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Death to quislings.
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: ....It looks excellent in my opinion. The TRUOIL looks a little glossy and need to tone it down with steel wool. View Quote Looking good. I agree with you about the glossy look. I switched from truoil to Boiled Linseed Oil and prefer the results. I have thought about cutting a barrel down, please update us on your progress in that area. |
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Originally Posted By J2X: Looking good. I agree with you about the glossy look. I switched from truoil to Boiled Linseed Oil and prefer the results. I have thought about cutting a barrel down, please update us on your progress in that area. View Quote Will do. I already have an M1A1 replica stock ready to go ![]() I am concerned cutting it down might make it less reliable without opening up the gas port which probably isn't too difficult but requires going slowly up in drill sizes. Some others say it doesn't really need to be opened up. I have the barrel tools gauges and other tools to work on it and remove the barrel if I go that route, bring it to a lathe and have it turned down to relocate front sight and thread for 12x28. I will keep everyone posted. This thread has been expensive but very fun - the gun works great - exceeded my expectations and all my Military M2 friends seem impressed. The early Universals are really decent. |
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FWIW:
When you thread your cut-down barrel, make sure you thread "on centers". When I had a flash hider installed on my chopped M2, the gunsmith noted that the bore was nowhere near centered in the barrel at the new (shorter) muzzle as the drill had wandered a bit while making the barrel. It was wartime and nobody cared as long as the rifle would shoot "minute of Nazi". Watch out for the barrel band as you handle a hot gun. It gets just as hot as the barrel does after a few magazines, which I found out as I was putting my M2 into a vertical rifle rack after shooting it. I kept clear of the barrel, but the web of my hand contacted the barrel band- ouch! The old GI "recoil check" or muzzle brake does really work to keep the front end down in full auto. I have a few left-over parts from my M2 days (a couple of hammers and a sear) that I want to be rid of. If you PM me with an address, I'll send them to you. |
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Originally Posted By jbntex: I have an M2 carbine machinegun. My personal M2 is a WW2 USGI (Quality Hardware) M1 registered receiver. While I am RKI I wouldn't profess to be an M1/M2 expert by any means. In my mind there are essentially "5" types of M2s out there including the registered part option. - Factory WW2/USGI manufactured and marked "M2" guns from Winchester and Inland. - Factory WW2/USGI M1 guns that were reported to be factory made Inland and Winchester as M2s but just not marked as such. - Factory WW2/USGI M1s that were converted to M2s via drop in parts after the fact. - Commercial made M1s converted to M2s - Registered M2 conversion part(s). The most common registered part seems to be the M2 disconnector lever. Although I have seen registered M2 hammers and trigger frame bodies as well. Can't say I have ever seen a sear, selector, or any spring as the registered part over the years. For me the sweet spot in price was a WW2 USGI receiver that had been converted and registered as an M2. I didn't want to pay the "factory" M2 marked Carbine up-charge, the commercial guns don't have the best reputation, and the registered part option which was most commonly the disconnector seemed fragile to me and were almost as expensive as the factory M2 guns. Ultimately I figured how often am I really going to move a registered disco from one gun to another....probably never.... so why pay more for what appears to be a more fragile part that I am never going to move to another gun. However for you it sounds like you want to put a registered part in a new Fulton Armory production gun so maybe that makes more sense for you vs. what I wanted. The registered M2 trigger frames are considered the most "desirable" registered part due to durability but there is some argument if a M2 trigger frame should really be a registered machinegun conversion part. Personally I think its fine as while its legal to have an M2 trigger frame on an M1 its still an M2 specific part even if its not considered one of the "7" M2 restricted parts. As mentioned above mags are one of the things that need to be taken seriously. I originally bought aftermarket mags (Korean I believe) that were reported to be good to go but in reality were marginal. I ultimately sucked it up and bought a bunch of USGI WW2 20rd mags and a handful of the USGI 30rd SEY "hardback" mags (which are like ~$100+ each) and my gun has run like a champ ever since. My advice is to just be patient while your F4 is in transfer and cherry pick the best USGI mags from gunbroker, etc. as you can find them. (You can always take solace in the fact it could always be worse and you bought a Reising with $300 factory magazines) Also find a type of ammo you gun likes and when it available for a reasonable price buy a shit-ton of it. There was a period of time recently where there was close to zero 30 Carbine for sale at almost any price short of gunbroker gougers at $2+ per round. Even today 30 carbine isn't cheap as it starts at around 80cpr with shipping/tax to your door and quickly goes up from there. Buy a couple boxes of few different types of ammo, find the ones your gun likes best, and then buy however many cases you think you will need for years and just cache