Posted: 5/11/2015 10:01:51 AM EDT
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Does the Harbor Freight kit suck? (5 stars, 30 Reviews)
http://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-18-pc-69053-8546.html Also--can you recommend a reasonably-priced bleeder kit (or should I just make one out of a soda bottle)? Thanks for any input. |
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Same here, except the couple decades part, I'm not quite that old 
I have even used channel locks and the pad on small motorcycle calipers. Quoted:
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DAMN DUDE...I been using the old brake pad and a small C clamp for a couple of decades now... Same here, except the couple decades part, I'm not quite that old
I have even used channel locks and the pad on small motorcycle calipers. Channel locks and brake pads on an E-350 front caliper 
Do you even fore arm strength bro
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I just use a screwdriver and pry back the pistons before removing the caliper from the rotor. If that does not push it all the way back, use one of the old pads and a C-clamp.
I used to use a mityvac for bleeding but then put speed bleeders on my motorcycle and my truck. too easy and cheap. Sold in most auto parts store in the Help section. 
http://www.speedbleeder.com/ |
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DAMN DUDE...I been using the old brake pad and a small C clamp for a couple of decades now... Really Large C Clamp in my case. Unless you are a professional or buying a professional compression tool you will likely be disappointed. That kit mainly for brakes that have to be turned in, not pressed in. There are a number of vehicles that have brakes on the rear end that have to be tuned in and not pressed in. In fact pressing them in will destroy the whole calipers.... . Best to know which one you are working on. But for pressed in ones....not necessary.
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Channel locks and brake pads on an E-350 front caliper
Do you even fore arm strength bro Quoted:
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DAMN DUDE...I been using the old brake pad and a small C clamp for a couple of decades now... Same here, except the couple decades part, I'm not quite that old
I have even used channel locks and the pad on small motorcycle calipers. Channel locks and brake pads on an E-350 front caliper
Do you even fore arm strength bro DONT YOU KNOW I HAVE A MEDICAL CONDITION THAT LEAVES ME THIS WAY!!
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Quoted: For my car (2003 vw) on the rears, you have to turn clock wise and press at the same time. Quoted: Quoted: I have been using an 8 inch C-clamp for 25 years . I have never had an issue |
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It doesn't look like many of you have changed rear discs on cars built in the past 20 years. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I'm an old-school VW guy--and I've used C-clamps in the past--but some calipers DO require you to spin the caliper as it recesses, and NOT doing that will bung up the housing--which is why I wanted to get a kit. |
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That seems kind of high for something like that from Harbor Freight. I have a couple of specialty tools for compressing pistons from back when I worked at dealerships. I ended up with a couple of multi use type tools from Lisle that were around $10 each, they are sort of cube shaped, you turn them to the side you need and go to work. There are only a few vehicles that they are actually needed for. At the Toyota dealer I worked at most of the guys doing front brakes would just take a big screwdriver, stick it between the pad and rotor before pulling the caliper off and pry backwards, pull the caliper slap the new pads on and call it good. |
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This. It's actually hard to fathom what all the pieces in that Harbor Freight kit are for. Unless you're working on 30 different makes/models a properly sized c-clamp should get the job done. Quoted:
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C clamp dude. This. It's actually hard to fathom what all the pieces in that Harbor Freight kit are for. Unless you're working on 30 different makes/models a properly sized c-clamp should get the job done. I'm a shade-tree mechanic, but (strange convergence) I know like 3 people who all need their brakes done--Saab, Toyota, and a Subaru. |
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Um what? Quoted:
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It doesn't look like many of you have changed rear discs on cars built in the past 20 years. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Um what? 1997 Ford Mustangs have turned in rear calipers , as to Volvos and others. For those of US who do not buy new or foreign cars and are mainly allergic to Fords...we rarely encounter that.
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It doesn't look like many of you have changed rear discs on cars built in the past 20 years. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile No shit. Its funny with all the responses, it shows they really haven't worked on many cars at all. Many rear calipers take a special tool, a c-clamp will not work. The piston must be rotated back into position. This tool I generally just rent for free at the auto parts places if I am working on a car that requires it. I have a little one I got at auto-zone that is 4-sided and connects to a ratchet, and I try that one first, if it works then no rental needed. 
I use a c-clamp for any pistons that are straight push back. On bleeding, I bought a suction kit years ago, but it was messy and I used it so infrequently it deteriorated after a decade. I went back to using a piece of tubing and a bottle, and a friend/wife to pump the brakes. Takes no time at all. Just did a Jeep Wrangler new front pads, rotors, shoes in the back (yuck), and bleed out all the old fluid all the way around. Start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, typically right rear. I bought a 3-pack of Craftsman C-clamps 20 years ago, they have been great. |
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1997 Ford Mustangs have turned in rear calipers , as to Volvos and others. For those of US who do not buy new or foreign cars and are mainly allergic to Fords...we rarely encounter that. Quoted:
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It doesn't look like many of you have changed rear discs on cars built in the past 20 years. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Um what? 1997 Ford Mustangs have turned in rear calipers , as to Volvos and others. For those of US who do not buy new or foreign cars and are mainly allergic to Fords...we rarely encounter that. LOL--I got the Saab for free when the turbocharger blew, and I rebuilt it using an online DIY. |
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I have the swaben set. It works great when you need to twist and compress. I also have a quick release c clamp that works well too. But i usually just use the tool. It is nice to have a dedicated tool for the job. I picked up the kit when i had to do a jetta that had screw in calipers. pressure bleeders like the motive are nice as well.
