Anybody Know Ford 6.0 Diesel Engines? (Page 2 of 2)
|
Our brush truck has a 6.0. Sounds insane when you have the hammer down and the sirens wound up. I would seriously consider tinkering on one for $2700 if it was owned by an individual. For an old landscaping company dump truck that probably has a ton of hours on it and was probably wailed on by a bunch of guys with no skin in the game, I’m not so sure. Also, regarding the insanity of truck rental pricing, consider adjusting your pick up and drop off locations. TX is a very popular moving destination so trips which end there will be pretty pricy. Try setting the ending location somewhere less popular, like OK, and figure out a way to get home from there. I have seen it be far cheaper to make the extra drive to a different state, then catch a one way flight home. Is it a pain? Yes. But not as much of a pain as a truck that won’t start in the parking lot of a Pilot 1,000 miles from home with your trailer behind it. |
|
Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Yeah the “current crop” of HD gas trucks are amazing for sure, but that’s probably not a realistic option for OP. And unless the gooseneck is a small 14k model, it’s still going to be too big to tow it legally with any gas motor I’m familiar with. I wasn't really disagreeing with you, just saying that the idea a diesel is necessary for a lot of those loads is antiquated. I'm not really sure what you mean by gas motors not being legally able to tow a certain load, an F350 with the Godzilla is good for over 22,000lbs. All of the 3/4 ton gassers will do over 17,000 with the right diff gearing. |
| My buddy has had a 6.0 since it was four years old. He will attempt to fix anything mechanical on a vehicle himself (i.e., removing a crv transmission himself using his forklift, changing turbos on the 6.0 himself). Every 18 months, the 6.0 gets some problem that he can't fix. I made the joke a while back that every time it goes to the mechanic, it costs him 3k. The repair may be slightly higher, or slightly lower, but that joke has proven to be correct as an average. |
|
Originally Posted By AK-12: I wasn't really disagreeing with you, just saying that the idea a diesel is necessary for a lot of those loads is antiquated. I'm not really sure what you mean by gas motors not being legally able to tow a certain load, an F350 with the Godzilla is good for over 22,000lbs. All of the 3/4 ton gassers will do over 17,000 with the right diff gearing. Originally Posted By AK-12: Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Yeah the “current crop” of HD gas trucks are amazing for sure, but that’s probably not a realistic option for OP. And unless the gooseneck is a small 14k model, it’s still going to be too big to tow it legally with any gas motor I’m familiar with. I wasn't really disagreeing with you, just saying that the idea a diesel is necessary for a lot of those loads is antiquated. I'm not really sure what you mean by gas motors not being legally able to tow a certain load, an F350 with the Godzilla is good for over 22,000lbs. All of the 3/4 ton gassers will do over 17,000 with the right diff gearing. My backup work truck is a '97 F250 with the 5.8 gas engine, auto trans.. 11 mpg but it will get the job done. I've towed 12K with it, no problem. |
|
Originally Posted By AK-12: I wasn't really disagreeing with you, just saying that the idea a diesel is necessary for a lot of those loads is antiquated. I'm not really sure what you mean by gas motors not being legally able to tow a certain load, an F350 with the Godzilla is good for over 22,000lbs. All of the 3/4 ton gassers will do over 17,000 with the right diff gearing. Originally Posted By AK-12: Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Yeah the “current crop” of HD gas trucks are amazing for sure, but that’s probably not a realistic option for OP. And unless the gooseneck is a small 14k model, it’s still going to be too big to tow it legally with any gas motor I’m familiar with. I wasn't really disagreeing with you, just saying that the idea a diesel is necessary for a lot of those loads is antiquated. I'm not really sure what you mean by gas motors not being legally able to tow a certain load, an F350 with the Godzilla is good for over 22,000lbs. All of the 3/4 ton gassers will do over 17,000 with the right diff gearing. Yeah you can usually do up to ~17k on a newer 3/4 ton, or 14k as a conventional bumper pull, but not so much on a 2000’s era truck. Maybe it would work if he can find one with the 6.8L V10, but the 3V 5.4 isn’t going to do it. Diesel was about the only real option for heavy towing at that time, and even then it needed to be setup with low gearing. You could probably move an unladen gooseneck trailer just fine with a typical V8 F150, but I’m talking more about what is going to make the DOT sad when it comes to rated capacity. |
Joined:
Aug 2023
Posts:
1475
EE: 0% (0)
MO, USA
|
Originally Posted By whiskerz: Why do you hate money? What everyone calls bulletproofing is literally a band aid. Do you need a diesel truck ? The math does not work for most people. $6 a gallon diesel will buy a lot of gas. Unless you just want a project to work on to take the place f a boat. Lock it down |
|
Originally Posted By M82Assault: Your best bet would be buying it as a project and swapping a 12 or 24 valve Cummins into it. The Six Leaker is trash. Originally Posted By M82Assault: Originally Posted By Eight_Ring: ROFL. I was thinking about using it as a tow vehicle for a trailer. I only have a passenger car. I was thinking 78K on a diesel motor--it's gotta have some life left to it. Your best bet would be buying it as a project and swapping a 12 or 24 valve Cummins into it. The Six Leaker is trash. Swapping the motor is well beyond my logistics capability--I've only got a driveway to work in, alas. Feels like th only way this thing would work is to get fantastically lucky on the repair*, make the haul, then dump it for whatever someone else was willing to pay down south. *(And it has happened for me before--I once got a nicely maintained $150 Volkswagen Dasher diesel running for $10 by just swapping out the air filter. A bird had built a nest in the intake and after 10 hours of diagnistics the VW mechanics at t he dealership had pronounced the car's failure to start as an unknowable mystery. The air intake is the first place I looked. But unlike them, I peeled the filter back). |
Nothing was supposed to happen this way, Doc.