it away. If you do end up going the USGI/WW2 M1 converted route keep in mind there are two types of "M1" receivers. The ones with a recoil spring tube and others with the recoil spring tube as part of the receiver. Theoretically the spring tube receivers are not as strong and were never meant to be full auto M2s, but I have never heard of a spring tube receiver failing but I guess its possible. As an FYI, my personal Quality Hardware M2 is a spring tube gun and I have never seen any issues. My personal take is they are not the best shooters in the world, especially for the somewhat anemic "rifle" round they shoot but you have that experience with your buddies postie so you know what you are in store for. Ironically I probably shoot mine more in semi-auto than full auto. The USGI guns are a cool piece of history and I shoot mine maybe once a year-ish (a couple hundred rounds) for something different or bring it out for somebody who has to shoot an M2 carbine. Good lock with whatever you decide. View Quote I have a semi auto Inland with a failed receiver spring tube. |
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Originally Posted By Green_Label: I have a semi auto Inland with a failed receiver spring tube. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Green_Label: Originally Posted By jbntex: I have an M2 carbine machinegun. My personal M2 is a WW2 USGI (Quality Hardware) M1 registered receiver. While I am RKI I wouldn't profess to be an M1/M2 expert by any means. In my mind there are essentially "5" types of M2s out there including the registered part option. - Factory WW2/USGI manufactured and marked "M2" guns from Winchester and Inland. - Factory WW2/USGI M1 guns that were reported to be factory made Inland and Winchester as M2s but just not marked as such. - Factory WW2/USGI M1s that were converted to M2s via drop in parts after the fact. - Commercial made M1s converted to M2s - Registered M2 conversion part(s). The most common registered part seems to be the M2 disconnector lever. Although I have seen registered M2 hammers and trigger frame bodies as well. Can't say I have ever seen a sear, selector, or any spring as the registered part over the years. For me the sweet spot in price was a WW2 USGI receiver that had been converted and registered as an M2. I didn't want to pay the "factory" M2 marked Carbine up-charge, the commercial guns don't have the best reputation, and the registered part option which was most commonly the disconnector seemed fragile to me and were almost as expensive as the factory M2 guns. Ultimately I figured how often am I really going to move a registered disco from one gun to another....probably never.... so why pay more for what appears to be a more fragile part that I am never going to move to another gun. However for you it sounds like you want to put a registered part in a new Fulton Armory production gun so maybe that makes more sense for you vs. what I wanted. The registered M2 trigger frames are considered the most "desirable" registered part due to durability but there is some argument if a M2 trigger frame should really be a registered machinegun conversion part. Personally I think its fine as while its legal to have an M2 trigger frame on an M1 its still an M2 specific part even if its not considered one of the "7" M2 restricted parts. As mentioned above mags are one of the things that need to be taken seriously. I originally bought aftermarket mags (Korean I believe) that were reported to be good to go but in reality were marginal. I ultimately sucked it up and bought a bunch of USGI WW2 20rd mags and a handful of the USGI 30rd SEY "hardback" mags (which are like ~$100+ each) and my gun has run like a champ ever since. My advice is to just be patient while your F4 is in transfer and cherry pick the best USGI mags from gunbroker, etc. as you can find them. (You can always take solace in the fact it could always be worse and you bought a Reising with $300 factory magazines) Also find a type of ammo you gun likes and when it available for a reasonable price buy a shit-ton of it. There was a period of time recently where there was close to zero 30 Carbine for sale at almost any price short of gunbroker gougers at $2+ per round. Even today 30 carbine isn't cheap as it starts at around 80cpr with shipping/tax to your door and quickly goes up from there. Buy a couple boxes of few different types of ammo, find the ones your gun likes best, and then buy however many cases you think you will need for years and just cache it away. If you do end up going the USGI/WW2 M1 converted route keep in mind there are two types of "M1" receivers. The ones with a recoil spring tube and others with the recoil spring tube as part of the receiver. Theoretically the spring tube receivers are not as strong and were never meant to be full auto M2s, but I have never heard of a spring tube receiver failing but I guess its possible. As an FYI, my personal Quality Hardware M2 is a spring tube gun and I have never seen any issues. My personal take is they are not the best shooters in the world, especially for the somewhat anemic "rifle" round they shoot but you have that experience with your buddies postie so you know what you are in store for. Ironically I probably shoot mine more in semi-auto than full auto. The USGI guns are a cool piece of history and I shoot mine maybe once a year-ish (a couple hundred rounds) for something different or bring it out for somebody who has to shoot an M2 carbine. Good lock with whatever you decide. I have a semi auto Inland with a failed receiver spring tube. Buy replacement receiver, move all the parts over? |
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Death to quislings.
