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Want to get a modular safe - SnapSafe or Zanotti? (Page 2 of 2)
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Originally Posted By dayphotog: That guy can pick anything |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
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I just gave up on a module safe idea. too much money for thin metal. all cost more than my brand new amsec BF safe 10 years ago and you can even get used TL safes delivered cheaper. These should cost way less for what you are getting. I had a space that had some size restrictions and it was way cheaper to find another location. |
have gun will travel
Well you seen much combat? ......... I've seen a little on TV.
We are jolly green giants, walking the Earth with guns.
Lifetime NRA member SADLY
now GOA and ASA member!!!!!
Well you seen much combat? ......... I've seen a little on TV.
We are jolly green giants, walking the Earth with guns.
Lifetime NRA member SADLY
now GOA and ASA member!!!!!
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Originally Posted By R2point0: Just have a locksmith service your existing lock. Cheaper and more secure than electronic. Well, long story short, I did get in touch with a competent locksmith in my area, and I opted for replacement for electronic instead of mechanical. Expensive upgrade to the American Security ESL20, but I'm pleased with the result. Its so refreshing working with someone with 25+ years experience, had his apprentice in tow doing the work with oversight, and being confident in exactly what needed to get done. Service call, fabrication time, new lock, all in 800 bucks. Being able to access my gear now, priceless. :) |
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Time for an update and new shenanigans. Operating Report: No issues, but I'm not in it that much. I installed a temperature and humidity monitor...   Failed To Load Product Data ...on the outside of the safe with the wire going through the door opening. I don't like the fact that it's a pinch point, but it's been operating. Lesson Learned #1: open up the hole in the back panel and route probe through it before assembly. Temp and humidity have been controlled. I use a goldenrod and a 1 kilo (I think) desiccant pack. I replace it with a fresh one every 6 months or so; I have 5 and will periodically batch recharge and vacuum seal them. I might yet install weatherstripping on the doors, but since I'm not having issues it's not a priority. No issues with the lock, but again, I'm not in it a lot. I will note that is seems a bit stiff compared to an older S&G lock on a safe at the club that I'm into a couple times a month. I'm assuming it just needs to wear in. At least it keeps me from spinning it Future: As people can see from my original pictures, my safe filled up. Fast. As in, by the time I collected everything from where they were scattered all 30 long gun slots were filled.  My girlfriend was like "How is that even possible." (She might also be getting a job at a gun shop. Lord save me from employee discounts!) Suffice it to say I should have gotten a Z3. So it's time to get another safe. I'm going with Zanotti again, same model. I still have the same space constraints and conditions, and I gotta say that the 6' option is really worth it. I went on their website and prices went up - substantially.  They are showing a special on the fully upholstered interior - free in August - on their Facebook page but not on the website. I called them and apparently the FB info is a mistake and is supposed to be taken down, but they will honor it since it's still up. But she mentioned something else that also prompted me to post. They are apparently clearing out their showroom stock and have safes available for immediate shipping. And apparently not just a couple - they have 3 each 6' Z2 models on the floor which is what I'm looking for. Downside is that you don't get to pick interior or color options, nor the lock combination. Nor the door swing, which is something that can be pretty important. And they are selling at list. But you also don't have to wait 5 weeks. So I'm a bit torn. They have the color I want, but not the interior color. All 3 of the 6' Z2's they have are 15 gun interiors. I *thought* that was what I wanted, but I'm realizing as I write this that in a year and a half I've already acquired 6 new long guns. And if the SC does the right thing at least one or two more are definite - that BM-59 kit I bought years ago is definitely going to Shuffs. On the other hand, I also could use the shelf space. Question: can one fit more long guns in the same volume using rifle rods vs. standard racking/cutouts? I always assumed they were used when a rifle was too short to reach the upper rack support, but Zanotti offers an option to leave out the racks and the owner only uses rods. I'll admit my OCD prefers a nice orderly arrangement, but if I can fit in substantially more long guns *and* keep the shelving... Miscellaneous: - I'm going to use the same feet, but install and cut off the studs earlier. - I'm going to use a grommet or strain relief in the access hole in the back panel. Or maybe a conduit bulkhead fitting, a pulling ell, and a stub out to the side - I need to check my clearance. - I'm *not* getting the pull down drawer. It's a slick unit, especially for mounting under a high shelf, but the juice isn't worth the squeeze. - I'm debating motion controlled LED lighting. It's not like I need instant light, and I already have another kit identical to my current one, but routing the wiring from the back bottom of the safe, to the switch up front, then to the tubes is a pain. - Door Handing: this one has me scratching my head a bit. In the end both safes will flank the entry door to the room. My sense of symmetry demands that the doors swing opposite. But the problem is that they would both swing the "wrong" way, into the nominal path from the door into the room. Ah, you say - just move the existing safe to the other side of the door and install the new safe in that location. And there's the rub - the whole point of putting them in that room is that they physically can't be moved after assembly without cutting joists out of the ceiling. I'd have to pull everything out, disassemble it, move it, reassemble it, and restock it. And the doors need 2 people. Anyway, more to come |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
