire talks broke down over the weekend. So, yeah, I’d say things aren’t looking any better at this point. I may snag a few more gallons of diesel oil while it’s still on sale at NAPA. |
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Originally Posted By Igloo87: You can always use Redline 10w40 Edit...you may want this oil for your ATV Redline 10w40 Motorcycle oil |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Does it share the oil with the transmission / clutch? Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: I've got one. Got a 2023 CFMoto CForce 600 ATV. Manual says 10w/5w/15w40 oil. Liquid cooled, fuel injected. Full synthetic 10w40 is tough to find (usually only see conv or syn blend), any issue using 15w40 full syn diesel oil? Does it share the oil with the transmission / clutch? |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Originally Posted By outdoorgb: My Tacoma takes 5w-30 and RAV and CX5 take 0w-20. 12 qts, $35 $2.92/qt shipped https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/74443/IMG_5918_png-3745559.JPG They both get 5w30.
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Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Originally Posted By Dopple: Nope, CVT. Originally Posted By Dopple: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: I've got one. Got a 2023 CFMoto CForce 600 ATV. Manual says 10w/5w/15w40 oil. Liquid cooled, fuel injected. Full synthetic 10w40 is tough to find (usually only see conv or syn blend), any issue using 15w40 full syn diesel oil? Does it share the oil with the transmission / clutch? It would be fine then. Basically just looking for a 40w. Polaris is like that in their older bikes. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
|
Originally Posted By optoisolator: What do you think the impact will be to car dealerships? Originally Posted By optoisolator: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: The DIY market is already a minority in the over all lubricants industry. And a shrinking side of it. The DIFM market is growing dramatically, as people just take it to dealerships via free oil changes, or go to a mechanic due to the complexity. So panic buying on the DIY side is going to be a minor blip. Where the problem lies, I’ve had customers already try to order years to multiple years of oil from me. In one particular case, it was several thousands of gallons. That is going to be up to the supplier to determine if they can actually do that or not. I cut it short to about 3 months worth. When companies start adding up like that, and then distribution channels start running dry, is where things start going haywire. Since we are already on allocation. I put my customers on allocation as well. Annual volume, divided by 12, is the maximum I’m willing to sell a company at one time. Outside of heavy industrial customers. If they have an incident or such, I’ll do my best to help out. A steel mill changing 30,000 gallons of gear oil out during maintenance is an exception to the rule. A company ordering 12 totes of engine oil… and they’ve never ordered totes before… and have a 300 gallon bulk tank… isn’t normal. What do you think the impact will be to car dealerships? I think it depends on their supplier. So like Shell based ones - Mopar and such - are going to have a bad time. I’ve heard some rumors of allocation happening. But we will see. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
|
Originally Posted By ALostKey: Any word on if this situation has developed positively or negatively? Prices keep going up. The second round of price increases hit starting today. And a third round is now being announced as product gets squeezed. I’m currently on the other side of the world. So I’m sure I’ll get an update here now that I’m awake. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
|
Originally Posted By maslin02: City water “potable” through the wall to a backflow prevention valve, then “non potable”. Feeds the radiant floor boiler and hose reels. Reels are on the ceiling, it’s actually a really nice setup. The drum has never been cleaned, it’s been in use since 2018. We were told “nothing can grow in it” but here we are. The oil room is probably 10-20 degrees over ambient, hot hot in the summer. No steam or hot water, plenty of brake clean The air is dried and filtered, water is not. The concentrate should be 42% Methanol, 2.1 gallons for a 5 gallon bucket. We’ve been mixing that to 50 gallons of water, so 3% or so? Looks like 5 gallons of concentrate to 25 gallons of water would be 7%. That’s an interesting thought to run the pump and reels at 100% and mix in the shop, adds a step but would be easier than the little tubes we get now. We have gas oil, diesel oil, water, washer