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Originally Posted By Silverbear_51: FWIW: When you thread your cut-down barrel, make sure you thread "on centers". When I had a flash hider installed on my chopped M2, the gunsmith noted that the bore was nowhere near centered in the barrel at the new (shorter) muzzle as the drill had wandered a bit while making the barrel. It was wartime and nobody cared as long as the rifle would shoot "minute of Nazi". Watch out for the barrel band as you handle a hot gun. It gets just as hot as the barrel does after a few magazines, which I found out as I was putting my M2 into a vertical rifle rack after shooting it. I kept clear of the barrel, but the web of my hand contacted the barrel band- ouch! The old GI "recoil check" or muzzle brake does really work to keep the front end down in full auto. I have a few left-over parts from my M2 days (a couple of hammers and a sear) that I want to be rid of. If you PM me with an address, I'll send them to you. View Quote Good to know about the bore. I have a G1 FAL where it shoots great but bore is not centered to OD of barrel - slightly crooked bore so it happens. Oddly the G1 is still "precise" in that they all group well, but not a gun to supress - - Those have a QD lug and not threaded, maybe they didn't care? I just the flash hider cone from the new Inland folks that make the "Advisor" pistol. I already have the cone. ![]() I'm not sure if the shop will let me remove the barrel on my own at their place or not and may have to put it on the back burner til the Form-4 is approved. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: Good to know about the bore. I have a G1 FAL where it shoots great but bore is not centered to OD of barrel - slightly crooked bore so it happens. Oddly the G1 is still "precise" in that they all group well, but not a gun to supress - - Those have a QD lug and not threaded, maybe they didn't care? I just the flash hider cone from the new Inland folks that make the "Advisor" pistol. I already have the cone. ![]() I'm not sure if the shop will let me remove the barrel on my own at their place or not and may have to put it on the back burner til the Form-4 is approved. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By cherenkov: Originally Posted By Silverbear_51: FWIW: When you thread your cut-down barrel, make sure you thread "on centers". When I had a flash hider installed on my chopped M2, the gunsmith noted that the bore was nowhere near centered in the barrel at the new (shorter) muzzle as the drill had wandered a bit while making the barrel. It was wartime and nobody cared as long as the rifle would shoot "minute of Nazi". Watch out for the barrel band as you handle a hot gun. It gets just as hot as the barrel does after a few magazines, which I found out as I was putting my M2 into a vertical rifle rack after shooting it. I kept clear of the barrel, but the web of my hand contacted the barrel band- ouch! The old GI "recoil check" or muzzle brake does really work to keep the front end down in full auto. I have a few left-over parts from my M2 days (a couple of hammers and a sear) that I want to be rid of. If you PM me with an address, I'll send them to you. Good to know about the bore. I have a G1 FAL where it shoots great but bore is not centered to OD of barrel - slightly crooked bore so it happens. Oddly the G1 is still "precise" in that they all group well, but not a gun to supress - - Those have a QD lug and not threaded, maybe they didn't care? I just the flash hider cone from the new Inland folks that make the "Advisor" pistol. I already have the cone. ![]() I'm not sure if the shop will let me remove the barrel on my own at their place or not and may have to put it on the back burner til the Form-4 is approved. Order a Criterion bbl, chop it? |
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Death to quislings.
