Originally Posted By GriswoldGuns:
The removal of the tax is likely to be what pushes me over the edge into NFA stuff but not sure where to start.

First question that I am sure has been answered but can find a definitive answer through googling: if I make a form 1 suppressor from start to finish, doing everything myself except the engraving, can I legally repair the non serialized parts? If I get a baffle strike, can I destroy the damaged baffle and replace it with an identical replacement? Same with endcap? I know I cannot redesign it to improve performance.
What do you mean by "non-serialized"? Parts that aren't considered silencer parts or silencer parts that don't require to have a serial #, by ATF/NFA standards?
For actual silencer parts, you can repair w/o replacing parts. An example would be to enlarge the baffle or end cap bore, after a strike. If you need to replace something a new stamp needs to be filed, for said parts, and they must be marked w/ the new serial #
You actually can make a set of new and improved baffles, but a new stamp must be filed for said parts and they need to be serialized. Something to consider with a $0 stamp tax.
Next question: where do you find tubing? I see threaded tubes listed in the parts thread, but I want to make this from start to finish, and I can’t seem to find suppliers that sell seamless tubing without buying $300 worth of it.
ebay is a good source for short tubing pieces. McMaster Carr, TW Metals, Wicks Aircraft... For Ti stuff I use TitaniumJoe. I have no qualms using seam welded tubing for subsonic stuff.
Is 7075 going to be durable enough for 9mm and .22LR? Or does it need to be SS or Ti?
If you can't find 7075 tubing, 6061 will do. 7075 bar stock for baffles will be fine for that stuff. A lot of people don't like Al because you can't use "the dip" to remove lead. I've made plenty from Al and never regretted it. I'm also not the type to completely spot-free clean a silencer after round of shooting.
I want to get ahead of this and be ready before everybody wants to do a Form 1.

Originally Posted By GriswoldGuns:
Thank you for the reply.

What I meant by replacing baffles is if I have a baffle that is X long with a Y degree cone and a Z minimum sized bore, and I drop, crack, baffle strike, etc. can I manufacture a new one to the same exact dimensions and specs AFTER completely destroying the the damaged part? I have read conflicting views on this as I would be manufacturing not assembling and I would have no “spare” or “extra parts” at anytime.
You absolutely need another stamp and a serial # on the new baffle corelating to the new stamp. A Mfr/SOT can swap a new baffle in as a replacement w/o a new stamp. You're a maker, not a Mfr/SOT.

Related to that as forms will now be “free”: if I submit 3 form ones for suppressors with identical components and I damage a baffle in suppressor #1, could I swap it with an undamaged baffle in suppressor #2 or #3?
Correct. What you can also do is (you want to make a 6" silencer):
File for and make a 8 or 9in design
Make a 6" tube threaded female on both ends
Make a 2-3in extension tube threaded male-female
Fill the whole design with baffles, making sure it all fits together in the 8-9in configuration.
Assemble it in the 6in configuration and you now have 2-3in worth of "spare/replacement" baffles, but still remain legal because it's actually a modular (able to go from a 6 to 8-9in) design.

Originally Posted By GriswoldGuns:
Thanks again for your super helpful reply.
The legality of the modular seems a little iffy to me based on the statement that I read that the atf allowed +/-1” from design length.
It's like registering an SBR for 14.5" and also throwing an 11" upper on it. So long as the silencer meets the specifications on the form (the longest design length you list) you're gtg.
And you can always make a silencer shorter.
I do not believe there is any law/rule that says I cannot make a 7” suppressor and also register a 16” suppressor that has identical baffles.
Correct.

Originally Posted By GriswoldGuns:
For a “modular” suppressor, would both tubes be engraved?
No. I just do the largest. You could do just the mount and be done. ATF's last word was they prefer tube, but, in the case of modulars, "the terms shall mean the principal housing attached to the weapon that expels a projectile".

Say I had a 5” section and a 3” section, could I use it in 3” 5” and 8” configuration or would only one section be allowed to be serialized allowing only 5” and 8” configurations?
Any, as they're all registered silencer parts.
In that note, if I register 3 separate suppressors with a design that allowed the removal of end cap and base and mounting together could the suppressors be mounted together to make a configurable supressor? Say a 3”, 4”, and  5” to make 3”, 4”, 5”, 7”, 8”, 9”, and 12”? Or would the “extra” end caps be a problem?
No. It'd be creating a silencer longer than registered which would be the problem. And, in this scenario, you wouldn't have extra end caps because they could be used in a legally registered configuration.
I can’t thank you enough for all of the info you have provided.
Happy to oblige.

Originally Posted By neuromancer1970:
Now there is no such thing as totally seamless unless you bore out a solid piece of round stock all tubing is welded some just looks better like DOM (drawn over mandrel) its still welded.
I'm not sure where you heard this, but it's absolutely false. I buy it all the time. DOM only means it's finished w/ a mandrel to improve surface finish, circular form, and mechanical properties.
With centerfire you should use stainless baffles because they will withstand more abuse. You can get away with Al for rimfire but i would still make the tube from stainless just because its tougher. To cut down on weight you can turn the outside of the can pretty thin for rimfire .045" I thread my endcaps 28 TPI which is a pretty shallow thread.
While this can be true, fire schedule will play an important roll. I've seen 50cal designs made form all Al. And "stainless just because its tougher" is a very relaxed statement. There are many, many, types of SS. In fact, 7075 Al has a yield strength over double that of 316. I've also seen 556 cans with a wall thickness as thin as .020 (for testing purposes).
I would never build an all aluminum can because its so soft.
I'm not sure where you got this from, but it's also a very general and misleading statement. Plenty of commercial Mfr's have and still do make full Al suppressors. Even FA rated ones.
Pro tip clean rimfire cans after every shooting session
While this may be your regiment and recommendation, it's not necessarily needed. I have a sealed can, which has seen over 2 decades of rimfire use, and I've done nothing more than bang the crud out every once in a while. Fact, dirty suppressors can perform more efficiently than squeaky clean ones. Keep everything properly lubed and coated, and you go go quite a while w/o having to perform maintenance.