fluid, 2 air lines and 2 power cords between each bay. https://i.imgur.com/5X2Kjif_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand https://i.imgur.com/0rQjzEl_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand https://i.imgur.com/Vs6vnPy_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand https://i.imgur.com/zc8811b_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand Oh boy! That drum gives me a lot of concern. Best recommendation is go get a new white one. If that's not possible I would fill with bleach water for a bit. The water that you use to mix, I would let that run for a min or two before you mix. Assume your city water has chlorine in it. If it sits the effectiveness of that goes down. But think the drum is bigger issue. I might also purge the lines after the drum with some bleach water as well do all the drop points. Two issues how do you get rid of what you have now and how do you keep it from happening again. Ok, Methanol is not as good at killing microbes as Isopropyl alcohol or ethanol, your concentration is low as well. Yea 42% you should be good, but when you dilute it down..... I also would be concerned that the concentrate that you may have been getting was not a right level of methanol when you got it. Do you use a higher concentration of solution in the winter or add additional methanol? Assume you would need that to keep it from freezing. If you do, do your problems stop in winter? When I looked at SDS for winter formulas that you can buy in store already mixed they are running a ~35% Methanol in them. |
NRA Life Member
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: It would be fine then. Basically just looking for a 40w. Polaris is like that in their older bikes. Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: I've got one. Got a 2023 CFMoto CForce 600 ATV. Manual says 10w/5w/15w40 oil. Liquid cooled, fuel injected. Full synthetic 10w40 is tough to find (usually only see conv or syn blend), any issue using 15w40 full syn diesel oil? Does it share the oil with the transmission / clutch? It would be fine then. Basically just looking for a 40w. Polaris is like that in their older bikes. |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Originally Posted By Dopple: QSL. I know enough to stick with a 40w, the 15w40 diesel oil is plentiful and less expensive than "powersports" oil. I generally don't run the thing in the winter time, so the cold weight is not much of a concern for me. Originally Posted By Dopple: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: I've got one. Got a 2023 CFMoto CForce 600 ATV. Manual says 10w/5w/15w40 oil. Liquid cooled, fuel injected. Full synthetic 10w40 is tough to find (usually only see conv or syn blend), any issue using 15w40 full syn diesel oil? Does it share the oil with the transmission / clutch? It would be fine then. Basically just looking for a 40w. Polaris is like that in their older bikes. There’s no real “standard” for a power sports oil. Unlike NMMA standards with marine outboard oils. So powersports can be anything from just marketing… to having a JASO Ma/Ma2 certification. To anything in between. They could be custom blended with a demulsifier. Or really anything. Or it could just be relabeled of another brand and up charged. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
|
Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: There's no real "standard" for a power sports oil. Unlike NMMA standards with marine outboard oils. So powersports can be anything from just marketing to having a JASO Ma/Ma2 certification. To anything in between. They could be custom blended with a demulsifier. Or really anything. Or it could just be relabeled of another brand and up charged. Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: I've got one. Got a 2023 CFMoto CForce 600 ATV. Manual says 10w/5w/15w40 oil. Liquid cooled, fuel injected. Full synthetic 10w40 is tough to find (usually only see conv or syn blend), any issue using 15w40 full syn diesel oil? Does it share the oil with the transmission / clutch? It would be fine then. Basically just looking for a 40w. Polaris is like that in their older bikes. There's no real "standard" for a power sports oil. Unlike NMMA standards with marine outboard oils. So powersports can be anything from just marketing to having a JASO Ma/Ma2 certification. To anything in between. They could be custom blended with a demulsifier. Or really anything. Or it could just be relabeled of another brand and up charged. I was mostly curious if the additives in diesel oil would be OK for a smaller gas engine. My brain thinks that there's less stress in a gas engine, but higher speeds, so probably just fine? |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