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Order a Criterion bbl, chop it? View Quote Since the existing barrel has mileage on it - I'd figure to cut it, (it isn't special being commercial) buy a nice new criterion barrel and keep stock length it for installing later if wanted and then have lots of miles ahead of it. I do see that Fulton has a short criterion barrel but it has some 9/16-24 thread. which is like the old Ruger mini-14 thread pitch - I'd rather have 1/2x28. I could get one of those new short barrels, and keep the original barrel at 18" Might see what my friends might have in the parts pile too. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: Since the existing barrel has mileage on it - I'd figure to cut it, (it isn't special being commercial) buy a nice new criterion barrel and keep stock length it for installing later if wanted and then have lots of miles ahead of it. I do see that Fulton has a short criterion barrel but it has some 9/16-24 thread. which is like the old Ruger mini-14 thread pitch - I'd rather have 1/2x28. I could get one of those new short barrels, and keep the original barrel at 18" Might see what my friends might have in the parts pile too. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By cherenkov: Originally Posted By backbencher: Order a Criterion bbl, chop it? Since the existing barrel has mileage on it - I'd figure to cut it, (it isn't special being commercial) buy a nice new criterion barrel and keep stock length it for installing later if wanted and then have lots of miles ahead of it. I do see that Fulton has a short criterion barrel but it has some 9/16-24 thread. which is like the old Ruger mini-14 thread pitch - I'd rather have 1/2x28. I could get one of those new short barrels, and keep the original barrel at 18" Might see what my friends might have in the parts pile too. 1/2"x28 tpi is the standard for suppressors in .22 rimfire, .22 centerfire, & 9mm, but not nearly as common for .308 cans or muzzle devices. |
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Death to quislings.
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I made another visit to the range to visit the M2.
This time the gun was about as before. In ran flawless with 1970s USGI ammo. My 1950s USGI ammo was not as good - had about 1-2 stoppages per 30 rd mag. It would seem to create a stovepipe where an empty case would close upon the bolt so a new round would be feeding and not be able to fully close because the empty would be stuck. I wonder if the 50s ammo might be slightly less powerful and not be kicking the cases out as far and falling back in or perhaps that weaker power is expressing out the symptoms a weakened extractor/spring. I might change the extractor/ejector & springs. ![]() Universal M2 Carbine with M1A1 folding stock https://www.youtube.com/shorts/wWKa17yUtHE?feature=share https://www.youtube.behttps://wWKa17yUtHE |
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Interesting thread, I'm a big fan of M1 Carbines, thought about buying an M2 or kit but end of day don't really shoot my macs enough as it is. And I don't like dealing with the buying/selling process, maybe if I was in a group of people I could trust for private form 4 sales.
Got some USGI 30 round mags I'll make a fair price on if anyone is interested, PM me. |
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Originally Posted By Quake_Guy: Interesting thread, I'm a big fan of M1 Carbines, thought about buying an M2 or kit but end of day don't really shoot my macs enough as it is. And I don't like dealing with the buying/selling process, maybe if I was in a group of people I could trust for private form 4 sales. Got some USGI 30 round mags I'll make a fair price on if anyone is interested, PM me. View Quote I have considered getting a C&R FFL as that can help eliminate some of the transfer hassle. A C&R machinegun (e.g. 50+ years old) could in theory be transferred directly to you from out of state versus through another dealer. This is a little slow but cuts out some of the strange transfer redundancy in transferring an MG from out of state. It is indeed intimidating doing non-dealer sales with people you really don't know and have to wait so long for approval - heard some bad stories of transfers that went bad, people get money, go quiet or disappear - but many that are fine. |
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My M2 kit arrived at my dealer yesterday. At my request he installed it in a carbine he has and it function checked correctly. I'm going there tomorrow to pick up another gun he has for me and we are going to shoot it then and make sure everything works properly, then submit the form 4. Unfortunately, the M1 carbine I picked up recently on GB hasn't arrived yet so we won't be able to try it in the gun it will eventually reside in yet.
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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Originally Posted By Landric: My M2 kit arrived at my dealer yesterday. At my request he installed it in a carbine he has and it function checked correctly. I'm going there tomorrow to pick up another gun he has for me and we are going to shoot it then and make sure everything works properly, then submit the form 4. Unfortunately, the M1 carbine I picked up recently on GB hasn't arrived yet so we won't be able to try it in the gun it will eventually reside in yet. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/14564/M2_Kit_Edit_jpg-2963676.JPG View Quote Excellent - Give us a report of how its running. I'm trying to put my rebuilt bolt back together - I broke a extractor plunger taking it apart to clean real good and replace springs - DOH! Its the one tiny part I didn't have. PS I did finish rebuilding the damaged/broken Plainfield Para stock for the carbine that I bought ![]() |
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Form 4 is on the way.
