Posted: 12/9/2010 6:03:21 PM EDT
|
I will soon retrieve my car, which has been at a shop having the Pontiac 455/4bbl rebuilt. We have all heard any number of iron-clad rules about breaking in a new or rebuilt engine.
What, if anything, do my arfbrothers say I should do to get the best results on a brand new big V-8 ? |
|
As long as the engine builder did the proper cam break in, there is nothing to do really. Rings seat within minutes, not miles. Both metal and machining technology have come a LONG way since the old school.
I'd change the oil within 100 miles to get the assy lube out and any small metal shavings that may have been left over from clearancing etc but that's it. Drive it like you stole it or baby it is really up to you... <––––––––built countless motors over the years from stock replacements to 10k rpm screamers. Broke damn near everyone of them in on the dyno doing baseline tunes with no issues. |
|
Quoted:
I will soon retrieve my car, which has been at a shop having the Pontiac 455/4bbl rebuilt. We have all heard any number of iron-clad rules about breaking in a new or rebuilt engine. What, if anything, do my arfbrothers say I should do to get the best results on a brand new big V-8 ? IF the moter has not been fired make sure you pull the distributor get a preoiling bit from Summit and spin the oil pump till you have pressure.. Then make sure you have good fuel pressure, button everything up and fire it up. Run it up to about 2500 for a few min keeping a good eye on oil,temp gauges. Shut her down and let her cool. then drive it for a few. vary the rpms but don't go stupid. And DO NOT just let it sit and idle for a long time. |
|
Quoted: As long as the engine builder did the proper cam break in, there is nothing to do really. Rings seat within minutes, not miles. Both metal and machining technology have come a LONG way since the old school. I'd change the oil within 100 miles to get the assy lube out and any small metal shavings that may have been left over from clearancing etc but that's it. Drive it like you stole it or baby it is really up to you... <––––––––built countless motors over the years from stock replacements to 10k rpm screamers. Broke damn near everyone of them in on the dyno doing baseline tunes with no issues. Yep, one or two early changes with dino oil, then synthetic after 3000-5000. |
| there is only thing you really need to do. DO NOT drive the car at a constant speed for the first 500 miles. vary your cars speed constantly when driving for the first 500 miles. just do alot of speeding up and slowing down. you dont want the rings to set at a certain speed when breaking it in. |
|
Ask the builder.....
I ran my Pineapple Racing build 2k miles before ever reaching 4000RPM and had four oil changes. As soon as it hit 2k I shot it on the freeway and blew soot and carbon all over the onramp all the way to 13,000 RPM then hit second gear and it was like a JATO strapped to the back (with fireballs) in third and fourth. Listen to the guy who builds the motor. Some say run it like you have stolen it from the get go so you don't build a wear ring at the top of the cylinder. Some say baby it til X. |
|
Quoted: Drive it like you stole it then change your oil after 500 miles if shit is going to break on a rebuild it will happen, dont matter if you baby it or hammer it. thats how always did it both bikes and cars normally changed the oil once at 200 or so though then 500 and then 1000 probably not necessary but what the hell on another note what do you think of the "don't break in on synthetic oil" thinking my engine building days are way behind me so when I did much car tinkering syn oil was exotic weird shit sold by amzoil |