|
Originally Posted By Dopple: I was mostly curious if the additives in diesel oil would be OK for a smaller gas engine. My brain thinks that there's less stress in a gas engine, but higher speeds, so probably just fine? Originally Posted By Dopple: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Dopple: I've got one. Got a 2023 CFMoto CForce 600 ATV. Manual says 10w/5w/15w40 oil. Liquid cooled, fuel injected. Full synthetic 10w40 is tough to find (usually only see conv or syn blend), any issue using 15w40 full syn diesel oil? Does it share the oil with the transmission / clutch? It would be fine then. Basically just looking for a 40w. Polaris is like that in their older bikes. There's no real "standard" for a power sports oil. Unlike NMMA standards with marine outboard oils. So powersports can be anything from just marketing to having a JASO Ma/Ma2 certification. To anything in between. They could be custom blended with a demulsifier. Or really anything. Or it could just be relabeled of another brand and up charged. I was mostly curious if the additives in diesel oil would be OK for a smaller gas engine. My brain thinks that there's less stress in a gas engine, but higher speeds, so probably just fine? Gasoline engines are higher RPMs. Which can lead to foaming issues. However, heavy boost diesels also generate a lot of foaming. Diesel engine oils are generally older spec gasoline engine oils as well. But their additive levels stop them from generally being anything besides SN. Being powersports. It’s engine is still an “old” design compared to say a 2025 GDI turbo engine. So diesel engine oils will generally be fine. Especially a full synthetic. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
|
Originally Posted By Dopple: My 16 WK2 Hemi takes 5w20. My wife's 17 WK2 Pentastar takes 0w20. They both get 5w30. I 5w-30 all things except my tractor and 67 Mustang. As soon as the warranty expires on my wife's new Subaru it too will get 5w-30. The book says it's fine to use and it seems to be what Subaru uses in Africa. |
| I went to Wal Mart again today on my lunch break. I wanted to pick up another jug of VRP and some M1 European 5w40. Also, I was curious to see how the selection is holding up. This Wal Mart is usually well stocked, and like I told Emoto, typically in good order. Today, it didn't look as good as it usually does. There was no VRP 5w30, just a few jugs of 5w20. There was no PUP 5w30, just a couple of jugs of 5w20. The Super Tech selection was good, but less than it is usually. There was no M1 0w30 ESP. I was able to get the new M1 cleaning oil, whatever that's called. I got the jug of M1 5w40 and a jug of Valvoline Advanced 5w30. I've been wanting to try that one. That was probably my last oil run for a while. If Fox is correct, and I'm sure he is, this Wal Mart won't be getting many more shipments in (if any) to restock what they are selling. Once a lot more people start stocking up, inventory is going to deplete quickly. I hope everyone is getting what they need. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I went to Wal Mart again today on my lunch break. I wanted to pick up another jug of VRP and some M1 European 5w40. Also, I was curious to see how the selection is holding up. This Wal Mart is usually well stocked, and like I told Emoto, typically in good order. Today, it didn't look as good as it usually does. There was no VRP 5w30, just a few jugs of 5w20. There was no PUP 5w30, just a couple of jugs of 5w20. The Super Tech selection was good, but less than it is usually. There was no M1 0w30 ESP. I was able to get the new M1 cleaning oil, whatever that's called. I got the jug of M1 5w40 and a jug of Valvoline Advanced 5w30. I've been wanting to try that one. That was probably my last oil run for a while. If Fox is correct, and I'm sure he is, this Wal Mart won't be getting many more shipments in (if any) to restock what they are selling. Once a lot more people start stocking up, inventory is going to deplete quickly. I hope everyone is getting what they need. I stopped at Walmart by my work last week and it was picked clean of all of that. Stopped off at the one by the house on the way home and out had a few jugs of Mobil 1 ESP left so I grabbed those. Went to their web site and surprisingly it showed as in stock! Ordered a bunch of 5 quart jugs for delivery. Stocked up on enough for both cars for about 2 years worth of oil changes. Tried to warn a friend of mine, but I've all but given up on warning others of stuff like this anymore. People just don't want to listen. |