We opted to do a paper form for two reasons. First, I just had a paper form 4 approval in 186 days with the same dealer. Second, he just had a eform 4 rejected after a 10 month wait for a trust name mismatch (that would have been an easy correction with a paper form). So, hopefully I won’t regret the paper form 4 decision. |
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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My efile Form-4 has just been updated to "In Process" - It took a week to nudge those electrons I guess.
Sometimes paper and pencil still get the job done. Almost every gun we buy that is transferable (pre-86) was designed produced and sold without email or PCs. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: I made another visit to the range to visit the M2. This time the gun was about as before. In ran flawless with 1970s USGI ammo. My 1950s USGI ammo was not as good - had about 1-2 stoppages per 30 rd mag. It would seem to create a stovepipe where an empty case would close upon the bolt so a new round would be feeding and not be able to fully close because the empty would be stuck. I wonder if the 50s ammo might be slightly less powerful and not be kicking the cases out as far and falling back in or perhaps that weaker power is expressing out the symptoms a weakened extractor/spring. I might change the extractor/ejector & springs. ![]() https://www.youtube.com/shorts/wWKa17yUtHE?feature=share https://www.youtube.behttps://wWKa17yUtHE View Quote UPDATE: Put all new (old stock USGI) parts on the bolt. Runs the 50s stuff and all other ammo perfectly - When I removed the old extractor, the extractor plunger was in two pieces - I am suprised it ran as well as it did - I am amazed how well this particular gun will run. I'm afraid of burning my wood hand guards even though I put some aluminum foil tape on the insides of them. Gets hot quickly ![]() |
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I finally made it to my dealer's place to try the M2 kit (it has been almost a month since the form 4 was submitted). The BRP-Suomi I bought just arrived there last week, so I got to try them both out. The M2 kit works perfectly and the BRP was huge fun. Definitely more interesting than the STEN Mk. II and the M10/45 I sold to help fund this.
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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Originally Posted By Landric: I finally made it to my dealer's place to try the M2 kit (it has been almost a month since the form 4 was submitted). The BRP-Suomi I bought just arrived there last week, so I got to try them both out. The M2 kit works perfectly and the BRP was huge fun. Definitely more interesting than the STEN Mk. II and the M10/45 I sold to help fund this. View Quote Out of curiosity, why'd you decide to get rid of the STEN and M10? Just looking for a change up/something new? |
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Originally Posted By peachy: Out of curiosity, why'd you decide to get rid of the STEN and M10? Just looking for a change up/something new? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By peachy: Originally Posted By Landric: I finally made it to my dealer's place to try the M2 kit (it has been almost a month since the form 4 was submitted). The BRP-Suomi I bought just arrived there last week, so I got to try them both out. The M2 kit works perfectly and the BRP was huge fun. Definitely more interesting than the STEN Mk. II and the M10/45 I sold to help fund this. Out of curiosity, why'd you decide to get rid of the STEN and M10? Just looking for a change up/something new? I sold the STEN first because I wanted something different than an open bolt SMG. I used that money to help fund the M2. There was no good way to mount optics on the STEN and the iron sights were terrible. Also, the mags are hard to load and not super reliable. The M2 is completely different but still a “classic” gun. I had both a M10/45 and M10/9. I sold the M10/45 because I got the parts for the BRP to make it a .45 and it uses the M3 mags I already had. I really like the Suomi, the BRP basically clones it, and it gives me something different than a MAC. I also have a M11A1 and I thought two MACs was enough. |
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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Originally Posted By Landric: I sold the STEN first because I wanted something different than an open bolt SMG. I used that money to help fund the M2. There was no good way to mount optics on the STEN and the iron sights were terrible. Also, the mags are hard to load and not super reliable. The M2 is completely different but still a “classic” gun. I had both a M10/45 and M10/9. I sold the M10/45 because I got the parts for the BRP to make it a .45 and it uses the M3 mags I already had. I really like the Suomi, the BRP basically clones it, and it gives me something different than a MAC. I also have a M11A1 and I thought two MACs was enough. View Quote Thanks! |
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The M2 is a good choice for a closed bolt non-SMG Machinegun within the lower end spectrum of MGs.
