Posted: 2/8/2007 10:34:52 AM EDT
|
I have purchased a bi-level home 18yoa with traditional drywall application. Well as part of moving in, I repainted everthing and fixed nail pops etc. I just noticed this am, a large crack following a joint in the ceiling for about 10ft. It appears to have "buckled" at the joint. How the heck do I fix this and keep it from happening again? Thanks BTW the new paint is just over 2 mos. |
|
If it's not something serious like the structure moving, you can try latex caulk or some kind of flexible spackle and paint over. (or just fill it with paint) Push on the wall board to see if it moves then fasten as per stretch415's post. Like admiralcrunch said, if too much joint compound was used it will crack when it's drying. Sometimes it just cracks when it's drying even if it's not built up too much. You might just have to give it a 'couple' of touch-ups. some cracks can be a PITA. If it is a structural problem, you have to fix that first. |
|
Found this stuff at bLowes:Good-bye Cracks http://www.valspar.com/val/resident/goof-off.jspwww.valspar.com/val/resident/goof-off.jsp I am going to try it this weekend. |
|
You mention "nail pops"--if the drywall was put on with nails instead of screws it is very likely the drywall is sagging a bit. Mine did. I used a cordless drill, stud finder, and 1 5/8" drywall screws to push mine back up. Once up, take a utility knife and cut a "V" groove on the joint. Mud the joint using fiberglass mesh tape (self sticking!) and build it up a little, sand, and then repaint. I also had to screw between the joints to make a nice job. The nail pops make it easy to find the joists, along with the stud finder. I found the lifting of the drywall created LOTS of new visible nail heads. I whacked each nail pop with a hammer to make a little divot below grade, then put a screw between each nail. Mud the whole row nicely and then paint. Worked good for a year this month. |
| Inspect your roof. You may have a leak. I removed a popcorn ceiling and found a big section that had become unsecure with no nail pops. The previous owner had a leak and this was the lowest point. I repaired it with a bunch of drywall screws prior to retexturing. |
|
"I used a cordless drill, stud finder, and 1 5/8" drywall screws to push mine back up." The correct drill-driver for drywall stops driving the screw based on depth. It makes the correct dimple for mud at the screw also. If the head of the drywall screw tears the paper under the head it produces almost no long term strength. The paper must be intact and compressed under the screw head without tearing. |
I used one of the (adjustable) driver bits in the cordless drill. |