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Posted: 11/4/2024 3:41:33 PM EDT
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A member here asked me in another thread if I had any tips for laying stencils. I just happened to think of that while I’m working on a Woodland variation today. I’ll be taking photos as I go and updating in between my flash cures. A lot of people lay stencils and work from one end to the other. I’ve always found it easier to start either in the middle, or from the highest point and work my way up and down. In this case, the highest point on this receiver set is right in the middle. Once you find your position, secure it in the middle or at the highest point. Attached File I then use a tool of some sort to continue pressing it down. In this case, I use a wooden coffee stir stick. It’s soft and has rounded edges. I use this to work the stencil and press it down into the creases. The stencil will of course stick at the end so you’ll have to lift it to relieve tension so you can get it to hold into the creases. The stencils do have stretch, but if they’re stretched too much, they will release overtime, and definitely release in the oven if you’re doing an oven cure finish. Attached File The most important area of the stencils to lay are the edges. You do not have to contour it to every edge in the center. In fact, if there are a lot of contours, you may have to move material and bunch it up in the center. Attached File |
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You may find you run into a space where you just cannot contour everything and you left with a gap. In that case, I use a scalpel or X-Acto knife to cut a slit into the stencil so I can lay it nice and tight. I then take a scrap piece of stencil, line it up, and fill in the gap. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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When I’m doing receiver sets, I use silicone plugs to hold the upper and lower together. You can also use a spare set of takedown pins. This is how I lay a stencil over an area. I’m using a plug. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Laying stencils over the hand guard retaining section can be a little tricky as that’s almost always a very steep contour. Attached File As I said, the edges are the most important. You can always punch material up in the middle. Often times this will create a sharp point so you can move that point to a location it doesn’t matter. In this case, I placed it inside an mlok slot. Attached File If moving it is not a it is not an option, you can also cover that point by using a scrap piece of stencil to hide it. Attached File |
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I know someone specifically asked about picatinny rails. Everything above can be used to get those covered as well, but it is a time sink I only do as a request. On multicolor patterns they almost always lift during the multiple flash cure phases. The only way I’ve found to ensure consist clean lines it to use sculpting clay to mold with the stencils. Usually, I just cut right at the edge of the rail: Attached File Attached File |
| Awesome thread! I just ordered some Rapco paints to attempt M81. Debating between buying stencils or trying to make my own. Do you do anything to cover trigger pin holes? It has been over a decade, but I once painted a receiver and ended up having to lightly sand trigger pin holes to get the trigger pins in. |
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It depends. I test the fit prior. Cerakote goes on pretty thin so in most cases I can let it fly for single color, but there have been some that I plugged since they were tight from the start. If I'm doing multi color I always plug after the first color is applied. For spray paint, I'd plug. It's much thicker than Cerakote. |
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Originally Posted By Thor: It depends. I test the fit prior. Cerakote goes on pretty thin so in most cases I can let it fly for single color, but there have been some that I plugged since they were tight from the start. If I'm doing multi color I always plug after the first color is applied. For spray paint, I'd plug. It's much thicker than Cerakote. |
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Do you have a link to the plugs you use for the take down pin and pivot pin? Are you using plugs/caps for the mag well, receiver extension/barrel nut threads? How about the ejection port,, mag release, bolt catch, trigger/hammer pin holes, detent channels and detent vent? |
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Originally Posted By Wangstang: Do you have a link to the plugs you use for the take down pin and pivot pin? Are you using plugs/caps for the mag well, receiver extension/barrel nut threads? How about the ejection port,, mag release, bolt catch, trigger/hammer pin holes, detent channels and detent vent? This are the plugs I use. They cover most cases: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFZLYYC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_Y18WC9B16YF3639PAE3G&skipTwisterOG=1&newOGT=1 The only things I ever plug are take down pin holes, trigger/hammer pin holes, and safety holes. Most of the other holes either have plenty of tolerance, or you need to intentionally try to spray into them I never mask off any threads. On thermal fit uppers I will mask off the inside front portion for the barrel extension. |
| 1/4" wood dowel works for the takedown and pivot pin holes. My masking tape stencils were an epic failure so I'm waiting on some Etsy stencils to arrive to finish my M81 attempt. I did get the rail and recovered painted black before figuring that out... |
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