The cost of 30 carbine ammo is not as inexpensive as I recall. I've been buying a bit up to stock up on. With Millions of carbines out there - Here is hoping Palmetto/AAC might rise to the occasion of offering 30 carbine below 80 cents per round. I think part of the problem is many guns are in collectors hands that don't shoot them much. I am still happy with choosing the M2 over another SMG. I let quite a few different shooters at my range try the M2 out and everyone likes it - Even the M16 owner was impressed with how light and mild shooting it is. If this had a 22 conversion kit - it would be so great - but alas. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: The M2 is a good choice for a closed bolt non-SMG Machinegun within the lower end spectrum of MGs. The cost of 30 carbine ammo is not as inexpensive as I recall. I've been buying a bit up to stock up on. With Millions of carbines out there - Here is hoping Palmetto/AAC might rise to the occasion of offering 30 carbine below 80 cents per round. I think part of the problem is many guns are in collectors hands that don't shoot them much. I am still happy with choosing the M2 over another SMG. I let quite a few different shooters at my range try the M2 out and everyone likes it - Even the M16 owner was impressed with how light and mild shooting it is. If this had a 22 conversion kit - it would be so great - but alas. View Quote The M1/M2 Carbines are really their own class of gun, or at least the original. They are not powerful enough to be assault rifles, but they don't shoot pistol cartridges either. They are super light and handy, way more so than any SMGs of the day, and have a longer effective range. They really are the first purpose built PDW as opposed to a modification of an existing design (like a pistol with a stock and extended mag or a super short carbine version of a service rifle). That alone makes them interesting. Plus, they are really fun to shoot, parts are everywhere, and it is pretty easy to add optics (if a bit sacrilegious). It really is too bad that ammo is around the same price as .308 these days. |
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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Originally Posted By Landric: The M1/M2 Carbines are really their own class of gun, or at least the original. They are not powerful enough to be assault rifles, but they don't shoot pistol cartridges either. They are super light and handy, way more so than any SMGs of the day, and have a longer effective range. They really are the first purpose built PDW as opposed to a modification of an existing design (like a pistol with a stock and extended mag or a super short carbine version of a service rifle). That alone makes them interesting. Plus, they are really fun to shoot, parts are everywhere, and it is pretty easy to add optics (if a bit sacrilegious). It really is too bad that ammo is around the same price as .308 these days. View Quote AIM Surplus had PPU for $29.95 for SP and FMJ (box 50) last week - I stocked up |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: AIM Surplus had PPU for $29.95 for SP and FMJ (box 50) last week - I stocked up View Quote I suspect it could be reloaded pretty cheap. .30 carbine is a little fast for plated bullets or coated cast bullets on paper, but places sell both with good reviews, so there must be a way to make it work. |
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Originally Posted By peachy: I suspect it could be reloaded pretty cheap. .30 carbine is a little fast for plated bullets or coated cast bullets on paper, but places sell both with good reviews, so there must be a way to make it work. View Quote A freind of mine is starting to reload it - evidently you have to trim cases but not difficult, just time consuming. H'e retired - so he has the time - I have reloaded in the past but not an expert by any means - almost a little scared to run reloads through such an expensive gun and ruin it due to a mistake. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: A freind of mine is starting to reload it - evidently you have to trim cases but not difficult, just time consuming. H'e retired - so he has the time - I have reloaded in the past but not an expert by any means - almost a little scared to run reloads through such an expensive gun and ruin it due to a mistake. View Quote I've never reloaded .30 carbine, but my experience with straight-walled cartridges is generally that it shrinks rather than stretches over time. Shrinking straight-walled brass introduces its own annoyances with respect to case-mouth belling and crimp consistency, but it generally is not dangerous. I think .30 carbine uses powder similar in burn rate to W296/H110, which is virtually impossible to double-charge and fairly stable in terms of pressure spikes. |
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I’ve got all the stuff to reload .30 Carbine but I haven’t actually tried it yet. I’ve watched a couple of videos on it, and at least according to those, it does stretch and has to be trimmed periodically.