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Originally Posted By optoisolator: I stopped at Walmart by my work last week and it was picked clean of all of that. Stopped off at the one by the house on the way home and out had a few jugs of Mobil 1 ESP left so I grabbed those. Went to their web site and surprisingly it showed as in stock! Ordered a bunch of 5 quart jugs for delivery. Stocked up on enough for both cars for about 2 years worth of oil changes. Tried to warn a friend of mine, but I've all but given up on warning others of stuff like this anymore. People just don't want to listen. I told a big DIY friend of mine about two weeks ago that he needed to keep an eye on this, even though it wasn't common knowledge yet. I didn't get the impression he thought there was much to it, though. And I told my son to stock up on diesel oil now, while he still can. I don't think he took that advice. He takes his truck to a local tire shop chain for oil changes. I don't know what he plans to do if they tell him they don't have any oil and to come back in a week or two. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I have a Wal Mart near my house. I don't think they have had 5w30 PUP for a couple of months. I haven't gone there in a while so I don't know what their oil selection looks like now. I'd imagine they're running low on several oils. Word about the upcoming shortages is slowly getting out and more people are starting to stock up. I don't think we're in the mass buying rush phase yet, but I do believe it's only a matter of time. I told a big DIY friend of mine about two weeks ago that he needed to keep an eye on this, even though it wasn't common knowledge yet. I didn't get the impression he thought there was much to it, though. And I told my son to stock up on diesel oil now, while he still can. I don't think he took that advice. He takes his truck to a local tire shop chain for oil changes. I don't know what he plans to do if they tell him they don't have any oil and to come back in a week or two. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Originally Posted By optoisolator: I stopped at Walmart by my work last week and it was picked clean of all of that. Stopped off at the one by the house on the way home and out had a few jugs of Mobil 1 ESP left so I grabbed those. Went to their web site and surprisingly it showed as in stock! Ordered a bunch of 5 quart jugs for delivery. Stocked up on enough for both cars for about 2 years worth of oil changes. Tried to warn a friend of mine, but I've all but given up on warning others of stuff like this anymore. People just don't want to listen. I told a big DIY friend of mine about two weeks ago that he needed to keep an eye on this, even though it wasn't common knowledge yet. I didn't get the impression he thought there was much to it, though. And I told my son to stock up on diesel oil now, while he still can. I don't think he took that advice. He takes his truck to a local tire shop chain for oil changes. I don't know what he plans to do if they tell him they don't have any oil and to come back in a week or two. Walmart still has 5 quart jugs and single quarts of PUP 5w30 and others on their site with free shipping for orders over 35 bucks. It's been "low stock" or "few left" for days. Yeah, I've passed on the warning to others. Many are not concerned. I'm good for a couple years either way. |
Call sign: Smack
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Any idea why a Lexus LS430 with the 3UZ-FE 4.3L V8 would have a much rougher cold start and idle after switching to Mobil 1 5w30 Extended Performance High Mileage (and their matching filter). No idea what type of oil was previously in it as the old guy I bought it from had it dealer serviced for past 20 years. Normally this engine is so smooth you can barely hear or feel it running but after switching to this oil it's noticeably rougher but only on the first start after not driving the car for a few days. Car has 115K miles and has been well maintained. Oil level is perfect. This car will only see about 4k miles per year so I liked the idea of yearly oil changes. |
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Used oil analysis question: why is Zinc showing up in my EMD oil samples? Oil is Delo 710 20W40 (less than 10ppm Zn), previous oil was Mobilgard 410 (less than 5ppm Zn), but all of the sudden I’m getting 200+ ppm Zn in the oil samples out of my EMD’s. At first I thought that maybe I got the wrong oil from my supplier, but I checked the samples from the generators that have been changed several times with the same oil, and they’re showing <10ppm Zn. Any other ideas? Totally fresh water cooled, no salt water cooling or zinc anodes. Also, I’m assuming the sodium is probably from salt water exposure. The tanks are 40 years old and the vents, fills, and sounding tubes are all heavily exposed to salt water. 
