Posted: 5/7/2017 11:55:46 AM EDT
| My yard is approximately 35' X 70' it was planted sometime in the mid to late 70's I think with NO sprinkler system, I don't want to tear it up by trenching down the center, I would to run them down the 70' side, my question is can I buy a sprinkler that can cover the 35' span? |
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Our systems was installed with Rainbird Maxi-Paws on roughly 35' spacing.
i don't think you're going to like having them 70' apart trying to meet in the middle. You'll get poor coverage. I think you can rent a puller that will pull the water line and leave a pretty minimum trace behind. Look up the Orbit app. On-line sprinker design tool. |
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Yes there are many but really need more information to lay it out properly.
Where is your water coming from. Well or city. What is size of pipe from your supply. What pressure is your supply How far are you going to run the line from supply. Do you have dirty water and need a filter? For proper layout and even watering, sprinklers should overlap and hit the next sprinkler head. If you don't you Will fight dry spots and will waste and over water in areas to get your dry spots green. Not knowing all the other info I would say do two trenches of 70' one down each side of your yard. Of you take care with the grass as you cut trench dont cut shallow the grass will survive and fertilize, it will fill in any gaps. Not knowing all your restrictions of the supply and assuming there are none and everything is perfect. I've done a lot of real world testing and comparison and found Hunter MP sprinkler line to be outstanding for many applications. I have extreme water restictions limited to 25.6gpm to irrigate 5 acres. These work for me. I would suggest mp3500 sprinkler heads. They screw into a basic 4" pop up sprinkler body. They are inexpensive don't get pushed by wind as bad and you don't have to worry about matching water flow like you do with rotary heads. They are adjustable for radius and coverage arch. Head with all fittings should be about 9.00 and will use less water more efficiently. Do a search for Hunter MP3500 and there should be a spec sheet and information for you. Placement, I would put three down each side of yard. So six sprinklers I will have to draw it out doing it in my head right now. But think one each corner and one each side middle. 4-90* and 2-180*. Your water need should be about 10.5 gallons a minute which you should be able to use 1" pvc schedule 40 pipe then tap off with flex fitting pivots for sprinklers. You will need 40psi at the sprinkler head so this is where the other info kicks in being needed. Longer the run from supply to sprinklers means more friction and loss of pressure and flow. So really need to know how what your supply is. Hope this helps a bit to get you started. |
| What you want to try and achieve Is head to head coverage, or overlapping coverage. 30'-35' spacing should give you that. Hunter PGP gear driven rotors should work well for you. 15 GPM (about 5 heads per zone with 3GPM nozzles) a zone for a 5/8" meter (city water. |
| Layout I stated above can be done with one valve and if you don't want to do wire then get a battery powered valve that you can program uses a 9v battery and you are good to go. They work great and Sony have to worry about a panel. Pm me if you have questions I can get all that info over to you if needed. |
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Quoted:
Yes there are many but really need more information to lay it out properly. Where is your water coming from. Well or city. What is size of pipe from your supply. What pressure is your supply How far are you going to run the line from supply. Do you have dirty water and need a filter? For proper layout and even watering, sprinklers should overlap and hit the next sprinkler head. If you don't you Will fight dry spots and will waste and over water in areas to get your dry spots green. Not knowing all the other info I would say do two trenches of 70' one down each side of your yard. Of you take care with the grass as you cut trench dont cut shallow the grass will survive and fertilize, it will fill in any gaps. Not knowing all your restrictions of the supply and assuming there are none and everything is perfect. I've done a lot of real world testing and comparison and found Hunter MP sprinkler line to be outstanding for many applications. I have extreme water restictions limited to 25.6gpm to irrigate 5 acres. These work for me. I would suggest mp3500 sprinkler heads. They screw into a basic 4" pop up sprinkler body. They are inexpensive don't get pushed by wind as bad and you don't have to worry about matching water flow like you do with rotary heads. They are adjustable for radius and coverage arch. Head with all fittings should be about 9.00 and will use less water more efficiently. Do a search for Hunter MP3500 and there should be a spec sheet and information for you. Placement, I would put three down each side of yard. So six sprinklers I will have to draw it out doing it in my head right now. But think one each corner and one each side middle. 4-90* and 2-180*. Your water need should be about 10.5 gallons a minute which you should be able to use 1" pvc schedule 40 pipe then tap off with flex fitting pivots for sprinklers. You will need 40psi at the sprinkler head so this is where the other info kicks in being needed. Longer the run from supply to sprinklers means more friction and loss of pressure and flow. So really need to know how what your supply is. Hope this helps a bit to get you started. Sorry but I hate MP rotators for turf (too easily affected by wind) They are great for certain applications but not all. They are no Toro stream rotor, which is what they are trying to emulate. |
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https://www.hunterindustries.com/irrigation-product/nozzles/mp-rotator
https://www.hunterindustries.com/videos/node-programming-node-irrigation-controller Sprinklers and NODE valve. Can't remember price on valve exactly but think about 40 to 60. Think sprinkler warehouse has themn online. Total cost of supplies for system should be around 200 not including installation labor which you can do. Don't need a trencher do it by hand. Before you start digging sharpen your shovel...yes I said sharpen your shovel doesn't have to be knife sharp but it will help you dig. Good luck, again happy to help if you have questions. You will get great coverage out of these. |
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Can I pile on with a question about future-proofing?