My biggest problem with reloading for it is having to chase the brass. Brass isn’t available cheap (or free as range pickups), so I actually have to worry about finding what I shoot. I might have to go back to the old days when I brought a big tarp to the range and set it beside me while I shot. Back then I was reloading 9mm and .45 ACP on a Rockchucker single stage and shooting about 400-500 rounds a week. I pulled that lever a lot. But, I was young and broke and I could reload for way less than buying factory ammunition at a gun store (before it could be ordered on the internet). |
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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Originally Posted By Landric: I’ve got all the stuff to reload .30 Carbine but I haven’t actually tried it yet. I’ve watched a couple of videos on it, and at least according to those, it does stretch and has to be trimmed periodically. My biggest problem with reloading for it is having to chase the brass. Brass isn’t available cheap (or free as range pickups), so I actually have to worry about finding what I shoot. I might have to go back to the old days when I brought a big tarp to the range and set it beside me while I shot. Back then I was reloading 9mm and .45 ACP on a Rockchucker single stage and shooting about 400-500 rounds a week. I pulled that lever a lot. But, I was young and broke and I could reload for way less than buying factory ammunition at a gun store (before it could be ordered on the internet). View Quote That’s a bummer regarding brass stretch and availability. 9mm and .45 make subguns so easy to feed. I’d love an M16, but just not sure I want to deal with the extra hassle of reloading bottleneck rounds in that volume. |
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For a long time Advanced Tactical was selling 200pcs Armcor virgin 30M1 cases for $29.95 and then it jumped up to $46.23.
They occasionally have good sales and clearance events - keep your eyes open there and everywhere. Every time I look at buying the dies, brass, bullets I just end up putting more money into factory ammo ![]() Wasn't there some crap ton of carbines and ammo in Korea along with a crap ton of M1 Garands but could not be imported? |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: For a long time Advanced Tactical was selling 200pcs Armcor virgin 30M1 cases for $29.95 and then it jumped up to $46.23. They occasionally have good sales and clearance events - keep your eyes open there and everywhere. Every time I look at buying the dies, brass, bullets I just end up putting more money into factory ammo ![]() Wasn't there some crap ton of carbines and ammo in Korea along with a crap ton of M1 Garands but View Quote Because Democrats. FIFY. ![]() |
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Death to quislings.
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Originally Posted By Landric: I’ve got all the stuff to reload .30 Carbine but I haven’t actually tried it yet. I’ve watched a couple of videos on it, and at least according to those, it does stretch and has to be trimmed periodically. My biggest problem with reloading for it is having to chase the brass. Brass isn’t available cheap (or free as range pickups), so I actually have to worry about finding what I shoot. I might have to go back to the old days when I brought a big tarp to the range and set it beside me while I shot. Back then I was reloading 9mm and .45 ACP on a Rockchucker single stage and shooting about 400-500 rounds a week. I pulled that lever a lot. But, I was young and broke and I could reload for way less than buying factory ammunition at a gun store (before it could be ordered on the internet). View Quote It does stretch some and probably needs to be trimmed every 2 or 3 firings. Once you figure out the ejection pattern of your carbine, the brass isn't particularly difficult to find after shooting. As long as I keep the grass mowed and trimmed around my bench, it's very rare for me to lose brass. Have you actually LOOKED for brass?? If you're diligent, there are buys to be had. 650 rounds of 30 caliber carbine brass Military 30 Carbine M1 Carbine once-fired brass S.S.Pin cleanded $17 PER 100 Were I looking for brass (Which I'm not as I have a lifetime supply) I would post WTB ads here, on the CMP Forum, on the Carbine Collectors Club Forum and watch Gunbroker vigilantly. |
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"People tend to have a proclivity towards an object rather than their own skill."
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I tried my M2 with the recently repaired Plainfield Para Stock.