|
I'd say if you got the tools and time and desire, why not? I don't think they're terrible engines. They probably weren't suitable for the vast majority that owned them for a variety of reasons, and they get much better when people leave them alone, get rid of the EGR and maintain and operate them properly. |
"O God, thy sea is so great and my boat is so small."
|
Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Yeah the “current crop” of HD gas trucks are amazing for sure, but that’s probably not a realistic option for OP. And unless the gooseneck is a small 14k model, it’s still going to be too big to tow it legally with any gas motor I’m familiar with. Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Originally Posted By AK-12: Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Being that it’s a 6.0, it probably doesn’t have that much life left in it - the 6.0 is known as THE engine to avoid, out of all the diesel engines. And if your trailer is under about 7000 pounds, you’re better off towing it with a gas truck. Eta: I see you mentioned it’s pulling a gooseneck for a 1-way trip, so yeah you need a big truck. A clapped old 7.3 or a 24v Cummins would be a better choice if you can find one because it will be easier to resell. Technically, a gas 3/4 or 1 ton would have no problem pulling an unloaded gooseneck trailer (assuming flatbed and not enclosed), but it would almost certainly exceed the GVWR of a gas model. TBF the 6.4 was somehow worse. The current crop of gas HDs will pull more than a 7.3 Powerstroke will. Originally Posted By Eight_Ring: Well, the plan which I was mulling involved hauling a free 5th wheel trailer down to Texas, then selling the truck off with 80K on the odometer. What got me thinking about buying a truck in the first place is I priced a box-truck moving van rental from Penske--they wanted $7K fucking dollars for a one-way trip to Texas. What. The. Actual. Fuck. I can BUY a fucking moving van for $5000--and (again) sell the fucker when I get wherever the fuck I'm going. This has been an issue for a few years now with one way rentals from certain states to others. For a while it was basically impossible to rent a Uhaul for a one way trip to Texas from Cali. Yeah the “current crop” of HD gas trucks are amazing for sure, but that’s probably not a realistic option for OP. And unless the gooseneck is a small 14k model, it’s still going to be too big to tow it legally with any gas motor I’m familiar with. Ram with the hemi and 4.10s are up to 17,200 to 17,500 pounds depending on configuration. 2025 charts Not that id do it but it is legal and with a 3500 it isn't crazy. |
| The problem isnt the engine. Navistar does a good motor. The problem is literally everything Ford designed to support it. Best way to deal with a 6.0 is to get one thats late model (06/07) and make sure it has clean, fresh oil/fuel/coolant and strong batteries. Screw any one of those up and you'll pay for it. Bulletproofing just gets rid of, or upgrades, those components that are affected by not following the fresh/clean/strong rules. |
-Women should always wear tight clothes and men should carry powerful handguns
|
Originally Posted By CameToTruth: Ram with the hemi and 4.10s are up to 17,200 to 17,500 pounds depending on configuration. 2025 charts Not that id do it but it is legal and with a 3500 it isn't crazy. Originally Posted By CameToTruth: Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Originally Posted By AK-12: Originally Posted By HammerHammer: Being that it’s a 6.0, it probably doesn’t have that much life left in it - the 6.0 is known as THE engine to avoid, out of all the diesel engines. And if your trailer is under about 7000 pounds, you’re better off towing it with a gas truck. Eta: I see you mentioned it’s pulling a gooseneck for a 1-way trip, so yeah you need a big truck. A clapped old 7.3 or a 24v Cummins would be a better choice if you can find one because it will be easier to resell. Technically, a gas 3/4 or 1 ton would have no problem pulling an unloaded gooseneck trailer (assuming flatbed and not enclosed), but it would almost certainly exceed the GVWR of a gas model. TBF the 6.4 was somehow worse. The current crop of gas HDs will pull more than a 7.3 Powerstroke will. Originally Posted By Eight_Ring: Well, the plan which I was mulling involved hauling a free 5th wheel trailer down to Texas, then selling the truck off with 80K on the odometer. What got me thinking about buying a truck in the first place is I priced a box-truck moving van rental from Penske--they wanted $7K fucking dollars for a one-way trip to Texas. What. The. Actual. Fuck. I can BUY a fucking moving van for $5000--and (again) sell the fucker when I get wherever the fuck I'm going. This has been an issue for a few years now with one way rentals from certain states to others. For a while it was basically impossible to rent a Uhaul for a one way trip to Texas from Cali. Yeah the “current crop” of HD gas trucks are amazing for sure, but that’s probably not a realistic option for OP. And unless the gooseneck is a small 14k model, it’s still going to be too big to tow it legally with any gas motor I’m familiar with. Ram with the hemi and 4.10s are up to 17,200 to 17,500 pounds depending on configuration. 2025 charts Not that id do it but it is legal and with a 3500 it isn't crazy. Yeah, but that’s new trucks - OP is looking at cheap, old trucks. In 2006 you would have needed a dually Powerstroke for that load, and it would just barely be under the limit. The 5.4 V8 option wouldn’t come close to doing it, and the 6.8 V10 wouldn’t make the cut even with low gears.  6 years later, my old 5.0 F150 had more towing capacity than a 2006 F-250 with a 5.4L. |