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Originally Posted By paul1911: Oh boy! That drum gives me a lot of concern. Best recommendation is go get a new white one. If that's not possible I would fill with bleach water for a bit. The water that you use to mix, I would let that run for a min or two before you mix. Assume your city water has chlorine in it. If it sits the effectiveness of that goes down. But think the drum is bigger issue. I might also purge the lines after the drum with some bleach water as well do all the drop points. Two issues how do you get rid of what you have now and how do you keep it from happening again. Ok, Methanol is not as good at killing microbes as Isopropyl alcohol or ethanol, your concentration is low as well. Yea 42% you should be good, but when you dilute it down..... I also would be concerned that the concentrate that you may have been getting was not a right level of methanol when you got it. Do you use a higher concentration of solution in the winter or add additional methanol? Assume you would need that to keep it from freezing. If you do, do your problems stop in winter? When I looked at SDS for winter formulas that you can buy in store already mixed they are running a ~35% Methanol in them. We have plenty of barrels, white and blue plastic or metal. I don’t believe the maintenance guy ever changes the mixture, 5 gallons to 50 all year long. Didn’t really have any problems for 5 or 6 years, then we started seeing cars and vans with plugged washer pump screens. It isn’t noticeable in the shop or in the fluid coming out of the nozzles, it’s just when cars come back. We work on 20-30 cars a day and were seeing it 1-2 times a month. I’ll flush it out with some straight 42% and see how it goes. Would a blue barrel be better? There no natural light in that room, but the overheads are on a few hours a day. |
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If you guys haven't done it already (and you are needing oil).....find your location oil/lubrication dealer in town and call them up. Sometimes they will have killer deals on automotive type oils .....in addition to the industrial type stuff they sell. I picked up a couple of cases of 12qts of Kendal GT-1 Max 5w-30....for $36 each. |
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Originally Posted By HiPower1935: Used oil analysis question: why is Zinc showing up in my EMD oil samples? Oil is Delo 710 20W40 (less than 10ppm Zn), previous oil was Mobilgard 410 (less than 5ppm Zn), but all of the sudden I'm getting 200+ ppm Zn in the oil samples out of my EMD's. At first I thought that maybe I got the wrong oil from my supplier, but I checked the samples from the generators that have been changed several times with the same oil, and they're showing <10ppm Zn. Any other ideas? Totally fresh water cooled, no salt water cooling or zinc anodes. Also, I'm assuming the sodium is probably from salt water exposure. The tanks are 40 years old and the vents, fills, and sounding tubes are all heavily exposed to salt water. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/504047/IMG_3830-3746421.jpg ETA: sorry, just read the rest of your post. Got focused on the report. Interesting that the lab is reporting coolant in the oil at times as well. |
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Originally Posted By HiPower1935: Used oil analysis question: why is Zinc showing up in my EMD oil samples? Oil is Delo 710 20W40 (less than 10ppm Zn), previous oil was Mobilgard 410 (less than 5ppm Zn), but all of the sudden I'm getting 200+ ppm Zn in the oil samples out of my EMD's. At first I thought that maybe I got the wrong oil from my supplier, but I checked the samples from the generators that have been changed several times with the same oil, and they're showing <10ppm Zn. Any other ideas? Totally fresh water cooled, no salt water cooling or zinc anodes. Also, I'm assuming the sodium is probably from salt water exposure. The tanks are 40 years old and the vents, fills, and sounding tubes are all heavily exposed to salt water. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/504047/IMG_3830-3746421.jpg Zinc and Phos both make up the ZDDP antiwear additive and it's close analogs, so when you see both of those trend together, usually I would investigate a change in the antiwear additive. In your case with a marine oil that's supposed to be zinc-free, my first check would be to audit your supplier to make sure they're not cross contaminating it with a diesel oil in either packaging or delivery if they do bulk. Or, since you say it's only in this unit, audit your internal maintenance. If you also have a Diesel engine oil in your storeroom used for other thing, perhaps someone doing a top-off used that by mistake. I was also agree the sodium is probably from the sea water. In land based engines, sodium is 99% of the time coming from an antifreeze leak into the oil, which is probably why this lab also auto flagged all the samples with high sodium as having a coolant leak. If you're using pure water in the cooling system, then some ingress of sea water is more likely the source. |
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Just a random question. There was always the thought that you couldn't use synthetic in a new engine until so many miles or oil changes or something. Always said an engine will never break in. But these days new cars come with synthetic. Is not using synthetic in a new engine a myth? Was it ever true? Maybe due to synthetic oils of the past. Do new engine designs negate the no synthetic thoughts? Can you run synthetic in a fresh rebuilt SBC or ford or whatever? What about a LS rebuild? I'm not planning on rebuilding any engine, just asking for discussion and knowledge. |