It needed some fitting but not much. The PPU ammo I picked up at AIM Surplus recently ran good. [youtube]Lcjvfi3puGg[youtube] [youtube]shorts/Lcjvfi3puGg[/youtube] ![]() M2 with Para-Plainfield stock |
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Originally Posted By ggibbs: It does stretch some and probably needs to be trimmed every 2 or 3 firings. Once you figure out the ejection pattern of your carbine, the brass isn't particularly difficult to find after shooting. As long as I keep the grass mowed and trimmed around my bench, it's very rare for me to lose brass. Have you actually LOOKED for brass?? If you're diligent, there are buys to be had. 650 rounds of 30 caliber carbine brass Military 30 Carbine M1 Carbine once-fired brass S.S.Pin cleanded $17 PER 100 Were I looking for brass (Which I'm not as I have a lifetime supply) I would post WTB ads here, on the CMP Forum, on the Carbine Collectors Club Forum and watch Gunbroker vigilantly. View Quote I've looked, it is available for sure. However, it isn't cheap like pistol brass or as easily available as 5.56 or 7.62 NATO. Luckily for me (if not my wallet) I happened into what passes for a deal on .30 Carbine ammunition these days and I now have 3500 rounds of factory brass cased ammo. That is like 5 FULL MINUTES of shooting. ![]() Anyway, I should be able to salvage enough brass from shooting that ammo that I won't have to buy brass online for the foreseeable future. |
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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Originally Posted By peachy: I've never reloaded .30 carbine, but my experience with straight-walled cartridges is generally that it shrinks rather than stretches over time. Shrinking straight-walled brass introduces its own annoyances with respect to case-mouth belling and crimp consistency, but it generally is not dangerous. I think .30 carbine uses powder similar in burn rate to W296/H110, which is virtually impossible to double-charge and fairly stable in terms of pressure spikes. View Quote 30 carbine is not technically straight walled. |
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Great News my Form-4 for my M2 was approved.
I will be picking it up Tomorrow. |
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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Get an action wrench and headspace gauges. Very easy to swap bbls on the carbines.
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Death to quislings.
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Get an action wrench and headspace gauges. Very easy to swap bbls on the carbines. View Quote I agree! While it was in NFA Jail - I got all the carbine tools, headspace gauges, spare bolts, parts. It won't be as easy as an AR15, but with the various stocks and parts, I can change the configurations a little. |
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I went shooting the M2 today and after a few hundred rounds it stopped working - Bolt wouldn't close.
Took it apart and found the piston and piston nut had worked themselves out under recoil vibration. Being a commercial carbine I don't think it was staked and I did not stake it after initial cleaning and teardown. I The piston now fits with some friction best to replace both parts as both NOS GI parts are just $25. Reminder to re-stake yours if you clean that area! |
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My M2 form 4 finally got approved 6/24/2024 and arrived at the dealer yesterday. The BRP-Stemple Suomi got approved on 6/7/2024 and arrived at the dealer 6/14/2024. The guy doing my transfers is a friend who lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. We spent the weekend shooting a match the weekend of 6/7, so of course the BRP stamp arrived the following Friday.
“Luckily” for me I was too busy the last two weeks of June to head to his place to get the BRP (no time to shoot even if I had picked it up). Now I’m out of the country until next week. Hopefully the following weekend I will make it out to his place to get both. It has been a long wait, looking forward to sending some 30 Carbine down range on auto. |
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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Originally Posted By Landric: My M2 form 4 finally got approved 6/24/2024 and arrived at the dealer yesterday. The BRP-Stemple Suomi got approved on 6/7/2024 and arrived at the dealer 6/14/2024. The guy doing my transfers is a friend who lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. We spent the weekend shooting a match the weekend of 6/7, so of course the BRP stamp arrived the following Friday. “Luckily” for me I was too busy the last two weeks of June to head to his place to get the BRP (no time to shoot even if I had picked it up). Now I’m out of the country until next week. Hopefully the following weekend I will make it out to his place to get both. It has been a long wait, looking forward to sending some 30 Carbine down range on auto. View Quote Great! Post some pics if you can get a chance. |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: Great! Post some pics if you can get a chance. View Quote Will do, best I can do right now, the kit and the M1 it is going into (with sacrilegious Ultimak rail and Holosun 503): ![]() ![]() Here is the BRP Suomi, I shot it at the match on 6/8. It was a blast, anyone looking for a SMG that isn’t concerned with getting a proper historical gun should check out BRP: ![]() And here is the reason I can’t pick the guns up yet: ![]() The 60 degree Scottish coast trumps 100 degree North Carolina in July. |
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"The Engine could still smile...it seemed to scare them." -Felix
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Cool - With many BRP you can swap out to different configs can't you?
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