I want to put wire in the ground along with some new poly runs to allow someday doing a distributed system.... what should I put in to facilitate this? I assume standard jacketed multi-conductor wire or Ethernet cable isn't going to work real well.... TIA! |
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Quoted:
This. Sorry but I hate MP rotators for turf (too easily affected by wind) They are great for certain applications but not all. They are no Toro stream rotor, which is what they are trying to emulate. Intersting that you feel the spray is pushed more with the MP than the single spray as the arch is lower on MP and not as much mist. They do require the right pressure and don't like extra pressure not sure what your application was where you had this happen. These are much better than the old Toro from years past. Not trying to start start a fight....this is what I've found real world on my property. You have found something different. I use different sprinklers in different areas of my property. No water restrictions then I-40 with 44 nozzle pumps about 23 gpm in my application and have 14 on a line with 24 lines. I also use I-25 which is a great unit gray nozzle. Less expensive that the 70.00 i40. Again though no gpm restrictions. Both these do great in wind but you are using a stream of water 20 times more gpm than this application. I have tried the I-20 in some areas won't buy them again as have a lot of failures and found they don't do well in wind at all. Spray 3ft into wind and wind blows spray 9 ft back. I have pictures of the tests I've done between these mp3000 and single stream rotary and the mp was still shooting 25feet into the wind instead of 30 as it's arch is lower and solid stream with larger droplets. You don't get as much water misting and waste with MP either. Don't have to match watering rate with nozzle flow for a 90* and 180. So 6gpm nozzle will shoot further than the 3gpm 90* but if you put a 6gpm nozzle in the 90* then you over water and waste. Gonna be lucky to get 20 ft out of a 3gpm nozzle. I've tried......they mist too much. In this application thought it would be easier for him given he won't have to worry about matching nozzles ranges and Don't know what his supply is. Still think it's interesting that what you have found with the MP is opposite from what I have found. Think we are all trying to help him with what we know and have used. |
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Quoted:
My yard is approximately 35' X 70' it was planted sometime in the mid to late 70's I think with NO sprinkler system, I don't want to tear it up by trenching down the center, I would to run them down the 70' side, my question is can I buy a sprinkler that can cover the 35' span? you don't install an in-ground sprinkler system using a trencher; you use a "vibratory plow" -- sometimes referred to by the name of one of the more popular manufacturers thereof, "ditch witch". the benefit of the vibratory plow is that there is basically NOTHING for you do to once the pipe is pulled. there is a almost invisible slit in the grass and topsoil and that's it. simply water the grass bracketing the slit with a garden hose once a day for two or three days and a week later you will be hard pressed to even find where the pipe was pulled. that said, do not pull pipe using a ditch witch the day after 2" of rain –– you will create a gigantic mess. to do an install with a ditch witch: mark where the heads will be positioned. figure out how many zones you will home run to the manifold. using the ditch-witch, pull the zone pipe ("lateral") past each marked site. at the sprinkler head locations, you dig a small hole down to the pipe, clean the top of the pipe, put a saddle adapter on the poly pipe, drill or melt a hole through the top wall of the pipe, and then mount the head using a PVC riser such that the top of the head is just flush with the soil level. note ... before putting the heads on, run each zone for a couple of minutes to get all of the dirt/debris out of the system. otherwise you can busy yourself most of the afternoon cleaning the head orifices. the alternative is to leave the orifices out of all of the heads when you do the startup. a zone will typically consist of between 3 and 10 heads, depending on rotor or spray heads, water pressure, run distance, pipe diameter, and nozzle selection. in general, you should aim for "head to head" coverage. that is, the throw of each head should be equal to the distance to the next head. optimizing this for your yard's geometry is left as an exercise to the reader. 
put the zone valves right at the manifold. the manifold is usually located directly outside the house, near the supply water. in some cases you may need to split the manifold into two sub parts, for example one for the back yard, one for the front. run 1" poly pipe out to the zone, and install saddles where you want heads. the last head will use an poly elbow with 3/4" female NPT. in general, determining how many heads on a zone is the most difficult part of the sprinkler system installation job. consult the application/installation guides from Hunter and Toro to help determine what will work for your house. to attach fittings to black poly sprinkler pipe you simply heat the end of the pipe for a brief, very brief period using a propane torch. now slide the fitting into the pipe. from there you can either use a stainless steel hose clamp, but the better/cheaper way to do it is to use Oeitiker (pinch type) clamps and a pinch pliers. you can go along very, very quickly with the Oeitiker clamps, much faster than using standard hose clamps. ar-jedi ps keep in mind that the average size ditch-witch DOES NOT CARE that either a) the poly sprinkler pipe is tangled up going into the entry point, or b) one of your body parts is entangled with the poly sprinkler pipe going into the entry point. a ditch witch is a heavy, 4 wheel drive, low pulling point machine with a 25HP engine -- and it's geared super-low. use extreme caution when you are trying to sort out a feeding problem and the ditch witch is in motion. 200psi sprinkler pipe is *really* strong and you can get your hand/wrist/arm pinched and then dragged into the pipe pull if you are not careful.  Sprinkler System Installation of Pipe  Ditch Witch 410 Pipe Pull |
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Quoted:
Can I pile on with a question about future-proofing? I want to put wire in the ground along with some new poly runs to allow someday doing a distributed system.... what should I put in to facilitate this? I assume standard jacketed multi-conductor wire or Ethernet cable isn't going to work real well.... TIA! as for the type of wire -- underground irrigation control wire has a tough jacket and is relatively inexpensive. LAN or similar applications will need CAT5 or 6 cable suited for direct burial or underground conduit use -- these types have a gel filler and are far more resistant to water ingress and corrosion/impedance changes due to a small nick in the jacket. ps: keep in mind that an underground raceway (including pipe, NM conduit, etc) is a "wet location" per the NEC. EVERY underground conduit eventually fills with water due to condensation. ask any electrician: put in conduit underground, come back a year later, it's full of water. ar-jedi eta here is an example of pulling pipe and wire at the same time:  PIPETRUCK Irrigation Install |