|
Originally Posted By R2point0: Time for an update and new shenanigans. Operating Report: No issues, but I'm not in it that much. I installed a temperature and humidity monitor... www.amazon.com/dp/B09V7SSHPB ...on the outside of the safe with the wire going through the door opening. I don't like the fact that it's a pinch point, but it's been operating. Lesson Learned #1: open up the hole in the back panel and route probe through it before assembly. Temp and humidity have been controlled. I use a goldenrod and a 1 kilo (I think) desiccant pack. I replace it with a fresh one every 6 months or so; I have 5 and will periodically batch recharge and vacuum seal them. I might yet install weatherstripping on the doors, but since I'm not having issues it's not a priority. No issues with the lock, but again, I'm not in it a lot. I will note that is seems a bit stiff compared to an older S&G lock on a safe at the club that I'm into a couple times a month. I'm assuming it just needs to wear in. At least it keeps me from spinning it Future: As people can see from my original pictures, my safe filled up. Fast. As in, by the time I collected everything from where they were scattered all 30 long gun slots were filled. My girlfriend was like "How is that even possible." (She might also be getting a job at a gun shop. Lord save me from employee discounts!) Suffice it to say I should have gotten a Z3. So it's time to get another safe. I'm going with Zanotti again, same model. I still have the same space constraints and conditions, and I gotta say that the 6' option is really worth it. I went on their website and prices went up - substantially. They are showing a special on the fully upholstered interior - free in August - on their Facebook page but not on the website. I called them and apparently the FB info is a mistake and is supposed to be taken down, but they will honor it since it's still up. But she mentioned something else that also prompted me to post. They are apparently clearing out their showroom stock and have safes available for immediate shipping. And apparently not just a couple - they have 3 each 6' Z2 models on the floor which is what I'm looking for. Downside is that you don't get to pick interior or color options, nor the lock combination. Nor the door swing, which is something that can be pretty important. And they are selling at list. But you also don't have to wait 5 weeks. So I'm a bit torn. They have the color I want, but not the interior color. All 3 of the 6' Z2's they have are 15 gun interiors. I *thought* that was what I wanted, but I'm realizing as I write this that in a year and a half I've already acquired 6 new long guns. And if the SC does the right thing at least one or two more are definite - that BM-59 kit I bought years ago is definitely going to Shuffs. On the other hand, I also could use the shelf space. Question: can one fit more long guns in the same volume using rifle rods vs. standard racking/cutouts? I always assumed they were used when a rifle was too short to reach the upper rack support, but Zanotti offers an option to leave out the racks and the owner only uses rods. I'll admit my OCD prefers a nice orderly arrangement, but if I can fit in substantially more long guns *and* keep the shelving... Miscellaneous: - I'm going to use the same feet, but install and cut off the studs earlier. - I'm going to use a grommet or strain relief in the access hole in the back panel. Or maybe a conduit bulkhead fitting, a pulling ell, and a stub out to the side - I need to check my clearance. - I'm *not* getting the pull down drawer. It's a slick unit, especially for mounting under a high shelf, but the juice isn't worth the squeeze. - I'm debating motion controlled LED lighting. It's not like I need instant light, and I already have another kit identical to my current one, but routing the wiring from the back bottom of the safe, to the switch up front, then to the tubes is a pain. - Door Handing: this one has me scratching my head a bit. In the end both safes will flank the entry door to the room. My sense of symmetry demands that the doors swing opposite. But the problem is that they would both swing the "wrong" way, into the nominal path from the door into the room. Ah, you say - just move the existing safe to the other side of the door and install the new safe in that location. And there's the rub - the whole point of putting them in that room is that they physically can't be moved after assembly without cutting joists out of the ceiling. I'd have to pull everything out, disassemble it, move it, reassemble it, and restock it. And the doors need 2 people. Anyway, more to come I just received a Z3 6’ and have a question about assembly. I know not to attempt putting the door on by myself, but I’m thinking I can get the rest of it put together until my helper is freed up. I know the assembly instructions are saying put the sides on, then put the back wall in. Since the sides can be pulled back a few inches for clearance, do you think it would be a problem to put the back panel on the floor base first, then the two sides? Also, the wire to your temperature and humidity gauge, did you run it in the same one as the power outlet cord? How much did you have open it up? |
