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Posted: 7/5/2024 4:24:46 PM EDT
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I guess proper term would be Breech. I think . But at the rear is a small hole. Looks to be by something up in there. Can’t really tell. Maybe a spot to run a live center in a lathe ? Also seems to be a set screw maybe underneath the nipple housing. Just courious. And seems the whole ass end can be unscrewed maybe. Bear with me. I’m learning the terminology. Wardawg. Attached File Attached File |
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Identify the maker and model. From the engraved message you should be able to obtain an owners manual which should identify information they think you need. Direct specific questions to the manufacturer. I could guess but that’s not ideal. Note : for consistency run a wet patch down the barrel after each shot then a dry patch. Having the same seating depth helps accuracy. If you get a dry patch stuck pour a little solvent down on to it and it should come loose. |
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That is the “breech plug” that is screwed in to the back end of the barrel. Don't try to remove it. Its going to be screwed in very tightly and generally meant to be a permanent installation. Here is a picture of a similar breech plug outside of its barrel. The hole in the rear of the plug was where the lathe center or fixture held the plug when the male threaded were cut. The set screw fills the hole that was left when the channel connecting the hole from the nipple area to the bore was drilled. That set screw might come out but once some rust of corrosion sets in they can be difficult to remove. It is better left in place. You can clean the barrel sufficiently by removing the nipple only and running solvent (pushed by a cleaning patch) through the barrel and breech plug. |
Steve Rose
"Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks"
Thomas Jefferson - 1785
"Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks"
Thomas Jefferson - 1785
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Originally Posted By GunCat: That is the “breech plug” that is screwed in to the back end of the barrel. Don't try to remove it. Its going to be screwed in very tightly and generally meant to be a permanent installation. Here is a picture of a similar breech plug outside of its barrel. The hole in the rear of the plug was where the lathe center or fixture held the plug when the male threaded were cut. The set screw fills the hole that was left when the channel connecting the hole from the nipple area to the bore was drilled. That set screw might come out but once some rust of corrosion sets in they can be difficult to remove. It is better left in place. You can clean the barrel sufficiently by removing the nipple only and running solvent (pushed by a cleaning patch) through the barrel and breech plug. I figured it might be for a live center. No I wasn’t going to attempt to remove the breech. Just courious about it. Thanks for the explanation. Wardawg |
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“You can clean the barrel sufficiently by removing the nipple only and running solvent (pushed by a cleaning patch) through the barrel and breech plug.” I wish add to the above statement I use soapy hot water in a old tea kettle on a stove and a rubber hose on the nipple to clean my riffles Use a large terry cloth patch and it creates a plunger effect and pushes the air out a draws in the water In and out with the hot water several times and then lift the hose out of the water to suck air and it will blow out the water Keep a towel around the top because water will get around the patch and come out the top and spill When done it will need to be put muzzle down for a minute and then a few dry patches It will very clean of all black powder residue and scale that builds up at the bottom and in the path to the nipple It will look like it is a new riffle if you inspect the inside under the nipple |
| While I have plenty of solvents. But definitely want to try the hot water . How hot do I need to get the water ? I see some folks add a little dawn dish soap . Is that needed. What extra does it do ? Do I need to blow any air or just let the heat dry it. Ballistol straight good enough to patch the barrel when all is said and done. I never used it for corrosion protection. Sorry for all the questions. But thanks for all the reply’s. Wardawg |
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Originally Posted By WarDawg: While I have plenty of solvents. But definitely want to try the hot water . How hot do I need to get the water ? I see some folks add a little dawn dish soap . Is that needed. What extra does it do ? Do I need to blow any air or just let the heat dry it. Ballistol straight good enough to patch the barrel when all is said and done. I never used it for corrosion protection. Sorry for all the questions. But thanks for all the reply’s. Wardawg I suggest you just try a few different methods for a while. You will find one that works for you. What I can say is don't over complicate it. Cleaning blackpowder and most substitutes is easier than cleaning smokeless powder. The foulding doesn't become super hard carbon and it doesn't need chemical to clean. Some use hot water, some don't. Some use some cleaner like dish soap or windex, some don't. Some use a brush, some don't. I've never seen anyone knowledgeable using a chemical like Hoppe's #9 for blackpowder, although I'm sure it works. Here's what works for me, take it for what it is. I use cool tap water. Nothing more, nothing less. I usually put a bit of water down the barrel, then run a few soaking wet patches through. After that depends. All my percussion guns have removable barrels and I take them off. I also pull the nipples at this point. If I can't, or it's a flintlock, I just plug the hole and fill the barrel with water to soak for a couple minutes. If the barrel is removable, I set the breech end in water such as a bucket or sink with some water. I then use a wet patch to pump water through the barrel. This is what really cleans the flame channel. I might do that for 30 seconds. Then I run a brush through the barrel a few times, and finish up with another 30 seconds of a wet patch. That's a clean barrel. The alternative method for the fixed barrel is after soaking I will dump and then wet patch, then flush with water again, then bore brush followed by wet patch, and then flush again. I like to make sure some water is forced through the touch hole when wet patching. After cleaning I run 3 dry patches through the bore or until I feel it's mostly dry. If I'm at home I will spray them out with compressed air. If not, I just wipe down the outside and let it air dry longer. Ideally I set them in the sun, but a lot of times I resort to some alcohol patches which drys the bore pretty quick. It still takes a little bit for the flame channel to dry out, so I usually oil them, and leave the nipple out over night. It's actually less than my writing makes it sound. It's maybe 5 minutes tops start to finish to clean, I wish my smokeless rifles cleaned that easy. I will admit I do not put a borescope down my muzzleloaders normally, as my process described above is almost always adequate. Some people use soap instead of a brush. Some people use hot water. Others still using nothing but tap water and a patch, but take longer to clean (or don't fully clean). Give them a try though. You might find soap is worth it to you. Or maybe hot water. I wouldn't use hot-hot water. Just like hot tap water hot. Boiling water will do nothing but cause flash rusting, and if the goal is to make cleaning easier and faster, why would you waste time heating up water? |
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