|
Originally Posted By thorshammerblow: Same. Former owner of a 04 F-250. Originally Posted By thorshammerblow: Originally Posted By LRShooter: Those trucks are cheap for a reason. Even when they are running, they are cheap. As a former owner of a 2004 F-350 6.0, I wouldn't buy another. Same. Former owner of a 04 F-250. Quitters 
|
-Women should always wear tight clothes and men should carry powerful handguns
|
Originally Posted By Eight_Ring: Local guy has a listing for a 2007 F350 with 78K miles on it. It has the classic high-pressure oil leak/no start failure. The frame looks decent in the pictures, and he only wants $2700 for it. I watched a couple Youtube videos on the repair(s) and was thinking of taking it on as a project. Am I retarded and dreaming, or (assuming everything else with the motor is sound) is it possible for me, a driveway mechanic, to get this thing running? Yep...I've owned an 05' F250 for close to the last 10 years. I've been through all of the common issues, and fixed them. They have been around long enough, all the fixes and well documented....with tons of videos and info out there on how to do the repairs. If you are good with a wrench, and like working on stuff....get the truck, and fix it. Just do your research and make sure you throw the right parts at it. Don't cheap out on aftermarket seals and gaskets, oil coolers, pumps, etc. Once you figure out how the high pressure oil system, VGT turbo, and fuel systems work on these trucks, they are easy to figure out. The problem is that most people have no idea how to properly troubleshoot the high pressure oil system on these things. It's actually easy with the right tools. I currently have 285K on my truck, and it's still running like a top. But that's after a new turbo, injectors, oil cooler, head gaskets and studs, egr delete, custom tune, oil rail seals, injector cups, stand pipes, dummy plugs......all the "normal" stuff you have to replace in order to get them running nice and reliable. I've towed with it all through the mountains of Colorado, down to Florida, and everywhere in between pulling the camper and the family. I've had a few issues.....but so have the guys I know who have brand new $80K diesel trucks. Message me if I can help.  
|
|
I've had my 2007 F-350 since 2011. It's got about 110k on it and is on the factory head bolts. The only issues I've had were an injector and taking the turbo out occasionally to clean the VGT vanes. The injector failed due to low fuel pressure cracking a tip. I replaced all 8 at that point and the fuel pump. Fuel pressure is very important to setup so you can monitor. If the pump gets weak they will run fine but under WOT the pressure drops off and starts hammering the plungers into the injector tips. A lot of them run through injectors because of the pump. Also very important to monitor the delta between coolant and oil temps, this tells the health of the oil cooler. The coolant side of them will start getting plugged up from solids that develop in the coolant. When they plug it starves the EGR cooler which ruptures and puts coolant into the intake manifold and then stretches the head bolts. The Bulletproofdiesel EGR coolers are much, much more durable and a good upgrade. Flushing the coolant system and using an EC-1 rated red extended life was the thing to do as it wasn't supposed to form the solids. I don't know if that's still the recommend stuff, I haven't read up on it in years. There are a lot of updated parts for the high pressure oil system. Snap to connect fittings for the pumps, stand pipes, dummy plugs, ect that reduced potential internal leaks. I'd research that stuff and make sure I had all of it to put in if you're going to have it apart anyway. An '07 might have some of those parts in it already. Undoubtedly they have their problems, but catastrophic failures (pistons, rods, crank) are rare. The only thing like that I sort of know of is the roller lifters can come apart, ruining the cam and sending the need bearings through the low pressure oil pump. I wouldn't call it common but it does happen. If you enjoy and are capable of doing the work yourself, I think they are a great for the money. Especially if you're willing to learn about the issues and how to mitigate them. If you want someone else to work on it and just drive it I would stay away. Monitoring the coolant and oil temps, and fuel pressure will let you see the biggest problems coming before they turn into taking the heads off and new injectors. I recommend an Edge Insight to monitor. 