Eta the Swaben set looks just like the hf. I say fo. It is useful. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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A C-clamp and the old pad will work on the front calipers of majority of the vehicles on the road, it's cheap and it works.
That being said, it's the rear calipers that throw a wrinkle in it. Due to the parking brake design on some vehicles, the piston has to be rotated back into the caliper in order to put new pads on. You can readily identify which vehicles require this by looking at the piston itself. Typically those pistons will be solid across the face with notches or grooves machined in to them. The kit the OP linked will work just fine on that style of caliper, however unless all of the OP's vehicles are like that, then I would likely just rent a similar kit from the local parts store. |
Depending on how your parking brake works, you can either just press the rear caliper straight in, or you need a special tool. (I would go to autozone and rent one, if its a one time only use).
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-25000-Rear-Brake-Caliper/dp/B0002SQUJU For you heathens still using C-clamps, there are much better alternatives (that are worth the money if you do this professionally  ) 
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24300-Speedy-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0009OR8V6 
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-25750-Piston-Caliper-Compressor/dp/B0002SQUTU |
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For my car (2003 vw) on the rears, you have to turn clock wise and press at the same time. Quoted:
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I have been using an 8 inch C-clamp for 25 years . I have never had an issue For twist in calipers I have a Lisle tool that I have owned forever as well |
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If piston needs to be turned while pushing in, a large screwdriver used sideways like a pry bar will work.
Also check out a place like Auto Zone they loan a lot of special tools for no charge. You pay when you pick it up but they refund it (100%) when you return the tool. |
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A C-clamp and the old pad will work on the front calipers of majority of the vehicles on the road, it's cheap and it works. That being said, it's the rear calipers that throw a wrinkle in it. Due to the parking brake design on some vehicles, the piston has to be rotated back into the caliper in order to put new pads on. You can readily identify which vehicles require this by looking at the piston itself. Typically those pistons will be solid across the face with notches or grooves machined in to them. The kit the OP linked will work just fine on that style of caliper, however unless all of the OP's vehicles are like that, then I would likely just rent a similar kit from the local parts store. The easiest way to accomplish this is to simply look at how your rear parking brake is set up. If its the brake shoe in drum type (a brake shoe inside the rear rotor) then the caliper piston will go straight back in normally. If there is a giant spring on the back of the caliper itself, and there is no shoe in drum setup for the parking brake, then you will need the tool to rotate the caliper piston as you press it back into the caliper. You can use the cheap tool that looks like a square and attaches to a 3/8" drive ratchet, but the Lisle tool that I posted is much better (and faster), and usually available for rental at most auto part stores. |
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If piston needs to be turned while pushing in, a large screwdriver used sideways like a pry bar will work. Also check out a place like Auto Zone they loan a lot of special tools for no charge. You pay when you pick it up but they refund it (100%) when you return the tool. Don't listen to this guy, he doesn't know what he is talking about. 
(ETA: That will work with a normal piston on the front, or the rears if they aren't the self adjusting with a parking brake type, its a pretty common old guy go faster method) Also, screwdrivers aren't pry bars.
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I have that kit and it works great.
Note that the big screw things are labeled LH and RH for left hand or right hand twist. Confused the F out of me at first, since I just reached into the case and grabbed the first one that came to hand. Here's a cheaper kit on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAC768Q?psc=1 |
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Does the Harbor Freight kit suck? (5 stars, 30 Reviews) http://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-18-pc-69053-8546.html Also--can you recommend a reasonably-priced bleeder kit (or should I just make one out of a soda bottle)? Thanks for any input. Why do you need a caliper service kit? You can usually get by with a large C clamp (like this one from Harbor Freight for $6) to push in the caliper piston. Use the old brake pad on the face of the piston then the C clamp to push down on the pad. Use a coat hanger or bungy cord to hang the caliper from the springs so you don't damage the brake lines while replacing the pads and rotors. Don't bother with getting the rotors turned as its usually cheaper to buy brand new rotors when replacing the pads. Also prior to pushing in the caliper piston make sure to remove some fluid from the brake fluid reservoir otherwise your liable to have fluid erupt out of the reservoir when pushing in the caliper piston. Clean up any spilt brake fluid ASAP as it may damage the car's paint. For bleeding the brakes don't bother with the DIY soda bottle things. I tried that and it ended up being a real mess because the plastic of the bottle reacted to the DOT 3 brake fluid became brittle and cracked, leading old fluid all over the place. Spend the money for a Mityvac kit from Harbor Freight or the like. Makes bleeding the brakes much easier if doing it alone. You missed the 25% off coupon from Harbor Freight that was good for yesterday only. To prevent air from entering the caliper bleed nipple screw when bleeding the brakes you can either pull the bleed screw and put some thread tape on it, or use brake grease or petroleum jelly on the outside of the nipple where it meets the caliper housing to prevent air infiltration. |
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Does the Harbor Freight kit suck? (5 stars, 30 Reviews) http://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-18-pc-69053-8546.html Also--can you recommend a reasonably-priced bleeder kit (or should I just make one out of a soda bottle)? Thanks for any input. 
caliper compression tool, 
bleeder kit, 
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