Sancte Michael Archangele, defende nos in proelio,
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
|
Originally Posted By AlabamaFan64: I just received a Z3 6' and have a question about assembly. I know not to attempt putting the door on by myself, but I'm thinking I can get the rest of it put together until my helper is freed up. I know the assembly instructions are saying put the sides on, then put the back wall in. Since the sides can be pulled back a few inches for clearance, do you think it would be a problem to put the back panel on the floor base first, then the two sides? Also, the wire to your temperature and humidity gauge, did you run it in the same one as the power outlet cord? How much did you have open it up? As for the humidity probe I installed it after the safe was set and loaded. It's only about 1" off the wall so going through the back panel wasn't happening. The hole through the back is only 3/8 diameter. I used it for electric only by cutting the plug off a household extension cord, feeding the cut end through the back wall from the inside, and then putting a replacement plug on it. That gives me 3 outlets for lights, goldenrod, and spare. The problem with the temp/humidity probe I bought is that everything is hard wired. The cord is only about 3/32" diameter, but the probe is a good half inch. And I didn't want to cut and splice the wiring because I think it would throw off the temperature reading (RTD probe). |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
|
Originally Posted By R2point0: The recommended assembly sequence is due to the fact that the sides include the corners so they will stand upright in the base unsupported. As I recall the back is basically a sheet of steel - I don't think it will stand on its own. As for the humidity probe I installed it after the safe was set and loaded. It's only about 1" off the wall so going through the back panel wasn't happening. The hole through the back is only 3/8 diameter. I used it for electric only by cutting the plug off a household extension cord, feeding the cut end through the back wall from the inside, and then putting a replacement plug on it. That gives me 3 outlets for lights, goldenrod, and spare. The problem with the temp/humidity probe I bought is that everything is hard wired. The cord is only about 3/32" diameter, but the probe is a good half inch. And I didn't want to cut and splice the wiring because I think it would throw off the temperature reading (RTD probe). Originally Posted By R2point0: Originally Posted By AlabamaFan64: I just received a Z3 6' and have a question about assembly. I know not to attempt putting the door on by myself, but I'm thinking I can get the rest of it put together until my helper is freed up. I know the assembly instructions are saying put the sides on, then put the back wall in. Since the sides can be pulled back a few inches for clearance, do you think it would be a problem to put the back panel on the floor base first, then the two sides? Also, the wire to your temperature and humidity gauge, did you run it in the same one as the power outlet cord? How much did you have open it up? As for the humidity probe I installed it after the safe was set and loaded. It's only about 1" off the wall so going through the back panel wasn't happening. The hole through the back is only 3/8 diameter. I used it for electric only by cutting the plug off a household extension cord, feeding the cut end through the back wall from the inside, and then putting a replacement plug on it. That gives me 3 outlets for lights, goldenrod, and spare. The problem with the temp/humidity probe I bought is that everything is hard wired. The cord is only about 3/32" diameter, but the probe is a good half inch. And I didn't want to cut and splice the wiring because I think it would throw off the temperature reading (RTD probe). The back panel is definitely flimsy, but my idea was having it lean against the wall while putting the sides into place. I’ve got a two plug outlet with the cord split so the outlet side can be run through the hole in the back and reattached to the interior plug inside the safe. My plan was running the plug side through the hole, taping the excess on the exterior side of the panel with enough slack (2”) to reach the electrical outlet when the safe is fully assembled. The excess on the interior of the safe, I’m planning on coiling up and securing so I can move that panel with the wire already in place since I’ve got less than an inch between the assembled back panel and the wall. |
Sancte Michael Archangele, defende nos in proelio,
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
|