|
|
Absolutely, positively use Motorcraft filters on anything that has a filter! Use Motorcraft 15W40 motor oil! Replace the fucked up connector on the high pressure oil pump. Likely need to replace the FICM. Look at the turbo inlet wheel, any rounding of the blades at all the motor is dusted and you don't want it. If it has a K & N air filter almost guarantee the engine is dusted. |
|
Originally Posted By ihv800: I've had my 2007 F-350 since 2011. It's got about 110k on it and is on the factory head bolts. The only issues I've had were an injector and taking the turbo out occasionally to clean the VGT vanes. The injector failed due to low fuel pressure cracking a tip. I replaced all 8 at that point and the fuel pump. Fuel pressure is very important to setup so you can monitor. If the pump gets weak they will run fine but under WOT the pressure drops off and starts hammering the plungers into the injector tips. A lot of them run through injectors because of the pump. Also very important to monitor the delta between coolant and oil temps, this tells the health of the oil cooler. The coolant side of them will start getting plugged up from solids that develop in the coolant. When they plug it starves the EGR cooler which ruptures and puts coolant into the intake manifold and then stretches the head bolts. The Bulletproofdiesel EGR coolers are much, much more durable and a good upgrade. Flushing the coolant system and using an EC-1 rated red extended life was the thing to do as it wasn't supposed to form the solids. I don't know if that's still the recommend stuff, I haven't read up on it in years. There are a lot of updated parts for the high pressure oil system. Snap to connect fittings for the pumps, stand pipes, dummy plugs, ect that reduced potential internal leaks. I'd research that stuff and make sure I had all of it to put in if you're going to have it apart anyway. An '07 might have some of those parts in it already. Undoubtedly they have their problems, but catastrophic failures (pistons, rods, crank) are rare. The only thing like that I sort of know of is the roller lifters can come apart, ruining the cam and sending the need bearings through the low pressure oil pump. I wouldn't call it common but it does happen. If you enjoy and are capable of doing the work yourself, I think they are a great for the money. Especially if you're willing to learn about the issues and how to mitigate them. If you want someone else to work on it and just drive it I would stay away. Monitoring the coolant and oil temps, and fuel pressure will let you see the biggest problems coming before they turn into taking the heads off and new injectors. I recommend an Edge Insight to monitor. https://i.imgur.com/E4uYTAJ.jpeg Great points on the monitoring. I have a small tablet mounted on the dash setup with TorquePro so I can keep an eye on oil/coolant deltas, trans temps, FICM voltage, VGT %, Boost, etc, etc......and then I have an EGT gauge and fuel pressure gauge mounted on the side pillar. It's almost too much stuff to monitor......it just feels like I'm always looking at something all the time wondering if it's ok or not. But like you said....fuel pressure and oil/coolant temp issues will kill these things. A few years ago I went with a bigger KC stage 1 turbo, and 155/30 injectors.......so I can really get the EGT's up there if I lug the motor, so it's nice to be able to see what's going on. Overall....I've been very happy with my 05. I work with a few guys that have 2-3yr old Duramax diesel trucks, and they have all kinds of issues. So at this point, I don't feel too bad about driving my 21yr old truck that I picked up for $8K 10 years ago.
|
|
Originally Posted By diesel2: Absolutely, positively use Motorcraft filters on anything that has a filter! YEP! 100% Use Motorcraft 15W40 motor oil! I run AMSOIL or any other good quality 5w-40 oil in mine year round....at operating temps it's the same weight at 15w-40, but when it's cold it's thinner....starts sooo much easier in the cold winter temps. 285K on the motor....so I don't think it's hurting anything. Replace the fucked up connector on the high pressure oil pump. YEP, if you are in there...replace it. Likely need to replace the FICM. 21yrs and 285K miles on mine, and it's still oem (knock on wood). Look at the turbo inlet wheel, any rounding of the blades at all the motor is dusted and you don't want it. Yep.... If it has a K & N air filter almost guarantee the engine is dusted....and YEP! The OEM filters work great! |