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Originally Posted By Minerk: Zinc, sodium, magnesium typically come from coolant. Often if you have those and aren't positive for coolant in the oil, the coolant is being burned. ETA: sorry, just read the rest of your post. Got focused on the report. Interesting that the lab is reporting coolant in the oil at times as well. Hadn’t considered that. Some of the high zinc samples say they’re positive for coolant, some don’t. Originally Posted By D_Man: You have both elevated zinc and phosphorus in the last two samples, and also that one from Aug '23. Zinc and Phos both make up the ZDDP antiwear additive and it's close analogs, so when you see both of those trend together, usually I would investigate a change in the antiwear additive. In your case with a marine oil that's supposed to be zinc-free, my first check would be to audit your supplier to make sure they're not cross contaminating it with a diesel oil in either packaging or delivery if they do bulk. Or, since you say it's only in this unit, audit your internal maintenance. If you also have a Diesel engine oil in your storeroom used for other thing, perhaps someone doing a top-off used that by mistake. I was also agree the sodium is probably from the sea water. In land based engines, sodium is 99% of the time coming from an antifreeze leak into the oil, which is probably why this lab also auto flagged all the samples with high sodium as having a coolant leak. If you're using pure water in the cooling system, then some ingress of sea water is more likely the source. A bit more info: I have two oil storage tanks full of the same oil that’s used in two EMD propulsion engines and two Detroit Diesel generator engines. Both the EMD’s started showing high Zn/P at the same time and have been topped off from the tanks periodically. Both Detroits have had their oil changed several times from the same tanks, but aren’t showing any Zn/Phos levels above 10ppm. I inherited this dumpster fire about a year ago and just did the first oil change I’ve done on the EMD’s last week at 4,400 hours on the oil. I’m about to just pull a couple samples with 20 hours on the oil and send them in just out of curiosity. |
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Originally Posted By captblue1: Just a random question. There was always the thought that you couldn't use synthetic in a new engine until so many miles or oil changes or something. Always said an engine will never break in. But these days new cars come with synthetic. Is not using synthetic in a new engine a myth? Was it ever true? Maybe due to synthetic oils of the past. Do new engine designs negate the no synthetic thoughts? Can you run synthetic in a fresh rebuilt SBC or ford or whatever? What about a LS rebuild? I'm not planning on rebuilding any engine, just asking for discussion and knowledge. About the only argument for not using expensive synthetic on the first oil fill is because you may want to do a short oil drain on that oil to get the manufacturing, assembly, and initial wear debris out of there sooner so save money and use a cheaper oil since you won't be running it for long. |
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Originally Posted By captblue1: Just a random question. There was always the thought that you couldn't use synthetic in a new engine until so many miles or oil changes or something. Always said an engine will never break in. But these days new cars come with synthetic. Is not using synthetic in a new engine a myth? Was it ever true? Maybe due to synthetic oils of the past. Do new engine designs negate the no synthetic thoughts? Can you run synthetic in a fresh rebuilt SBC or ford or whatever? What about a LS rebuild? I'm not planning on rebuilding any engine, just asking for discussion and knowledge. On a fresh engine.....you really shouldn't run full synthetic oil in it until you put some miles on it, and get the rings to seat in. I always run conventional oil for the first 100miles....then swap it over to full synthetic. It's mainly just to get the rings to seat in properly. |
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Originally Posted By HiPower1935: Hadn't considered that. Some of the high zinc samples say they're positive for coolant, some don't. A bit more info: I have two oil storage tanks full of the same oil that's used in two EMD propulsion engines and two Detroit Diesel generator engines. Both the EMD's started showing high Zn/P at the same time and have been topped off from the tanks periodically. Both Detroits have had their oil changed several times from the same tanks, but aren't showing any Zn/Phos levels above 10ppm. I inherited this dumpster fire about a year ago and just did the first oil change I've done on the EMD's last week at 4,400 hours on the oil. I'm about to just pull a couple samples with 20 hours on the oil and send them in just out of curiosity. Otherwise I'd agree it is odd if it's all from the same oil tank but only effecting the EMDs. You said the EMDs get topped off with oil, do the DDs also or do they always get full changes? What is the timeframes for top offs and changes for both types of engines? |
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Originally Posted By imq707s: On a fresh engine.....you really shouldn't run full synthetic oil in it until you put some miles on it, and get the rings to seat in. I always run conventional oil for the first 100miles....then swap it over to full synthetic. It's mainly just to get the rings to seat in properly. What engines are we talking here? |
Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!