Originally Posted By AlabamaFan64: The back panel is definitely flimsy, but my idea was having it lean against the wall while putting the sides into place. I've got a two plug outlet with the cord split so the outlet side can be run through the hole in the back and reattached to the interior plug inside the safe. My plan was running the plug side through the hole, taping the excess on the exterior side of the panel with enough slack (2") to reach the electrical outlet when the safe is fully assembled. The excess on the interior of the safe, I'm planning on coiling up and securing so I can move that panel with the wire already in place since I've got less than an inch between the assembled back panel and the wall. Either way I strongly recommend against hard wiring your safe electrics into your house wiring. If something goes south and your safe body goes hot it's a lot easier to pull a plug out of a wall than find the proper breaker. You would also definitely need to open up the access hole. The proper way to do it is punch a hole big enough for a 1/2" EMT bulkhead fitting, which has a strain relief built in. If you are concern is a wall outlet behind the safe, use some surface mount wire mold to move it out from behind the safe. |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
|
Originally Posted By R2point0: I'm a little confused. "Outlet" is what's in a box mounted in a wall or on a surface. "Cord" is a wire assembly used to connect equipment to building mains. Are you referring to Romex/NM cable? Or a handy-box with a duplex outlet attached to a cord with a plug? Or is there a wall receptacle that will be behind your safe that you want to relocate into your safe? Either way I strongly recommend against hard wiring your safe electrics into your house wiring. If something goes south and your safe body goes hot it's a lot easier to pull a plug out of a wall than find the proper breaker. You would also definitely need to open up the access hole. The proper way to do it is punch a hole big enough for a 1/2" EMT bulkhead fitting, which has a strain relief built in. If you are concern is a wall outlet behind the safe, use some surface mount wire mold to move it out from behind the safe. Originally Posted By R2point0: Originally Posted By AlabamaFan64: The back panel is definitely flimsy, but my idea was having it lean against the wall while putting the sides into place. I've got a two plug outlet with the cord split so the outlet side can be run through the hole in the back and reattached to the interior plug inside the safe. My plan was running the plug side through the hole, taping the excess on the exterior side of the panel with enough slack (2") to reach the electrical outlet when the safe is fully assembled. The excess on the interior of the safe, I'm planning on coiling up and securing so I can move that panel with the wire already in place since I've got less than an inch between the assembled back panel and the wall. Either way I strongly recommend against hard wiring your safe electrics into your house wiring. If something goes south and your safe body goes hot it's a lot easier to pull a plug out of a wall than find the proper breaker. You would also definitely need to open up the access hole. The proper way to do it is punch a hole big enough for a 1/2" EMT bulkhead fitting, which has a strain relief built in. If you are concern is a wall outlet behind the safe, use some surface mount wire mold to move it out from behind the safe. Sorry, this is what I was talking about. Attached File The receptacle is actually a couple of inches to the outside of the back of where the safe will be. I was just thinking it would be easier to run the cord into the back of the safe before placing it into the base since I’m doing it by myself. |
Sancte Michael Archangele, defende nos in proelio,
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
|
Originally Posted By AlabamaFan64: Sorry, this is what I was talking about. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/332226/IMG_0681_png-3817042.JPG The receptacle is actually a couple of inches to the outside of the back of where the safe will be. I was just thinking it would be easier to run the cord into the back of the safe before placing it into the base since I'm doing it by myself. That flat cord is going to be tight in the hole. I'd strongly suggest opening it up and putting in a grommet or strain relief. |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
|
Originally Posted By R2point0: Ah, got it. That's nice. That flat cord is going to be tight in the hole. I'd strongly suggest opening it up and putting in a grommet or strain relief. Originally Posted By R2point0: Originally Posted By AlabamaFan64: Sorry, this is what I was talking about. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/332226/IMG_0681_png-3817042.JPG The receptacle is actually a couple of inches to the outside of the back of where the safe will be. I was just thinking it would be easier to run the cord into the back of the safe before placing it into the base since I'm doing it by myself. That flat cord is going to be tight in the hole. I'd strongly suggest opening it up and putting in a grommet or strain relief. I tried it with the back panel leaning against the wall and it’s not terribly tight, but a grommet is a good idea. |
Sancte Michael Archangele, defende nos in proelio,
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
|
I also just found a digital thermometer/hygrometer that has a detachable probe and the wire is thin enough to fit through the existing hole. 12’ cord is also a plus. Failed To Load Product Data |
Sancte Michael Archangele, defende nos in proelio,
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
contra nequitiam et insidias diaboli esto praesidium.
Vivat Iesus.
|
Originally Posted By AlabamaFan64: I also just found a digital thermometer/hygrometer that has a detachable probe and the wire is thin enough to fit through the existing hole. 12' cord is also a plus. www.amazon.com/dp/B09V1P9921 |
"As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly." A. Carlson
Want to get a modular safe - SnapSafe or Zanotti? (Page 2 of 2)
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